Reverse BMW 3 SERIES 1984 E30 Manual PDF

13 Headlights- adjustment
2
Note:The headlights must be aimed correctly.
If adjusted incorrectly, they could momentarily
blind the driver of an oncoming vehicle and
cause a serious accident, or seriously reduce
your ability to see the road. The headlights
should be checked for proper aim every
12 months (as is done during the MOT test),
and any time a new headlight is fitted or front-
end body work is performed. It should be
emphasised that the following procedure will
only provide a temporary setting until the
headlights can be adjusted by a properly-
equipped garage.
1Each headlight has two adjusting screws,
one controlling up-and-down movement and
one controlling left-and-right movement (see
illustration). It may be necessary to remove
the grille (see Chapter 11) for access to these
screws.
2There are several methods of adjusting the
headlights. The simplest method requires a
blank wall (or garage door) 25 feet in front of
the vehicle, and a level floor.
3Position masking tape vertically on the wall,
to mark the vehicle centreline and the
centreline of both headlights. Note:It may be
easier to position the tape on the wall with the
vehicle parked only a few inches away, and
then move the vehicle back the required
distance when all marks have been made.
4Make a horizontal line on the wall to mark
the centreline of all headlights.
5Move the vehicle back so that it is 25 feet
away from the marked wall (keep the front end
of the vehicle square to the wall). Adjustment
should be made with the vehicle sitting level,
the fuel tank half-full, and with no unusually
heavy loads in the vehicle.
6Switch on the dipped beam. The bright
spots on the wall should be two inches below
the horizontal line, and two inches to the left
of the headlight vertical lines. Adjustment is
made by turning the adjusting screw to raise
or lower the beam. The other adjusting screwshould be used in the same manner to move
the beam left or right.
7With main beam on, the bright spots on the
wall should be exactly on the vertical lines,
and just below the horizontal line. Note:It may
not be possible to position the headlight aim
exactly for both main and dipped beams. If a
compromise must be made, keep in mind that
the dipped beam is most used, and will have
the greatest effect on driver safety.
8Have the headlights adjusted by a dealer
service department or qualified garage at the
earliest opportunity.
14 Headlight housing-
removal and refitting
1
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.2Remove the side grille (see Chapter 11),
then remove the rear cover(s) where
necessary.
3Unplug the headlight (sealed beam-type) or
remove the bulb (halogen bulb-type).
4Remove the screws and detach the housing
(see illustration).
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
15 Bulb renewal
1
1The lenses of many lights are held in place
by screws, which makes it a simple procedure
to gain access to the bulbs.
2On some lights, the lenses are held in place
by clips. The lenses can be removed by using
a small screwdriver to prise them off.
3Several bulbs are mounted in self-earthing
holders, and are removed by pushing in and
turning them anti-clockwise (see illustration).
The bulbs can then be removed (see
illustrations).
4The tail lights on 3-Series models are
accessible after removing the housing, then
removing the bulbs (see illustrations).
5To gain access to the facia lights, the
instrument cluster will have to be removed
first (see illustration).
12•6 Body electrical systems
15.3c . . . then pull the bulb from the
holder15.3b On models with high-mounted
centre brake lights, the self-earthing
holder is accessible from the luggage area
- pull the holder out . . .15.3a The tail light bulbs on later 5-Series
models are in self-earthing holders which
can be simply pulled out of the housing -
the bulb is then removed from the holder
14.4 Remove the screws (arrowed) and
detach the headlight housing13.1 The headlight adjustment screws
(arrowed) are accessible from the back of
the headlight on 3-Series models

16 Windscreen/tailgate wiper
motor- removal and refitting
2
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Windscreen wiper motor
2Remove the covers and nuts, then detach
the wiper arms (see illustrations).
3Prise out the retaining clips and detach the
cowl grille for access to the wiper assembly.
4Remove the screws or nuts and detach the
wiper cover located on the engine
compartment bulkhead.
5Unplug the electrical connector and detach
the wiper linkage.
6Mark the relationship of the wiper shaft to the
linkage. Detach the wiper link from the motor
shaft by prising carefully with a screwdriver.
7Remove the three retaining bolts and
remove the wiper motor from the vehicle.
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. When
fitting the motor, if necessary plug in theconnector and run the motor briefly until it is
in the “neutral” (wipers parked) position.Tailgate wiper motor
9On 3-Series models, remove the cover and
nut, then detach the wiper arm (see
illustration). On 5-Series models, open the
rear window away from the tailgate.
10As applicable, remove the trim panel(s),
then disconnect the washer tube and the
wiring plug.
11Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw
the wiper motor (see illustrations). On 5-
Series models, the wiper blade and pivot
mechanism may be removed from the rear
window if necessary after removing the trim
panels (see illustration).
Body electrical systems 12•7
15.5 After removing the instrument cluster
(see Section 10), turn the bulbholder anti-
clockwise to remove the bulb15.4b . . . then remove the bulb from the
housing15.4a On 3-Series models, the entire tail
light housing assembly is self-earthing
through the mounting screw - loosen the
plastic screw and pull the housing back . . .
16.11a Removing the tailgate wiper motor (3-Series)
16.2b After removing the nut, use a magnet to lift out the metal
washer16.2a Use a small screwdriver to detach the wiper arm nut cover,
or swivel the cover up
16.9 Removing the tailgate wiper arm nut (3-Series)
12

REF•9
REF
Fault Finding
Engine
m mEngine will not rotate when attempting to start
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine hard to start when cold
m mEngine hard to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mOil puddle under engine
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misses at idle speed
m mEngine misses throughout driving speed range
m mEngine misfires on acceleration
m mEngine surges while holding accelerator steady
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mPinking or knocking engine sounds when accelerating
or driving uphill
m mEngine runs with oil pressure light on
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
Engine electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold charge
m mIgnition (no-charge) warning light fails to go out
m mIgnition (no-charge) warning light fails to come on
when key is turned
Fuel system
m mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
Cooling system
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCoolant loss
m mPoor coolant circulation
Clutch
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mFluid in area of master cylinder dust cover and on pedal
m mFluid on slave cylinder
m mPedal feels “spongy” when depressed
m mUnable to select gears
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in
vehicle speed)
m mGrabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged
m mNoise in clutch area
m mClutch pedal stays on floor
m mHigh pedal effort
Manual transmission
m
mVibration
m mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mNoisy in all gears
m mSlips out of gear
m mLeaks lubricant
Automatic transmission
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has a burned smell
m mGeneral shift mechanism problems
m mTransmission will not kickdown with accelerator pedal
pressed to the floor
m mEngine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive
in forward or reverse gears
Brakes
m mVehicle pulls to one side during braking
m mNoise (high-pitched squeal) when the brakes are applied
m mBrake vibration (pedal pulsates)
m mExcessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mDragging brakes
m mGrabbing or uneven braking action
m mBrake pedal feels “spongy” when depressed
m mBrake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance
m mHandbrake does not hold
Suspension and steering
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mAbnormal or excessive tyre wear
m mWheel makes a “thumping” noise
m mShimmy, shake or vibration
m mHigh steering effort
m mPoor steering self-centring
m mAbnormal noise at the front end
m mWandering or poor steering stability
m mErratic steering when braking
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or
during braking
m mSuspension bottoms
m mUnevenly-worn tyres
m mExcessive tyre wear on outside edge
m mExcessive tyre wear on inside edge
m mTyre tread worn in one place
m mExcessive play or looseness in steering system
m mRattling or clicking noise in steering gear

REF•13
REF
Fault Finding
Automatic transmission
Note:Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is
difficult for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this
unit. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be
taken to a dealer or transmission specialist.
Fluid leakage
m mAutomatic transmission fluid is a deep red colour. Fluid leaks
should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown
by airflow onto the transmission.
m mTo pinpoint a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from the
transmission housing with degreasing agents and/or by steam-
cleaning. Then drive the vehicle at low speed, so airflow will not
blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine
where the leak is coming from. Common areas of leakage are:
a) Transmission sump (Chapters 1 and 7B)
b) Filler pipe (Chapter 7B)
c) Transmission fluid cooler lines (Chapter 7B)
d) Speedometer sensor (Chapter 7B)
Transmission fluid brown, or has a burned smell
m mTransmission fluid burned; fluid should be changed. May indicate
transmission internal fault (Chapters 1 and 7B).
Transmission will not kickdown with accelerator
pedal pressed to the floor
m mKickdown cable out of adjustment (Chapter 7B).
General shift mechanism problems
m
mChapter 7B deals with checking and adjusting the shift linkage on
automatic transmissions. Common problems which may be
attributed to poorly-adjusted linkage are:
a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b) Indicator on selector lever pointing to a gear other than the one
actually being used.
c) Vehicle moves when in Park.
m mRefer to Chapter 7B for the shift linkage adjustment procedure.
Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral
m
mInhibitor switch malfunctioning (Chapter 7B).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has
no drive in forward or reverse gears
m mThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -
fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to an automatic transmission
specialist, check the level and condition of the fluid as described in
Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or change the fluid
if needed. If the problem persists, have a professional diagnose the
probable cause.
Manual transmission
Vibration
m mDamaged propeller shaft (Chapter 8).
m mOut-of-round tyres (Chapter 1).
m mTyre out-of-balance (Chapters 1 and 10).
m mWorn propeller shaft universal joint (Chapter 8).
Noisy in neutral with engine running
m
mWorn clutch release bearing (Chapter 8).
m mWorn transmission input shaft bearing (Chapter 7A).
Noisy in one particular gear
m
mDamaged or worn constant-mesh gears.
m mDamaged or worn synchronisers.
Noisy in all gears
m
mInsufficient lubricant (Chapter 1).
m mDamaged or worn bearings.
m mWorn or damaged input gear shaft and/or output gear shaft.
Slips out of gear
m
mWorn or incorrectly-adjusted linkage (Chapter 7A).
m mTransmission-to-engine mounting bolts loose (Chapter 7A).
m mShift linkage binding (Chapter 7A).
m mWorn shift fork (Chapter 7A).
Leaks lubricant
m
mExcessive amount of lubricant in transmission (Chapters 1 and 7A).
m mLoose or broken input shaft bearing retainer (Chapter 7A).
m mInput shaft bearing retainer O-ring and/or lip seal damaged
(Chapter 7A).