fuel pump BMW 5 SERIES 1989 E34 Workshop Manual

0•6Safety First!
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

stripes moulded into them. Various systems
require hoses with different wall thicknesses,
collapse resistance and temperature
resistance. When fitting new hoses, be sure
the new ones are made of the same material.
5Often the only effective way to check a
hose is to remove it completely from the
vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be
sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure
correct refitting.
6When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to
include any plastic T-fittings in the check.
Inspect the connections for cracks which
could cause leakage.
7A small piece of vacuum hose can be used
as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks.
Hold one end of the hose to your ear and
probe around vacuum hoses and fittings,
listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic
of a vacuum leak.
Warning: When probing with the
vacuum hose stethoscope, be
careful not to touch moving
engine components such as the
drivebelt, cooling fan, etc.
Fuel hoses
Warning: There are certain
precautions which must be taken
when servicing or inspecting fuel
system components. Work in a
well-ventilated area, and do not allow open
flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights,
etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work
area. Mop up any spills immediately, and
do not store fuel-soaked rags where they
could ignite. If you spill any fuel on your
skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and
water. When you perform any kind of work
on the fuel system, wear safety glasses,
and have a fire extinguisher on hand.
8The fuel hoses are usually under pressure,
so if any fuel hoses are to be disconnected,
be prepared to catch spilled fuel.
Warning: On vehicles equipped
with fuel injection, you must
depressurise the fuel system
before servicing the fuel hoses.
Refer to Chapter 4 for details.9Check all rubber fuel hoses for deterioration
and chafing. Check especially for cracks in
areas where the hose bends, and just before
connectors, such as where a hose attaches to
the fuel pump or fuel filter, for example.
10Only high-quality fuel hose should be
used. Never, under any circumstances, use
unreinforced vacuum hose, clear plastic
tubing or water hose for fuel hoses.
11Band-type clamps are commonly used on
fuel hoses. These clamps often lose their
tension over a period of time, and can be
“sprung” during removal. Renew all band-type
clamps with screw clamps whenever a hose is
renewed.
Metal lines
12Sections of metal line are often used
between the fuel pump and fuel injection
system. Check carefully to make sure the line
isn’t bent, crimped or cracked.
13If a section of metal line must be renewed,
use seamless steel tubing only, since copper
and aluminium tubing do not have the
strength necessary to withstand the vibration
caused by the engine.
14Check the metal brake lines where they
enter the master cylinder and brake
proportioning or ABS unit (if used) for cracks
in the lines and loose fittings. Any sign of
brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate
thorough inspection of the braking system.
Power steering hoses
15Check the power steering hoses for leaks,
loose connections and worn clamps. Tighten
loose connections. Worn clamps or leaky
hoses should be renewed.
11 Drivebelt check, adjustment
and renewal
1
Check
1The drivebelts, sometimes called V-belts or
simply “fan” belts, are located at the front of
the engine, and play an important role in the
overall operation of the vehicle and itscomponents. Due to their function and
material make-up, the belts are prone to
failure after a period of time, and should be
inspected and adjusted periodically to prevent
major engine damage.
2The number of belts used on a particular
vehicle depends on the accessories fitted.
Drivebelts are used to turn the alternator,
power steering pump, water pump, and air
conditioning compressor. Depending on the
pulley arrangement, a single belt may be used
to drive more than one of these components.
3With the engine switched off, open the
bonnet and locate the various belts at the
front of the engine. Using your fingers (and a
torch, if necessary), move along the belts,
checking for cracks and separation of the belt
plies. Also check for fraying and glazing,
which gives the belt a shiny appearance (see
illustration). Both sides of the belts should be
inspected, which means you will have to twist
each belt to check the underside.
4The tension of each belt is checked by
pushing firmly with your thumb and seeing
how much the belt moves (deflects). Measure
the deflection with a ruler (see illustration). A
good rule of thumb is that the belt should
deflect 6 mm if the distance from pulley
centre-to-pulley centre is between 180 and
280 mm. The belt should deflect 13 mm if the
distance from pulley centre-to-pulley centre is
between 300 and 400 mm.
Adjustment
5If it is necessary to adjust the belt tension,
either to make the belt tighter or looser, it is
done by moving a belt-driven accessory on its
bracket. (When the same belt drives more
than one accessory, normally only one
accessory is moved when making
adjustment.)
6For each component, there will be an
adjusting bolt and a pivot bolt. Both bolts
must be loosened slightly to enable you to
move the component. On some components,
the drivebelt tension can be adjusted by
turning an adjusting bolt after loosening the
lockbolt (see illustration).
7After the two bolts have been loosened,
1•14
11.6 Loosen the nut on the other end of
the adjuster bolt (arrowed) and turn the
bolt to increase or decrease tension on the
drivebelt11.4 Measuring drivebelt deflection with a
straightedge and ruler11.3 Here are some of the more common
problems associated with drivebelts
(check the belts very carefully to prevent
an untimely breakdown)
Every 6000 miles

1 General information
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-
vehicle engine repair procedures. All
information concerning engine removal and
refitting and engine block and cylinder head
overhaul can be found in Chapter 2B.
The following repair procedures are based
on the assumption that the engine is still fitted
in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed
from the vehicle and mounted on a stand,
many of the steps outlined in this Part of
Chapter 2 will not apply.
The Specifications included in this Part of
Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures
contained in this Part. Chapter 2B contains
the Specifications necessary for cylinder head
and engine block rebuilding.
The single overhead camshaft four- and
six-cylinder engines covered in this manual
are very similar in design. Where there are
differences, they will be pointed out.
The means by which the overhead
camshaft is driven varies according to engine
type; M10 and M30 engines use a timing
chain, while M20 and M40 engines have a
timing belt.
2 Repair operations possible
with the engine in the vehicle
Many major repair operations can be
accomplished without removing the engine
from the vehicle.
Clean the engine compartment and the
exterior of the engine with some type of
degreaser before any work is done. It will
make the job easier, and help keep dirt out of
the internal areas of the engine.
Depending on the components involved, it
may be helpful to remove the bonnet to
improve access to the engine as repairs are
performed (see Chapter 11 if necessary).
Cover the wings to prevent damage to the
paint. Special pads are available, but an old
bedspread or blanket will also work.
If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks
develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal
renewal, the repairs can generally be made
with the engine in the vehicle. The intake and
exhaust manifold gaskets, sump gasket,
crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket
are all accessible with the engine in place.
Exterior components, such as the intake
and exhaust manifolds, the sump, the oil
pump, the water pump, the starter motor, the
alternator, the distributor and the fuel system
components, can be removed for repair with
the engine in place.
The cylinder head can be removed without
removing the engine, so this procedure is
covered in this Part of Chapter 2. Camshaft,
rocker arm and valve component servicing ismost easily accomplished with the cylinder
head removed; these procedures are covered
in Part B of this Chapter. Note, however, that
the camshaft on the M40 engine may be
removed with the engine in the vehicle since it
is retained by bearing caps.
In extreme cases caused by a lack of
necessary equipment, repair or renewal of
piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and
big-end bearings is possible with the engine in
the vehicle. However, this practice is not
recommended, because of the cleaning and
preparation work that must be done to the
components involved.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for
No 1 piston- locating
2
Note 1:The following procedure is based on
the assumption that the distributor (if
applicable) is correctly fitted. If you are trying
to locate TDC to refit the distributor correctly,
piston position must be determined by feeling
for compression at the No 1 spark plug hole,
then aligning the ignition timing marks or
inserting the timing tool in the flywheel, as
applicable.
Note 2:The No 1 cylinder is the one closest to
the radiator.
1Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point
in the cylinder that each piston reaches as it
travels up and down when the crankshaft
turns. Each piston reaches TDC on the
compression stroke and again on the exhaust
stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston
position on the compression stroke.
2Positioning the piston at TDC is an essential
part of many procedures, such as timing belt
or chain removal and distributor removal.
3Before beginning this procedure, be sure to
place the transmission in Neutral, and apply
the handbrake or chock the rear wheels. Also,
disable the ignition system by detaching the
coil wire from the centre terminal of the
distributor cap, and earthing it on the engine
block with a jumper wire. Remove the spark
plugs (see Chapter 1).
4In order to bring any piston to TDC, the
crankshaft must be turned using one of the
methods outlined below. When looking at the
front of the engine, normal crankshaft rotation
is clockwise.
(a) The preferred method is to turn the
crankshaft with a socket and ratchet
attached to the bolt threaded into the
front of the crankshaft.
(b) A remote starter switch, which may save
some time, can also be used. Follow the
instructions included with the switch.
Once the piston is close to TDC, use a
socket and ratchet as described in the
previous paragraph.
(c) If an assistant is available to turn the
ignition switch to the Start position in
short bursts, you can get the piston close
to TDC without a remote starter switch.Make sure your assistant is out of the
vehicle, away from the ignition switch,
then use a socket and ratchet as
described in (a) to complete the
procedure.
5Note the position of the terminal for the
No 1 spark plug lead on the distributor cap. If
the terminal isn’t marked, follow the plug lead
from the No 1 cylinder spark plug to the cap
(No 1 cylinder is nearest the radiator).
6Use a felt-tip pen or chalk to make a mark
directly below the No 1 terminal on the
distributor body or timing cover.
7Detach the distributor cap, and set it aside
(see Chapter 1 if necessary).
8Turn the crankshaft (see paragraph 4
above) until the timing marks (located at the
front of the engine) are aligned (see
illustration). The M40 engine does not have
any timing marks at the front of the engine,
but instead has a timing hole in the flywheel
which must be aligned with a hole in the rear
flange of the cylinder block. On this engine,
turn the crankshaft until the distributor rotor is
approaching the No 1 TDC position, then
continue to turn the crankshaft until a suitable
close-fitting drill can be inserted through the
hole in the cylinder block and into the
flywheel.
9Look at the distributor rotor - it should be
pointing directly at the mark you made on the
distributor body or timing cover.
10If the rotor is 180 degrees out, the No 1
piston is at TDC on the exhaust stroke.
11To get the piston to TDC on the
compression stroke, turn the crankshaft one
complete turn (360°) clockwise. The rotor
should now be pointing at the mark on the
distributor or timing cover. When the rotor is
pointing at the No 1 spark plug lead terminal
in the distributor cap and the ignition timing
marks are aligned, the No 1 piston is at TDC
on the compression stroke. Note:If it’s
impossible to align the ignition timing marks
when the rotor is pointing at the mark, the
timing belt or chain may have jumped the
teeth on the sprockets, or may have been
fitted incorrectly.
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•3
3.8 Align the notch in the pulley with the
notch on the timing plate, then check to
see if the distributor rotor is pointing to the
No 1 cylinder (if not, the camshaft is 180
degrees out - the crankshaft will have to
be rotated 360 degrees)
2A

6 Exhaust manifold-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: Make sure the engine is
completely cool before beginning
work on the exhaust system.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2On models where the air cleaner is on the
exhaust manifold side of the engine, remove
the air cleaner housing assembly and/or
airflow sensor to provide sufficient working
area (see Chapter 4, if necessary).
3Unplug the HT leads and set the spark plug
lead harness aside (see Chapter 1).
4Clearly label, then disconnect or remove, all
wires, hoses, fittings, etc. that are in the way.
Be sure to disconnect the oxygen sensor,
where fitted.
5Raise the vehicle, and support it securely
on axle stands. Working from under the
vehicle, separate the exhaust downpipe from
the manifold. Use penetrating oil on the
fasteners to ease removal (see illustrations).
6Remove the axle stands, and lower the
vehicle. Working from the ends of the
manifold toward the centre, loosen the
retaining nuts gradually until they can be
removed. Again, penetrating oil may prove
helpful.
7Pull the manifold off the head, then remove
the old gaskets (see illustrations). Note:Be
very careful not to damage the oxygen sensor,
where fitted.8Clean the gasket mating surfaces of the
head and manifold, and make sure the
threads on the exhaust manifold studs are in
good condition.
9Check for corrosion, warping, cracks, and
other damage. Repair or renew the manifold
as necessary.
10When refitting the manifold, use new
gaskets. Tighten the manifold-to-head
retaining nuts gradually, starting at the centre
and working out to the ends, to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Also
tighten the downpipe-to-manifold nuts.
11The remaining steps are simply a reversal
of the removal procedure.
7 Timing chain covers-
removal and refitting
5
Note 1:This procedure applies to M10 and
M30 engines.
Note 2:The upper timing chain cover can be
removed separately. If you need to remove
both the upper and lower covers, special tools
are required. Read paragraphs 8 and 9 before
beginning work.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code before
disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
2If you’re removing the lower timing chain
cover (the upper cover can be removed
separately), remove the cooling fan and fan
shroud, the radiator and the fan drivebelt
pulley (see Chapter 3).
3On the M10 engine only, remove the water
pump (see Chapter 3).
4On engines where the distributor cap is
mounted directly to the timing chain cover,
remove the cap, rotor and the black plastic
cover beneath the rotor (see Chapter 1).
5On the M30 engine fitted with the
L-Jetronic fuel system, remove the
distributor from the upper timing cover (see
Chapter 5).
6Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).
7If you’ll be removing the lower timing chain
cover on the M30 engine, remove the crankshaft
pulley from the vibration damper/hub. Hold the
pulley stationary with a socket on the centre
bolt, and remove the pulley bolts with another
socket (see illustration).
8If you’ll be removing the lower timing chain
2A•6 In-car engine repair procedures
6.7c Removing the exhaust manifold-to-
downpipe gasket (M40 engine)6.7b Removing the exhaust manifold
gasket (M40 engine)6.7a Removing the exhaust manifold
(M40 engine)
6.5b Exhaust manifold-to-downpipe flange
(M40 engine)6.5a Remove the exhaust manifold nuts
(arrowed) from the exhaust pipe (M20
engine) - soaking the nuts with penetrating
oil should make them easier to remove
Remove the windscreen
washer reservoir from the
right-hand side of the engine
compartment to give more
working room.

cover, remove the vibration damper/hub by
locking the crankshaft in position and
loosening the large centre bolt. Since the bolt
is on very tight, you’ll need to use an
extension bar and socket to break it loose. On
M30 engines, BMW recommends using a
3/4-inch drive socket and extension bar, since
the bolt is extremely tight on these engines.
To lock the crankshaft in place while the bolt
is being loosened, use BMW special tool
No. 11 2 100 (or equivalent).
9On the M10 engine, if the special tool listed
in the previous paragraph is not available, you
may try locking the crankshaft by removing
the flywheel/driveplate inspection cover and
jamming a wide-bladed screwdriver into the
ring gear teeth. On the M30 engine, since the
bolt is so extremely tight, we don’t
recommend substitute methods. Use the
correct tool. On the M10 engine, after the
centre bolt is removed, it will probably be
necessary to use a jaw-type puller to pull the
vibration damper off the crankshaft. Position
the jaws behind the inner pulley groove, and
tighten the puller centre bolt very slowly,
checking the pulley to make sure it does not
get bent or otherwise damaged by the puller.
10Unscrew the plug and remove the timing
chain tensioner spring (see illustration). The
tensioner plunger may come out with the
spring. If not, reach down into the hole where
the tensioner spring was, and remove the
plunger. To check the plunger for proper
operation, see Section 8.
Caution: The spring is under
tension, and this could cause the
plug to be ejected from its hole with
considerable force. Hold the
tensioner plug securely as it’s beingunscrewed, and release the spring tension
slowly.
11On the M30 engine, if you’re removing the
upper timing cover, unbolt the thermostat cover
and remove the thermostat (see Chapter 3).
12On the M30 engine, if you’re removing the
lower timing cover, loosen the alternator
mounting bolts, and swing the alternator to
one side. Remove the front lower mounting
bracket bolt, and loosen the other bolts. Also
unbolt the power steering pump mounting
bracket, and move it to one side.
13Remove the bolts and nuts securing the
upper timing chain cover to the engine block,
and remove the cover. Draw a simple diagram
showing the location of the bolts, so they can
be returned to the same holes from which
they’re removed. Remove the upper timing
chain cover. If it sticks to the engine block, tap
it gently with a rubber mallet, or place a piece
of wood against the cover and hit the wood
with a hammer. On the M30 engine fitted with
the L-Jetronic fuel system, remove the
distributor driveshaft.
14Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the
lower timing chain cover to the engine block.
Be sure to remove the three bolts from
underneath that connect the front of the sump
to the bottom of the front cover (see
illustration). Loosen the remaining sump bolts.
15Run a sharp, thin knife between the sump
gasket and lower timing chain cover, cutting
the cover free from the gasket. Be very careful
not to damage or dirty the gasket, so you can
re-use it.
16Break the lower timing chain cover-to-
block gasket seal by tapping the cover with a
rubber mallet, or with a hammer and block of
wood. Do not prise between the cover and the
engine block, as damage to the gasket sealing
surfaces will result.
17Using a scraper, remove all traces of old
gasket material from the sealing surfaces of
the covers and engine block.
Caution: Be very careful not to
scratch or gouge the delicate
aluminium surfaces. Also, do not
damage the sump gasket, and
keep it clean. Gasket removal solvents are
available at motor factors, and may prove
helpful. After all gasket material has beenremoved, the gasket surfaces can be
degreased by wiping them with a rag
dampened with a suitable solvent.Refitting
18Renew the front oil seals (see Section 11).
It’s not wise to take a chance on an old seal,
since renewal with the covers removed is very
easy. Be sure to apply a little oil to the front oil
seal lips.
19Apply a film of RTV-type gasket sealant to
the surface of the sump gasket that mates
with the lower timing chain cover. Apply extra
beads of RTV sealant to the edges where the
gasket meets the engine block. Note:If the
sump gasket is damaged, instead of fitting a
whole new gasket, you might try trimming the
front portion of the gasket off at the point
where it meets the engine block, then trim off
the front portion of a new sump gasket so it’s
exactly the same size. Cover the exposed
inside area of the sump with a rag, then clean
all traces of old gasket material off the area
where the gasket was removed. Attach the
new gasket piece to the sump with contact-
cement-type gasket adhesive, then apply
RTV-type sealant as described at the
beginning of this paragraph.
20Coat both sides of the new gasket with
RTV-type gasket sealant, then attach the
lower timing chain cover to the front of the
engine. Refit the bolts, and tighten them
evenly to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Work from bolt-to-bolt in a
criss-cross pattern to be sure they’re
tightened evenly.Note 1:Tighten the lower
cover-to-block bolts first, then tighten the
sump-to-cover bolts. If the gasket protrudes
above the cover-to-block joint, or bunches up
at the cover-to-sump joint, trim the gasket so
it fits correctly.Note 2:After applying RTV-
type sealant, reassembly must be completed
in about 10 minutes so the RTV won’t
prematurely harden.
21Refit the upper timing chain cover in the
same way as the lower cover. If the gasket
protrudes beyond the top of the cover and the
engine block, trim off the excess with a razor
blade.
22Refitting is otherwise the reverse of
removal.
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•7
7.14 From underneath the vehicle, remove
the three bolts (arrowed) that connect the
cover and the sump7.10 Unscrew the plug from the timing
chain cover, and remove the tensioner
spring and plunger7.7 Place a socket and ratchet on the
centre bolt to keep the pulley stationary,
and use another socket and ratchet to
remove the smaller bolts attaching the
pulley to the vibration damper
2A
If the pulley seems to be
sticking on the crankshaft, it
may help to spray the hub
area with some penetrating
oil, and to gently tap on the hub area
with a hammer.

22Using a scraper, remove all traces of old
gasket material from the sealing surfaces of
the covers and engine block.
Caution: Be very careful not to
scratch or gouge the delicate
aluminium surfaces. Also, do not
damage the sump gasket, and
keep it clean. Gasket removal solvents are
available at motor factors, and may
prove helpful. After all gasket material has
been removed, the gasket surfaces
can be degreased by wiping them
with a rag dampened with a suitable
solvent.
23Support the cover on two blocks of wood,
and drive out the seals from behind with a
hammer and screwdriver. Be very careful not
to damage the seal bores in the process.
24Coat the outside diameters and lips of the
new seals with multi-purpose grease, and
drive the seals into the cover with a hammer
and a socket slightly smaller in diameter than
the outside diameter of the seal.
25Apply a film of RTV-type gasket sealant to
the surface of the sump gasket that mates
with the front cover. Apply extra beads of RTV
sealant to the edges where the gasket meets
the engine block. Note:If the sump gasket is
damaged, instead of fitting a whole new
gasket, you might try trimming the front
portion of the gasket off at the point where it
meets the engine block, then trim off the front
portion of a new sump gasket so it’s exactly
the same size. Cover the exposed inside area
of the sump with a rag, then clean all traces of
old gasket material off the area where the
gasket was removed. Attach the new gasket
piece to the sump with contact-cement-type
gasket adhesive, then apply RTV-type sealant
as described at the beginning of this
paragraph.
26Coat both sides of the new gasket with
RTV-type gasket sealant, then attach the front
cover to the front of the engine, carefully
working the seals over the crankshaft and
intermediate shaft. Refit the bolts and tighten
them evenly to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Work from bolt-to-
bolt in a criss-cross pattern, to be sure they’re
tightened evenly.Note 1:Tighten the front
cover-to-block bolts first, then tighten the
sump-to-cover bolts. Note 2:After applying
RTV-type sealant, reassembly must be
completed in about 10 minutes so the RTV
won’t prematurely harden.
27The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
Crankshaft front seal (M40 engines)
28Remove the timing belt and crankshaft
sprocket (see Section 10).
29Remove the Woodruff key from the
groove in the end of the crankshaft.
30Note the fitted position of the oil seal, then
prise it out from the front cover using a
screwdriver, but take care not to damage the
bore of the cover or the surface of thecrankshaft. If the seal is tight, drill two small
holes in the metal end of the seal, and use two
self-tapping screws to pull out the seal. Make
sure all remains of swarf are removed.
31Coat the outside diameter and lip of the
new seal with multi-purpose grease, then
drive it into the cover with a hammer and a
socket slightly smaller in diameter than the
outside diameter of the seal. Make sure the
seal enters squarely.
32The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Note that it is recommended that the
timing belt be renewed - see Section 10.
12 Cylinder head-
removal and refitting
5
Removal
1Relieve the fuel pressure on all fuel injection
engines (see Chapter 4).
2Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery. Where the battery is located in the
engine compartment, the battery may be
removed completely (see Chapter 5).
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
3Remove the air cleaner assembly (see
Chapter 4).
4Disconnect the wiring from the distributor
(mark all wiring for position first, if necessary),
and the HT lead from the coil (see Chapter 5).
5Disconnect the lead from the coolant
temperature sender unit (see Chapter 3).
6Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail or
carburettor as applicable (see Chapter 4).
7Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 3).
8Clearly label then disconnect all other
hoses from the throttle body, intake manifold,
carburettor and cylinder head, as applicable.
9Disconnect the throttle cable from the
throttle linkage or carburettor (see Chapter 4).
10Disconnect the exhaust manifold from the
cylinder head (see Section 6). Depending on
the engine type, It may not be necessary to
disconnect the manifold from the exhaust
pipe; however, on right-hand-drive models,
the steering column intermediate shaft may
not allow the manifold to clear the studs on
the cylinder head.
11Remove or disconnect any remaining
hoses or lines from the intake manifold,
including the ignition advance vacuum line(s),
and the coolant and heater hoses.
12On early carburettor models, disconnect
the wiring from the alternator and starter
motor.13Remove the intake manifold (see Sec-
tion 5). Do not dismantle or remove any fuel
injection system components unless it is
absolutely necessary.
14Remove the fan drivebelt and fan (see
Chapter 3).
15Remove the valve cover and gasket (see
Section 4). Remove the semi-circular rubber
seal from the front of the cylinder head, where
this is not incorporated in the valve cover
gasket.
16Set No 1 piston at Top Dead Centre on
the compression stroke (see Section 3).
17Remove the timing chain or belt (see
Section 8 or 10). Note:If you want to save
time by not removing and refitting the timing
belt or chain and re-timing the engine, you can
unfasten the camshaft sprocket and suspend
it out of the way - with the belt or chain still
attached - by a piece of rope. Be sure the
rope keeps firm tension on the belt or chain,
so it won’t become disengaged from any of
the sprockets.
18Loosen the cylinder head bolts a quarter-
turn at a time each, in the reverse of the
tightening sequence shown (see illustrations
12.30a, 12.30b, 12.30c or 12.30d). Do
notdismantle or remove the rocker arm
assembly at this time on M10, M20 and M30
engines.
19Remove the cylinder head by lifting it
straight up and off the engine block. Do not
prise between the cylinder head and the
engine block, as damage to the gasket sealing
surfaces may result. Instead, use a blunt bar
positioned in an intake port to gently prise the
head loose.
20Remove any remaining external
components from the head to allow for
thorough cleaning and inspection. See
Chapter 2B for cylinder head servicing
procedures. On the M40 engine, remove the
rubber O-ring from the groove in the top of the
oil pump/front end cover housing.
Refitting
21The mating surfaces of the cylinder head
and block must be perfectly clean when the
head is refitted.
22Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces
of carbon and old gasket material, then clean
the mating surfaces with a suitable solvent. If
there’s oil on the mating surfaces when the
head is refitted, the gasket may not seal
correctly, and leaks could develop. When
working on the block, stuff the cylinders with
clean rags to keep out debris. Use a vacuum
cleaner to remove material that falls into the
cylinders.
23Check the block and head mating
surfaces for nicks, deep scratches and other
damage. If the damage is slight, it can be
removed with a file; if it’s excessive,
machining may be the only alternative.
24Use a tap of the correct size to chase the
threads in the head bolt holes, then clean the
holes with compressed air - make sure that
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•13
2A

Torque wrench settings (continued)Nm
Connecting rod cap bolts/nuts
M10 and M30 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
M20 and M40 engines
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten an additional 70°
Camshaft bearing caps (M40 engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Intermediate shaft sprocket-to-shaft bolt (M20 engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Oil supply tube bolt(s)
M6 (normal) and M8 (banjo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
M5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
* BMW recommend that the main bearing bolts are renewed as a matter of course.
2B•4 General engine overhaul procedures
1 General information
Included in this Part of Chapter 2 are the
general overhaul procedures for the cylinder
head and engine internal components.
The information ranges from advice
concerning preparation for an overhaul and
the purchase of new parts to detailed,
paragraph-by-paragraph procedures covering
removal and refitting of internal components
and the inspection of parts.
The following Sections have been written
based on the assumption that the engine has
been removed from the vehicle. For
information concerning in-vehicle engine
repair, as well as removal and refitting of the
external components necessary for the
overhaul, see Chapter 2A, and Section 7 of
this Part.
The Specifications included in this Part are
only those necessary for the inspection and
overhaul procedures which follow. Refer to
Part A for additional Specifications.
2 Engine overhaul-
general information
It’s not always easy to determine when, or
if, an engine should be completely
overhauled, as a number of factors must be
considered.
High mileage is not necessarily an
indication that an overhaul is needed, while
low mileage doesn’t preclude the need for an
overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably
the most important consideration. An engine
that’s had regular and frequent oil and filter
changes, as well as other required
maintenance, will most likely give many
thousands of miles of reliable service.
Conversely, a neglected engine may require
an overhaul very early in its life.
Excessive oil consumption is an indication
that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve
guides are in need of attention. Make sure
that oil leaks aren’t responsible before
deciding that the rings and/or guides are
worn. Perform a cylinder compression check
to determine the extent of the work required
(see Section 3).Check the oil pressure: Unscrew the oil
pressure sender unit, and connect an oil
pressure gauge in its place. Measure the oil
pressure with the engine at its normal
operating temperature. Compare your
readings to the oil pressures listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. If the readings are
significantly below these (and if the oil and oil
filter are in good condition), the crankshaft
bearings and/or the oil pump are probably
worn out. On M10 and M30 engines, the oil
pressure sender unit is located high on the left
rear of the cylinder head. On M20 engines, the
sender unit is threaded into the side of the
engine block, below the oil filter. On M40
engines, the sender unit is threaded into the
rear of the oil filter housing.
Loss of power, rough running, knocking or
metallic engine noises, excessive valve train
noise and high fuel consumption may also
point to the need for an overhaul, especially if
they’re all present at the same time. If a
complete tune-up doesn’t remedy the
situation, major mechanical work is the only
solution.
An engine overhaul involves restoring the
internal parts to the specifications of a new
engine. During an overhaul, new piston rings
are fitted and the cylinder walls are
reconditioned (rebored and/or honed). If a
rebore is done by an engineering works, new
oversize pistons will also be fitted. The main
bearings and connecting big-end bearings are
generally renewed and, if necessary, the
crankshaft may be reground to restore the
journals. Generally, the valves are serviced as
well, since they’re usually in less-than-perfect
condition at this point. While the engine is
being overhauled, other components, such as
the distributor, starter and alternator, can be
rebuilt as well. The end result should be a like-
new engine that will give many thousands of
trouble-free miles. Note: Critical cooling
system components such as the hoses,
drivebelts, thermostat and water pump MUST
be renewed when an engine is overhauled.
The radiator should be checked carefully, to
ensure that it isn’t clogged or leaking (see
Chapters 1 or 3). Also, we don’t recommend
overhauling the oil pump - always fit a new
one when an engine is rebuilt.
Before beginning the engine overhaul, read
through the entire procedure to familiarise
yourself with the scope and requirements ofthe job. Overhauling an engine isn’t difficult if
you follow all of the instructions carefully,
have the necessary tools and equipment and
pay close attention to all specifications;
however, it is time consuming. Plan on the
vehicle being tied up for a minimum of two
weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an
automotive machine shop for repair or recon-
ditioning. Check on availability of parts and
make sure that any necessary special tools
and equipment are obtained in advance. Most
work can be done with typical hand tools,
although a number of precision measuring
tools are required for inspecting parts to
determine if they must be replaced. Often an
automotive machine shop will handle the
inspection of parts and offer advice
concerning reconditioning and renewal. Note:
Always wait until the engine has been
completely disassembled and all components,
especially the engine block, have been
inspected before deciding what service and
repair operations must be performed by an
automotive machine shop. Since the block’s
condition will be the major factor to consider
when determining whether to overhaul the
original engine or buy a rebuilt one, never
purchase parts or have machine work done on
other components until the block has been
thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time
is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it doesn’t
pay to refit worn or substandard parts.
As a final note, to ensure maximum life and
minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine,
everything must be assembled with care, in a
spotlessly-clean environment.
3 Compression check
2
1A compression check will tell you what
mechanical condition the upper end (pistons,
rings, valves, head gaskets) of your engine is
in. Specifically, it can tell you if the
compression is down due to leakage caused
by worn piston rings, defective valves and
seats, or a blown head gasket. Note:The
engine must be at normal operating
temperature, and the battery must be fully-
charged, for this check.
2Begin by cleaning the area around the
spark plugs before you remove them
(compressed air should be used, if available,

otherwise a small brush or even a bicycle tyre
pump will work). The idea is to prevent dirt
from getting into the cylinders as the
compression check is being done.
3Remove all the spark plugs from the engine
(see Chapter 1).
4Block the throttle wide open, or have an
assistant hold the throttle pedal down.
5On carburettor models, disconnect the LT
lead from the coil. On fuel injection models,
disable the fuel pump and ignition circuit by
removing the main relay(see illustration).
This is to avoid the possibility of a fire from
fuel being sprayed in the engine
compartment. The location of the main relay is
generally near the fuse panel area under the
bonnet, but refer to Chapter 12 for the
specific location on your model.
6Fit the compression gauge in the No 1
spark plug hole (No 1 cylinder is nearest the
radiator).
7Turn the engine on the starter motor over at
least seven compression strokes, and watch
the gauge. The compression should build up
quickly in a healthy engine. Low compression
on the first stroke, followed by gradually-
increasing pressure on successive strokes,
indicates worn piston rings. A low
compression reading on the first stroke, which
doesn’t build up during successive strokes,
indicates leaking valves or a blown head
gasket (a cracked head could also be the
cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
Record the highest gauge reading obtained.
8Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders, and compare the results to the
compression listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations.
9If compression was low, add some engine
oil (about three squirts from a plunger-type oil
can) to each cylinder, through the spark plug
hole, and repeat the test.
10If the compression increases after the oil
is added, the piston rings are definitely worn.
If the compression doesn’t increasesignificantly, the leakage is occurring at the
valves or head gasket. Leakage past the
valves may be caused by burned valve seats
and/or faces or warped, cracked or bent
valves.
11If two adjacent cylinders have equally low
compression, there’s a strong possibility that
the head gasket between them is blown. The
appearance of coolant in the combustion
chambers or the crankcase would verify this
condition.
12If one cylinder is 20 percent lower than the
others, and the engine has a slightly rough
idle, a worn exhaust lobe on the camshaft
could be the cause.
13If the compression is unusually high, the
combustion chambers are probably coated
with carbon deposits. If that’s the case, the
cylinder head should be removed and
decarbonised.
14If compression is way down, or varies
greatly between cylinders, it would be a good
idea to have a leak-down test performed by a
garage. This test will pinpoint exactly
where the leakage is occurring and how
severe it is.
4 Engine removal-
methods and precautions
If you’ve decided that an engine must be
removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.
Locating a suitable place to work is
extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the vehicle, will
be needed. If a workshop or garage isn’t
available, at the very least a flat, level, clean
work surface made of concrete or asphalt is
required.
Cleaning the engine compartment and
engine before beginning the removal
procedure will help keep tools clean and
organised.
An engine hoist or A-frame will also be
necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine and accessories. Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in lifting the engine out of the vehicle.
If the engine is being removed by a novice,
a helper should be available. Advice and aid
from someone more experienced would also
be helpful. There are many instances when
one person cannot simultaneously perform all
of the operations required when lifting the
engine out of the vehicle.
Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange
for or obtain all the tools and equipment you’ll
need prior to beginning the job. Some of the
equipment necessary to perform engine
removal and refitting safely and with relative
ease are (in addition to an engine hoist) a
heavy-duty trolley jack, complete sets of
spanners and sockets as described in thefront of this manual, wooden blocks, and
plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for
mopping up spilled oil, coolant and fuel. If the
hoist must be hired, make sure that you
arrange for it in advance, and perform all of
the operations possible without it beforehand.
This will save you money and time.
Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for
quite a while. A machine shop will be required
to perform some of the work which the do-it-
yourselfer can’t accomplish without special
equipment. These establishments often have
a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea
to consult them before removing the engine,
in order to accurately estimate the amount of
time required to rebuild or repair components
that may need work.
Always be extremely careful when removing
and refitting the engine. Serious injury can
result from careless actions. Plan ahead, take
your time and a job of this nature, although
major, can be accomplished successfully.
Warning: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure.
Do not loosen any fittings or
remove any components until
after the system has been discharged by a
qualified engineer. Always wear eye
protection when disconnecting air
conditioning system fittings.
Caution: If removing the M40
engine, it is important not to turn
the engine upside-down for
longer than 10 minutes since it is
possible for the oil to drain out of the
hydraulic tappets. This would render the
tappets unserviceable, and damage could
possibly occur to the engine when it is
next started up.
5 Engine- removal and refitting
3
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code before
disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal1Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Chapter 4), then disconnect the negative
cable from the battery.
2Cover the wings and front panel, and
remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11). Special
pads are available to protect the wings, but an
old bedspread or blanket will also work.
3Remove the air cleaner housing and intake
ducts (see Chapter 4).
4Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
5Label the vacuum lines, emissions system
hoses, wiring connectors, earth straps and
fuel lines, to ensure correct refitting, then
General engine overhaul procedures 2B•5
3.5 As a safety precaution, before
performing a compression check, remove
the cover and the main relay (arrowed)
from the left side of the engine
compartment to disable the fuel and
ignition systems (525i model shown, other
models similar)
2B

detach them. Pieces of masking tape with
numbers or letters written on them work well
(see illustration).
6Label and detach all coolant hoses from the
engine (see Chapter 3).
7Remove the cooling fan, shroud and
radiator (see Chapter 3). Note:On the M40
engine, it is only necessary to remove the
cooling fan and shroud; however, prevent
damage to the radiator by covering it with a
piece of wood or cardboard.
8Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1).
9Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail
(see Chapter 4).
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area, and don’t work
in a garage where a natural gas-type
appliance (such as a water heater or
clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present.
If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
immediately with soap and water. When
you perform any kind of work on the fuel
system, wear safety glasses, and have a
fire extinguisher on hand.
10Disconnect the accelerator cable (see
Chapter 4) and kickdown linkage/speed
control cable (see Chapter 7B), if applicable,
from the engine.
11Where fitted, unbolt the power steering
pump (see Chapter 10). Leave the lines/hoses
attached, and make sure the pump is kept in
an upright position in the engine compartment
(use wire or rope to restrain it out of the way).
12On air-conditioned models, unbolt the
compressor (see Chapter 3) and set it aside,
or tie it up out of the way. Do not disconnect
the hoses.
13Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1) and
remove the filter. Remove the engine splash
guard from under the engine.
14Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5).15Remove the alternator (see Chapter 5).
This is not essential on all models, but it is a
good idea in any case to avoid accidental
damage.
16Unbolt the exhaust system from the
engine (see Chapter 4).
17If you’re working on a vehicle with an
automatic transmission, remove the torque
converter-to-driveplate fasteners (see
Chapter 7B). On the M40 engine, unbolt the
automatic transmission fluid coolant pipes
from the sump.
18Support the transmission with a jack.
Position a block of wood between them, to
prevent damage to the transmission. Special
transmission jacks with safety chains are
available - use one if possible.
19Attach an engine sling or a length of chain
to the lifting brackets on the engine. If the
brackets have been removed, the chain can
be bolted directly to the intake manifold studs,
but place a flat washer between the chain and
the nut, and tighten the nut all the way up to
the chain, to avoid the possibility of the studs
bending.
20Roll the hoist into position and connect
the sling to it. Take up the slack in the sling or
chain, but don’t lift the engine.
Warning: DO NOT place any part
of your body under the engine
when it’s supported only by a
hoist or other lifting device.
21On M10, M20 and M30 engines, remove
the transmission rear crossmember, and
slightly lower the rear of the transmission.
22Remove the transmission-to-engine block
bolts using a Torx socket. Note:The bolts
holding the bellhousing to the engine block
will require a swivel at the socket, and a very
long extension going back towards the
transmission.
23Remove the engine mounting-to-frame
bracket nuts. On the M40 engine, unbolt the
dampers from the mountings.
24Recheck to be sure nothing is still
connecting the engine to the transmission or
vehicle. Disconnect anything still remaining.
25Raise the engine slightly. Carefully work it
forwards to separate it from the transmission.
If you’re working on a vehicle with an
automatic transmission, you may find the
torque converter comes forward with theengine. If it stays with the transmission, leave
it, but you may find it easier to let it come
forward until it can be grasped easier and be
pulled from the crankshaft. Note:When
refitting the torque converter to the
transmission before the engine is refitted, be
sure to renew the transmission front pump
seal, which will probably be damaged when
the converter comes out with the engine.
Either method is acceptable, but be prepared
for some fluid to leak from the torque
converter if it comes out of the transmission. If
you’re working on a vehicle with a manual
transmission, draw the engine forwards until
the input shaft is completely disengaged from
the clutch. Slowly raise the engine out of the
engine compartment. Check carefully to make
sure everything is disconnected.
26Remove the flywheel/driveplate (and
where applicable, the engine rear plate), and
mount the engine on an engine stand (see
illustration). Do not turn the M40 engine
upside-down (see Cautionin Section 4).
Refitting
27Check the engine and transmission
mountings. If they’re worn or damaged, renew
them.
28Refit the flywheel or driveplate (see
Chapter 2A). If you’re working on a manual
transmission vehicle, refit the clutch and
pressure plate (see Chapter 7A). Now is a
good time to fit a new clutch.
29If the torque converter came out with the
engine during removal, carefully refit the
converter into the transmission before the
engine is lowered into the vehicle.
30Carefully lower the engine into the engine
compartment - make sure the engine
mountings line up.
31If you’re working on an automatic
transmission vehicle, guide the torque
converter onto the crankshaft following the
procedure outlined in Chapter 7B.
32If you’re working on a manual
transmission vehicle, apply a dab of high-
melting-point grease to the input shaft, and
guide it into the clutch and crankshaft pilot
bearing until the bellhousing is flush with the
engine block.. Do not allow the weight of the
engine to hang on the input shaft.
33Refit the transmission-to-engine bolts,
and tighten them securely.
Caution: DO NOT use the bolts to
force the transmission and
engine together.
34Refit the remaining components in the
reverse order of removal.
35Add coolant, oil, power steering and
transmission fluid as needed.
2B•6 General engine overhaul procedures
5.26 Removing the engine rear plate -
M40 engine5.5 Label each wire before unplugging the
connector
If there’s any possibility of
confusion, make a sketch of
the engine compartment and
clearly label the lines, hoses
and wires.
It may be necessary to rock
the engine slightly, or to turn
the crankshaft, to allow the
input shaft splines to mate
with the clutch plate

36Run the engine and check for leaks and
proper operation of all accessories, then refit
the bonnet and test drive the vehicle.
37Where necessary, have the air
conditioning system recharged and leak-
tested.
6 Engine overhaul- alternatives
The do-it-yourselfer is faced with a number
of options when performing an engine
overhaul. The decision to renew the engine
block, piston/connecting rod assemblies and
crankshaft depends on a number of factors,
with the number one consideration being the
condition of the block. Other considerations
are cost, access to machine shop facilities,
parts availability, time required to complete
the project, and the extent of prior mechanical
experience on the part of the do-it-yourselfer.
Some of the alternatives include:
Individual parts - If the inspection
procedures reveal that the engine block and
most engine components are in re-usable
condition, purchasing individual parts may be
the most economical alternative. The block,
crankshaft and piston/connecting rod
assemblies should all be inspected carefully.
Even if the block shows little wear, the
cylinder bores should be surface-honed.
Crankshaft kit- A crankshaft kit (where
available) consists of a reground crankshaft
with matched undersize new main and
connecting big-end bearings. Sometimes,
reconditioned connecting rods and new
pistons and rings are included with the kit
(such a kit is sometimes called an “engine
kit”). If the block is in good condition, but the
crankshaft journals are scored or worn, a
crankshaft kit and other individual parts may
be the most economical alternative.
Short block- A short block consists of an
engine block with a crankshaft and
piston/connecting rod assemblies already
fitted. New bearings are fitted, and all
clearances will be correct. The existing
camshaft, valve train components, cylinder
head and external parts can be bolted to the
short block with little or no machine shop
work necessary.
Full block - A “full” or “complete” block
consists of a short block plus an oil pump,
sump, cylinder head, valve cover, camshaft
and valve train components, timing sprockets
and chain (or belt) and timing cover. All
components are fitted with new bearings,
seals and gaskets used throughout. The
refitting of manifolds and external parts is all
that’s necessary.
Give careful thought to which alternative is
best for you, and discuss the situation with
local machine shops, parts dealers and
experienced rebuilders before ordering or
purchasing new parts.
7 Engine overhaul-
dismantling sequence
1It’s much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it’s mounted on a portable
engine stand. A stand can often be hired quite
cheaply from a tool hire shop. Before the
engine is mounted on a stand, the
flywheel/driveplate should be removed from
the engine.
2If a stand isn’t available, it’s possible to
dismantle the engine with it blocked up on the
floor. Be extra-careful not to tip or drop the
engine when working without a stand.
3If you’re going to obtain a rebuilt engine, all
the external components listed below must
come off first, to be transferred to the new
engine if applicable. This is also the case if
you’re doing a complete engine overhaul
yourself. Note:When removing the external
components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins,
brackets, washers, bolts and other small items.
Alternator and brackets
Emissions control components
Distributor, HT leads and spark plugs
Thermostat and housing cover
Water pump
Fuel injection/carburettor and fuel system
components
Intake and exhaust manifolds
Oil filter and oil pressure sending unit
Engine mounting brackets (see illustration)
Clutch and flywheel/driveplate
Engine rear plate (where applicable)
4If you’re obtaining a short block, which
consists of the engine block, crankshaft,
pistons and connecting rods all assembled,
then the cylinder head, sump and oil pump
will have to be removed as well. See Section 6
for additional information regarding the
different possibilities to be considered.
5If you’re planning a complete overhaul, the
engine must be dismantled and the internal
components removed in the following general
order:
Valve cover
Intake and exhaust manifolds
Timing belt or chain covers
Timing chain/belt
Water pump
Cylinder head
Sump
Oil pump
Piston/connecting rod assemblies
Crankshaft and main bearings
Camshaft
Rocker shafts and rocker arms (M10, M20
and M30 engines)
Cam followers and hydraulic tappets
(M40 engine)
Valve spring retainers and springs
Valves
6Before beginning the dismantling andoverhaul procedures, make sure the following
items are available. Also, refer to Section 21
for a list of tools and materials needed for
engine reassembly.
Common hand tools
Small cardboard boxes or plastic bags for
storing parts
Compartment-type metal box for storing
the hydraulic tappets (M40 engine)
Gasket scraper
Ridge reamer
Vibration damper puller
Micrometers
Telescoping gauges
Dial indicator set
Valve spring compressor
Cylinder surfacing hone
Piston ring groove cleaning tool
Electric drill motor
Tap and die set
Wire brushes
Oil gallery brushes
Cleaning solvent
8 Cylinder head- dismantling
4
1Remove the cylinder head (see Chapter 2A).
2Remove the oil supply tube from its
mounting on top of the cylinder head (see
illustrations). Note:It’s important to renew
the seals under the tube mounting bolts.
General engine overhaul procedures 2B•7
7.3 Engine left-hand mounting bracket -
M40 engine
8.2a Remove the oil tube from the top of
the cylinder head (M10 engine). Be sure to
note the location of all gaskets and
washers for reassembly
2B