lock BUICK CENTURY 2003 Repair Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: BUICK, Model Year: 2003, Model line: CENTURY, Model: BUICK CENTURY 2003Pages: 344, PDF Size: 2.57 MB
Page 196 of 344

Total Weight on Your Vehicle's Tires
Be sure your vehicle's tires are in¯ated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You'll ®nd these numbers on the
Tire-Loading Information label (found inside the trunk
lid) or see
Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. Then be
sure you don't go over the GVW limit for your vehicle,
including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It's important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you'll need the right hitch. Here
are some rules to follow:
·The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
·Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then
be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the
hitch. If you don't seal them, deadly carbon monoxide
(CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle.
See
Engine Exhaust on page 2-30. Dirt and
water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if
it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer's
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not
attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough
slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow
safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap
into your vehicle's brake system. If you do, both brake
systems won't work well, or at all.
4-38
Page 208 of 344

While refueling, let the fuel cap hang by the tether
below the fuel ®ll opening.
To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left
(counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if you
let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.
{CAUTION:
If you spill fuel and then something ignites it,
you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out
on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This
spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and
is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap
slowly and wait for any ªhissº noise to stop.
Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. don't top off or over®ll your
tank, and wait a few seconds after you've ®nished
pumping before you remove the nozzle. Clean fuel from
painted surfaces as soon as possible. See
Cleaning
the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-82.
5-8
Page 209 of 344

When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right
(clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make
sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can
determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly
installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the
atmosphere. See
Malfunction Indicator Lamp on
page 3-31.
{CAUTION:
If a ®re starts while you're refueling, don't
remove the nozzle. Shut off the ¯ow of fuel by
shutting off the pump or by notifying the
station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
Notice:If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get
the right type. Your dealer can get one for you.
If you get the wrong type, it may not ®t properly.
This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to
light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions
system. See ªMalfunction Indicator Lampº in the
Index.
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
{CAUTION:
Never ®ll a portable fuel container while it is in
your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from
the container can ignite the gasoline vapor.
You can be badly burned and your vehicle
damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to
you and others:
·Dispense gasoline only into approved
containers.
·Do not ®ll a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle's trunk, pickup bed or
on any surface other than the ground.
·Bring the ®ll nozzle in contact with the
inside of the ®ll opening before operating
the nozzle. Contact should be maintained
until the ®lling is complete.
·Don't smoke while pumping gasoline.
5-9
Page 213 of 344

A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. SeeWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 5-38.
B. Battery. See
Battery on page 5-42.
C. Underhood Fuse Block. See
Fuses and Circuit
Breakers on page 5-89.
D. Remote Positive (+) Battery Terminal. See
Jump
Starting on page 5-43.
E. Radiator Pressure Cap. See
Radiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-26.
F. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See
Engine Coolant
on page 5-23.
G. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See
Power Steering
Fluid on page 5-36.
H. Electric Engine Cooling Fan. See
Jump Starting on
page 5-43.
I. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See
Engine Oil on page 5-13.
J. Engine Oil Dipstick. See
Engine Oil on page 5-13.
K. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See
Automatic
Transaxle Fluid on page 5-19.
L. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See
Brakes on page 5-39.
M. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See
Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It's a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick
handle is the yellow loop
located near the front
of the engine. See
Engine
Compartment Overview
on page 5-12
for more
information on location.
Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to
drain back into the oil pan. If you don't, the oil
dipstick might not show the actual level.
5-13
Page 218 of 344

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
location of engine air cleaner/®lter.
When to Inspect
Inspect the air cleaner/®lter every 15,000 miles
(25,000 km) and replace every 30,000 miles
(50,000 km). If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions,
inspect the ®lter at each engine oil change.
How to Inspect
To inspect the air cleaner/®lter remove it from the
vehicle andlightlyshake the ®lter to release loose dust
and dirt. If the ®lter remains ªcakedº with dirt, a new
®lter is required.
To check or replace the engine air cleaner/®lter, do the
following:
1. Loosen the screw and clamp on the air duct.2. Lift up on the two clips
located on the top of
the ®lter assembly
to unlock the cover.
3. Disconnect the duct and reposition it while removing
the cover.
4. Pull out the ®lter.
5. Inspect or replace the ®lter if needed.
6. Reinstall the ®lter.
7. Push down on the two clips located on top of the
®lter assembly to lock the cover.
5-18
Page 233 of 344

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator
Notice:Your engine has a speci®c radiator
®ll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could
cause your engine to overheat and be severely
damaged.
1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when
the cooling system, including the radiator pressure
cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.
Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until
it ®rst stops. (Don't press down while turning the
pressure cap.)If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss
means there is still some pressure left.
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push
down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.
5-33
Page 250 of 344

A. Vertical Aim Adjustment Screw
B. Horizontal Aim Adjustment Screw
Open the hood and locate the vertical and horizontal
aim indicators. The aiming screw for the vertical
aim indicator (A) is at the center of the headlamp cover
and the aiming screw for the horizontal aim indicator
is on the outboard side of the headlamp cover (B).A. Horizontal Aim Adjustment Screw
B. Horizontal Block Index Plate
C. Vertical Aiming Level
Start with the horizontal aim. The adjustment screws
can be turned with an E8 Torx
žsocket.
Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the
vertical aim.
1. Turn the horizontal aiming screw until the indicator
is lined up with zero.
2. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the level bubble
is lined up with zero. Driver's Side Headlamp Shown
Passenger's Side Headlamp Shown
5-50
Page 252 of 344

5. Remove the rubber access cover from behind the
bulb you are replacing.
6. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter turn and remove it
from the headlamp assembly.
7. Lift the plastic locking tab on the electrical connector
and pull the connector from the headlamp bulb
socket.
8. Connect the new headlamp bulb to the electrical
connector, making sure the connector tab snaps
into place.9. Insert the bulb socket into the headlamp assembly.
10. Reverse all steps to reassemble the headlamp
assembly, then check the lamps.
Front Turn Signal and Parking
Lamps
1. Remove the headlamp assembly. Refer to the
removal procedure earlier in this section.
2. Remove the rubber bulb access cover.
3. Twist the sidemarker lamp socket, located on the
outboard side of the headlamp assembly,
counterclockwise and pull it from the headlamp
assembly.
4. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old bulb
from the socket.
5. Push the new bulb into the socket.
6. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the lamp
assembly.
5-52
Page 253 of 344

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp
(CHMSL)
1. Open the trunk.
2. Reach through the access opening in the trunk lid.3. Remove the old bulb by turning it one-quarter turn
counterclockwise.
4. Push the new bulb into the bulb socket.
5. Turn the socket one-quarter turn clockwise to
reinstall.
5-53
Page 254 of 344

Taillamps, Turn Signal, and
Stoplamps1. Open the trunk.
2. If your vehicle is equipped with a convenience net,
remove it.
3. Remove the three plastic wing nuts (A).
There is one wing nut located on the outside of the
carpet. The other two are located underneath
the carpet.
4. Pull the taillamp housing (B) away from the body of
the vehicle.
5. Squeeze the tab on the socket and turn the socket
counterclockwise.
6. Pull out the socket.
7. Pull the old bulb out of the socket. (There are two
bulbs on each taillamp.)
8. Push in a new bulb.
9. Reverse these steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.
5-54