drain bolt BMW 3 SERIES 1983 E30 Owner's Manual

21 Steering box (5-Series)-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
Note:If you find that the steering box is
defective, it is not recommended that you
overhaul it. Because of the special tools
needed to do the job, it is best to let your
dealer service department overhaul it for you
(otherwise, fit a new unit). Removal and
refitting the steering box is outlined here.
1On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models,
discharge the hydraulic system by depressing
the brake pedal about 20 times.
2Using a large syringe or hand pump, empty
the power steering fluid reservoir (see Chap-
ter 1).
3Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands.
4Support the front of the engine with a trolley
jack. Place a block of wood between the jack
head and the sump to protect the sump from
damage.
5Remove the pivot bolts from the inner ends
of the front control arms (see Section 4).
6Remove the nuts from the left and right
engine mountings (see Chapter 2).
7Remove the mounting bolts (two on each
side on earlier models, three on each side on
later models) from the subframe crossmember
(see illustration)and remove the subframe.
8Remove the nuts and bolts that secure the
universal joint shaft to the steering box worm
shaft. Slide the universal joint shaft up and off
the worm shaft. Inspect the universal joint
shaft for wear. If it’s stiff or worn, renew it.
9Remove the banjo bolts, and disconnect
the hydraulic pressure line and the return line
from the box (see illustration). Plug the ends
of the lines to prevent fluid loss and
contamination. Discard the sealing washers -
new ones should be used when reassembling.
10Remove the steering box retaining bolts
(see illustrations)and remove the steering
box.
11If it’s necessary to detach the Pitman arm
from the box sector shaft (to have the box
serviced or to switch the arm to a new orrebuilt unit), make a match mark across the
two for correct reassembly. Remove the
Pitman arm retaining nut and washer. Use a
puller to withdraw the arm if necessary.
Refitting
12Refit the Pitman arm by aligning the
match marks made during removal, then
tighten the nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
13When fitted the Pitman arm must not have
any measurable endfloat within 100° from the
neutral position. If play exists, have the
following parts checked:
a) Sector shaft and bearings (for wear)
b) Thrust washer and adjuster bolt head (for
wear)
c) Ball nut and worm shaft (for wear)
14Refit the steering box. Align the mark on
the pinion gear shaft with the mark on the
universal joint shaft, and tighten the steering
box bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
15The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Be sure to use new self-locking nuts
on the universal joint shaft, the centre track
rod, the steering box and the crossmember.
Also, use new sealing washers on the
hydraulic line fittings.
16Refer to Chapter 1 and fill the powersteering reservoir with the recommended
fluid, then bleed the system as described in
Section 23. Check for leakage from the lines
and connections.22 Power steering pump-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove the engine undertray.
2On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models,
discharge the hydraulic system by depressing
the brake pedal about 20 times before
loosening the hydraulic line fittings.
3Disconnect the fluid return hose, and drain
the power steering fluid from the reservoir into
a clean container. Disconnect the pressure
line from the pump.
4If you need to remove the pulley from the
pump, push on the power steering pump
drivebelt by hand to increase the tension, and
unscrew the pulley nuts or bolts.
5Loosen the power steering pump drivebelt
tensioner bolt, and remove the drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
6Remove the mounting bolts (see
illustrations)and detach the power steering
pump.
Suspension and steering systems 10•15
21.10a This bolt (arrowed) secures the
steering box to the subframe
crossmember. The nut, not visible in this
photo, is accessed through a hole in the
crossmember (engine removed for clarity,
left-hand-drive shown)21.9 Disconnect the power steering
pressure line fitting (right arrow) and the
return line fitting (left arrow). Note that the
return line fitting banjo bolt is larger than
the bolt for the pressure line fitting (left-
hand-drive shown)21.7 Subframe crossmember bolts
(arrowed)
22.6a Typical 3-Series power steering
pump adjusting bolt (arrowed) . . .
21.10b This bolt (arrowed) attaches the
steering box to the body (the nut, not
visible in this photo, is on the front side of
the steering box)
10

11
1 General information
These models feature an all-steel welded
construction, where the floorpan and body
components are welded together and
attached to separate front and rear subframe
assemblies. Certain components are
particularly vulnerable to accident damage,
and can be unbolted and repaired or renewed.
Among these parts are the body mouldings,
bumpers, bonnet, doors, tailgate, and all
glass.
Only general body maintenance procedures
and body panel repair procedures within the
scope of the do-it-yourselfer are included in
this Chapter.
2 Bodywork and underframe-
maintenance
1
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheelarches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at
many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Note that these methods should not be usedon vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating, or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when
the underbody should be washed down, and
any damage to the wax coating repaired.
Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be
applied. It would also be worth considering
the use of such wax-based protection for
injection into door panels, sills, box sections,
etc, as an additional safeguard against rust
damage, where such protection is not
provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to be
taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-
abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid
damage to the finish. Always check that the
door and ventilator opening drain holes and
pipes are completely clear, so that water can
be drained out. Brightwork should be treated in
the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and
windows can be kept clear of the smeary film
which often appears, by the use of proprietary
glass cleaner. Never use any form of wax or
other body or chromium polish on glass.
Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings
Bodywork and underframe - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Bodywork repair - major damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Bodywork repair - minor damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Boot lid/tailgate - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Door trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Door window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Exterior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Fixed glass - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Hinges and locks - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Interior trim - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal, refitting and
adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Steering column shrouds - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Upholstery and carpets - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
11•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty Contents

REF•8General Repair Procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components,
observe the following procedures and
instructions. This will assist in carrying out the
operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, a new one must be
fitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwise
stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that
the mating faces are clean and dry, with all
traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a
joint face, use a tool which is unlikely to score
or damage the face, and remove any burrs or
nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing isunshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and
should then be renewed as a matter of course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring com-
pressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the manu-
facturer’s special tools are described, and are
shown in use. In some instances, where no
alternative is possible, it has been necessary
to resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool,
and this has been done for reasons of safety
as well as the efficient completion of the repair
operation. Unless you are highly-skilled and
have a thorough understanding of the
procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal
injury, but expensive damage could be
caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.
With the universal tightening-up of legis-
lation regarding the emission of environmen-
tally-harmful substances from motor vehicles,
most vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted
to the main adjustment points of the fuel
system. These devices are primarily designed
to prevent unqualified persons from adjusting
the fuel/air mixture, with the chance of a
consequent increase in toxic emissions. If
such devices are found during servicing or
overhaul, they should, wherever possible, be
renewed or refitted in accordance with the
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

REF•10Fault Finding
Engine will not rotate when attempting to start
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mBattery discharged or faulty (Chapter 1).
m mAutomatic transmission not completely engaged in Park (Chap-
ter 7B) or (on models with a clutch switch) clutch not completely
depressed (Chapter 8).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapters 5 and 12).
m mStarter motor pinion jammed in flywheel ring gear (Chapter 5).
m mStarter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor faulty (Chapter 5).
m mIgnition switch faulty (Chapter 12).
m mStarter pinion or flywheel teeth worn or broken (Chapter 5).
m mEngine internal problem (Chapter 2B).
Engine rotates, but will not start
m
mFuel tank empty.
m mBattery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mLeaking fuel injector(s), faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator, etc
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel not reaching fuel injection system or carburettor (Chapter 4).
m mIgnition components damp or damaged (Chapter 5).
m mFuel injector stuck open (Chapter 4).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapter 5).
m mLoose distributor mounting bolts causing ignition timing to wander
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil, or faulty
coil (Chapter 5).
Engine hard to start when cold
m mBattery discharged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel system malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mInjector(s) leaking or carburettor automatic choke faulty (Chap-
ter 4).
m mDistributor rotor carbon-tracked (Chapter 5).
Engine hard to start when hot
m
mAir filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel not reaching the fuel injection system or carburettor (Chap-
ter 4).
m mCorroded battery connections, especially earth (negative)
connection (Chapter 1).
Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in
engagement
m mPinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).
Engine starts, but stops immediately
m
mLoose or faulty electrical connections at distributor, coil or
alternator (Chapter 5).
m mInsufficient fuel reaching the fuel injector(s) or carburettor
(Chapters 1 and 4).
m mDamaged fuel injection system speed sensors (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty fuel injection relays (Chapter 5).
Oil puddle under engine
m
mOil sump gasket and/or sump drain plug seal leaking (Chapter 2).
m mOil pressure sender unit leaking (Chapter 2).
m mValve cover gaskets leaking (Chapter 2).
m mEngine oil seals leaking (Chapter 2).
Engine idles erratically
m
mVacuum leakage (Chapter 4).
m mAir filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the fuel injection system
or carburettor (Chapter 4).
m mLeaking head gasket (Chapter 2).
m mTiming belt/chain and/or sprockets worn (Chapter 2).
m mCamshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).
m mFaulty charcoal canister, where fitted (Chapter 6). This Section provides an easy-reference guide to the more
common problems which may occur during the operation of your
vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under
headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,
Cooling system, etc. They also refer you to the Chapter and/or
Section which deals with the problem.
Remember that successful fault diagnosis is not a mysterious
black art practised only by professional mechanics. It is simply the
result of the right knowledge combined with an intelligent, systematic
approach to the problem. Always work by a process of elimination,
starting with the simplest solution and working through to the mostcomplex - and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can run the fuel
tank dry or leave the lights on overnight, so don’t assume that you are
exempt from such oversights.
Finally, always establish a clear idea of why a problem has
occurred, and take steps to ensure that it doesn’t happen again. If the
electrical system fails because of a poor connection, check all other
connections in the system to make sure that they don’t fail as well. If a
particular fuse continues to blow, find out why - don’t just renew one
fuse after another. Remember, failure of a small component can often
be indicative of potential failure or incorrect functioning of a more
important component or system.
Engine

REF•12Fault Finding
Fuel system
Excessive fuel consumption
m mDirty or clogged air filter element (Chapter 1).
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).
m mEmissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
m mFuel injection internal parts or carburettor jets excessively worn or
damaged (Chapter 4).
m mLow tyre pressure or incorrect tyre size (Chapter 1).
m mUnsympathetic driving style, or unfavourable conditions.
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
Warning: Don’t drive the vehicle if a fuel leak is
suspected. Leaking fuel in the engine compartment
could catch fire.
m mLeak in a fuel feed or vent line (Chapter 4).
m mTank overfilled.
m mFuel injector or carburettor parts excessively worn, or fuel system
gaskets leaking (Chapter 4).
Cooling system
Overheating
m mInsufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).
m mWater pump drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
m mRadiator matrix blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3).
m mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mRadiator cap not maintaining proper pressure (Chapter 3).
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).
Overcooling
m
mFaulty thermostat (Chapter 3).
External coolant leakage
m
mDeteriorated/damaged hoses; loose clamps (Chapters 1 and 3).
m mWater pump seal defective (Chapters 1 and 3).
m mLeakage from radiator matrix, heater matrix or header tank
(Chapter 3).
m mRadiator/engine block drain plugs or water jacket core plugs
leaking (Chapters 2 and 3).
Internal coolant leakage
m mLeaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
m mCracked cylinder bore or cylinder head (Chapter 2).
Coolant loss
m
mToo much coolant in system (Chapter 1).
m mCoolant boiling away because of overheating (see above).
m mInternal or external leakage (see above).
m mFaulty radiator cap (Chapter 3).
Poor coolant circulation
m
mInoperative water pump (Chapter 3).
m mRestriction in cooling system (Chapters 1 and 3).
m mWater pump drivebelt defective/out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
m mThermostat sticking (Chapter 3).
Clutch
Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little
resistance
m mMaster or slave cylinder faulty (Chapter 8).
m mFluid line burst or leaking (Chapter 8).
m mConnections leaking (Chapter 8).
m mNo fluid in reservoir (Chapter 1).
m mIf fluid is present in master cylinder dust cover, master cylinder rear
seal has failed (Chapter 8).
m mBroken release bearing or fork (Chapter 8).
Fluid in area of master cylinder dust cover, and on
pedal
m mRear seal failure in master cylinder (Chapter 8).
Fluid on slave cylinder
m
mSlave cylinder plunger seal faulty (Chapter 8).
Pedal feels “spongy” when depressed
m
mAir in system (Chapter 8).
Unable to select gears
m
mFaulty transmission (Chapter 7).
m mFaulty clutch plate (Chapter 8).
m mFork and bearing not assembled properly (Chapter 8).
m mFaulty pressure plate (Chapter 8).
m mPressure plate-to-flywheel bolts loose (Chapter 8).
Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no
increase in vehicle speed)
m mClutch plate worn (Chapter 8).
m mClutch plate is oil-soaked by leaking rear main seal (Chapter 8).
m mWarped pressure plate or flywheel (Chapter 8).
m mWeak diaphragm spring (Chapter 8).
m mClutch plate overheated.
Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged
m
mOil on clutch plate lining, burned or glazed facings (Chapter 8).
m mWorn or loose engine or transmission mountings (Chapters 2
and 7A).
m mWorn splines on clutch plate hub (Chapter 8).
m mWarped pressure plate or flywheel (Chapter 8).
Noise in clutch area
m
mFork improperly fitted (Chapter 8).
m mFaulty release bearing (Chapter 8).
Clutch pedal stays on floor
m
mFork binding in housing (Chapter 8).
m mBroken release bearing or fork (Chapter 8).
High pedal effort
m
mFork binding in housing (Chapter 8).
m mPressure plate faulty (Chapter 8).
m mIncorrect-size master or slave cylinder fitted (Chapter 8).