ball joint BMW 3 SERIES 1986 E30 User Guide

syringe or hand pump, empty the power
steering fluid reservoir.
4On power steering models, remove the
banjo bolts and disconnect the power
steering pressure and return lines from the
steering gear. Place a container under the
lines to catch spilled fluid. Plug the lines to
prevent excessive fluid loss and
contamination. Discard the sealing washers
(new ones should be used when
reassembling).
5Disconnect the track rod ends from the
steering arms (see Section 17).
6Remove the nuts and bolts from the
steering gear mounting brackets (see
illustration). Discard the old nuts.
7Withdraw the assembly from beneath the
vehicle. Take care not to damage the steering
gear boots.
Refitting
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure the marks you made on the lower
universal joint and the pinion shaft are aligned
before you tighten the clamping bolts for the
upper and lower universal joints. Use new
self-locking nuts on the steering rackmounting bolts, and new sealing washers on
the hydraulic line fittings. Tighten the
mounting bolts, the track rod end nuts and the
universal joint shaft clamping bolts to the
torque values listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations.
9Lower the vehicle to the ground.
10On power steering models, fill the
reservoir with the recommended fluid (see
Chapter 1) and bleed the power steering
system (see Section 23).
11It’s a good idea to have the front wheel
alignment checked by a dealer service
department or qualified garage.
20 Steering linkage (5-Series)-
inspection, removal and
refitting
4
Inspection
1Raise the vehicle and place it securely on
axle stands.
2Firmly grasp each front tyre at the top and
bottom, then at the front and rear, and check
for play in the steering linkage by rocking the
tyre back and forth. There should be little or
no play in any of the linkage balljoints. Inspect
the Pitman arm, the idler arm, the centre track
rod, the inner track rods, the track rod ends
and the steering arms for any obvious
damage. Try forcing the linkage parts in
opposite directions from one another. There
should be no play between any of them. If any
of the parts are bent or damaged in any way,
or if any of the balljoints are worn, renew the
parts concerned.
Removal
3Before dismantling the steering linkage,
obtain a suitable balljoint separator. A two-jaw
puller or a wedge-type tool will work (although
the wedge-type tends to tear the balljoint
boots). Sometimes, you can also jar a balljoint
taper pin free from its eye by striking opposite
sides of the eye simultaneously with two large
hammers, but the space available to do this is
limited, and the balljoint stud sometimessticks to the eye because of rust and dirt.
There is also a risk of damaging the
component being struck.
4To remove the outer track rods, disconnect
the track rod ends from the steering arms (see
Section 17). Remove the nut that attaches the
balljoint on the inner end of each outer track
rod to the centre track rod (see illustration).
Using a balljoint separator, disconnect the
outer track rods from the centre track rod. If
you’re renewing the balljoint at either end of
the outer track rods, paint or scribe alignment
marks on the threads to mark their respective
positions as a guide to adjustment during
reassembly (see illustration 17.3).
5To remove the centre track rod, remove the
nuts that attach the centre track rod balljoints
to the Pitman arm and the idler arm, and use a
balljoint separator to disconnect the balljoints
from the two arms.
6To remove the Pitman arm, you’ll have to
remove the steering box first (see Section 21).
Look for match marks between the sector
shaft and arm. If there aren’t any, scribe a
mark across the bottom face of both parts.
Remove the Pitman arm pinch-bolt and nut,
then remove the arm with a puller.
7To unbolt the idler arm, first remove the
small cover bolted to the top of the subframe
crossmember. Put a spanner on the bolt, and
remove the nut recessed into the underside of
the subframe crossmember (see illustration).
Check the idler arm rubber bush for wear. If
it’s damaged or worn, renew it.
8Check each balljoint for excessive play or
stiffness, and for split or deteriorated rubber
dust boots. Renew all worn or damaged
balljoints. The inner and outer track rod ends
on the outer track rods can be renewed
individually; if either balljoint on the centre
track rod is damaged or worn, you must
renew the centre track rod.
Refitting
9Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, but observe the following points:
a) Realign the match marks on the Pitman
arm and the steering box sector shaft
when reassembling them.
b) If you’re fitting new inner or outer track
rod ends on the outer track rods, position
them so that the match marks made
during dismantling are aligned, and make
sure they are equally spaced on each
side.
c) Position the track rod end balljoint studs
on the outer track rods at an angle of 90°
to each other.
d) Make sure the left and right outer track
rods are equal in length when they are
fitted.
e) Tighten all retaining bolts to the torque
values listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations.
f) When reassembly of the linkage is
complete, have the front wheel alignment
checked, and if necessary, adjusted.
10•14 Suspension and steering systems
20.7 To unbolt the idler arm from the
subframe crossmember, remove this nut
(arrowed)
20.4 To remove an outer track rod,
remove this nut (arrowed) from the end of
the centre track rod, and use a balljoint
separator to separate the balljoint stud
from the centre track rod (if you’re
renewing the inner track rod end, mark the
threads with paint before loosening the
clamp bolt and nut)
19.6 Rack-and-pinion steering gear
mounting bolts (arrowed) - 3-Series
models - (self-locking nuts not visible in
this photo)

21 Steering box (5-Series)-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
Note:If you find that the steering box is
defective, it is not recommended that you
overhaul it. Because of the special tools
needed to do the job, it is best to let your
dealer service department overhaul it for you
(otherwise, fit a new unit). Removal and
refitting the steering box is outlined here.
1On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models,
discharge the hydraulic system by depressing
the brake pedal about 20 times.
2Using a large syringe or hand pump, empty
the power steering fluid reservoir (see Chap-
ter 1).
3Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands.
4Support the front of the engine with a trolley
jack. Place a block of wood between the jack
head and the sump to protect the sump from
damage.
5Remove the pivot bolts from the inner ends
of the front control arms (see Section 4).
6Remove the nuts from the left and right
engine mountings (see Chapter 2).
7Remove the mounting bolts (two on each
side on earlier models, three on each side on
later models) from the subframe crossmember
(see illustration)and remove the subframe.
8Remove the nuts and bolts that secure the
universal joint shaft to the steering box worm
shaft. Slide the universal joint shaft up and off
the worm shaft. Inspect the universal joint
shaft for wear. If it’s stiff or worn, renew it.
9Remove the banjo bolts, and disconnect
the hydraulic pressure line and the return line
from the box (see illustration). Plug the ends
of the lines to prevent fluid loss and
contamination. Discard the sealing washers -
new ones should be used when reassembling.
10Remove the steering box retaining bolts
(see illustrations)and remove the steering
box.
11If it’s necessary to detach the Pitman arm
from the box sector shaft (to have the box
serviced or to switch the arm to a new orrebuilt unit), make a match mark across the
two for correct reassembly. Remove the
Pitman arm retaining nut and washer. Use a
puller to withdraw the arm if necessary.
Refitting
12Refit the Pitman arm by aligning the
match marks made during removal, then
tighten the nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
13When fitted the Pitman arm must not have
any measurable endfloat within 100° from the
neutral position. If play exists, have the
following parts checked:
a) Sector shaft and bearings (for wear)
b) Thrust washer and adjuster bolt head (for
wear)
c) Ball nut and worm shaft (for wear)
14Refit the steering box. Align the mark on
the pinion gear shaft with the mark on the
universal joint shaft, and tighten the steering
box bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
15The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Be sure to use new self-locking nuts
on the universal joint shaft, the centre track
rod, the steering box and the crossmember.
Also, use new sealing washers on the
hydraulic line fittings.
16Refer to Chapter 1 and fill the powersteering reservoir with the recommended
fluid, then bleed the system as described in
Section 23. Check for leakage from the lines
and connections.22 Power steering pump-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove the engine undertray.
2On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models,
discharge the hydraulic system by depressing
the brake pedal about 20 times before
loosening the hydraulic line fittings.
3Disconnect the fluid return hose, and drain
the power steering fluid from the reservoir into
a clean container. Disconnect the pressure
line from the pump.
4If you need to remove the pulley from the
pump, push on the power steering pump
drivebelt by hand to increase the tension, and
unscrew the pulley nuts or bolts.
5Loosen the power steering pump drivebelt
tensioner bolt, and remove the drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
6Remove the mounting bolts (see
illustrations)and detach the power steering
pump.
Suspension and steering systems 10•15
21.10a This bolt (arrowed) secures the
steering box to the subframe
crossmember. The nut, not visible in this
photo, is accessed through a hole in the
crossmember (engine removed for clarity,
left-hand-drive shown)21.9 Disconnect the power steering
pressure line fitting (right arrow) and the
return line fitting (left arrow). Note that the
return line fitting banjo bolt is larger than
the bolt for the pressure line fitting (left-
hand-drive shown)21.7 Subframe crossmember bolts
(arrowed)
22.6a Typical 3-Series power steering
pump adjusting bolt (arrowed) . . .
21.10b This bolt (arrowed) attaches the
steering box to the body (the nut, not
visible in this photo, is on the front side of
the steering box)
10

REF•3
REF
MOT Test Checks
Exhaust system
MStart the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering mechanism
MHave your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
MExamine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings
MStarting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
MNow grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.
MIf excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).
MCarry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.
Springs and shock absorbers
MExamine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
MIf coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
MIf leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.MThe same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
MInspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)
MRotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
Braking system
MIf possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
MExamine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
MLook for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
MSlowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance and minor repair
tool kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners:
Metric - 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17,
19, 21, 22, 24 & 26 mm
MAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx)
MTransmission drain plug key (Allen type)
MSet of feeler gauges
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert)
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool
MBrake bleed nipple spanner
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - approx 100 mm long x
6 mm dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for
anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repairlist.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you
cannot afford a socket set, even bought
piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box
spanners are a useful alternative.
The tools in this list will occasionally need
to be supplemented by tools from the Special
list:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets) (see illustration)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammer
MSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraper
MCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake/clutch bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drillsMSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) (see
illustrations)
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.
The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative
method of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a franchised
garage.
MValve spring compressor (see illustration)
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor (see illustration)
MPiston ring removal/installation tool (see
illustration)
MCylinder bore hone (see illustration)
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
(see illustration)
REF•5
REF
Tools and Working Facilities
Sockets and reversible ratchet driveSpline bit set

REF•15
REF
Fault Finding
Suspension and steering
Note:Before assuming that a problem exists, check the following
items:
a) Tyre pressures and tyre condition (also check for out-of-round or
out-of-balance tyres, and bent wheel rims).
b) Steering universal joints from the column to the steering gear (for
play or wear).
c) Front and rear suspension, and the rack-and-pinion assembly (for
loose or damaged parts).
d) Wheel bearings (wheel wobble or roughness when spun).
Vehicle pulls to one side
m mMismatched or uneven tyres (Chapter 10).
m mBroken or sagging springs (Chapter 10).
m mFront wheel or rear wheel alignment incorrect (Chapter 10).
m mFront brake problem (Chapter 9).
Abnormal or excessive tyre wear
m
mFront wheel or rear wheel alignment incorrect (Chapter 10).
m mSagging or broken springs (Chapter 10).
m mTyre out of balance (Chapter 10).
m mWorn shock absorber (Chapter 10).
m mOverloaded vehicle or unsympathetic driving style.
m mTyres not rotated regularly.
Wheel makes a “thumping” noise
m
mBlister or bump on tyre (Chapter 10).
m mFaulty shock absorber action (Chapter 10).
m mWheel bolts loose.
Shimmy, shake or vibration
m
mTyre or wheel out of balance or out of round (Chapter 10).
m mLoose, worn or incorrectly-adjusted wheel bearings (Chapter 1).
m mWorn tie-rod ends (Chapter 10).
m mWorn balljoints (Chapter 10).
m mExcessive wheel run-out (Chapter 10).
m mBlister or bump on tyre (Chapter 10).
m mWheel bolts loose.
High steering effort
m
mLack of lubrication at balljoints, tie-rod ends and steering gear
(Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).
m mLow tyre pressure(s) (Chapter 1).
m mPower steering fluid low, or steering pump drivebelt slipping,
where applicable (Chapter 10)
Poor steering self-centring
m mLack of lubrication at balljoints and tie-rod ends (Chapter 1).
m mBinding in balljoints (Chapter 10).
m mBinding in steering column (Chapter 10).
m mLack of lubricant in steering gear (Chapter 10).
m mInaccurate front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).
Abnormal noise at the front end
m
mLack of lubrication at balljoints and tie-rod ends (Chapter 1).
m mDamaged shock absorber mounting (Chapter 10).
m mWorn control arm bushings or tie-rod ends (Chapter 10).
m mLoose anti-roll bar (Chapter 10).
m mLoose wheel bolts.
m mLoose suspension mounting bolts (Chapter 10).
Wandering or poor steering stability
m
mMismatched or uneven tyres (Chapter 10).
m mLack of lubrication at balljoints and tie-rod ends (Chapter 1).
m mWorn shock absorbers (Chapter 10).
m mLoose anti-roll bar (Chapter 10).
m mBroken or sagging springs (Chapter 10).
m mFront or rear wheel alignment incorrect (Chapter 10).
Erratic steering when braking
m
mWheel bearings worn (Chapter 1).
m mBroken or sagging springs (Chapter 10).
m mLeaking wheel cylinder (rear drum brake models) or caliper
(Chapter 9).
m mWarped discs (Chapter 9).
Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or
during braking
m mLoose anti-roll bar (Chapter 10).
m mWorn shock absorbers or mountings (Chapter 10).
m mBroken or sagging springs (Chapter 10).
m mOverloaded vehicle.
Suspension bottoms
m
mOverloaded vehicle.
m mWorn shock absorbers (Chapter 10).
m mBroken or sagging springs, or incorrect springs fitted (Chapter 10).
Unevenly-worn tyres
m
mFront wheel or rear wheel alignment incorrect (Chapter 10).
m mWorn shock absorbers (Chapter 10).
m mWheel bearings worn (Chapter 10).
m mExcessive tyre or wheel run-out (Chapter 10).
m mWorn balljoints (Chapter 10).
Excessive tyre wear on outside edge
m
mTyre pressures incorrect (Chapter 1).
m mExcessive cornering speed.
m mWheel alignment incorrect (excessive toe-in) (Chapter 10).
m mSuspension components damaged (Chapter 10).
Excessive tyre wear on inside edge
m
mTyre pressures incorrect (Chapter 1).
m mWheel alignment incorrect (excessive toe-out) (Chapter 10).
m mLoose or damaged steering components (Chapter 10).
Tyre tread worn in one place
m
mTyres out of balance.
m mDamaged or buckled wheel. Inspect and renew if necessary.
m mDefective tyre (Chapter 1).
Excessive play or looseness in steering system
m
mWheel bearing(s) worn (Chapter 10.
m mTie-rod end loose or worn (Chapter 10).
m mSteering gear mountings loose (Chapter 10).
Rattling or clicking noise in steering gear
m
mInsufficient or incorrect lubricant in rack-and-pinion assembly
(Chapter 10).
m mSteering gear mountings loose (Chapter 10).

REF•18Automotive chemicals and lubricants
A number of automotive chemicals and
lubricants are available for use during vehicle
maintenance and repair. They include a wide
variety of products ranging from cleaning
solvents and degreasers to lubricants and
protective sprays for rubber, plastic and
vinyl.
Cleaners
Carburettor cleaner and choke cleaner
is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and
carbon. Most carburettor cleaners leave a
dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or
gum up. Because of this film, it is not
recommended for use on electrical
components.
Brake system cleaneris used to remove
grease and brake fluid from the brake system,
where clean surfaces are absolutely
necessary. It leaves no residue, and often
eliminates brake squeal caused by
contaminants.
Electrical cleaner removes oxidation,
corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical
contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also
be used to clean spark plugs, carburettor jets,
voltage regulators and other parts where an
oil-free surface is desired.
Moisture dispersantsremove water and
moisture from electrical components such as
alternators, voltage regulators, electrical
connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-
conductive and non-corrosive.
Degreasersare heavy-duty solvents used
to remove grease from the outside of the
engine and from chassis components. They
can be sprayed or brushed on, and are usually
rinsed off with water.
Lubricants
Engine oilis the lubricant formulated for
use in engines. It normally contains a wide
variety of additives to prevent corrosion and
reduce foaming and wear. Engine oil comes in
various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to
60. The recommended weight of the oil
depends on the season, temperature and the
demands on the engine. Light oil is used in
cold climates and under light load conditions.
Heavy oil is used in hot climates, and where
high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity
(multigrade) oils are designed to have
characteristics of both light and heavy oils,
and are available in a number of weights from
5W-20 to 20W-50.
Gear oilis designed to be used in
differentials, manual transmissions and other
areas where high-temperature lubrication is
required.
Chassis and wheel bearing greaseis a
heavy grease used where increased loads and
friction are encountered, such as for wheel
bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal
joints.High-temperature wheel bearing grease
is designed to withstand the extreme
temperatures encountered by wheel bearings
in disc brake-equipped vehicles. It usually
contains molybdenum disulphide (moly),
which is a dry-type lubricant.
White greaseis a heavy grease for metal-
to-metal applications where water is a
problem. White grease stays soft at both low
and high temperatures, and will not wash off
or dilute in the presence of water.
Assembly lubeis a special extreme-
pressure lubricant, usually containing moly,
used to lubricate high-load parts (such as
main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for
initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly
lube lubricates the parts without being
squeezed out or washed away until the engine
oiling system begins to function.
Silicone lubricants are used to protect
rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts.
Graphite lubricantsare used where oils
cannot be used due to contamination
problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite
will lubricate metal parts while remaining
uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It
is electrically conductive, and will not foul
electrical contacts in locks such as the
ignition switch.
Penetrating oilsloosen and lubricate
frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and
prevent future rusting or freezing.
Heat-sink greaseis a special electrically
non-conductive grease that is used for
mounting electronic ignition modules where it
is essential that heat is transferred away from
the module.
Sealants
RTV sealantis one of the most widely-
used gasket compounds. Made from silicone,
RTV is air-curing; it seals, bonds, waterproofs,
fills surface irregularities, remains flexible,
doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove,
and is used as a supplementary sealer with
almost all low- and medium-temperature
gaskets.
Anaerobic sealantis much like RTV in that
it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form
gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent-
resistant, and fills surface imperfections. The
difference between an anaerobic sealant and
an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV
cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic
sealant cures only in the absence of air. This
means that an anaerobic sealant cures only
after the assembly of parts, sealing them
together.
Thread and pipe sealant is used for
sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and
vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon
compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on
liquid and as a wrap-around tape.
Chemicals
Anti-seize compoundprevents seizing,
chafing, cold welding, rust and corrosion in
fasteners. High-temperature anti-seize,
usually made with copper and graphite
lubricants, is used for exhaust system and
exhaust manifold bolts.
Anaerobic locking compoundsare used
to keep fasteners from vibrating or working
loose, and cure only after installation, in the
absence of air. Medium-strength locking
compound is used for small nuts, bolts and
screws that may be removed later. High-
strength locking compound is for large nuts,
bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a
regular basis.
Oil additivesrange from viscosity index
improvers to chemical treatments that claim
to reduce internal engine friction. It should be
noted that most oil manufacturers caution
against using additives with their oils.
Fuel additivesperform several functions,
depending on their chemical make-up. They
usually contain solvents that help dissolve
gum and varnish that build up on carburettor,
fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve
to break down carbon deposits that form on
the inside surfaces of the combustion
chambers. Some additives contain upper
cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings,
and others contain chemicals to remove
condensation from the fuel tank.
Miscellaneous
Brake fluidis specially-formulated
hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and
pressure encountered in brake systems. It is
poisonous and inflammable. Care must be
taken so this fluid does not come in contact
with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened
container should always be resealed, to
prevent contamination by water or dirt. Brake
fluid absorbs moisture from the air, if left in an
unsealed container.
Weatherstrip adhesiveis used to bond
weatherstripping around doors, windows and
boot lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim
pieces.
Undersealis a petroleum-based, tar-like
substance that is designed to protect metal
surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from
corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening
agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle.
Waxes and polishesare used to help
protect painted and plated surfaces from the
weather. Different types of paint may require
the use of different types of wax and polish.
Some polishes utilise a chemical or abrasive
cleaner to help remove the top layer of
oxidised (dull) paint on older vehicles. In
recent years, many non-wax polishes
containing a wide variety of chemicals such as
polymers and silicones have been introduced.
These non-wax polishes are usually easier to
apply, and last longer than conventional
waxes and polishes.

REF•21
REF
Glossary of Technical Terms
CamshaftA rotating shaft on which a series
of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.
The camshaft may be driven by gears, by
sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a
belt.
CanisterA container in an evaporative
emission control system; contains activated
charcoal granules to trap vapours from the
fuel system.
CarburettorA device which mixes fuel with
air in the proper proportions to provide a
desired power output from a spark ignition
internal combustion engine.
CastellatedResembling the parapets along
the top of a castle wall. For example, a
castellated balljoint stud nut.
CastorIn wheel alignment, the backward or
forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is
positive when the steering axis is inclined
rearward at the top.Catalytic converterA silencer-like device in
the exhaust system which converts certain
pollutants in the exhaust gases into less
harmful substances.
CirclipA ring-shaped clip used to prevent
endwise movement of cylindrical parts and
shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a
groove in a housing; an external circlip fits into
a groove on the outside of a cylindrical piece
such as a shaft.
ClearanceThe amount of space between
two parts. For example, between a piston and
a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,
etc.
Coil springA spiral of elastic steel found in
various sizes throughout a vehicle, for
example as a springing medium in the
suspension and in the valve train.
CompressionReduction in volume, and
increase in pressure and temperature, of a
gas, caused by squeezing it into a smaller
space.
Compression ratioThe relationship between
cylinder volume when the piston is at top
dead centre and cylinder volume when the
piston is at bottom dead centre.
Constant velocity (CV) jointA type of
universal joint that cancels out vibrations
caused by driving power being transmitted
through an angle.
Core plugA disc or cup-shaped metal device
inserted in a hole in a casting through which
core was removed when the casting was
formed. Also known as a freeze plug or
expansion plug.
CrankcaseThe lower part of the engine
block in which the crankshaft rotates.
CrankshaftThe main rotating member, or
shaft, running the length of the crankcase,
with offset “throws” to which the connecting
rods are attached.Crocodile clipSee Alligator clip
DDiagnostic codeCode numbers obtained by
accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine
management computer. This code can be
used to determine the area in the system
where a malfunction may be located.
Disc brakeA brake design incorporating a
rotating disc onto which brake pads are
squeezed. The resulting friction converts the
energy of a moving vehicle into heat.
Double-overhead cam (DOHC)An engine
that uses two overhead camshafts, usually
one for the intake valves and one for the
exhaust valves.
Drivebelt(s)The belt(s) used to drive
accessories such as the alternator, water
pump, power steering pump, air conditioning
compressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.
DriveshaftAny shaft used to transmit
motion. Commonly used when referring to the
axleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.
Drum brakeA type of brake using a drum-
shaped metal cylinder attached to the inner
surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is
pressed, curved brake shoes with friction
linings press against the inside of the drum to
slow or stop the vehicle.
Castellated nut
Catalytic converter
Crankshaft assembly
Carburettor
Canister
Drum brake assembly
Accessory drivebelts
Driveshaft

REF•25
REF
Index
Note: References throughout this index relate to Chapter•page number
A
ABS - 9•2
Accelerator cable - 4•9
Acknowledgements - 0•4
Aerial - 12•4
Air bags - 0•5
Air cleaner - 4•8
Air conditioning system - 3•2, 3•7, 3•8,
3•9, 3•10
Air filter - 1•20
Air gap - 5•7
Air intake system - 4•2, 4•14
Airflow meter - 4•15, 6•4
Alternator - 5•10
Anti-lock Braking system (ABS) - 9•2
Anti-roll bar - 10•4, 10•9
Anti-theft audio system - 0•7
Antifreeze - 1•3, 1-8, 3•2
Asbestos - 0•5
ATF - 1•3, 1•13, 1•23
Automatic choke - 4•13
Automatic transmission- 7B•1et seq
Automatic transmission fault finding -
7B•4, REF•13
Automatic transmission fluid - 1•3, 1•13,
1•23
B
Backfire - REF•11
Balljoints - 10•7
Battery - 0•5, 1•16, 5•2
Battery fault - REF•11
Big-end bearings - 2B•17, 2B•21
Bleeding brakes - 9•14
Bleeding clutch - 8•4
Bleeding power steering - 10•16Block - 2B•14, 2B•15
Blower motor - 3•7
Body corrosion - REF•4
Body electrical systems- 12•1et seq
Bodywork and fittings- 11•1et seq
Bonnet - 11•4
Boot lid - 11•6
Boots - 8•9, 10•13
Brake fluid - 1•3, 1•9
Brake lines and hoses - 1•22, 9•13
Braking system- 1•22, 9•1et seq,REF•1,
REF•2, REF•3
Braking system fault finding - REF•14
Bulbs - 12•6
Bumpers - 11•6
Burning - 0•5
C
Cables - 4•9, 5•2, 7B•3, 9•12
Calipers - 9•4
Cam followers - 2B•11
Camshaft - 2A•12, 2B•11
Carburettor - 4•10, 4•11
Carpets - 11•2
Catalytic converter - 4•20, 6•6
Central locking - 12•8
Charging - 1•17, 5•9
Chemicals - REF•18
Choke - 4•13
Clutch and driveline- 8•1et seq
Clutch fault finding - REF•12
Clutch fluid - 1•3, 1•9
CO level adjustment - 1•15, REF•4
Coil - 5•5
Coil springs - 10•7, 10•9
Cold start injectors - 4•17, 4•18
Compression check - 2B•4Compressor - 3•8
Condenser - 3•9
Connecting rods -2B•12, 2B•16, 2B•21
Constant velocity (CV) joint - 8•2, 8•8, 8•9
Continuity check - 12•2
Control arm - 10•4, 10•5
Conversion factors - REF•17
Coolant - 1•3, 1•8
Coolant pump - 3•5
Coolant temperature sender unit - 3•6
Coolant temperature sensor - 6•2
Cooling fan - 3•4
Cooling, heating and air conditioning
systems- 1•21, 1•24, 3•1et seq
Cooling system fault finding - REF•12
Crankshaft - 2A•12, 2A•13, 2A•19, 2B•13,
2B•17, 2B•19, 2B•20
Cruise control - 12•3, 12•8
Crushing - 0•5
Cushion - 11•9
CV joints - 8•2, 8•8, 8•9
Cylinder head - 2A•13, 2B•7, 2B•10, 2B•12
Cylinder honing - 2B•15
D
Dents in bodywork - 11•2
Differential (final drive) - 8•2, 8•10, 8•11
Differential oil -1•3, 1•19, 1•26
Direction indicators - 12•2, 12•3
Discs - 1•22, 9•5
Distributor - 1•18, 5•4
Door - 11•6, 11•8, REF•2
Drivebelts - 1•14
Driveplate - 2A•18
Driveshafts - 1•22, 8•2, 8•9
Drums - 1•23