wheel CADILLAC ESCALADE ESV 2009 Workshop Manual

Stalling on an Incline
{ CAUTION: Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle
stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the
vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed.
Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the
vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.
If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure you,
and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the
door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill
side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in
its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over. Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do
not get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick,
turning is more difficult, and braking distances are
longer.
It is best to use a low gear when in mud — the deeper
the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
keep the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck.
When driving on sand, wheel traction changes.
On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or
sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand.
This affects steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive
at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt
maneuvers.
5-23

Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that
you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle
does get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can
cause it to slide out of control.
{ CAUTION: Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your
passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on
safe surfaces only. Driving in Water
{ CAUTION: Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it is
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive
through rushing water.
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before driving through it.
Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel
hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe — you probably will not get
through. Deep water can damage the axle and other
vehicle parts.
5-24

If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and
the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the
tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under water, you will
never be able to start the engine. When going through
water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it might
take longer to stop. See Driving in Rain and on Wet
Roads on page 5-26 .
After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected
on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood.
These accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system
for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system
for any leakage.
The vehicle requires more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information. Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because
some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or
drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
Night driving tips include:
Drive defensively.
Do not drink and drive.
Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside
rearview mirror.
Slow down and keep more space between you and
other vehicles because headlamps can only light up
so much road ahead.
Watch for animals.
When tired, pull off the road.
Do not wear sunglasses.
Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps.
Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle
clean — inside and out.
Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or
curves.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime.
But, as we get older, these differences increase.
A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much
light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
5-25

Winter Driving Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the
tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice
can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain begins
to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet
ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt
or sand.
Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate
gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly
causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under
the tires slick, so there is even less traction.
Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more. The StabiliTrak ®
System on page 5-6 improves the ability
to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down and adjust
your driving to the road conditions. When driving through
deep snow, turn off the traction control part of the
StabiliTrak ®
System to help maintain vehicle motion at
lower speeds.
The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 5-5 improves
vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads,
but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry
pavement.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road
and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on
otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface
of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering
maneuvers and braking while on ice.
Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.
5-29

Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel
really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about
to keep warm also helps.
If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then
when you run the engine, push the accelerator
pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle
speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart
the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps.
Do this as little as possible to save fuel.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 5-32 .
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction
system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off
and use the rocking method. { CAUTION: If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed,
they can explode, and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment re or other damage. Spin
the wheels as little as possible and avoid going
above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
see Tire Chains on page 6-76 .
5-31

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area
around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability
system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator
pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning
the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a
rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not
get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be
towed out. Recovery hooks can be used, if the vehicle
has them. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see
Towing Your Vehicle on page 5-40 . Recovery Hooks
{ CAUTION: These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force.
Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on
the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could
break off and you or others could be injured from
the chain or cable snapping back.
5-32

The system is activated when the ignition key is
turned to RUN and will automatically adjust vehicle
height thereafter. The system may exhaust (lower
vehicle height) for up to 10 minutes after the ignition
key has been turned to LOCK. You may hear the air
compressor operating when the height is being
adjusted.
If a weight-distributing hitch is being used, it is
recommended to allow the shocks to inate,
thereby leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the
height. See “Weight distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches” under Towing a Trailer on
page 5-44 .
Towing
Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed
with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/
retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled
vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Service on
page 8-7 .
To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for
recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following. Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle
behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing the vehicle
with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing”
(towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground
and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).
Here are some important things to consider before
recreational vehicle towing:
What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
What is the distance that will be travelled? Some
vehicles have restrictions on how far and how
long they can tow.
Is the proper towing equipment going to be used?
See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional
for additional advice and equipment
recommendations.
Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing
the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is
prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a
Long Trip on page 5-27 .
5-40

All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Dinghy and Dolly Towing
Notice: Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of
its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain
components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle
with any of its wheels on the ground.
All-wheel-drive vehicles are not designed to be towed
with any wheels on the ground. If the vehicle must
be towed, see Towing Your Vehicle previously.
5-41

Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Dinghy Towing
Notice: If a two-wheel-drive vehicle is towed with all
four wheels on the ground, the transmission could be
damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the
vehicle warranty. Do not tow a two-wheel-drive
vehicle with all four wheels on the ground.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with
all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed. To dolly tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle, the vehicle must
be towed with the rear wheels on the dolly. See “Dolly
Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)” following.
Dolly Towing
(Front Wheels Off the Ground)
Notice: If a two-wheel-drive vehicle is towed with
the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by the vehicle warranty. Never tow the
vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground.
5-42

Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with
the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed.
Dolly Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)
Use the following procedure to dinghy tow a
two-wheel-drive vehicle from the rear:
1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the
dolly manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Drive the rear wheels onto the dolly.
3. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on
page 2-34 . 4. Put the transmission in P (Park).
5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the
manufacturer’s instructions.
6. Use an adequate clamping device designed for
towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked
into the straight position.
7. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
Level Control
Automatic Level Control The automatic level control rear suspension is available
on light-duty vehicles and comes as a part of the
Autoride ®
suspension, if equipped.
This type of level control is fully automatic and will provide
a better leveled riding position as well as better handling
under a variety of passenger and loading conditions. An
air compressor connected to the rear shocks will raise or
lower the rear of the vehicle to maintain proper vehicle
height. The system is activated when the ignition key is
turned to ON/RUN and will automatically adjust vehicle
height thereafter. The system may exhaust (lower vehicle
height) for up to ten minutes after the ignition key has
been turned off. You may hear the air compressor
operating when the height is being adjusted.
If a weight-distributing hitch is being used, it is
recommended to allow the shocks to inate, thereby
leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the hitch.
5-43