tires CADILLAC SEVILLE 1994 4.G Owners Manual

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introduced the 1 I
which set the trend In automotlve
egendary tail fin
styling for nearly two decades. This
was followed
by the 1949 model with
the two door hardtop Coupe DeVille
and the modern overhead valve,
high compression
V8 engine.
Engineering innovations, con-
veniences and styling dominated the
'50s and '60s. Cruise control, auto-
matic climate control,
tilt and
telescoping steering wheels, twilight
sentine1 and four door hard tops all
debuted in these years. In 1957 the
Eldorado Brougham featured
ad-
vances such as air suspension, mem-
ory seat, automatic electric door
locks, transistor radio, a brushed stainless steel roof and
low profile
tires.
introduced
in
1953,was redesigned for 1967 as the
first front wheel drive personal lux-
ury car. The
472 cu. in. V8 engine
used in
all Cadillacs in 1968 and
1969 was enlarged to
500 cu. in. for
all 1970 Eldorados.
An Air Cushion Restraint Sys-
tem (airbag) was available for
1974,
1975 and 1976 Cadillacs.
Analog Electronic Fuel Injec-
tion was available, on 1975 Cadillacs
and
was standard on the new inter-
national size 1976 Seville. In 1978,
the Trip Computer option incor-
porated an on-board microprocessor.

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Tachometer = Analog Cluster
This gage indicates the
engine speed
in
Revolutions Per
Minute (RPM).
NOTICE:
Do not operate the engine with the tachometer in the red area,
or engine damage may occur.
Engine Speed Limiter
This feature prevents the engine from operating at too many revolutions
per minute (RPM). When your engine RPM’s are critically high, the fuel
supply to the engine
is shut off. When the engine speed slows, the fuel
supply
will come on again. This helps prevent damage to the engine.
Whicle Speed Limiter (270 hp)
This feature prevents your vehicle from exceeding speeds that your tires
are not rated for. When this happens your engine’s fuel supply
is shut off.
When the vehicle speed’s slows, the fuel will come on again.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine person with a higher BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to
avoid the collision.
There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people
don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can
make crash injuries worse. That’s especially true for brain, spinal cord
and heart injuries. That means that if anyone who has been drinking
--
driver or passenger -- is in a crash, the chance of being killed or
permanently disabled is higher than
if that person had not been drinking.
And we’ve already seen that the chance of a crash itself
is higher for
drinking drivers.
CONTROL OF A VEHICLE
You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to
go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three
systems have to
do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.

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Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of
those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means
you can lose control of your vehicle.
BRAKIN%
Braking action involves perception time and reaction time.
First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception
time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time.
Average reaction time is about
3/4 of a second. But that’s only an
average. It might be less with one driver and as long as
two or three
seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness,
coordination, and eyesight all play a part.
So do alcohol, drugs and
frustration. But even
in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph
(100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an
emergency,
so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is
important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of
the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road
(wet, dry, icy); tire tread; and the condition
of your brakes.
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts
-- heavy
acceleration followed by heavy braking
-- rather than keeping pace with
traffic. This is
a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between
hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster
if you do a lot of heavy
braking.
If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Braking in Emergencies
Use your anti-lock braking system when you need to. With anti-lock, you
can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can
help you more than even the very best braking.
STEERTNG
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is
not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news
happen
on curves. Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws
of
physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road
surface makes
it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn
the front wheels.
If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going
in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice,
you’ll understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires
and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your
speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly
accelerate. Both control systems
-- steering and acceleration -- have to do
their work where the tires meet the road. Unless
you have traction
control and the system is on, adding the sudden acceleration can demand
too much of those places. You can lose control.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine LOSS OF CONTROL
Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three
control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough
friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek
an escape route or area
of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid
most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by
not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types
of skids correspond to your Cadillac’s three control
systems. In the braking skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or
cornering skid, too much speed or steering in
a curve causes tires to slip
and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too much throttle
causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your
foot off the accelerator pedal.
If you have the traction control system, remember: It helps avoid only the
acceleration skid.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot
off the accelerator pedal and
quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering
quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a
second skid
if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other
material
is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust
your driving to these conditions. It is important to
slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control
more limited.
While driving
on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid
sudden steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by
shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road y ou can’t
stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as
good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll
get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious
if rain
starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly
when your reflexes are tuned for driving on
dry pavement.
The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even
if your windshield wiper
blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road
signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and
even people walking.
It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your
windshield washer tank filled. Replace your windshield wiper inserts
when they show signs
of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or
when strips
of rubber start to separate from the inserts.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some
car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes.
Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit
them.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires
that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road
is wet
enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning,
it has little or no contact with the road.
Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can
if your tires haven’t much
tread or
if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees,
telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s
surface, there could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard
and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice
is to slow down when it
is raining.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Turn on your low-beam headlights -- not just your parking lights -- to
help make you more visible to others.
Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be
especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more
clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by
road spray.
0 Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)
CITYDWNG
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Here are some things you can check before a trip:
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Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean
inside and outside?
Wiper Blades:
Are they in good shape?
Fuel. Engine Oil, Other Fluids; Have you checked all levels?
Lichts:
Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip.
Is the
tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated
to the recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route?
Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm
system?
Maps:
Do you have up-to-date maps?
HIGmAY HITNOSIS
Is thh Actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just
plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack
of
awareness, or whatever.
There is something about an easy stretch
of road with the same scenery,
along with the hum
of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and
the rush
of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t
let it happen to you!
If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than
a second, and you could crash and be injured.
What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can
happen.
Then here are some tips:
Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool
interior.
Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check
your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently.
If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area
and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness
on the highway as an emergency.
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