steering BUICK RAINIER 2007 Owner's Guide

Q:What should I do if my vehicle stalls,
or is about to stall, and I cannot make it
up the hill?
A:If this happens, there are some things you
should do, and there are some things you
must not do. First, here is what youshoulddo:
Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle
and keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply
the parking brake.
If your engine is still running, shift the
transmission to REVERSE (R), release the
parking brake, and slowly back down the
hill in REVERSE (R).
If your engine has stopped running, you will
need to restart it. With the brake pedal
pressed and the parking brake still applied,
shift the transmission to PARK (P) and restart
the engine. Then shift to REVERSE (R),
release the parking brake, and slowly back
down the hill as straight as possible in
REVERSE (R).
As you are backing down the hill, put your left
hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock
position. This way you will be able to tell if your
wheels are straight and maneuver as you back
down. It is best that you back down the hill with
your wheels straight rather than in the left or
right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the
left or right will increase the possibility of a
rollover.
Here are some things youmust notdo if you stall,
or are about to stall, when going up a hill.
Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting
into NEUTRAL (N) to rev-up the engine
and regain forward momentum. This will not
work. Your vehicle will roll backwards
very quickly and you could go out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop
the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake.
Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking
brake, and slowly back straight down.
Never attempt to turn around if you are about
to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep
enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough
to cause you to roll over if you turn around.
If you cannot make it up the hill, you must
back straight down the hill.
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Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels
will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate
as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you
will need longer braking distances.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in
mud —the deeper the mud, the lower the gear.
In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle
moving so you do not get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change
in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how
loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed
sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, the tires
will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect
on steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive
at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns
or abrupt maneuvers.Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire
traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose
control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so
poor that you will have difficulty accelerating.
And, if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult
braking can cause you to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers
can be dangerous. Underwater springs,
currents under the ice, or sudden thaws
can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could
fall through the ice and you and your
passengers could drown. Drive your
vehicle on safe surfaces only.
312

After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected
on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood.
These accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake
linings cleaned and checked. These substances
can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the
body structure, steering, suspension, wheels,
tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check
the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service
due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance
Schedule for additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to
be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night
vision problems, or by fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving.
Drive defensively.
Do not drink and drive.
Adjust the inside rearview mirror to reduce the
glare from headlamps behind you.
Since you cannot see as well, you may need
to slow down and keep more space between
you and other vehicles.
Slow down, especially on higher speed roads.
Your vehicle’s headlamps can light up only so
much road ahead.
In remote areas, watch for animals.
If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe
place and rest.
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The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop
on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS,
you will want to begin stopping sooner than
you would on dry pavement. SeeAnti-Lock Brake
System (ABS) on page 287.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be
ne until you hit a spot that is covered with ice.
On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may
appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot
reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind
buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the
surface of a curve or an overpass may remain
icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you
see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before
you are on it. Try not to brake while you are
actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in
a serious situation. You should probably stay
with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you
are near help and you can hike through the
snow. Here are some things to do to summon
help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:
Turn on your hazard ashers.
Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police
that you have been stopped by the snow.
Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around
you. If you do not have blankets or extra
clothing, make body insulators from
newspapers, burlap bags, rags, oor
mats — anything you can wrap around yourself
or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
327

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right.
That will clear the area around the front wheels.
Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R)
and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as
little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal
while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that
may free your vehicle. If that does not get
your vehicle out after a few tries, it may need to
be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be
towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 337.
Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the
vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of
all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed
options. Two labels on your vehicle show how
much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire and
Loading Information label and the Certication/Tire
label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than
the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR),
or either the maximum front or rear Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do,
parts on your vehicle can break, and it
can change the way your vehicle handles.
These could cause you to lose control
and crash. Also, overloading can shorten
the life of your vehicle.
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Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connection,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer
has electric brakes, start your vehicle and
trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake
controller by hand to be sure the brakes are
working. This lets you check your electrical
connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can
return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with
one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just
move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer
won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs,
trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
348

Service........................................................ 356
Accessories and Modications................... 356
California Proposition 65 Warning.............. 357
Doing Your Own Service Work.................. 357
Adding Equipment to the Outside
of Your Vehicle...................................... 358
Fuel............................................................. 358
Gasoline Octane........................................ 358
Gasoline Specications.............................. 358
California Fuel........................................... 359
Additives................................................... 359
Fuels in Foreign Countries........................ 360
Filling the Tank......................................... 361
Filling a Portable Fuel Container............... 363
Checking Things Under the Hood.............. 364
Hood Release........................................... 364
Engine Compartment Overview.................. 366
Engine Oil................................................. 369
Engine Oil Life System.............................. 372
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter............................ 374
Automatic Transmission Fluid.................... 375
Engine Coolant.......................................... 379Radiator Pressure Cap.............................. 382
Engine Overheating................................... 382
Cooling System......................................... 384
Engine Fan Noise..................................... 390
Power Steering Fluid ................................. 390
Windshield Washer Fluid........................... 391
Brakes...................................................... 392
Battery...................................................... 396
Jump Starting............................................ 397
All-Wheel Drive........................................... 402
Rear Axle.................................................... 402
Front Axle................................................... 403
Bulb Replacement....................................... 404
Halogen Bulbs........................................... 404
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and
Parking Lamps....................................... 405
Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps............. 405
License Plate Lamp................................... 407
Replacement Bulbs................................... 407
Windshield Replacement............................ 408
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement....... 408
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
353

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 374.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling
System on page 384.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See
“Adding Washer Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 391.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower
Steering Fluid on page 390.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (Out of
View). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under
Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 375.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 369.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure
Cap on page 382.
H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” underEngine Oil on page 369.
I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 397.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 392.
K. Battery. SeeBattery on page 396.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 465.
367

A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling
System on page 384.
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 374.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See
“Adding Washer Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 391.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 369.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See
“Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 375.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” underEngine Oil on page 369.
G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure
Cap on page 382.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 397.
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower
Steering Fluid on page 390.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 392.K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 465.
L. Battery. SeeBattery on page 396.
Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time
you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading,
the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be
on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 366
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several
minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you
do not do this, the oil dipstick might not
show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper
towel or cloth, then push it back in all the
way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down,
and check the level.
369

Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan.
When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to
provide more air to cool the engine. In most
everyday driving conditions the clutch is not
engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces
fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases when the clutch engages so
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is
merely the cooling system functioning properly.
The fan will slow down when additional cooling is
not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch
disengages.
Power Steering Fluid
SeeEngine
Compartment Overview
on page 366for
reservoir location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power
steering uid unless you suspect there is a leak in
the system or you hear an unusual noise. A
uid loss in this system could indicate a problem.
Have the system inspected and repaired.
390