transmission SAAB 9-7X 2006 Owner's Manual

Page 256 of 434

Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from
driving in at or rolling terrain.If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can
make your trips safer and more enjoyable.
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all uid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system,
and transmission. These parts can work hard on
mountain roads.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, your brakes could get
so hot that they would not work well. You would
then have poor braking or even none going
down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let
your engine assist your brakes on a steep
downhill slope.
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{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have
to do all the work of slowing down. They could
get so hot that they would not work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none
going down a hill. You could crash. Always have
your engine running and your vehicle in gear
when you go downhill.
Know how to go down hills. The most important thing
to know is this: let your engine do some of the
slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go
down a steep or long hill.
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to
a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine
and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let
you stay in your own lane.
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could
be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an
accident.
You may see highway signs on mountains that warn
of special problems. Examples are long grades,
passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or
winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate
action.
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Page 262 of 434

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin
your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can
help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use
caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured.
And, the transmission or other parts of the
vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment re or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little
as possible. Do not spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts
of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For more information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 5-72.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear
the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and
forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear,
spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the
accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By
slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free
your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few tries,
you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be
towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-39.
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Page 272 of 434

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also
where you’ll be driving. A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later in
this section.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and
don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower
gear selection if the transmission shifts too often
(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).Three important considerations have to do with weight:
the weight of the trailer,
the weight of the trailer tongue
and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example,
speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and
how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all
important. It can also depend on any special equipment
that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue
weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer
Tongue” later in this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
Use the following chart to nd the maximum trailer
weight for your vehicle.
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Page 279 of 434

Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers you’re
about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are
burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are
seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to
check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down,
you might have to use your brakes so much that they
would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear, under heavy
loads or hilly conditions.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on
steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar
to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run
while parked (preferably on level ground) with the
automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes
before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat
warning, seeEngine Overheating on page 5-27.
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Page 280 of 434

Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with
a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet. When parking uphill, turn your wheels
away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your
wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission uid (don’t overll),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belt(s), cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you nd them quickly. If you’re
trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before
you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
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Page 283 of 434

Service............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modications..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning.....................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle . . .5-4
Fuel................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane............................................5-5
Gasoline Specications....................................5-5
California Fuel...............................................5-5
Additives.......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-7
Filling the Tank..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-10
Hood Release..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-16
Engine Oil Life System..................................5-19
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-21
Automatic Transmission Fluid.........................5-22
Engine Coolant.............................................5-24
Radiator Pressure Cap..................................5-27
Engine Overheating.......................................5-27
Cooling System............................................5-29
Engine Fan Noise.........................................5-34
Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-35Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-36
Brakes........................................................5-37
Battery........................................................5-40
Jump Starting...............................................5-41
All-Wheel Drive..............................................5-46
Rear Axle.......................................................5-47
Front Axle......................................................5-48
Headlamp Aiming...........................................5-49
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-49
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting............5-49
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-50
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker,
and Parking Lamps....................................5-50
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker,
Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps...................5-52
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-53
Windshield Replacement.................................5-53
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-53
Tires..............................................................5-56
Tire Sidewall Labeling...................................5-57
Tire Terminology and Denitions.....................5-60
Ination - Tire Pressure.................................5-62
Tire Inspection and Rotation...........................5-65
When It Is Time for New Tires.......................5-66
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System
on page 5-29.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid on
page 5-36.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-35.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (Out of View).
See “Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-22.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-27.
H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.
I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 5-41.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-37.
K. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-40.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-99.
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A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System
on page 5-29.
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-36.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See
“Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-22.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-27.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 5-41.
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-35.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-37.
K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-99.
L. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-40.
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Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
Automatic Transmission Fluid
A good time to check your automatic transmission uid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change the uid and lter at the intervals listed in
Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure
to use the transmission uid listed inRecommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
How to Check Automatic
Transmission Fluid
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealership service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can damage your
transmission. Too much can mean that some of the
uid could come out and fall on hot engine part or
exhaust system parts, starting a re. Too little uid
could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure
to get an accurate reading if you check your
transmission uid.Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission uid level if you have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the uid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F
(82°C to 93°C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above
50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the
vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage
moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes.
A cold uid check can be made after the vehicle has been
sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this
is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for
ve minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or
more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to
idle the engine longer. Should the uid level be low during
this cold check, you must check the uid hot before
adding uid. Checking the uid hot will give you a more
accurate reading of the uid level.
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