engine mount torque spec BMW 3 SERIES 1988 E30 Owner's Manual

the stop-light switch (see Section 13). Note:
On right-hand-drive models, the brake pedal
in on the right-hand side of the vehicle, and is
connected to the left-hand side by a cross-
shaft. The adjustment is carried out on the
pushrod at the left-hand side, but the
dimension is measured at the pedal on the
right-hand side.
14On 5-Series models, adjust the brake
pedal height and the stop-light switch (see
Section 13).
15Refit the master cylinder (see Section 7)
and attach the vacuum hose.
16Carefully test the operation of the brakes
before returning the vehicle to normal use
9 Hydraulic brake servo-
description, removal and
refitting
3
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. It is also an effective
paint stripper. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 16.
Description
1On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models, a
hydraulic brake servo system is fitted. The
servo unit, located between the brake pedal
(left-hand-drive) or cross-shaft lever (right-
hand-drive) and the master cylinder, is
operated by hydraulic pressure generated by
the power steering pump. When the engine is
running, the power steering pump supplies
hydraulic pressure to a power flow regulator/
accumulator. The regulator/accumulator
stores and regulates the pressure to the
hydraulic brake servo. When you press the
brake pedal, the pressure in the servo helps
actuate the master cylinder, reducing pedal
effort.
2The hydraulic brake servo cannot be
overhauled; if it fails, a new one must be fitted.
Testing the system requires special tools, so
even fault diagnosis is beyond the scope of
the home mechanic. If the system fails, take it
to a dealer service department or other
qualified garage for repairs.
Removal and refitting
3With the engine off, discharge the hydraulic
accumulator by depressing the brake pedal
20 times or more.
4Remove the master cylinder (see Section 7).
5Clean the area around the return and
supply line fittings, then disconnect them.
Plug the lines, to prevent dirt from entering the
system, and to prevent further fluid loss.
Caution: Even a particle of dirt
can damage the servo, so be
extremely careful to prevent dirt
from entering the system while
the lines are disconnected.
6Working from inside the passenger
compartment, remove the lower left trim
panels above the brake pedal (left-hand-drive
models) or glovebox and trim (right-hand-drive models). On left-hand-drive models, also
disconnect the pedal return spring.
7Prise off the retaining clip, and disconnect
the pushrod from the brake pedal (see
illustration 8.9) or cross-shaft lever.
8Remove the four mounting nuts and
remove the brake servo (see illus-
tration 8.10).
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the hydraulic lines to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Note:Don’t try to
tighten these fittings without a torque wrench.
If they’re loose, they can leak, which can affect
system operation; if they’re tight, they can be
damaged, and they’ll also leak. You’ll need a
crowfoot-type split ring (“brake”) attachment
for your torque wrench to tighten the fittings
properly.
10When you’re done, bleed the brake
hydraulic system (Section 16) and adjust the
brake pedal travel and the stop-light switch
(see Section 13).
10 Handbrake cable(s)- renewal
2
1Peel back the boot at the base of the
handbrake lever, and remove the handbrake
cable adjusting nut (see illustration)which
also secures the cable to the handbrake lever.There are two cables - one for each rear wheel
- and a nut for each cable. On some models, it
may be necessary to remove the centre
console completely for access.
2Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
3Remove the rear brake drum (see Section 6)
or rear brake disc (see Section 5).
4On rear drum models, unhook the
handbrake cable from the lever on the rear
brake shoe (see Section 6). On rear disc
models, remove the handbrake shoes and the
actuator (see Section 12) and unhook the
handbrake cable from the actuator (see
illustrations).
5On rear drum models, pull the cable and
cable conduit (tube) out of the back of the
brake backplate, then detach the cable
conduit from the cable clips on the back of
the trailing arm (it’s easier to pull out the old
cable, and fit the new cable, with the conduit
straight instead of curved). On rear disc
models, it’s unnecessary to detach the cable
conduit from the brake backplate, but it’s a
good idea to detach the conduit from the clips
and guides securing it to the trailing arm, to
take some of the bend out of the conduit.
6Working from the wheel end of the cable
conduit, pull the cable out of the conduit (see
illustration).
7Lubricate the new cable with multi-purpose
grease, then insert it into the cable conduit
Braking system 9•11
10.1 Peel back the handbrake lever boot
and remove the relevant handbrake cable
adjusting nut (both arrowed)
10.6 Pull the cable out of its conduit;
before you refit the new cable, be sure to
lubricate it with multi-purpose grease10.4b . . . then remove the pin securing the
cable to the inner cam, and remove the
inner cam
10.4a To detach the handbrake cable from
the handbrake actuator on models with rear
disc brakes, pull on the outer cam and
disconnect it from the inner cam . . .
9

Bush inspection and renewal
8If the bush is cracked, torn or otherwise
deteriorated, take the arm to a BMW dealer
service department or an engineering works,
and have it pressed out and a new bush
pressed in. Bushes should always be renewed
in pairs (a new bush should be fitted in each
arm, and both bushes should have the same
manufacturer markings). If you’re fitting a new
thrust arm bush, make sure it’s correctly
orientated (see illustration).
Refitting
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to use new self-locking nuts on the balljoint
stud nut and the through-bolt. Don’t forget to
refit the washers on both sides of the through-
bolt. If you’re refitting the control arm, be sure
to use thread-locking compound on the
steering arm mounting bolts. Don’t tighten the
through-bolt to the final torque yet. Note:
Thrust arms are marked “L” for the left side,
and “R” for the right side. Be sure to check the
marking before fitting a new arm.
10Support the control arm with a trolley
jack, and raise it to simulate normal ride
height, then tighten the through-bolt to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.Refit the wheel and tighten the wheel bolts to
the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifi-
cations.
11Have the front end alignment checked at
a dealer service department or qualified
garage.
5 Front strut assembly-
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Note:Although strut assemblies don’t always
fail or wear out simultaneously, renew both left
and right struts at the same time, to prevent
handling peculiarities or abnormal ride quality.
1Loosen but do not remove the front wheel
bolts.
2Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on axle stands.
3Remove the front wheel.
4Detach all brake hoses and electrical wires
attached to the strut housing.
5Disconnect the electrical connections for
the ABS system, if applicable.
6If you’re removing the left strut, disconnectthe electrical connector for the brake pad
wear sensor.
7Remove the bolt securing the ABS wheel
sensor, if applicable. Remove the brake disc
(see Chapter 9).
8Remove the brake splash shield (see
illustration).
9On 3-Series models, disconnect the anti-
roll bar from its connecting link (see Sec-
tion 2). On 5-Series models, disconnect the
anti-roll bar link from the strut housing (see
Section 2).
10On 3-Series models, disconnect the
control arm balljoint from the steering knuckle
(see Section 3) and the track rod end from the
steering arm (see Section 17).
11On 5-Series models, disconnect the bolts
that attach the steering arm to the strut
housing (see illustration 4.5).
12Pull out the lower end of the strut housing
far enough to clear the end of the control arm
(3-Series) or the steering arm (5-Series).
13Support the weight of the strut and
remove the three mounting nuts at the top of
the strut, located inside the engine
compartment (see illustration)and remove
the strut.
14Remove the strut assembly. If a new
shock absorber (strut cartridge) is being fitted,
see Section 6.
Refitting
15Refitting is the reverse of removal. On
3-Series models, be sure to use new self-
locking nuts on the control arm balljoint, the
track rod end balljoint and the strut upper
mountings. On 5-Series models, make sure
the tang in the steering arm is mated with the
notch in the strut housing (see illustration).
BMW recommends using a thread-locking
compound on the steering arm mounting
bolts. On all models, tighten the fasteners to
the torques listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations.
16When you’re done, drive the vehicle to a
dealer service department or qualified garage
and have the wheel alignment checked, and if
necessary, adjusted.
10•6 Suspension and steering systems
5.15 On 5-Series models, make sure the
tang in the steering arm is mated with the
notch in the strut housing (arrowed)5.13 Support the weight of the strut and
remove the three mounting nuts (arrowed)
at the top of the strut (5-Series shown,
3-Series similar)5.8 To remove the brake splash shield,
remove these three bolts (arrowed)
4.8 Correct orientation of the bush for the
5-Series thrust arm. The arrow on the
rubber bush is aligned with the mark on
the arm, and the centre of the bush is
concentric with the bore4.7c . . . but you may have to use a
hammer to knock the control arm balljoint
stud loose from the steering arm, because
there’s no room to use a puller. A purpose-
made balljoint separator tool would be
better

6 Strut or shock absorber/coil
spring- renewal
4
Note:This section applies to all front strut
assemblies and, on 5-Series models, the rear
coil-over shock absorber assemblies.
1If the struts, shock absorbers or coil springs
exhibit the telltale signs of wear (leaking fluid,
loss of damping capability, chipped, sagging
or cracked coil springs) explore all options
before beginning any work. Strut or shock
absorber assemblies complete with springs
may be available on an exchange basis, which
eliminates much time and work. Whichever
route you choose to take, check on the cost
and availability of parts before dismantling the
vehicle.
Warning: Dismantling a strut or
coil-over shock absorber
assembly is a potentially
dangerous undertaking, and
utmost attention must be directed to the
job, or serious injury may result. Use only a
high-quality spring compressor, and
carefully follow the manufacturer’s
instructions supplied with the tool. After
removing the coil spring from the strut
assembly, set it aside in a safe, isolated
area.
2Remove the strut or shock absorber
assembly (see Section 5 or 11). Mount the
assembly in a vice. Line the vice jaws with
wood or rags to prevent damage to the unit,
and don’t tighten the vice excessively.
3Following the tool manufacturer’s
instructions, fit the spring compressor (these
can be obtained at most car accessory shops,
or it may be possible to hire one) on the
spring, and compress it sufficiently to relieve
all pressure from the suspension support (see
illustration). This can be verified by wiggling
the spring.
4Prise the protective cap off the damper rod
self-locking nut. Loosen the nut (see
illustration)with a spanner while holding thedamper rod stationary with another spanner
or an Allen key.
5Remove the nut, the strut bearing, the
insulator and the large washer. Check the
bearing for smooth operation. If it doesn’t turn
smoothly, renew it. Check the rubber insulator
for cracking and general deterioration. If there
is any separation of the rubber, renew the
insulator.
6Lift off the spring retainer and the rubber
ring at the top of the spring. Check the rubber
ring for cracking and hardness. Renew it if
necessary.
7Carefully lift the compressed spring from
the assembly and set it in a safe place, such
as a steel cabinet.
Warning: Never place your head
near the end of the spring!
8Slide the protective tube and rubber
bumper off the damper rod. If either is
damaged or worn, renew it.
9If you’re working on a front strut, loosen
and remove the threaded collar (see
illustration)and pull the old strut cartridge
from the strut housing. Pour the old oil from
the strut housing.
10On all struts except gas-charged units, fill
the strut housing with 20 to 25 cc (3-Series),
42 to 47 cc (518i and 520i 5-Series models) or
20 to 25 cc (all other 5-Series models) ofengine oil (the oil helps cool the shock
absorber by transferring heat to the strut
housing). Note:It doesn’t matter what
viscosity or grade of engine oil is used.
11Refitting is otherwise the reverse of
removal. Tighten the threaded collar to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Make sure you align the end of the coil spring
with the shoulder of the rubber ring and with
the spring retainer (see illustration). Tighten
the damper rod nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
12Refit the strut or shock absorber
assembly (see Section 5 or 11).
7 Balljoints- check and renewal
3
Check
Note:On 3-Series models, there are two
balljoints on each control arm - one between
the middle of the arm and the subframe, and
the other between the outer end of the arm
and the steering knuckle. On 5-Series models,
there are balljoints on the outer ends of the
control arm and the thrust arm.
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
2Visually inspect the rubber boot between
the balljoint and the subframe or steering
knuckle, etc for cuts, tears or leaking grease.
If you note any of these conditions, renew the
control arm or thrust arm - the balljoints are
not available separately.
3Place a large lever under the balljoint, and
try to push the balljoint up. Next, position the
lever between the arm and the subframe or
between the arm and steering knuckle. If you
can see or feel any movement during either
check, a worn balljoint is indicated.
4Have an assistant grasp the tyre at the top
and bottom, and shake the top of the tyre with
an in-and-out motion. Touch the balljoint stud
nut. If any looseness is felt, suspect a worn
balljoint stud or a widened hole in the
subframe or steering knuckle. If the latter
Suspension and steering systems 10•7
6.4 Prise the protective cap off the
damper rod nut, and remove the large nut
(arrowed) - to prevent the damper rod from
turning, place an Allen key in the end of
the shaft6.3 Following the tool manufacturer’s
instructions, fit the spring compressor to
the spring, and compress it sufficiently to
relieve all pressure from the suspension
support
6.11 Make sure you align the end of the
coil spring with the shoulder of the rubber
ring, and with the spring retainer
6.9 Loosen and remove the threaded
collar, and pull the old strut cartridge from
the strut housing - on all struts except
gas-charged units, pour the old oil from
the strut housing. (Spring should have
been removed first!)
10

4Inspect and, if necessary, renew any worn
or defective bolts, washers, bushes or links.
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
all fasteners securely.
13 Rear trailing arms (3-Series)
- removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Loosen the wheel bolts, then chock the
front wheels. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and
support it securely on axle stands. Remove
the wheel(s).
2Remove the driveshaft (see Chapter 8), or
disconnect it from the final drive output
flange.
3Disconnect the rear brake hose from the
metal brake line at the bracket on the trailing
arm (see illustration). Note: For information
on disconnecting brake hose-to-metal line
connections, see Chapter 9. Plug the line and
hose, to prevent dirt ingress and loss of brake
fluid.
4Disconnect the handbrake cable (see
Chapter 9).
5Disconnect the lower end of the shockabsorber from the trailing arm (see Section 9),
and lower the trailing arm.
6Remove the trailing arm pivot bolts (see
illustration)and remove the trailing arm.
7Inspect the pivot bolt bushes. If they’re
cracked, dried out or torn, take the trailing
arm to an engineering works and have them
new ones fitted. Each bush has a larger
diameter shoulder on one end. Make sure this
larger diameter shoulder on each bush faces
away from the trailing arm, ie the inner bush
shoulder faces the centre of the vehicle, and
the outer bush shoulder faces away from the
vehicle.Refitting
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. Support
the trailing arm with a trolley jack, and raise it
to simulate normal ride height, then tighten
the nuts and bolts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Be sure to bleed the
brakes as described in Chapter 9.
14 Rear trailing arms (5-Series)
- removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Loosen the wheel bolts, then chock the
front wheels. Raise the rear of the vehicle and
support it securely on axle stands. Remove
the wheel(s).2Remove the driveshaft (see Chapter 8).
3Disconnect the rear brake hose from the
metal brake line at the bracket on the trailing
arm (see illustration). Note: For information
on disconnecting brake hose-to-metal line
connections, see Chapter 9. Plug the line and
hose, to prevent dirt ingress and loss of brake
fluid.
4Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
handbrake actuator, and unclip the handbrake
cable from the trailing arm (see Chapter 9).
5Remove the ABS wheel sensor (if
applicable) from the trailing arm, and unclip
the sensor wire harness from the arm.
Position the sensor aside so it won’t be
damaged during removal of the trailing arm.
6If you’re removing the right trailing arm,
unplug the connector for the brake pad wear
sensor, if applicable.
7Disconnect the rear anti-roll bar from the
trailing arm (see Section 12).
8On 1983 and later models, remove one of
the rear axle carrier bolts (see illustration).
9Disconnect the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt (see Section 11).
10Remove the two trailing arm pivot bolts
and nuts, and remove the trailing arm from the
vehicle.
11Inspect the pivot bolt bushes. If they’re
cracked, dried out or torn, take the trailing
arm to an engineering works, and have new
ones fitted. The bush inner sleeve is longer on
one side. Make sure the bushes are fitted with
10•10 Suspension and steering systems
14.3 Disconnect the brake hose (left
arrow) from the fitting on the metal brake
line (right arrow) at this bracket13.6 Nut (arrowed) for the outer pivot bolt
13.3 Disconnect the rear brake hose
(middle arrow) from the metal brake line
fitting (right arrow) at this bracket on the
trailing arm, then plug the line and hose
immediately; the other arrow points to the
nut for the inner pivot bolt
12.3b Bolt (arrowed) connecting rear anti-
roll bar link to trailing arm (5-Series)12.3a A nut and bolt (arrowed) connect
each rear anti-roll bar link to the rear
trailing arms (3-Series)12.2 Rear anti-roll bar bracket bolt
(arrowed) (3-Series)

21 Steering box (5-Series)-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
Note:If you find that the steering box is
defective, it is not recommended that you
overhaul it. Because of the special tools
needed to do the job, it is best to let your
dealer service department overhaul it for you
(otherwise, fit a new unit). Removal and
refitting the steering box is outlined here.
1On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models,
discharge the hydraulic system by depressing
the brake pedal about 20 times.
2Using a large syringe or hand pump, empty
the power steering fluid reservoir (see Chap-
ter 1).
3Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands.
4Support the front of the engine with a trolley
jack. Place a block of wood between the jack
head and the sump to protect the sump from
damage.
5Remove the pivot bolts from the inner ends
of the front control arms (see Section 4).
6Remove the nuts from the left and right
engine mountings (see Chapter 2).
7Remove the mounting bolts (two on each
side on earlier models, three on each side on
later models) from the subframe crossmember
(see illustration)and remove the subframe.
8Remove the nuts and bolts that secure the
universal joint shaft to the steering box worm
shaft. Slide the universal joint shaft up and off
the worm shaft. Inspect the universal joint
shaft for wear. If it’s stiff or worn, renew it.
9Remove the banjo bolts, and disconnect
the hydraulic pressure line and the return line
from the box (see illustration). Plug the ends
of the lines to prevent fluid loss and
contamination. Discard the sealing washers -
new ones should be used when reassembling.
10Remove the steering box retaining bolts
(see illustrations)and remove the steering
box.
11If it’s necessary to detach the Pitman arm
from the box sector shaft (to have the box
serviced or to switch the arm to a new orrebuilt unit), make a match mark across the
two for correct reassembly. Remove the
Pitman arm retaining nut and washer. Use a
puller to withdraw the arm if necessary.
Refitting
12Refit the Pitman arm by aligning the
match marks made during removal, then
tighten the nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
13When fitted the Pitman arm must not have
any measurable endfloat within 100° from the
neutral position. If play exists, have the
following parts checked:
a) Sector shaft and bearings (for wear)
b) Thrust washer and adjuster bolt head (for
wear)
c) Ball nut and worm shaft (for wear)
14Refit the steering box. Align the mark on
the pinion gear shaft with the mark on the
universal joint shaft, and tighten the steering
box bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
15The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Be sure to use new self-locking nuts
on the universal joint shaft, the centre track
rod, the steering box and the crossmember.
Also, use new sealing washers on the
hydraulic line fittings.
16Refer to Chapter 1 and fill the powersteering reservoir with the recommended
fluid, then bleed the system as described in
Section 23. Check for leakage from the lines
and connections.22 Power steering pump-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove the engine undertray.
2On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models,
discharge the hydraulic system by depressing
the brake pedal about 20 times before
loosening the hydraulic line fittings.
3Disconnect the fluid return hose, and drain
the power steering fluid from the reservoir into
a clean container. Disconnect the pressure
line from the pump.
4If you need to remove the pulley from the
pump, push on the power steering pump
drivebelt by hand to increase the tension, and
unscrew the pulley nuts or bolts.
5Loosen the power steering pump drivebelt
tensioner bolt, and remove the drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
6Remove the mounting bolts (see
illustrations)and detach the power steering
pump.
Suspension and steering systems 10•15
21.10a This bolt (arrowed) secures the
steering box to the subframe
crossmember. The nut, not visible in this
photo, is accessed through a hole in the
crossmember (engine removed for clarity,
left-hand-drive shown)21.9 Disconnect the power steering
pressure line fitting (right arrow) and the
return line fitting (left arrow). Note that the
return line fitting banjo bolt is larger than
the bolt for the pressure line fitting (left-
hand-drive shown)21.7 Subframe crossmember bolts
(arrowed)
22.6a Typical 3-Series power steering
pump adjusting bolt (arrowed) . . .
21.10b This bolt (arrowed) attaches the
steering box to the body (the nut, not
visible in this photo, is on the front side of
the steering box)
10

Refitting
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the nuts and bolts securely. Adjust the
drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1).
8Top-up the fluid level in the reservoir (see
Chapter 1) and bleed the system (see Sec-
tion 23).
23 Power steering system-
bleeding
1
1To bleed the power steering system, begin
by checking the power steering fluid level and
adding fluid if necessary (see Chapter 1).
2Raise and support the front of the vehicle
on axle stands.
3Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times. Recheck the fluid level and top
up if necessary.
4Start the engine and run it at 1000 rpm or
less. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-
lock again (three or four times) and recheck
the fluid level one more time. Note:On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models, pump the
brake pedal five or six times before turning the
steering wheel. Once the fluid level remains
constant, continue turning the wheel back and
forth until no more bubbles appear in the fluid
in the reservoir.
5Lower the vehicle to the ground. Run the
engine and again turn the wheels from lock-
to-lock several more times. Recheck the fluid
level. Position the wheels straight-ahead.24 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: If the vehicle is
equipped with an airbag, do not
attempt this procedure. Have it
performed by a dealer service
department or other qualified specialist, as
there is a risk of injury if the airbag is
accidentally triggered.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Using a small screwdriver, prise off the
BMW emblem in the centre of the steering
wheel.
3Remove the steering wheel nut, and mark
the relationship of the steering wheel hub to
the shaft (see illustration).
4On all 3-Series models, and on 1986 and
later 5-Series models, turn the ignition key to
the first position to unlock the ignition lock.
5Remove the steering wheel from thesteering shaft. If the wheel is difficult to
remove from the shaft, use a steering wheel
puller to remove it - don’t hammer on the
shaft.
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to align the match marks you made on the
steering wheel and the shaft. Tighten the
steering wheel nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
25 Wheels and tyres-
general information
1
Note:For more information on care and
maintenance of tyres, refer to Chapter 1.
1All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with steel-belted radial tyres as
original equipment. Use of other types or
sizes of tyres may affect the ride and handling
of the vehicle. Don’t mix different types or
sizes of tyres, as the handling and braking
may be seriously affected. It’s recommended
that tyres be renewed in pairs on the same
axle; if only one new tyre is being fitted, be
sure it’s the same size, structure and tread
design as the other.
2Because tyre pressure has a substantial
effect on handling and wear, the pressure on
all tyres should be checked at least once a
month or before any extended trips (see
Chapter 1).
3Wheels must be renewed if they are bent,
heavily dented, leak air, or are otherwise
damaged.
4Tyre and wheel balance is important in the
overall handling, braking and performance of
the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely
affect handling and ride characteristics, as
well as tyre life. Whenever a new tyre is fitted,
the tyre and wheel should be balanced.
10•16 Suspension and steering systems
24.3 After removing the steering wheel
nut, mark the relationship of the steering
wheel to the steering shaft (arrowed) to
ensure proper alignment during
reassembly
22.6c Typical 5-Series power steering pump mounting bolts
(arrowed)22.6b . . . and mounting nut and bolt (arrowed)

REF•8General Repair Procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components,
observe the following procedures and
instructions. This will assist in carrying out the
operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, a new one must be
fitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwise
stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that
the mating faces are clean and dry, with all
traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a
joint face, use a tool which is unlikely to score
or damage the face, and remove any burrs or
nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing isunshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and
should then be renewed as a matter of course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring com-
pressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the manu-
facturer’s special tools are described, and are
shown in use. In some instances, where no
alternative is possible, it has been necessary
to resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool,
and this has been done for reasons of safety
as well as the efficient completion of the repair
operation. Unless you are highly-skilled and
have a thorough understanding of the
procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal
injury, but expensive damage could be
caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.
With the universal tightening-up of legis-
lation regarding the emission of environmen-
tally-harmful substances from motor vehicles,
most vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted
to the main adjustment points of the fuel
system. These devices are primarily designed
to prevent unqualified persons from adjusting
the fuel/air mixture, with the chance of a
consequent increase in toxic emissions. If
such devices are found during servicing or
overhaul, they should, wherever possible, be
renewed or refitted in accordance with the
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.