trailer CADILLAC ESCALADE EXT 2007 3.G Owner's Manual

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important
weight to measure because it affects the total
or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle
Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the
vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and
the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you
have a lot of options, equipment, passengers
or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue
weight your vehicle can carry, which will also
reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And
if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue
load to the GVW because your vehicle will be
carrying that weight, too. SeeLoading Your
Vehicle on page 372for more information about
your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent
to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B),
up to a maximum of 600 lbs (272 kg) with a weight
carrying hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should
be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded
trailer weight (B), up to the maximum of 1,000 lbs
(454 kg) with a weight distributing hitch.
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue
weight for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch
extension that will position the hitch ball closest
to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect
of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle.
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After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer
and then the tongue, separately, to see if the
weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able
to get them right simply by moving some items
around in the trailer.
Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to
carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot
cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear
Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional
weight may reduce your trailering capacity more
than the total of the additional weight.
Consider the following example:
A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs
(2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle
and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It
has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR
of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross
Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs
(6 350 kg).The trailer rating should be:
You can expect tongue weight to be at least
10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and
because the weight is applied well behind the rear
axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than
just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much.
The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs
(386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear
axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding
1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs
(1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit
for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up
to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).
But let’s say your specic vehicle is equipped with
some of the latest options and you have a front seat
passenger and two rear seat passengers with some
luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may
add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and
400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight.
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Your vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you
may think that you should subtract 700 additional
pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity
to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer
would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may
go further and think you must limit tongue weight
to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid
exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the
effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle
now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put
900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without
exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is
about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the
900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being
able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue
weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least
10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can
expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can
properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).It is important that you make sure your vehicle
does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR,
GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating
or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you
are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh
your vehicle and trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the
upper limit for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers
on the Certication label at the rear edge of the
driver’s door or seeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 372. Then be sure you do not go over the
GVW limit for your vehicle, or the GAWR, including
the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use a
weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t go
over the rear axle limit before you apply the weight
distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads
are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
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Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch
must be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains
the same both before and after coupling the
trailer to the tow vehicle.
If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg) be sure
to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch
and sway control of the proper size.This equipment is very important for proper
vehicle loading and good handling when driving.
You should always use a sway control if your
trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can
ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your
vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains
under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the
tongue from contacting the road if it becomes
separated from the hitch. Always leave just enough
slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow
safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they
must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be
able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
Since your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak
®,
your trailer brake system cannot tap into the
vehicle’s hydraulic brake system.
(A) Body-to-Ground Distance (B) Front of Vehicle
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Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer
moving and then apply the trailer brake controller
by hand to be sure the brakes are working.
This lets you check your electrical connection at
the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can
return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one
hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left,
just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
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Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer
won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs,
trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will
ash whenever you signal a turn or lane change.
Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you’re about to
turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will ash for turns even if the
bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may
think drivers behind you are seeing your signal
when they are not. It’s important to check
occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbefore
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary,
a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too
often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly
conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode
if the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul
Mode” earlier.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill
grades, consider the following: Engine coolant at
or near sea level will boil at a lower temperature
than at higher altitudes. If you turn your engine off
immediately after towing at high altitude on
steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let
the engine run while parked (preferably on
level ground) with the automatic transmission in
PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning
the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning,
seeEngine Overheating on page 422.
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Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle,
with a trailer attached, on a hill. If
something goes wrong, your rig could
start to move. People can be injured, and
both your vehicle and the trailer can be
damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill,
here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release
the regular brakes until the chocks absorb
the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the
chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance
Schedule for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transmission uid (don’t overll), engine
oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you nd them
quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea
to review these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
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Trailer Wiring Harness
Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package
Your vehicle is equipped with the seven-wire
trailer towing harness. This harness with a
seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector is
attached to the rear bumper beam. It is located
next to the integrated trailer hitch.
The seven-wire harness contains the following
trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Red w/ Black Stripe: Battery Feed*
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake*
*The fuses for these two circuits are installed in
the underhood electrical center, but the wires
are not connected. They should be connected by
your dealer or a qualied service technician.
If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery,
press the tow/haul mode button located at the
end of the shift lever. This will boost the vehicle
system voltage and properly charge the battery.
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Electric Brake Control Wiring
Provisions
These wiring provisions are included with your
vehicle as part of the heavy-duty trailer wiring
package. These provisions are for an electric
brake controller. The red/black stripe power feed
will not be connected to the battery until the
ring terminal is unstowed and connected to the
underhood electrical center. The instrument panel
contains blunt cut wires near the data link
connector for the trailer brake controller. The
harness contains the following wires:
Dark Blue: Auxiliary
Red/Black: Battery
Light Blue/White: Brake Switch
White: Ground
It should be installed by your dealer or a qualied
service center.
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo
Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the maximum
weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t
include the weight of the people inside, but you
can gure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each
seat. The total cargo load must not be more than
your vehicles CWR.
Weigh your vehicle with your trailer attached, so
that you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you
are using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the
vehicle without the spring bars in place.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread out
the weight of your load the right way, and if
you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information seeTowing a Trailer
on page 380.
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If No Steam Is Coming From
Your Engine
The ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE or
the ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE
message, along with a low coolant condition, can
indicate a serious problem.
If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too
serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too
hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. SeeTowing a Trailer on
page 380.If you get the ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP
ENGINE or the ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE
ENGINE message with no sign of steam, try this
for a minute or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on, turn
it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest
fan speed and open the windows as
necessary.
3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in
NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do
so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or
NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you
can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for
about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come
back on, you can drive normally.
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