OPEL CALIBRA 1988 Service User Guide
Page 11 of 525
5Remove the three screws securing the
choke assembly to the carburettor body.
Allow the choke assembly to drop down, but
do not disconnect the choke linkage.
6Remove the star clip that secures the
diaphragm unit to the carburettor top cover,
and withdraw the diaphragm unit.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new star clip to secure the diaphragm unit to
the carburettor top cover. Before refitting the
air box to the top of the carburettor, check
and if necessary adjust the choke pull-down,
as follows.
Vacuum pull-down
Adjustment
8With the air cleaner or air box removed from
the top of the carburettor, as described in
Section 17, paragraph 2, continue as follows.
9Note the position of the bi-metal housing
alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if
necessary making additional marks for clarity,
then remove the three securing screws, and
lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing
to one side, taking care not to strain the
coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring.
10Position the fast idle speed adjustment
screw on the highest step of the fast idle cam,
and check that the choke valve is closed.
11Move the pull-down arm towards the
diaphragm unit by pushing on the adjustment
screw until resistance is felt. Hold the arm in
this position.
12Using a drill shank of appropriate
diameter, or a similar item, measure the
clearance between the lower side of the
choke plate and the wall of the primary barrel
(see illustrations). Check that the clearance
is as given for the “small” choke pull-down
gap in the Specifications.
13If adjustment is necessary, turn the
adjustment screw in the appropriate direction,
using an Allen key, until the clearance is
correct.14Now push the pull-down arm towards the
diaphragm unit as far as its stop, and hold the
arm in this position.
15As before measure the clearance between
the lower side of the choke plate and the wall
of the primary barrel. Check that the
clearance is as given for the “large” choke
pull-down gap in the Specifications.
16If adjustment is necessary, turn the
adjustment screw in the appropriate direction
until the clearance is correct.
17Connect the bi-metal spring to the choke
lever, position the bi-metal housing on the
choke housing and loosely fit the securing
screws. Align the marks on the bi-metal
housing and the choke housing as noted
during removal, then tighten the securing
screws.
18Refit the air box to the top of the
carburettor on completion.
Secondary pull-down solenoid
Removal
19This unit operates in conjunction with the
main diaphragm unit.
20To remove the solenoid unit, first continue
as described in Section 17, paragraphs 1 and
2.
21Disconnect the diaphragm unit vacuum
pipe.22Disconnect the wiring plug, then unscrew
the securing screw, and withdraw the
solenoid unit and its mounting bracket from
the carburettor. Note that the securing screw
also secures the wiring plug earth lead (see
illustration).
Refitting
23Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the wiring plug earth lead is in
place under the solenoid bracket securing
screw.
21Carburettor filter -removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1A small tubular filter gauze is fitted into the
carburettor top cover’s fuel inlet union to
remove any particles of dirt from the fuel.
2To ensure a clean fuel supply and to
prevent the risk of misfiring, poor starting or
other problems due to a restricted fuel supply,
this filter must be cleaned and/or renewed at
the interval specified in Chapter 1.
3To reach the filter, remove the air cleaner or
air box, as applicable, then disconnect and
plug the hose from the fuel pump or vapour
separator to the top cover union.
4Remove the filter by hooking it out with a
small screwdriver, or by snaring it with a long
thin screw (3 mm thread size, screwed
approximately 5 mm into the filter).
5If the filter is blocked or heavily fouled, or if
it is torn, distorted or damaged in any way, it
must be renewed. If it is fit for further use,
clean it using a jet of compressed air or by
brushing away particles of dirt with an old soft
toothbrush. Then flushing it in clean solvent,
taking care not to allow any overspray to get
into your eyes; if petrol is used, take care to
prevent the risk of fire.
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•11
20.12B Checking the vacuum pull-down gap using a twist drill
20.22 Secondary choke pull-down
solenoid securing screw and earth lead
20.12A Choke vacuum pull-down adjustment
1 Adjustment screw 2 Diaphragm unit A Twist drill
4A
Page 12 of 525
Refitting
6On refitting the filter, press it into the union
until it catches (see illustration). The
remainder of the reassembly procedure is the
reverse of removal.
22Throttle valve dashpot
(automatic models) -
adjustment
2
1Remove the air cleaner or air box, refer to
Section 3.
2Ensure that the lever (see illustration)is in
the idling position.
3Slacken the locknut and unscrew the
dashpot until a gap of 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
exists between the lever and the dashpot tip.
Then screw the dashpot downwards 2.5 full
turns and tighten the locknut.
4Refit all removed components.
23Throttle position sensor
(automatic transmission
models) - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery earth lead.
2Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor.
3Either unscrew the two securing screws
and withdraw the sensor from its bracket, or
unbolt the bracket.
Refitting
4Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points.
a)Install the sensor when the throttle valve
is fully closed and ensure that the
adapter, “1” (see illustration),seats
correctly on the throttle valve spindle.
b)Tighten the screws carefully.
24Idle speed increase valve -
testing
2
1Certain models are fitted with an idle speed
increase valve that is attached to the side of
the carburettor.
2To test the operation of this valve first
remove the air filter and vacuum hose.
3With the valve’s plug connected, have
someone turn the ignition on (but do not start
the engine). A mechanical shifting noise
should be heard. If not replace the unit.
4After refitting replace the vacuum hose and
air filter.
25Idle cut-off solenoid (1.8 litre
models) - description and
testing
2
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Description
1On 1.8 litre models, the carburettor is fitted
with an idle cut-off solenoid. This is an
electrically operated valve, which interrupts
the idle mixture circuit when the ignition isswitched off, thus preventing the engine from
running-on (see illustration).
2The idle cut-off solenoid is energised all the
time that the ignition is switched on. A
defective solenoid, or a break in its power
supply, will cause the engine to stall or idle
roughly, although it will run normally at speed.
Testing
3If the operation of the solenoid is suspect,
first check that battery voltage is present at
the solenoid terminal when the ignition is
switched on. Use a 12 volt test lamp or similar
test device.
4If no voltage is present, then the fault lies in
the wiring to the solenoid. If voltage is
present, the solenoid can be tested as
follows.
5With the solenoid unscrewed from the
carburettor, connect the body of the solenoid
to the negative terminal of a 12 volt battery.
When the battery positive terminal is
connected to the solenoid centre terminal,
there should be an audible click, and the
needle at the tip of the solenoid should
retract.
6A defective idle cut-off solenoid must be
renewed.
26Inlet manifold - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A
new manifold gasket must be used on refitting
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system, as described in
Chapter 3.
3Proceed as described in Section 13,
paragraphs 2 to 7 inclusive, ignoring the
reference to coolant spillage in paragraph 5.
4A•12Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models
21.6 Refitting the carburettor fuel filter
23.4 Throttle position sensor - models with automatic
transmission
1 Adapter 2 Sensor22.2 Adjusting the throttle valve dashpot - models with
automatic transmission
1 Lever2 Locknut3 Dashpot
Page 13 of 525
4Disconnect the coolant hose from the rear
of the manifold (see illustration).
5Where applicable, disconnect the camshaft
cover breather hose from the rear of the
manifold (see illustration).
6Unscrew the union and disconnect the
brake servo vacuum hose from the manifold.
7On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models, disconnect the
wiring from the temperature gauge sender.
8Unscrew and remove the top alternator
mounting nut and bolt.
9On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models, disconnect and
remove the stub hose that connects the
crankcase breather tube to the rear of the
camshaft housing.
10Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected.
11Unscrew the securing nuts, and withdraw
the manifold from the cylinder head (see
illustration). Note the position of the rear
engine lifting bracket, which is secured by one
of the manifold nuts, and recover the manifoldgasket.
12It is possible that some of the manifold
studs may be unscrewed from the cylinder
head when the manifold securing nuts are
unscrewed. In this event, the studs should be
screwed back into the cylinder head once the
manifold has been removed, using two
manifold nuts locked together.
13If desired, the carburettor can be removed
from the manifold, referring to Section 13, if
necessary.
Refitting
14Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
15If the carburettor has been removed from
the manifold, refit it, using a new gasket.
16If the alternator mounting bracket has
been unbolted from the manifold, refit it
before refitting the manifold, as access to the
securing bolt is extremely limited once the
manifold is in place.
17Refit the manifold using a new gasket,and ensure that the engine lifting bracket is in
place under the relevant manifold nut. Tighten
the nuts to the specified torque.
18Ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and
wires are correctly reconnected.
19Refill the cooling system, as described in
Chapter 3.
20Check the throttle cable free play and
adjust if necessary, as described in Section
11.
21If the carburettor has been disturbed,
check and if necessary adjust the idle speed
and mixture, as described in Section 14.
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•13
26.5 . . .and the camshaft cover breather
hose (arrowed) from the inlet manifold -
1.6 litre model
26.11 Withdrawing the inlet manifold -
1.6 litre model
26.4 Disconnecting the coolant hose . . .
4A
25.1 Carburettor idle cut-off solenoid
(arrowed) - 1.8 litre models
Page 14 of 525
4A•14Notes
Page 15 of 525
12
Wiper blades
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 ins. Champion X-4803
Fuses
Rating:
Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 A
Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 A
Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 A
Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 A
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Airbag unit to steering wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Airbag control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Brackets, passenger airbag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16
Passenger airbag to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Steering to column . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Chapter 12
Body electrical systems
Aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Aerial mast, electric - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Airbag - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
Airbag contact unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58
Airbag control unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
Airbag unit, drivers side - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56
Airbag unit, passengers side - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .59
Anti-theft alarm - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
Anti-theft alarm system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . .54
Bracket, passenger airbag unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .60
Brake lamp switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Central door locking components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .46
Check control system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . .21
Cigarette lighter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Courtesy lamp switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Direction indicator/lighting switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .5
Electric door mirror switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Electric window components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Electric window controls - programming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Electrical fault-finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Exterior lamp bulbs - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Facia panel switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Front indicator lamp unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Front foglamp - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Fuses and relays - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Handbrake “on” warning lamp switch - removal and refitting . . . . . .13
Headlamp aim adjustment motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .26
Headlamp dim-dip system - general, removal and refitting . . . . . . . .28
Headlamp unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Headlamp washer fluid non-return valve - removal and refitting . . . .43Headlamp wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Headlamps - alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Heated front seats - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Horn(s) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Ignition switch and lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .4
Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Instrument panel components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Interior lamp bulbs - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Interior lamps - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Luggage compartment lamp switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . .11
Number plate lamp - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Oil pressure warning lamp switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .14
Radio/cassette player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Rear lamp unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Reversing lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 7A
Side repeater lamp - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Speedometer cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
Steering wheel (with airbag) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57
Sunroof motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
Sunroof operating switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Trip computer components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Wash/wipe switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Washer fluid reservoir - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Washer nozzles - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Washer pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . .38
Wiper arms - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Wiper blades - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Wiring diagrams - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62
12•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
Page 16 of 525
1General information and
precautions
The electrical system is of 12-volt negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid type battery, which is charged by
the alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with engine.
Information on the battery, alternator and
starter motor can be found in Chapter 5.
It should be noted that, before working on
any component in the electrical system, the
battery negative terminal should first be
disconnected, to prevent the possibility of
electrical short-circuits and/or fires.
Whenever the occasion arises, carefully
check the routing of the wiring harness,
ensuring that it is correctly secured by the
clips or ties provided so that it cannot chafe
against other components. Carefully check
points such as the clutch cable bracket,
clutch housing and harness support bracket,
the inlet manifold, the horn mounting bracket,
the starter motor terminals, and the rear
bumper and number plate lamp.
If evidence is found of the harness having
chafed against other components, repair the
damage and ensure that the harness is
secured or protected so that the problem
cannot occur again.
2Electrical fault-finding -
general information
Note:Refer to the precautions given in “Safety
first!” (at the beginning of this manual) and to
Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.
The following tests relate to testing of the main
electrical circuits, and should not be used to
test delicate electronic circuits (such as anti-
lock braking systems), particularly where an
electronic control module is used.
A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers
related to that component, and the wiring and
connectors that link the component to boththe battery and the chassis. To help to
pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit,
wiring diagrams are included at the end of this
Chapter.
Before attempting to diagnose an electrical
fault, first study the appropriate wiring
diagram, to obtain a complete understanding
of the components included in the particular
circuit concerned. The possible sources of a
fault can be narrowed down by noting
whether other components related to the
circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time, the
problem is likely to be related to a shared fuse
or earth connection.
Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a faulty earth connection, a
blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty
relay (refer to Section 3 for details of testing
relays). Visually inspect the condition of all
fuses, wires and connections in a problem
circuit before testing the components. Use
the wiring diagrams to determine which
terminal connections will need to be checked,
to pinpoint the trouble-spot.
The basic tools required for electrical fault-
finding include the following:
a)a circuit tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt bulb
with a set of test leads can also be used
for certain tests).
b)a self-powered test light (sometimes
known as a continuity tester).
c)an ohmmeter (to measure resistance).
d)a battery.
e)a set of test leads.
f)a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit
breaker or fuse incorporated, which can
be used to bypass suspect wires or
electrical components.
Before attempting to locate a problem with
test instruments, use the wiring diagram to
determine where to make the connections.
To find the source of an intermittent wiring
fault (usually due to a poor or dirty
connection, or damaged wiring insulation), a
“wiggle” test can be performed on the wiring.
This involves wiggling the wiring by hand, to
see if the fault occurs as the wiring is moved.
It should be possible to narrow down the
source of the fault to a particular section of
wiring. This method of testing can be used in
conjunction with any of the tests described in
the following sub-Sections.
Apart from problems due to poor
connections, two basic types of fault can
occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit, or
short-circuit.
Open-circuit faults are caused by a break
somewhere in the circuit, which prevents
current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will
prevent a component from working, but will
not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.
Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short”
somewhere in the circuit, which allows the
current flowing in the circuit to “escape” along
an alternative route, usually to earth. Short-
circuit faults are normally caused by abreakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a
feed wire to touch either another wire, or an
earthed component such as the bodyshell. A
short-circuit fault will normally cause the
relevant circuit fuse to blow.
Finding an open-circuit
To check for an open-circuit, connect one
lead of a circuit tester or voltmeter to either
the negative battery terminal or a known good
earth.
Connect the other lead to a connector in
the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
the battery or fuse.
Switch on the circuit, remembering that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
If voltage is present (indicated either by the
tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as
applicable), this means that the section of the
circuit between the relevant connector and
the battery is problem-free.
Continue to check the remainder of the
circuit in the same fashion.
When a point is reached at which no
voltage is present, the problem must lie
between that point and the previous test point
with voltage. Most problems can be traced to
a broken, corroded or loose connection.
Finding a short-circuit
To check for a short-circuit, first disconnect
the load(s) from the circuit (loads are the
components that draw current from a circuit,
such as bulbs, motors, heating elements, etc.).
Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit,
and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to the
fuse connections.
Switch on the circuit, remembering that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
If voltage is present (indicated either by the
tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as
applicable), this means that there is a short-
circuit.
If no voltage is present, but the fuse still
blows with the load(s) connected, this indicates
an internal fault in the load(s).
Finding an earth fault
The battery negative terminal is connected
to “earth” (the metal of the
engine/transmission and the car body), and
most systems are wired so that they only
receive a positive feed. The current returning
through the metal of the car body. This means
that the component mounting and the body
form part of that circuit. Loose or corroded
mountings can therefore cause a range of
electrical faults, ranging from total failure of a
circuit, to a puzzling partial fault. In particular,
lights may shine dimly (especially when
another circuit sharing the same earth point is
in operation). Motors (e.g. wiper motors or the
radiator cooling fan motor) may run slowly,
and the operation of one circuit may have an
affect on another. Note that on many vehicles,
earth straps are used between certain
components, such as the engine/transmission
and the body, usually where there is no metal-
12•2Body electrical systems
Warning: Before carrying out
any work on the electrical
system, read through the
precautions given in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of this manual, and
in Chapter 5.
Caution:If the radio/cassette player fitted
to the vehicle is one with an anti-theft
security code, as the standard unit is, refer
to “Radio/cassette player anti-theft system
- precaution”in the Reference Section of
this manual before disconnecting the
battery.
Page 17 of 525
to-metal contact between components, due
to flexible rubber mountings, etc.
To check whether a component is properly
earthed, disconnect the battery, and connect
one lead of an ohmmeter to a known good
earth point. Connect the other lead to the wire
or earth connection being tested. The
resistance reading should be zero; if not,
check the connection as follows.
If an earth connection is thought to be
faulty, dismantle the connection, and clean
back to bare metal both the bodyshell and the
wire terminal or the component earth
connection mating surface. Be careful to
remove all traces of dirt and corrosion, then
use a knife to trim away any paint, so that a
clean metal-to-metal joint is made. On
reassembly, tighten the joint fasteners
securely; if a wire terminal is being refitted,
use serrated washers between the terminal
and the bodyshell, to ensure a clean and
secure connection. When the connection is
remade, prevent the onset of corrosion in the
future by applying a coat of petroleum jelly or
silicone-based grease.
3Fuses and relays - general
Fuses
1Fuses are designed to break a circuit when
a predetermined current is reached, to protect
the components and wiring which could be
damaged by excessive current flow. Any
excessive current flow will be due to a fault in
the circuit, usually a short-circuit (Section 2).
2The main fuses and relays are located in a
panel at the lower right-hand side of the facia,
under a hinged cover (see illustration).
3The circuits protected by the various fuses
and relays are marked on the inside of the
panel cover.
4A blown fuse can be recognised from its
melted or broken wire.
5To remove a fuse, first ensure that the
relevant circuit is switched off. Then open the
cover and pull the relevant fuse or relay from the
panel (see illustration). If desired, the lower
end of the panel can be tilted forwards, after
releasing the retaining clips to improve access. 6Before renewing a blown fuse, trace and
rectify the cause, and always use a fuse of the
correct rating. Never substitute a fuse of a
higher rating, or make temporary repairs using
wire or metal foil, as more serious damage or
even fire could result.
7Spare fuses are provided in the blank
terminal positions in the fusebox.
8Note that the fuses are colour-coded, see
Specifications. Refer to the wiring diagrams
for details of the fuse ratings and the circuits
protected.
Relays
9A relay is an electrically operated switch,
which is used for the following reasons:
a)A relay can switch a heavy current
remotely from the circuit in which the
current is flowing, allowing the use of
lighter-gauge wiring and switch contacts.
b)A relay can receive more than one control
input, unlike a mechanical switch.
c)A relay can have a timer function - for
example, the intermittent wiper relay.
10Most of the relays are located at the rear
of the main fusebox (remove the securing
screws and pull the fusebox forwards to
improve access). The rear wiper motor relay is
located in the tailgate, behind the tailgate trim
panel. On some models, additional engine-
related relays are located in the relay box
mounted on the left-hand side of the engine
compartment.
11On certain models, additional relays are
located in a box at the left-hand rear of the
engine compartment (see illustration).
12If a circuit or system controlled by a relay
develops a fault, and the relay is suspect,
operate the system. If the relay is functioning, it
should be possible to hear it “click” as it is
energised. If this is the case, the fault lies with
the components or wiring of the system. If the
relay is not being energised, then either the
relay is not receiving a main supply or a
switching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty.
Testing is by the substitution of a known good
unit, but be careful - while some relays are
identical in appearance and in operation, others
look similar but perform different functions.
13To remove a relay, first ensure that the
relevant circuit is switched off. The relay can
then simply be pulled out from the socket,
and pushed back into position.
4Ignition switch and lock
cylinder - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Turn the steering wheel as necessary to
expose the two front steering column shroud
securing screws, which are covered by plastic
caps. Prise out the caps and remove the
screws.
3Remove the three securing screws from the
underside of the lower column shroud, then
remove both the upper and lower shrouds.
4To remove the lock cylinder, insert the
ignition key and turn it to position “II”.
5Insert a thin rod into the hole in the lock
housing, then press the rod to release the
detent spring, and pull out the lock cylinder
using the key.
6The ignition switch is secured to the
steering lock housing by two grub screws.
Disconnect the wiring plug, and remove the
screws to extract the switch (see illustration).
Removal of the steering wheel, may aid
removal. Refer to Chapter 10 or Section 57, as
applicable. It is recommended that the switch
and the lock cylinder are not both removed at
the same time, so that their mutual alignment
is not lost.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Body electrical systems 12•3
3.11 Relays in engine compartment box -
2.0 litre SRi model shown
4.6 Removing an ignition switch securing
screw
3.5 Removing a fuse -
2.0 litre model shown3.2 Main fuses and relays in facia panel -
2.0 litre SRi model shown
12
Page 18 of 525
5Direction indicator/lighting
switch - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Turn the steering wheel as necessary to
expose the two front steering column shroud
securing screws, which are covered by plastic
caps. Prise out the caps and remove the
screws.
3Remove the three securing screws from the
underside of the lower column shroud, then
remove both the upper and lower shrouds.
4Disconnect the wiring plug from the switch.
5Depress the switch retaining clip, and
withdraw the switch from the housing.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.
6Wash/wipe switch - removal
and refitting
2
Proceed as described in Section 5.
7Facia panel switches -
removal and refitting
2
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Lighting switch
Removal
2Turn the switch to the “dipped beam on”
position, then insert a small screwdriver or rod
through the hole in the bottom of the switch
knob to depress the knob retaining clip. Pull
the knob from the switch (see illustration).
3Press the two now-exposed switch
securing clips towards the switch spindle,
then pull the switch from the facia and
disconnect the wiring plug (see illustrations).
4Note that the switch assembly cannot be
dismantled, and if any part of the switch is
faulty, the complete assembly must be
renewed.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Push-button switches
Removal
6First check beneath the switch, if there is a
small hole in the facia, insert a slim
screwdriver or metal rod into it. Release the
switch retaining spring clip by pressing it
upwards against the switch, then remove the
switch and disconnect its wiring. If there is no
hole, remove the switch by prising it out of the
facia using a small screwdriver. Lever gently
under the switch’s lower edge (use adhesive
tape or a piece of card to protect the facia’s
finish). Disconnect the switch wiring plug and
withdraw the switch (see illustration).
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Headlamp aim adjustment
switch
8The procedure is as described for push-
button switches.
Hazard warning switch
Removal
9Using a screwdriver, carefully prise the cap
from the switch (see illustration).
10Using a screwdriver with a piece of card
under the blade to avoid damage to the facia
trim, prise the ventilation nozzle from the
facia.
11Prise the switch from the facia and
disconnect the wiring (see illustration).
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Heater blower motor switch
Removal
13Remove the heater control panel, as
described in Chapter 11.
14Disconnect the wiring plug from the
switch, if not already done.
15Prise the switch out from the rear of the
heater control panel.
Refitting
16Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refer
to Chapter 11, when refitting the heater
control panel.
12•4Body electrical systems
7.2 Using a thin rod to depress the
lightning switch knob retaining clip
7.3B . . . then pull the switch from the facia
7.11 Withdrawing the hazard warning
flasher switch from the facia7.9 Prising the cap from the hazard
warning flasher switch7.6 Prising a push-button switch from the
facia
7.3A Press the switch securing clips
towards the switch spindle . . .
Page 19 of 525
8Electric door mirror switch -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Prise the plastic surround from the door
interior handle.
3Free the trim panel from the top edge of the
door by releasing the securing clips. This can
be done using a screwdriver, but it is
preferable to use a forked tool, to minimise
the possibility of damage to the trim panel and
the clips.
4Note the position of the mirror switch wiring
connector in the bracket at the top of the
door, then separate the two halves of the
connector.
5Prise the switch from the door trim panel,
and feed the wiring through the panel.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the wiring is correctly routed, so as not to
foul the door interior handle mechanism.
9Sunroof operating switch -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Prise the courtesy lamp from the roof trim
panel, and disconnect the wiring.
3Remove the two trim panel securing
screws, and withdraw the trim panel from the
roof, disconnecting the wiring from the
sunroof operating switch.
4Release the securing clips, then pull the
switch from the rear face of the trim panel.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
10Courtesy lamp switch -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Open the door and remove the switch
securing screw.
3Withdraw the switch from the door pillar,
and pull the wiring out sufficiently to prevent it
from springing back into the pillar.4Disconnect the wiring and remove the
switch.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
11Luggage compartment lamp
switch - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Open the boot lid or tailgate, as applicable,
and remove the switch securing screw.
3Withdraw the switch from the body panel,
and pull the wiring out sufficiently to prevent it
from springing back into the body.
4Disconnect the wiring and remove the
switch.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
12Brake lamp switch - removal
and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the lower trim panel from the
driver’s footwell.
3Disconnect the wiring plug from the brake
lamp switch, then twist the switch
anti-clockwise and remove it from its bracket.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
13Handbrake “on” warning
lamp switch - removal and
refitting
3
For access to the switch, the handbrake
lever must be removed. Removal and refitting
of the switch is described as part of the
handbrake lever removal and refitting
procedure, in Chapter 9.
14Oil pressure warning lamp
switch - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2The switch is screwed into the oil pump, on
the inlet manifold side of the engine. On 1.4
and 1.6 litre (except C16 NZ2), models the
switch projects at right-angles to the
crankshaft axis, while on C16 NZ2, 1.8 and
2.0 litre models it is parallel to the crankshaft
(see illustration).
3In most cases the switch can be reached
quite easily from above. However, on some
models access will be easier if the front of the
vehicle is jacked up and supported on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
(ensure that the handbrake is securely
applied) and the front right-hand roadwheel is
removed.
4Disconnect the switch wire and use a
spanner to unscrew the switch (see
illustration). As you withdraw the switch,
swiftly plug the hole in the oil pump to
minimise the loss of oil and to prevent the
entry of dirt.
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; tighten the switch securely but do
not overtighten it, reconnect its wire, then
check and if necessary top-up the oil level, as
described in Chapter 1. Wash off any spilt oil
and check for leaks when the engine is
restarted.
15Cigarette lighter - removal
and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Slide the ashtray/cigarette lighter assembly
from the facia, then disconnect the wiring and
slide the illumination bulb from the cigarette
lighter.
Body electrical systems 12•5
14.4 Unscrewing the oil pressure warning
lamp switch -
SOHC model (engine removed)14.2 Oil pressure warning lamp switch
(arrowed) viewed from underneath vehicle
- SOHC model
12
Tape the wiring to the door
pillar, to prevent if falling
back into the door pillar.
Alternatively, tie a piece of
string to the wiring to retrieve it.
Page 20 of 525
3To remove the cigarette lighter assembly,
simply pull it from the illumination ring
assembly. If desired, the illumination ring
assembly can be removed, by pulling it from
the housing after depressing the retaining
clips.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
16Clock - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, carefully
prise the clock from the facia panel.
3Disconnect the wiring plugs and withdraw
the clock (see illustration).
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
17Heated front seats - general
2
Heating pads are fitted to the front seats of
some models. Before attempting to remove a
seat so equipped, disconnect the battery and
the leads from the heating pad.
18Instrument panel -removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the steering wheel, (Chapter 10).
3Remove the steering column shrouds, and
the instrument panel upper and lower trim
panels, (Chapter 11).
4Remove the single upper, and two lower,
instrument panel securing screws (see
illustration).
5Carefully withdraw the instrument panel,
and disconnect the speedometer cable and
the two wiring plugs. Note that the
speedometer cable is retained by a clip, which
must be pressed towards the speedometer to
release the cable (see illustration).6If desired, the instrument panel can be
dismantled, with reference to Section 19.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the speedometer cable is not kinked or
twisted between the instrument panel and the
bulkhead as the panel is refitted.
19Instrument panel
components - removal and
refitting
3
1With the instrument panel removed, as
described in Section 18, continue as follows.
Panel illumination and warning
lamp bulbs
Removal
2Twist the relevant bulbholder clockwise,
and withdraw it from the printed circuit board
on the rear of the instrument panel (see
illustration).
3The bulbs are integral with the bulbholders,
and must be renewed as a unit.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Voltage stabiliser
Removal
5Remove the single securing screw from the
rear of the instrument panel, then pull the
voltage stabiliser from the contacts on the
printed circuit board (see illustration).
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Fuel and temperature gauges -
“low series” models
Removal
7Pull the trip meter reset pin from the front of
the panel.
8Release the two retaining clips at the top of
the panel, and remove the panel shroud (see
illustration).
9Unscrew the two securing nuts, and
withdraw the relevant gauge through the front
of the instrument panel.
12•6Body electrical systems
16.3 Disconnecting the wiring plugs from
the clock
18.5 Disconnecting an instrument panel
wiring plug. Note speedometer cable
retaining clip (arrowed)
19.8 Removing the instrument panel
shroud19.5 Instrument panel voltage stabiliser
(arrowed)19.2 Withdrawing an instrument panel
illumination lamp bulb
18.4 Unscrewing a lower instrument panel
securing screw