Section 6 BMW 528i 1998 E39 Owner's Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: BMW, Model Year: 1998, Model line: 528i, Model: BMW 528i 1998 E39Pages: 1002
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Driveshaft
Repair kits for the universal joint are not available for BMW
driveshafts.
A worn or damaged universal joint usually require
replacement of the driveshaft.
The driveshaft is balanced to close tolerances. Whenever it is
to be removed or disassembled, the mounting flanges and
driveshaft sections should be marked with paint or a punch
before proceeding with work. This will ensure that the
drive-
shaft can be reassembled and installed in exactly the original
orientation.
1. Rear section of drive shaft
2. Hex bolt, MI2 x 1.5 x 25
3. Knurled bolt
4. Clamp
5. Reinforcement
6. Seal
7. Constant velocity joint
8. Circlip
9. Hex nut
10. Hex bolt, M12x 1.5~58
11. Centering sleeve
12. Flexible disk
13. Self-locking hex nut
14. Front section of driveshaft
15. Center bearing
16. Dust cover (some models)
17. Spacer (some models) -
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Driveshaft, aligning
The alignment of the driveshaft does not normally need to be
checked unless the engineltransmission or the final drive
have been removed and installed. if ail other parts of the
driveshaft have been inspected and found to be okay, but
there is still noise or vibration, driveshaft alignment should be
checked.
There are two important driveshaft alignment checks. The
first is to make sure that the driveshaft runs straight from the
transmission to the final drive, without any variation from
side-
to-side caused by misalignment of the engineltransmission in
its mounts. Make a basic check by sighting along the
drive-
shaft from back to front. Any misalignment should be appar-
ent from the center bearing forward.
To adjust the side-to-side alignment, loosen transmission or
engine mounts to reposition them, then retighten mounts.
The driveshaft should be exactly centered in driveshaft tun-
nel.
The second important driveshaft alignment check is more
complicated. It checlts the amount the driveshaft is angled
vertically at the joints. This angle is
lknown as driveshaft
deflection.
In general, there should be little deflection in the driveshaft
between the engine, the center bearing, and the final drive.
Precise checks require the use of a large protractor or some
other means of measuring the angle of the engine and the fi-
nal drive and comparing these angles to the angle of the
. . driveshaft sections.
- To change the deflection angle, shims can be placed be-
tween the center bearing and the body or between the trans-
mission and its rear support. When using shims to change a
deflection angle, keep in mind that the angle of adjacent
joints will also change. Deflection angles should be as small
as
oossible.
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-.- .
/ Driveshaft Driveshaft, removing
CAUTION-
. Be sure the wheels are off the ground before removing the
driveshak Set the parl(ing brake before removing the
driveshaft.
Once the driveshaft has been removed, the vehicle can
roll regardless of whether the transmission is in gear or
not.
The driveshaft is mounted to the transmission and final
drive
with self-locliing nuts. These nuts are designed to
be used only once and should be replaced during reas-
sembly.
Remove complete exhaust system. See
180 Exhaust
System.
- Remove exhaust heat shields.
- Support transmission with transmission jack.
< Loosen transmission mount nuts (arrows) on real
transmission support crossmember.
- Release wiring harness retainers from rear transmission
support crossmember.
< Remove mounting bolts (arrows) for rear transmission sup-
port crossmember. Slide crossmember rearward to remove.
- Matchmark front and rear driveshaft halves to corresponding
transmission output and final drive input flanges.
4 Remove nuts securing driveshaft mounting bolts at transmis-
sion output flange. Counterhold bolts (arrows) at transmis-
sion flex-disc. Discard old nuts.
- Hang driveshaft front section from body using stiff wire.
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4 Remove nuts (arrows) from constant velocity joint mounting
bolts at final drive. Pry constant velocity joint free from final
drive input flange at groove
(A).
- Hang driveshaft rear section from body using stiff wire.
< Do not let driveshaft hang unsupported, as rear CV joint rub-
ber boot (arrow) may be damaged.
4 Remove center support bearing mounting nuts (arrows)
- Remove driveshaft. Pull down on center of driveshaft to
facilitate removal.
CAUTIOI\C
Protect CVjoint with plastic cover.
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Driveshaft
- Road test vehicle to check for noise or vibration
CAUTION-
Do not reuse self-locking nuts. These nuts are designed to
be used only once.
Avoid stressing the flex-disc when torquing the bolts.
Do this by counterholding the bolts and turning the nuts
on the flange side.
Tightening torques
Alunlinum driveshaft to flex-disc
- MI2 (use coated washers)
90 Nm (66 ft-lb)
Driveshaft
CV joint to final drive flange
Mi0 (Tom bolt)
70 Nm (51 ft-lb)
M8 (compression nut) 32 Nm (24 ft-lb)
Flex-disc to transmission flange or driveshaft
MI0 (8.8 grade) 48 Nm (35 ft-lb)
MI 0 (1 0.9 grade) 60 Nm (44 ft-lb)
- Mi2 (8.8 grade)
81 Nm (60 ft-lb)
- MI2 (10.9 grade) I00 Nm (74 ft-lb)
MI4 140 Nm (103 ft-lb)
Transmission
crossmember
to transmission (ME) 21 Nm (15 ft-lb)
. to chassis (M10) 42 Nm (30 ft-lb)
NOTE-
Boltgrade is marked on the bolt head. When replacing bolts,
only use bolts of the same strength and hardness as the orig-
inals installed.
Flex-disc, replacing
- Checlc flex-disc between front section of driveshafl and trans-
mission output flange for craclts, tears, missing pieces, or
distortion. Check for worn bolt hole bores in flange.
- If flex-disc needs replacement, remove driveshafl as de-
scribed earlier.
- Unbolt flex-disc from driveshaft.
NOTE-
Removal andinstallation of the bolts may be made easier by
placing a large hose clamp around the flex-disc, and tighten-
ing the clamp slightly to compress the rubber.
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260-1 2
1 Driveshaft
Install new flex-disc using new self-locking nuts. Molded ar-
rows (arrows) on coupling should point towards flange arms.
4 On vehicles with aluminum driveshaft, use coated washers to
prevent contact corrosion.
- Counterhold bolts while tightening nuts.
Tightening torque
Aluminum driveshaft to flex-disc
M12 (use coated washers) 90
Nm (66 ft-lb)
Steel driveshaft to flex-disc
MI0 (8.8 grade) 48
Nm (35 ft-lb)
- MI0 (10.9 grade) 60 Nm (44 ft-lb)
Coated washers - MI2 (8.8 grade) 5027500 . Mi2 (10.9 grade)
M14 81
Nm (60 ft-lb) 100 Nm (74 ft-lb)
140 Nm (103 ft-lb)
- Install driveshaft as described earlier
Center bearing assembly, replacing
The center bearing assembly consists of a grooved ball bear-
ing in a rubber mount. The bearing assembly is pressed
the driveshaft.
- Remove driveshaft. See Driveshaft, removing
- Matchmark front and rear driveshaft sections before
separating.
Remove bolt (arrow) securing front and rear halves of
driveshaft and pull driveshaft apart.
- Remove shim and dust shield, where fitted
- Use puller to remove center bearing assembly from
driveshaft. onto
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260-14
Driveshaft
Constant velocity (CV) joint, replacing
The CV joint at the rear of the driveshaft is available from
BMW as a separate part.
- Remove complete driveshaft as described earlier in this
section.
< Clean grease off CV joint. Remove retaining circlip (arrow)
from CV joint end of driveshaft.
- Drive out bolts from CV joint.
4 Remove CV joint from driveshaft:
Pry back protective boot
(A).
- Using BMW special tool 26 1 110 on inner race (B), press
or pull joint off shaft.
- Check protective boot for damage. Replace if necessary.
- lnstall new CV joint:
. Working from both sides of joint, inject approximately 80
grams of
OptimolB grease (or equivalent) into joint.
Install new sealing gasket on joint face that mates with pro-
tective boot. Seal fits in groove on outer race of joint.
Clean grease off driveshaft and mating splines on joint.
Apply
LoctiteO 648 to driveshaft splines.
Press new CV joint onto shaft as far as it will go.
CAUTIOI\C
Only press on inner CVjoint race.
- Install new retaining circlip to end of driveshaft,
- Insert CV joint mounting bolts. Be sure to reuse washers.
- Install driveshaft as described earlier in this section.
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[~us~ension, Steering and Brakes - General
This section of the manual covers front and rear suspension,
braking and steering systems, and contains wheel, tire and
wheel alignment information and specifications. Also covered
here are the integrated braking and suspension systems in-
cluding
antilock braking (ABS), traction control (ASCIDSC),
and electronic height control (EHC).
Vehicle ride height information is at the end of this repair
group. Alignment information is in
320 Steering and Wheel
Alignment.
Aluminum suspension components
In order to reduce vehicle weight, aluminum suspension com-
ponents are used in some models. A test with a magnet will
easily reveal the metal used. If working with aluminum com-
ponents, be sure to read and follow the cautions below.
CAUTION-
* Due to the chemical and corrosion characteristics of alumi-
num, do not bring into contact with battery acid.
Do not use wire brushes with brass or iron bristles.
Only use brushes with stainless steel bristles.
Do not expose to flying sparks from
grinding/cutting op-
erations.
Do not subject to steel welding splashes.
Do not expose to temperatures over
80°C (176"F),
even for short periods. Temperatures in painting facili-
ties are not a problem.
The E39 front suspension subframe is used as a rigid mount-
ing platform for the front suspension arms, stabilizer bar and
steering gear.
The suspension arms, known as the lower control arms and
the tension struts (thrust arms), are connected to the
sub-
frame through rubber bushings. The arms are connected to
the steering
knucltles in a double pivot configuration.
Each front strut assembly includes a tubular strut and a coil
spring. The upper strut mount includes a bearing. The lower
end of each strut housing is fitted to the steering knuckle. The
integral wheel bearing and hub are bolted to the steering
Iknucltle.
6-cylinder and V-8 models use different steering systems and
other front suspension components.
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330-5
Rear Suspension
REAR STRUTS AND SPRINGS
(SEDAN MODELS)
Rear strut assembly, removing and
installing
Replace struts and coil springs in pairs only.
- Raise car and remove rear wheels.
WARNING -
Male sure the car is firmly supported on jack stands de-
signed for the purpose. Place jack stands underneath struc-
tural chassis points. Do not place jack stands under
suspension parts.
- Remove rear parcel shelf:
Remove rear seat headrests by pulling straight up.
Remove both rear roof pillar (C-pillar) trim panels.
Unbolt rear seat
belt anchors. See 720 Seat Belts.
Models with fixed rear seat: Remove rear seat backrest.
See 520 Seats.
* Models with fold-down rear seat: Remove rear seat back-
rest side sections. See 520 Seats. Fold down backrest.
* Working inside trunk, remove roller blind mounting nuts
and bolts, if applicable. Also disconnect roller blind har-
ness connector at right edge of rear seat backrest.
Gently pry rear speaker cover grilles and rear window defog-
ger grilles
(A) out of parcel shelf.
Carefully remove seat belt and headrest mount finisher
strips (B).
Remove
middle seat headrest anchor bolts (C). Remove
headrest anchor.
Remove expansion rivets (arrows) and lift out parcel shelf.
- Remove rear speakers.
- Remove rear wheels. Remove wheel arch trim
- Support rear wheel bearing carrier.
CAUTION-
The strutassembly prevents the drive axle and wheel bearing
carrier
from dropping too far. Supporting the wheel bearing
carrierbefore disconnecting the strut mounting fasteners pre-
vents damage to the brake hose, parking brake cable and
drive axle
CV joints.
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400-2
Body-General
This chapter covers system descriptions and general infor-
mation for the repair groups found in sections
4 Body and
5 Body Equipment.
Body dimensions (in inches)
E39 sedan E39
Sport Wagon