ball joint BMW 3 SERIES 1986 E30 Workshop Manual

no cause for concern. Make sure that any fluid
noted is from the struts/shocks, and not from
any other source. If leakage is noted, renew
the struts or shock absorbers in axle pairs (or
as a full set).
7Check the struts/shock absorbers to be
sure that they are securely mounted and
undamaged. Check the upper mountings for
damage and wear. If damage or wear is
noted, renew the struts or shock absorbers.
8If the struts or shock absorbers must be
renewed, refer to Chapter 10 for the
procedure. Always renew both units on the
same axle, or the safety of the vehicle may be
compromised. If possible, renew all four as a
set.
Steering and suspension check
9Inspect the steering system components
for damage and distortion. Look for leaks and
damaged seals, boots and fittings.
10Clean the lower end of the steering
knuckle. Have an assistant grasp the lower
edge of the tyre and move the wheel in and
out, while you look for movement at the
steering knuckle-to-axle arm balljoints.
Inspect the balljoint boots for tears (see
illustration). If there is any movement, or the
boots are torn or leaking, the balljoint(s) must
be renewed.
11Grasp each front tyre at the front and rear
edges, push in at the front, pull out at the rear
and feel for play in the steering linkage. If any
free play is noted, check the steering gear
mountings and the track rod balljoints for
looseness. If the steering gear mountings are
loose, tighten them. If the track rods are
loose, the balljoints may be worn (check to
make sure the nuts are tight). Additional
steering and suspension system information
can be found in Chapter 10.
25 Driveshaft gaiter check
1
1The driveshaft gaiters are very important
because they prevent dirt, water and foreign
material from entering and damaging the
constant velocity (CV) joints. External oil and
grease contamination can cause the gaitermaterial to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a
good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and
water.
2Inspect the gaiters for tears and cracks, as
well as for loose clamps (see illustration). If
there is any evidence of cracks or leaking
lubricant, the gaiter must be renewed (see
Chapter 8).
26 Brake system check
2
Warning: Dust produced by lining
wear and deposited on brake
components may contain
asbestos, which is hazardous to
your health. Do not blow it out with
compressed air, and don’t inhale it! Do not
use petroleum-based solvents to remove
the dust. Brake system cleaner or
methylated spirit should be used to flush
the dust into a drain pan. After the brake
components are wiped with a damp rag,
dispose of the contaminated rag(s) and the
drain pan contents into a covered and
labelled container. Try to use asbestos-
free new parts whenever possible.
Note:In addition to the specified intervals, the
brake system should be inspected each time
the wheels are removed or a malfunction is
indicated. Because of the obvious safety con-
siderations, the following brake system checks
are some of the most important maintenance
procedures you can perform on your vehicle.
Symptoms of brake system
problems
1The disc brakes have built-in electrical wear
indicators which cause a warning light on the
dash to come on when they’re worn to the
renewal point. When the light comes on,
renew the pads immediately, or expensive
damage to the brake discs could result.
2Any of the following symptoms could
indicate a potential brake system defect:
a) Vehicle pulls to one side when the brake
pedal is depressed
b) Brakes make squealing or dragging noises
when applied
c) Brake pedal travel excessived) Brake pedal pulsates (normal if ABS is
working)
e) Brake fluid leaks (usually on the inner side
of the tyre or wheel)
3If any of these conditions are noted, inspect
the brake system immediately.
Brake lines and hoses
Note: Steel brake pipes are used throughout
the brake system, with the exception of
flexible, reinforced hoses at the front wheels
and as connectors at the rear axle. Periodic
inspection of all these lines is very important.
4Park the vehicle on level ground, and
switch off the engine. Remove the wheel
covers. Loosen, but do not remove, the bolts
on all four wheels.
5Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
6Remove the wheels (see “Jacking and
towing” at the front of this book, or refer to
your owner’s handbook, if necessary).
7Check all brake lines and hoses for cracks,
chafing of the outer cover, leaks, blisters, and
distortion. Check the brake hoses at front and
rear of the vehicle for softening, cracks,
bulging, or wear from rubbing on other
components. Check all threaded fittings for
leaks, and make sure the brake hose
mounting bolts and clips are secure.
8If leaks or damage are discovered, they
must be repaired immediately. Refer to
Chapter 9 for detailed brake system repair
procedures.
Disc brakes
9If it hasn’t already been done, raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the front wheels.
10The disc brake calipers, containing the
pads, are now visible. Each caliper has an
outer and an inner pad - all pads should be
checked.
11Note the pad thickness by looking
through the inspection hole in the caliper (see
illustration). If the lining material is 2.0 mm
thick or less, or if it is tapered from end to
end, the pads should be renewed (see
Chapter 9). Keep in mind that the lining
1•22
26.11 Look through the caliper inspection
window to inspect the brake pads - the
pad lining which rubs against the disc can
also be inspected by looking through each
end of the caliper25.2 Gently probe the driveshaft boots to
check for cracks24.10 Inspect the balljoint boots for tears
(arrowed)
Every 12 000 miles

10
General
Power steering fluid type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Tyres
Tyre sizes
3-Series, E30
316 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/70x14
316i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/70x14, 195/65x14
318i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/70x14
320i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x14
325i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x14, 200/60x356, 205/55x15
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”)
518 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175x14
518i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175x14
525i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175x14, 195/70x14
528i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/70x14
535i and M535i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220/55x390
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”)
518i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x15
520i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x15, 225/60x15
525i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195/65x15, 205/65x15, 225/65x15
530i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205/65x15, 225/60x15
535i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225/60x15, 240/45x415
Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications
Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems
Balljoints - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Control arm (3-Series) - inspection, removal and refitting,
and bush renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Control and thrust arms (5-Series) - inspection, removal and
refitting, and bush renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Front hub and wheel bearing assembly - removal and refitting . . . . 8
Front strut assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Power steering system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Rack-and-pinion steering gear (3-Series) - removal and refitting . . . 19
Rear anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Rear coil springs (3-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Rear shock absorbers (3-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 9
Rear shock absorber/coil spring assembly (5-Series) - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Rear trailing arms (3-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Rear trailing arms (5-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Rear wheel bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Steering box (5-Series) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Steering gear boots (3-Series) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Steering linkage (5-Series) - inspection, removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Steering system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Strut or shock absorber/coil spring - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Suspension and steering checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Track rod ends - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Tyre rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Wheel alignment - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Wheels and tyres - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
10•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents

Torque wrench settingsNm
Front suspension
Strut damper rod nut
Rod with external hexagon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Rod with internal hexagon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Strut cartridge threaded collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Strut upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Front control arm (3-Series)
Control arm-to-steering knuckle balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . 64
Control arm-to-subframe balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Control arm bush bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Lower control arm (5-Series)
Control arm-to-steering arm balljoint stud nut . . . . . . . . . 85
Control arm pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Thrust arm (5-Series)
Thrust arm-to-steering arm balljoint stud nut . . . . . . . . . . 85
Thrust arm through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Front hub (wheel bearing) nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
Steering arm-to-strut bolts (5-Series) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Anti-roll bar (3-Series)
Anti-roll bar-to-connecting link bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Anti-roll bar mounting brackets-to-subframe . . . . . . . . . . 22
Connecting link-to-bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Connecting link bracket-to-control arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Anti-roll bar (5-Series)
Anti-roll bar mounting brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Anti-roll bar link-to-strut housing locknut
Yellow chrome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
White chrome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
10•2 Suspension and steering systems
Torque wrench settingsNm
Rear suspension
Rear shock absorber (3-Series)
Shock absorber-to-upper mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . 12 to 15
Shock absorber-to-trailing arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 85
Rear shock absorber (5-Series)
Lower mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 to 142
Upper mounting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 24
Upper spring mounting-to-shock absorber locknut . . . . . 22 to 24
Trailing arms (3-Series)
Trailing arm-to-lower mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 85
Trailing arm-to-anti-roll bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 23
Trailing arms (5-Series)
Trailing arm-to-rear axle carrier (rubber bush
through-bolt and nut) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Trailing arm-to-axle carrier connecting link (1983-on) . . . 126
Rear wheel bearing drive flange axle nut (5-Series)
M22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 to 210
M27 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 to 260
Steering system
Steering wheel retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Steering column universal joint pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Steering gear-to-subframe mounting bolts (3-Series) . . . . . 41
Steering box-to-front suspension subframe bolts (5-Series) 42
Track rod end-to-steering arm nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Track rod end clamping bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Pitman arm-to-steering box (5-Series) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Steering linkage balljoints (all) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
1 General information
Warning: Whenever any of the
suspension or steering fasteners
are loosened or removed, they
must be inspected and if
necessary, new ones fitted, of the same
part number or of original-equipment
quality and design. Torque specifications
must be followed for proper reassembly
and component retention. Never attempt
to heat, straighten or weld any suspension
or steering component. Any bent or
damaged parts must be renewed.
The front suspension (see illustrations)is a
MacPherson strut design. The struts are
secured at the upper ends to reinforced areas
at the top of the wheel arches, and at the
lower ends to the steering arms/control arms.
An anti-roll bar is attached to the control arms
via connecting links, and to the suspension
subframe (3-Series models) or the underbody
(5-Series models).
The independent rear suspension system
on 3-Series models (see illustration)features
coil springs and telescopic shock absorbers.
The upper ends of the shock absorbers are
attached to the body; the lower ends are
connected to trailing arms. An anti-roll bar is
attached to the trailing arms via links, and to
the body with clamps.
The independent rear suspension system on
5-Series models (see illustration)uses coil-over shock absorber units instead of separate
shock absorbers and coil springs. The upper
ends are attached to the body; the lower ends
are connected to the trailing arms. The rear
suspension of 5-Series models is otherwise
similar to that of 3-Series models: two trailing
arms connected by an anti-roll bar.
The steering system consists of the
steering wheel, a steering column, a universal
joint shaft, the steering gear, the powersteering pump (where fitted) and the steering
linkage, which connects the steering gear to
the steering arms. On 3-Series models, a
rack-and-pinion steering gear is attached
directly to the steering arms via the track rods
and track rod ends. On 5-Series models, a
recirculating-ball steering box is connected to
the steering arms via a Pitman arm, a centre
track rod, the outer track rods and the track
rod ends.
1.1a Front suspension and steering components (3-Series models)
1 Subframe 3 Anti-roll bar link 5 Strut 7 Steering gear
2 Anti-roll bar 4 Control arm 6 Track rod end

2 Front anti-roll bar-
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands.
2If you’re removing or renewing the anti-roll
bar itself, or disconnecting the bar to renew
the strut assembly on a 3-Series model,
disconnect it from the anti-roll bar links (see
illustrations). If you’re renewing the strut
assembly on a 5-Series model, disconnect the
anti-roll bar link from the strut housing.
3On 3-Series models, disconnect the left
control arm rubber bush from the underbody
(see Section 3).
4Remove the bolts from the anti-roll bar
brackets which attach the anti-roll bar to the
subframe (see illustration).
5Remove the anti-roll bar from the vehicle.
Where necessary, separate the anti-roll bar
from the strut bar bracket.
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Be sure to tighten all nuts and
bolts to the torques listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
3 Control arm (3-Series)-
inspection, removal and
refitting, and bush renewal
3
Inspection
1Raise the front end of the vehicle, and
support it securely on axle stands.
2Grip the top and bottom of each balljoint
with a large pair of water pump (“parrot jaw”)
pliers, and squeeze to check for free play.
Alternatively, insert a lever or large
screwdriver between the control arm and the
subframe or strut housing. If there’s any free
play, renew the control arm (the balljoints
can’t be renewed separately).
3Inspect the rubber bush. If it’s cracked, dry,
torn or otherwise deteriorated, renew it (see
below).
Bush renewal
Note:Rubber bushes should always be
renewed in pairs. Make sure both new bushes
have the same markings (indicating they’re
manufactured by the same firm).
4Remove the two bolts (see illustration)which
attach the bush bracket to the underbody.
5Using a puller, remove the bracket andbush from the end of the control arm. If the
puller slips on the end of the control arm,
centre-punch the control arm to give the
puller bolt a place to seat.
6Note the orientation of the old bush. This is
exactly how the new bush should be
orientated when it’s fitted. Press the old
rubber bush out of the bracket, or have it
pressed out by an engineering works.
7Coat the end of the control arm with BMW’s
special lubricant (Part No. 81 22 9 407 284),
and press the new bush and bracket onto the
arm - or have it pressed on at an engineering
works - all the way to the stop.
Caution: Don’t try to use any
other type of lubricant;
30 minutes after it’s applied, this
lubricant loses its properties and
the bush is permanently located in its
proper position. Make sure the new bush
is pressed on so it’s orientated exactly the
same way as the old bush.
8Refit the bracket bolts and tighten them to
the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations.
9Lower the vehicle, and leave it at rest for at
least 30 minutes (this will give the special
lubricant time to dry).
Control arm removal and
refitting
Note:If either balljoint is worn or damaged,
the only way to renew it is to renew the control
arm. If you’re fitting a new control arm, a new
bush must also be fitted. The old bush can’t
be removed from the old control arm and re-
used in the new control arm.
10Loosen but do not remove the wheel
bolts, raise the front of the vehicle and
support it on axle stands. Remove the wheel
bolts and the front wheel.
11Remove the two bolts which attach the
rubber bush bracket to the underbody (see
illustration 3.4).
12Remove the nut which secures the control
arm balljoint to the subframe, and remove the
balljoint stud from the subframe. Note:It may
be necessary to use a balljoint separator to
separate the balljoint from the subframe (see
illustration), but take care not to damage the
10•4 Suspension and steering systems
3.12 Remove the self-locking nut from the
balljoint stud protruding through the top of
the subframe (not shown in this photo, but
it’s directly above the balljoint) and
separate the balljoint from the subframe.
Try not to damage the dust boot
3.4 Remove the two bolts (arrowed)
securing the bush bracket to the
underbody
2.4 Remove the bolts (arrowed) from the
anti-roll bar brackets to detach the anti-
roll bar from the subframe (3-Series model
shown, 5-series similar)2.2b On 5-Series models, remove the nut
(arrowed) securing the anti-roll bar to the
connecting link (left side shown, right side
similar)2.2a On 3-Series models, remove the nut
(upper arrow) securing the anti-roll bar to
the upper end of the connecting link (left
side shown, right side similar). If a new
control arm is being fitted, remove the
lower nut (lower arrow) and disconnect the
link assembly and bracket from the arm

dust boot. If the boot does become damaged
(and you’re refitting the same control arm and
balljoint), be sure to fit a new boot.
13Unscrew the nut which secures the outer
control arm balljoint to the steering knuckle
(see illustration)and detach the balljoint stud
from the knuckle (see illustration). Ideally you
should use a purpose-made balljoint
separator tool for this job. Using a hammer is
OK if you’re going to fit new parts anyway, but
is not recommended if you’re planning to re-
use parts.
14Remove the control arm.15If you’re renewing the control arm, you’ll
have to fit a new bush (see above). The old
bush can’t be removed re-used in another
control arm.
16Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to use new self-locking nuts on the balljoint
studs and tighten them, and the bush bracket
bolts, to the torques listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
17When you’re finished, have the front
wheel alignment checked by a dealer service
department or qualified garage.
4 Control and thrust arms
(5-Series)- inspection, removal
and refitting and bush renewal
3
Inspection
1Inspect the thrust arm rubber bush (see
illustration 4.6b). If the bush is cracked, torn
or otherwise deteriorated, renew it. The
control arm bush can’t be inspected until the
control arm is removed.
2Raise the vehicle and place it securely on
axle stands.
3To inspect the control arm and thrust arm
balljoints for wear, grip the top and bottom of
each balljoint with a large pair of water pump
(“parrot jaw”) pliers, and try to squeeze them.
Alternatively, use a lever or large screwdriver
to move them up and down. If there’s any free
play, renew the control arm or thrust arm. The
balljoints can’t be renewed separately.
Removal
Note:If a balljoint is worn or damaged, the
only way to renew it is to renew the control
arm or thrust arm. If you’re fitting a new
control arm or thrust arm, a new bush must
also be fitted. The old bush can’t be removed
from the old control arm or thrust arm and re-
used in the new arm.
4Loosen the wheel bolts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
5If you’re removing the control arm, remove
the three bolts from the steering arm (see
illustration)and separate the strut assembly
from the arm.
6Remove the nut and the through-bolt that
secure the control arm or thrust arm rear
mounting (see illustrations).
7Remove the nut from the balljoint (see
illustration). Support the steering arm and
separate the balljoint from the steering arm
(see illustrations). Ideally you should use a
purpose-made balljoint separator tool for this
job. Using a hammer is OK if you’re going to
fit new parts anyway, but is not recommended
if you’re planning to re-use parts.
Suspension and steering systems 10•5
4.5 If you’re removing the control arm,
remove the three bolts (arrowed) from the
steering arm, and separate the strut
assembly from the arm
3.13b . . . give the steering knuckle a few
sharp knocks with a hammer to release
the balljoint stud from the strut housing,
and remove the control arm3.13a Remove the self-locking nut from
the balljoint stud which attaches the outer
end of the control arm to the steering
knuckle. If you don’t have a balljoint
separator tool . . .
4.7b You can separate the thrust arm
balljoint from the steering arm with a
puller . . .
4.6a If you’re removing the control arm,
remove the self-locking nut and the
through-bolt (arrowed) that attach the
inner end of the arm to the vehicle
4.7a Remove the self-locking nut (control
arm nut, left arrow; thrust arm nut, right
arrow) from the balljoint, then support the
steering arm, and press or knock the
balljoint out of the steering arm
4.6b If you’re removing the thrust arm,
remove the nut and bolt (arrowed) that
secure the rear end of the arm
10

Bush inspection and renewal
8If the bush is cracked, torn or otherwise
deteriorated, take the arm to a BMW dealer
service department or an engineering works,
and have it pressed out and a new bush
pressed in. Bushes should always be renewed
in pairs (a new bush should be fitted in each
arm, and both bushes should have the same
manufacturer markings). If you’re fitting a new
thrust arm bush, make sure it’s correctly
orientated (see illustration).
Refitting
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to use new self-locking nuts on the balljoint
stud nut and the through-bolt. Don’t forget to
refit the washers on both sides of the through-
bolt. If you’re refitting the control arm, be sure
to use thread-locking compound on the
steering arm mounting bolts. Don’t tighten the
through-bolt to the final torque yet. Note:
Thrust arms are marked “L” for the left side,
and “R” for the right side. Be sure to check the
marking before fitting a new arm.
10Support the control arm with a trolley
jack, and raise it to simulate normal ride
height, then tighten the through-bolt to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.Refit the wheel and tighten the wheel bolts to
the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifi-
cations.
11Have the front end alignment checked at
a dealer service department or qualified
garage.
5 Front strut assembly-
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Note:Although strut assemblies don’t always
fail or wear out simultaneously, renew both left
and right struts at the same time, to prevent
handling peculiarities or abnormal ride quality.
1Loosen but do not remove the front wheel
bolts.
2Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on axle stands.
3Remove the front wheel.
4Detach all brake hoses and electrical wires
attached to the strut housing.
5Disconnect the electrical connections for
the ABS system, if applicable.
6If you’re removing the left strut, disconnectthe electrical connector for the brake pad
wear sensor.
7Remove the bolt securing the ABS wheel
sensor, if applicable. Remove the brake disc
(see Chapter 9).
8Remove the brake splash shield (see
illustration).
9On 3-Series models, disconnect the anti-
roll bar from its connecting link (see Sec-
tion 2). On 5-Series models, disconnect the
anti-roll bar link from the strut housing (see
Section 2).
10On 3-Series models, disconnect the
control arm balljoint from the steering knuckle
(see Section 3) and the track rod end from the
steering arm (see Section 17).
11On 5-Series models, disconnect the bolts
that attach the steering arm to the strut
housing (see illustration 4.5).
12Pull out the lower end of the strut housing
far enough to clear the end of the control arm
(3-Series) or the steering arm (5-Series).
13Support the weight of the strut and
remove the three mounting nuts at the top of
the strut, located inside the engine
compartment (see illustration)and remove
the strut.
14Remove the strut assembly. If a new
shock absorber (strut cartridge) is being fitted,
see Section 6.
Refitting
15Refitting is the reverse of removal. On
3-Series models, be sure to use new self-
locking nuts on the control arm balljoint, the
track rod end balljoint and the strut upper
mountings. On 5-Series models, make sure
the tang in the steering arm is mated with the
notch in the strut housing (see illustration).
BMW recommends using a thread-locking
compound on the steering arm mounting
bolts. On all models, tighten the fasteners to
the torques listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations.
16When you’re done, drive the vehicle to a
dealer service department or qualified garage
and have the wheel alignment checked, and if
necessary, adjusted.
10•6 Suspension and steering systems
5.15 On 5-Series models, make sure the
tang in the steering arm is mated with the
notch in the strut housing (arrowed)5.13 Support the weight of the strut and
remove the three mounting nuts (arrowed)
at the top of the strut (5-Series shown,
3-Series similar)5.8 To remove the brake splash shield,
remove these three bolts (arrowed)
4.8 Correct orientation of the bush for the
5-Series thrust arm. The arrow on the
rubber bush is aligned with the mark on
the arm, and the centre of the bush is
concentric with the bore4.7c . . . but you may have to use a
hammer to knock the control arm balljoint
stud loose from the steering arm, because
there’s no room to use a puller. A purpose-
made balljoint separator tool would be
better

6 Strut or shock absorber/coil
spring- renewal
4
Note:This section applies to all front strut
assemblies and, on 5-Series models, the rear
coil-over shock absorber assemblies.
1If the struts, shock absorbers or coil springs
exhibit the telltale signs of wear (leaking fluid,
loss of damping capability, chipped, sagging
or cracked coil springs) explore all options
before beginning any work. Strut or shock
absorber assemblies complete with springs
may be available on an exchange basis, which
eliminates much time and work. Whichever
route you choose to take, check on the cost
and availability of parts before dismantling the
vehicle.
Warning: Dismantling a strut or
coil-over shock absorber
assembly is a potentially
dangerous undertaking, and
utmost attention must be directed to the
job, or serious injury may result. Use only a
high-quality spring compressor, and
carefully follow the manufacturer’s
instructions supplied with the tool. After
removing the coil spring from the strut
assembly, set it aside in a safe, isolated
area.
2Remove the strut or shock absorber
assembly (see Section 5 or 11). Mount the
assembly in a vice. Line the vice jaws with
wood or rags to prevent damage to the unit,
and don’t tighten the vice excessively.
3Following the tool manufacturer’s
instructions, fit the spring compressor (these
can be obtained at most car accessory shops,
or it may be possible to hire one) on the
spring, and compress it sufficiently to relieve
all pressure from the suspension support (see
illustration). This can be verified by wiggling
the spring.
4Prise the protective cap off the damper rod
self-locking nut. Loosen the nut (see
illustration)with a spanner while holding thedamper rod stationary with another spanner
or an Allen key.
5Remove the nut, the strut bearing, the
insulator and the large washer. Check the
bearing for smooth operation. If it doesn’t turn
smoothly, renew it. Check the rubber insulator
for cracking and general deterioration. If there
is any separation of the rubber, renew the
insulator.
6Lift off the spring retainer and the rubber
ring at the top of the spring. Check the rubber
ring for cracking and hardness. Renew it if
necessary.
7Carefully lift the compressed spring from
the assembly and set it in a safe place, such
as a steel cabinet.
Warning: Never place your head
near the end of the spring!
8Slide the protective tube and rubber
bumper off the damper rod. If either is
damaged or worn, renew it.
9If you’re working on a front strut, loosen
and remove the threaded collar (see
illustration)and pull the old strut cartridge
from the strut housing. Pour the old oil from
the strut housing.
10On all struts except gas-charged units, fill
the strut housing with 20 to 25 cc (3-Series),
42 to 47 cc (518i and 520i 5-Series models) or
20 to 25 cc (all other 5-Series models) ofengine oil (the oil helps cool the shock
absorber by transferring heat to the strut
housing). Note:It doesn’t matter what
viscosity or grade of engine oil is used.
11Refitting is otherwise the reverse of
removal. Tighten the threaded collar to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Make sure you align the end of the coil spring
with the shoulder of the rubber ring and with
the spring retainer (see illustration). Tighten
the damper rod nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
12Refit the strut or shock absorber
assembly (see Section 5 or 11).
7 Balljoints- check and renewal
3
Check
Note:On 3-Series models, there are two
balljoints on each control arm - one between
the middle of the arm and the subframe, and
the other between the outer end of the arm
and the steering knuckle. On 5-Series models,
there are balljoints on the outer ends of the
control arm and the thrust arm.
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
2Visually inspect the rubber boot between
the balljoint and the subframe or steering
knuckle, etc for cuts, tears or leaking grease.
If you note any of these conditions, renew the
control arm or thrust arm - the balljoints are
not available separately.
3Place a large lever under the balljoint, and
try to push the balljoint up. Next, position the
lever between the arm and the subframe or
between the arm and steering knuckle. If you
can see or feel any movement during either
check, a worn balljoint is indicated.
4Have an assistant grasp the tyre at the top
and bottom, and shake the top of the tyre with
an in-and-out motion. Touch the balljoint stud
nut. If any looseness is felt, suspect a worn
balljoint stud or a widened hole in the
subframe or steering knuckle. If the latter
Suspension and steering systems 10•7
6.4 Prise the protective cap off the
damper rod nut, and remove the large nut
(arrowed) - to prevent the damper rod from
turning, place an Allen key in the end of
the shaft6.3 Following the tool manufacturer’s
instructions, fit the spring compressor to
the spring, and compress it sufficiently to
relieve all pressure from the suspension
support
6.11 Make sure you align the end of the
coil spring with the shoulder of the rubber
ring, and with the spring retainer
6.9 Loosen and remove the threaded
collar, and pull the old strut cartridge from
the strut housing - on all struts except
gas-charged units, pour the old oil from
the strut housing. (Spring should have
been removed first!)
10

problem exists, a new subframe or steering
arm (5-Series) or steering knuckle (3-Series),
which is integral with the strut housing, should
be fitted as well as the new balljoint.
Renewal
Note: None of these balljoints can be serviced
or renewed individually. If one of them is worn,
a complete new arm must be fitted.
8 Front hub and wheel bearing
assembly-
removal and refitting
3
Note:Removing the front hub/bearing
assembly renders it unfit for re-use. A new
assembly will be required for refitting.
Removal
1Loosen the wheel bolts, then raise the front
of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle
stands. Remove the wheel bolts and the
wheel.
2Using a hammer and chisel, remove the
dust cap from the centre of the wheel hub
(see illustration).
3Unstake the hub nut (see illustration).
4Refit the wheel and lower the vehicle to the
ground. Loosen, but do not remove, the hub
nut.
Warning: Always loosen and
tighten the hub nut with the
vehicle on the ground. Theleverage needed to loosen the nut (which
is very tight) could topple the vehicle off a
lift or an axle stand.
5Raise the front of the vehicle, support it
securely on axle stands, and remove the front
wheel again.
6Remove the front brake caliper and
mounting bracket (see Chapter 9). There is no
need to disconnect the brake hose. Hang the
caliper out of the way with a piece of wire.
7Remove the brake disc (see Chapter 9).
8Remove the hub nut, and pull the hub and
bearing assembly off the stub axle. You may
have to tap it off if it’s stuck (see illustration).
If the inner race of the bearing remains on the
stub axle (it probably will), remove the dust
shield (rubber boot) behind the bearing, and
use a puller to remove the inner race (see
illustration).Refitting
9Fit a new dust shield.
10Push the new hub and bearing onto the
stub axle. If it’s necessary to use force, press
or drive only against the bearing inner race
(see illustration).
11Fit a new hub nut, and tighten it finger-
tight at this stage.
12Refit the brake disc, its countersunk
retaining screw, and the brake caliper (see
Chapter 9).
13Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground.
14Tighten the hub nut to the torque listed inthis Chapter’s Specifications. Again, make
sure you do this with the vehicle on the
ground, not up on axle stands.
15Raise the front of the vehicle and place it
securely on axle stands. Remove the wheel.
16Stake the collar of the nut into the groove
of the spindle.
17Apply suitable sealant to a new grease
cap, and fit the cap by driving it into place
with a soft-faced mallet.
18Refit the wheel and wheel bolts. Lower the
vehicle to the ground, and tighten the wheel
bolts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1
Specifications.
9 Rear shock absorbers
(3-Series)-
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Note:Although shock absorbers don’t always
wear out simultaneously, renew both left and
right shock absorbers at the same time, to
prevent handling peculiarities or abnormal ride
quality.
1Chock the front wheels.
2Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands. Support the trailing
arm with a trolley jack. Place a block of wood
on the jack head to serve as a cushion.
3Remove the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt (see illustration).
10•8 Suspension and steering systems
9.3 Remove the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt (arrowed)8.10 Use a large socket or a suitable piece
of pipe to drive against the inner race of
the new bearing8.8b If the inner race of the bearing sticks
to the stub axle, use a puller to get it off
8.8a If the hub sticks, knock it loose with a
hammer8.3 Using a chisel, knock out the staked
portion of the hub nut8.2 Using a hammer and chisel, knock out
the dust cap in the centre of the hub

axle (it probably will), use a puller to remove
the race from the stub axle. If you can’t get
the race off with a puller, take the stub axle to
an engineering works and have it pressed off.
13Remove the large circlip that retains the
bearing in the bearing housing (see
illustration), then drive the bearing out of the
bearing housing with a large socket or a
suitable piece of pipe (see illustration).
14Refitting is basically a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points:
a) Fit the new bearing using a large socket
or a suitable piece of pipe, with an
outside diameter the same diameter as
the outer race (see illustration). Don’t
apply force to the inner race. Make sure
the bearing is fully seated against the
back of the bore. Refit the circlip, making
sure it’s fully seated into its groove.
b) BMW dealers use special tools (Part Nos.
23 1 1300, 33 4 080 and 33 4 020) to pull
the stub axle into the bearing, because
the smooth portion between the splined
portion of the stub axle and the flange is a
press-fit, and knocks out the wheel
bearing inner race during refitting of the
stub axle. However, you can refit the stub
axle without these tools, using the old
inner race and a piece of pipe 13 mm
long by 38 mm inside diameter (seeillustration). First, insert the stub axle
through the new bearing until the
threaded portion protrudes from the inner
race. Refit the nut and tighten it until the
splined portion of the stub axle shaft
bottoms against the nut. You’ll need to
hold the stub axle flange with a lever or a
large screwdriver while tightening the nut
(see illustration). Remove the nut, refit
your piece of pipe, centred on the inner
race and refit the nut (see illustration).
Tighten the nut again until it bottoms
against the splines. Remove the nut, refit
the old inner race, refit the nut and tighten
it once more until it bottoms against the
splines. Remove the nut, remove the old
inner race, refit your piece of pipe, refit
the old inner race, refit the nut and tighten
it until it bottoms against the splines.
Remove the nut, the old race and the
pipe. Refit the drive flange, refit the nut
and tighten it securely, but don’t attempt
to tighten it to the final torque until the
vehicle is lowered to the ground.
c) Refit the wheel and lower the vehicle to
the ground before tightening the stub axle
nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
15The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
16 Steering system-
general information
On 3-Series models, the steering wheel and
steering column are connected to a rack-and-
pinion steering gear (power-assisted where
applicable) via a short universal joint shaft.
When the steering wheel is turned, the
steering column and universal joint turn a
pinion gear shaft on top of the rack. The
pinion gear teeth mesh with the gear teeth of
the rack, so the rack moves right or left in the
housing when the pinion is turned. The
movement of the rack is transmitted through
the track rods and track rod ends to the
steering arms, which are an integral part of
the strut housings.
On 5-Series models, the upper part of the
steering system is identical to a 3-Series.
Instead of a rack-and-pinion set-up, however,
these models use a power-assisted
recirculating ball steering box which steers
the front wheels via a steering linkage
consisting of a Pitman arm, an idler arm, a
centre track rod, a pair of inner track rods,
and two track rod ends.
10•12 Suspension and steering systems
15.14d When you refit the spacer, make
sure it’s centred on the inner race of the
bearing before tightening the nut15.14c Hold the stub axle flange with a
large lever while tightening the nut15.14b You can fabricate your own spacer
tool from a piece of 13 mm long, 38 mm
inside diameter pipe (left); you’ll also need
to use the old inner race (right)
15.14a To refit the new bearing, use a
large socket or a piece of pipe with an
outside diameter the same diameter as the
outer race of the bearing - don’t apply
force to the inner race - and make sure the
bearing is fully seated against the back of
its bore15.13b . . . then drive the bearing out of
the housing with a large socket or a
suitable piece of pipe15.13a Remove the large circlip that
retains the bearing in the housing . . .

Where power-assistance is fitted, hydraulic
pressure (provided by an engine-driven pump)
delivers power steering fluid to the rack-and-
pinion steering gear or the recirculating-ball
steering box - this enhances steering
response and reduces steering effort.
Aside from maintaining the proper level of
power steering fluid in the system and
checking the tension of the drivebelt (see
Chapter 1, where applicable), the steering
system requires no maintenance. However,
on high-mileage vehicles, the track rod end
balljoints, the universal joints on either end of
the universal joint shaft, and the rubber
coupling between the steering column and the
universal joint shaft will wear, develop
excessive play, and cause the steering to feel
somewhat loose. At this point, you’ll have to
renew these items; they can’t be serviced.
Before you conclude that the steering
system needs work, however, always check
the tyres (see Section 25) and tyre pressures
(see Chapter 1). Also inspect the bearings in
the strut upper mounts (see Section 5), the
front hub bearings (see Section 8) and other
suspension parts, which may also be
contributing to an imprecise steering feel.
17 Track rod ends-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen but do not remove the wheel bolts,
then raise the front of the vehicle and secure it
on axle stands. Remove the front wheel.
3-Series models
2Loosen the nut on the track rod balljoint
stud, and free the balljoint stud from the
steering arm using a balljoint separator. In the
absence of a separator tool, try giving the
steering arm a few light blows with a hammer
(see illustration). Remove the nut, and
separate the balljoint stud from the steering
arm.3Loosen the clamp bolt that locks the track
rod end to the inner track rod. Measure the
length of the track rod end, or paint an
alignment mark on the threads to ensure the
track rod end is refitted in the same position
(see illustration). Unscrew the track rod end
from the inner track rod.
4Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure the mark you made on the threads of the
track rod end is aligned correctly, if
applicable. If you measured the track rod end,
make sure it is refitted to the same distance.
5Have the toe-in checked and, if necessary,
adjusted at a dealer service department or
qualified garage.
5-Series models
6Measure the length of the track rod and
record your measurement, or paint an
alignment mark on the threads to ensure the
track rod end is refitted in the same position
(see illustration). Loosen the clamp bolt.
7Use a balljoint separator or a puller to
separate the track rod end from the steering
arm (see illustration).
8Unscrew the track rod end.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure you align the paint mark made on the
threads of the track rod end, if applicable. If
you measured the track rod end, make sure it
is refitted to the same distance.
10Have the toe-in checked and, if
necessary, adjusted at a dealer service
department or qualified garage.
18 Steering gear boots
(3-Series)- renewal
4
1Remove the track rod ends (see Sec-
tion 17).
2Cut the boot clamps at both ends of the old
boots, and slide off the boots.
3While the boots are removed, inspect the
seals in the end of the steering gear. If they’releaking, renew the steering gear (see Sec-
tion 19).
4Slide the new boots into place and fit new
boot clamps.
5Refit the track rod ends (see Section 17).
19 Rack-and-pinion steering
gear (3-Series)-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
1Loosen but do not remove the wheel bolts,
raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove the front wheels.
2Mark the lower universal joint on the
steering shaft and the pinion shaft, to ensure
proper alignment when they’re reassembled.
Remove the nut and bolt that attach the lower
end of the universal joint shaft to the steering
gear pinion shaft. Loosen the bolt and nut at
the upper end of the universal joint shaft. Slide
the universal joint shaft up a little, disengage it
from the pinion shaft, and remove it. Inspect
the universal joints and the rubber coupling
for wear. If any of them are worn or defective,
renew the universal joint shaft.
3On power steering models, using a large
Suspension and steering systems 10•13
17.6 Measure the length of the track rod
and record your measurement, or paint an
alignment mark on the threads to ensure
the track rod end is refitted in the same
position, then loosen the clamp bolt
(arrowed)17.3 Loosen the clamp bolt (arrowed) that
locks the track rod end to the inner track
rod. Paint an alignment mark on the
threads, to ensure the track rod end is
refitted in the same position, and
unscrew the track rod end from the inner
track rod17.2 Loosen the nut on the track rod
balljoint stud. For preference use a
balljoint separator; otherwise, give the
steering arm a few light blows with a
hammer to release the balljoint stud.
Remove the nut, and separate the balljoint
stud from the steering arm
17.7 Using a puller to separate the track
rod end from the steering arm
10