lock BUICK RAINIER 2004 Manual PDF

Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems (brakes,
steering and acceleration) do not have enough friction
where the tires meet the road to do what the driver
has asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer
and constantly seek an escape route or area of less
danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving”
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.If you have the Traction Assist System, remember: It
helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If you do not have
this system, or if the system is off, then an acceleration
skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the
accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel or other material is on the road. For safety,
you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration
or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a
lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery
until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice or packed snow
on the road to make a “mirrored surface” — and slow
down when you have any doubt.
Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps
avoid only the braking skid.
4-15

Environmental Concerns
Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying
recreation. However, it also raises environmental
concerns. We recognize these concerns and urge every
off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting
the environment:
Always use established trails, roads and areas that
have been specially set aside for public off-road
recreational driving; obey all posted regulations.
Avoid any driving practice that could damage
the environment — shrubs, owers, trees,
grasses — or disturb wildlife (this includes
wheel-spinning, breaking down trees or unnecessary
driving through streams or over soft ground).
Always carry a liter bag — make sure all refuse is
removed from any campsite before leaving.
Take extreme care with open res (where permitted),
camp stoves and lanterns.
Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other
combustible materials that could catch re form the
heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.
Traveling to Remote Areas
It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going
to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your
route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises.
Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of
any blocked or closed roads.
It is also a good idea to travel with at least one other
vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other
can help quickly.
Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving
It is a good idea to practice in an area that is safe
and close to home before you go into the wilderness.
Off- road driving does require some new and different
driving skills. Here is what we mean.
Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your
eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain
for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen
for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms,
hands, feet and body, you will need to respond to
vibrations and vehicle bounce.
4-18

Approaching a Hill
When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it is
one of those hills that is just too steep to climb, descend
or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very
small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant
incline with only a small change in elevation where
you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill,
the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but
you may not see this because the crest of the hill
is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs.
Here are some other things to consider as you approach
a hill.
Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get
sharply steeper in places?
Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the
surface cause tire slipping?
Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you
will not have to make turning maneuvers?
Are there obstructions on the hill that can block
your path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)?
What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an
embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk
the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to
nd out.
Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have
ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because
they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.
4-21

Q:What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is
about to stall, and I can not make it up
the hill?
A:If this happens, there are some things you should
do, and there are some things you must not do?
First, here is what youshoulddo:
Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep
it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking
brake.
If your engine is still running, shift the transmission
to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).
If your engine has stopped running, you will need to
restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the
parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to
PARK (P) and restart the engine. Then shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake,
and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible
in REVERSE (R).
As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position.
This way you will be able to tell if your wheels are
straight and maneuver as you back down. It is
best that you back down the hill with your wheels
straight rather than in the left or right direction.
Turning the wheel too far to the left or right
will increase the possibility of a rollover.Here are some things youmust notdo if you stall,
or are about to stall, when going up a hill.
Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N) to “rev-up” the engine and regain
forward momentum. This will not work. Your vehicle
will roll backwards very quickly and you could go
out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle.
Then apply the parking brake. Shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back straight down.
Never attempt to turn around if you are about to
stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep
enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough to
cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can
not make it up the hill you must back straight
down the hill.
Q:Suppose, after stalling, I try to back downthe hill
and decide I just can not do it. What should I do?
A:Set the parking brake, put your transmission in
PARK (P) and turn off the engine. Leave the
vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill
side and stay clear of the path the vehicle
would take if it rolled downhill.
4-23

Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Even though you have an anti-lock braking system,
you will want to begin stopping sooner that you would
on dry pavement. SeeBraking on page 4-6.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne until
you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can not reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads are
clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake
before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are
actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with
your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near
help and you can hike through the snow. Here are
some things to do to summon help and keep yourself
and your passengers safe:
Turn on your hazard ashers.
Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that
you have been stopped by the snow.
4-42

Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
oor mats — anything you can wrap around
yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You can not
see it or smell it, so you might not know it
is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially
any that is blocking your exhaust pipe.
And check around again from time to time
to be sure snow does not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of
the vehicle that is away from the wind.
This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly.
4-43

Electronically Controlled Air
Suspension System
This system automatically keeps your vehicle level as
you load and unload. The system includes a
compressor, two height sensors and two air springs
supporting the rear axle.
The system also has an internal clock to prevent
overheating. If the system overheats, all leveling function
stops until the system cools down. During this time, the
indicator light on the air inator system will be ashing.
The ignition has to be on for the system to inate, in
order to raise the vehicle to the standard ride height after
loading. The system can lower the vehicle to the
standard ride height after unloading with the ignition on
and also for up to 30 minutes after the ignition has
been turned off.
You may hear the compressor operating when you load
your vehicle, and periodically as the system adjusts
the vehicle to the standard ride height.
Load leveling will not function normally with the inator
hose attached to the inator outlet. Remove the inator
hose from the outlet during loading and unloading.
If the vehicle is parked for an extended period of time,
some bleed down of the suspension is normal. Upon
starting the vehicle, proper height will be achieved.
Overload Protection
The air suspension system is equipped with overload
protection. Overload protection is designed to protect the
air suspension system, and it is an indicator to the
driver that the vehicle is overloaded. When the overload
protection mode is on, it will not allow damage to the
air compressor. However, do not overload the vehicle.
SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.
If the suspension remains at a low height, the rear axle
load has exceeded GAWR (Gross Axle Weight
Rating). When the overload protection mode is activated,
the compressor operates for about 30 seconds to one
minute without raising the vehicle depending on the
amount of overload. This will continue each time
the ignition is turned on until the rear axle load is
reduced below GAWR.
Indicator Light
The indicator light on the inator switch in the rear
passenger compartment also serves as an indicator for
internal system error. If the indicator light is ashing
without the load leveling function or the inator being
active, turn off the ignition. The next day turn on
the ignition and check the indicator light. The vehicle
can be driven with the light ashing, but if it is you
should have the vehicle serviced as soon as possible.
4-52

While refueling, hang the fuel cap by the tether using
the hook located on the inside of the ller door.
To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left
(counterclockwise).
{CAUTION:
If you spill fuel and then something ignites it,
you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out
on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This
spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and
is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap
slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop.
Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Don’t top off or overll your
tank, and wait a few seconds after you’ve nished
pumping before you remove the nozzle. Clean fuel from
painted surfaces as soon as possible. SeeCleaning
the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-96.
5-9

When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right
(clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make
sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system
can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or
improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate
into the atmosphere. SeeMalfunction Indicator
Lamp on page 3-35.
{CAUTION:
If a re starts while you are refueling, do not
remove the nozzle. Shut off the ow of fuel
by shutting off the pump or by notifying the
station attendant. Leave the area immediately.Notice:If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get
the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you
get the wrong type, it may not t properly. This may
cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and
may damage your fuel tank and emissions system.
SeeMalfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-35.
5-10

A. Coolant Recovery Tank.
SeeEngine Coolant on page 5-27.
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter.
SeeEngine Air Cleaner/Filter
on page 5-23.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir.
SeeWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-40.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir.
SeePower Steering Fluid
on page 5-39.
E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick.
SeeAutomatic Transmission Fluid
on page 5-24.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick.
SeeEngine Oil on page 5-18.G. Radiator Pressure Cap.
SeeRadiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-29.
H. Engine Oil Fill Cap.
SeeEngine Oil on page 5-18.
I. Remote Negative (–) TerminalMarked GND.
SeeJump Starting on page 5-45.
J. Brake Master Cylinder.
SeeBrakes on page 5-41.
K. Battery.
SeeBattery on page 5-44.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block.
See “Engine Compartment Fuse Block” under
Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-103.
5-15