light BUICK RAINIER 2007 Owner's Manual

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble.
On a wet road, you cannot stop, accelerate, or turn
as well because your tire-to-road traction is not
as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires do not
have much tread left, you will get even less
traction. It is always wise to go slower and be
cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving.
The surface may get wet suddenly when your
reexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see.
Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good
shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see
road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings,
the edge of the road, and even people walking.
It is wise to keep your wiping equipment in
good shape and keep your windshield washer
uid reservoir lled with washer uid. Replace your
windshield wiper inserts when they show signs
of streaking or missing areas on the windshield,
or when strips of rubber start to separate from
the inserts.
{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They may
not work as well in a quick stop and may
cause pulling to one side. You could lose
control of the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of
water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal
lightly until your brakes work normally.
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Driving too fast through large water puddles or
even going through some car washes can cause
problems, too. The water may affect your brakes.
Try to avoid puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow
down before you hit them.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can
build up under your tires that they can actually ride
on the water. This can happen if the road is wet
enough and you are going fast enough. When your
vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact
with the road.
Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can
if your tires do not have much tread or if the
pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a
lot of water is standing on the road. If you can
see reections from trees, telephone poles,
or other vehicles, and raindrops dimple the water’s
surface, there could be hydroplaning.Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds.
There just is not a hard and fast rule about
hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down
when it is raining.
Driving Through Deep Standing Water
Notice:If you drive too quickly through
deep puddles or standing water, water can
come in through your engine’s air intake and
badly damage your engine. Never drive through
water that is slightly lower than the underbody
of your vehicle. If you cannot avoid deep
puddles or standing water, drive through them
very slowly.
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City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city streets is
the amount of traffic on them. You will want
to watch out for what the other drivers are doing
and pay attention to traffic signals.Here are ways to increase your safety in city
driving:
Know the best way to get to where you are
going. Get a city map and plan your trip
into an unknown part of the city just as you
would for a cross-country trip.
Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross
most large cities. You will save time and
energy. SeeFreeway Driving on page 320.
Treat a green light as a warning signal.
A traffic light is there because the corner is
busy enough to need it. When a light turns
green, and just before you start to move,
check both ways for vehicles that have not
cleared the intersection or may be running the
red light.
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Before changing lanes, check your mirrors.
Then use your turn signal.
Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly
over your shoulder to make sure there is not
another vehicle in your blind spot.
Once you are moving on the freeway, make
certain you allow a reasonable following distance.
Expect to move slightly slower at night.
When you want to leave the freeway, move to the
proper lane well in advance. If you miss your
exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and
back up. Drive on to the next exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite
sharply. The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your
speedometer, not to your sense of motion.
After driving for any distance at higher speeds,
you may tend to think you are going slower than
you actually are.Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested.
If you must start when you are not fresh — such as
after a day’s work — do not plan to make too
many miles that rst part of the journey. Wear
comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily
drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it
needs service, have it done before starting out.
Of course, you will nd experienced and able
service experts in GM dealerships all across
North America. They will be ready and willing to
help if you need it.
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Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You may want to put winter emergency
supplies in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 411.Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom,
a supply of windshield washer uid, a rag,
some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a
ashlight, a red cloth, and reective warning
triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe
conditions, include a small bag of sand, a
piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags
to help provide traction. Be sure you properly
secure these items in your vehicle.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be
careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO
(carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO
could overcome you and kill you. You
cannot see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away
snow from around the base of your
vehicle, especially any that is blocking
your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow
does not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of
the vehicle that is away from the wind.
This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must.
This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it
go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the
accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat
that you get and it keeps the battery charged.
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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right.
That will clear the area around the front wheels.
Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R)
and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as
little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal
while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that
may free your vehicle. If that does not get
your vehicle out after a few tries, it may need to
be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be
towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 337.
Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the
vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of
all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed
options. Two labels on your vehicle show how
much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire and
Loading Information label and the Certication/Tire
label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than
the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR),
or either the maximum front or rear Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do,
parts on your vehicle can break, and it
can change the way your vehicle handles.
These could cause you to lose control
and crash. Also, overloading can shorten
the life of your vehicle.
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Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
Consult your dealer or a professional towing
service if you need to have your disabled vehicle
towed. SeeRoadside Assistance Program on
page 504.
If you want to tow your vehicle behind another
vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind
a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing”
following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your
vehicle behind another vehicle — such as behind
a motorhome. The two most common types of
recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy
towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels
on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your
vehicle with two wheels on the ground and
two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with
any of its wheels on the ground. If your vehicle
must be towed, see “Towing Your Vehicle” earlier
in this section.
Notice:Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with
all four wheels on the ground, or even with
only two of its wheels on the ground, will
damage drivetrain components. Do not tow an
all-wheel-drive vehicle if any of its wheels
will be on the ground.
Electronically Controlled Air
Suspension System
Your vehicle is equipped with an electronically
controlled air suspension system that automatically
keeps your vehicle level as you load and unload.
The system includes a compressor, two height
sensors, and two air springs supporting the
rear axle.
The system also has an internal clock to prevent
overheating. If the system overheats, all leveling
function stops until the system cools down.
During this time, the indicator light on the air
inator system will be ashing.
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The ignition has to be on for the system to inate,
in order to raise the vehicle to the standard ride
height after loading. The system can lower
the vehicle to the standard ride height after
unloading with the ignition on and also for up to
30 minutes after the ignition has been turned off.
You may hear the compressor operating when you
load your vehicle, and periodically as the system
adjusts the vehicle to the standard ride height.
Load leveling will not function normally with the
inator hose attached to the inator outlet.
Remove the inator hose from the outlet during
loading and unloading.
If the vehicle is parked for an extended period of
time, some bleed down of the suspension is
normal. Upon starting the vehicle, proper height
will be achieved.
Overload Protection
The air suspension system is equipped with
overload protection. Overload protection is
designed to protect the air suspension system,
and it is an indicator to the driver that the vehicle
is overloaded. When the overload protectionmode is on, it will not allow damage to the air
compressor. However, do not overload the vehicle.
SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 330.
If the suspension remains at a low height, the rear
axle load has exceeded GAWR (Gross Axle Weight
Rating). When the overload protection mode is
activated, the compressor operates for about
30 seconds to one minute without raising the
vehicle depending on the amount of overload.
This will continue each time the ignition is turned on
until the rear axle load is reduced below GAWR.
Indicator Light
The indicator light on the inator switch in the rear
passenger compartment also serves as an
indicator for internal system error. If the indicator
light is ashing without the load leveling function
or the inator being active, turn off the ignition.
The next day turn on the ignition and check
the indicator light. The vehicle can be driven with
the light ashing, but if it is you should have
the vehicle serviced as soon as possible.
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Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle is equipped with a seven-wire trailer
towing harness. This harness has a seven-pin
universal heavy-duty trailer connector (if equipped
with the trailering package) that is attached to a
bracket on the hitch platform. If your vehicle is not
equipped with the heavy-duty trailer connector,
you may purchase one from your dealer.The seven-wire harness contains the following
trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Running Lamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Dark Blue: Electric Brakes
Red: Battery Feed (The chassis wiring ring
terminal must be fastened to a stud on the
underhood electrical center before the
trailer feed will become active.)
If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard
four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector
is available from your dealer.
If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery,
turn on the headlamps to boost the vehicle
system voltage and properly charge the battery.
Your vehicle is also equipped with wiring for an
electric trailer brake controller. These wires are
located inside the vehicle on the driver’s side under
the instrument panel. These wires should be
connected to an electric trailer brake controller by
your dealer or a qualied service center.
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