trailer CHEVROLET AVALANCHE 2003 1.G Owner's Manual

Vehicle Axle Ratio *Maximum Trailer
Weight**GCWR
C-2500 (2WD)
8100 V83.73 10,200 lbs. (4 627 kg) 17,000 lbs. (7 711 kg)
4.10 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) 19,000 lbs. (8 618 kg)
K-2500 (4WD)
8100 V83.73 9,900 lbs. (4 491 kg) 17,000 lbs. (7 711 kg)
4.10 11,900 lbs. (5 398 kg) 19,000 lbs. (8 618 kg)
*Tongue weight should be 10% to 15% of trailer weight, up to 1,500 lb. (544 kg) maximum
**The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle
and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not
be exceeded.
You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or
advice, or you can write us at the address listed in
your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information
Booklet.
In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add
the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be
carrying that weight, too. See
Loading Your Vehicle
on page 4-51for more information about your vehicle's
maximum load capacity.
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If you're using a weight-carrying or a weight-distributing
hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent
to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B).
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle.
After you've loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights
are proper. If they aren't, you may be able to get them
right simply by moving some items around in the
trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle's Tires
Be sure your vehicle's tires are in¯ated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You'll ®nd these numbers on the
Certi®cation label at the rear edge of the driver's door or
see
Tires on page 5-61. Then be sure you don't go
over the GVW and rear axle limits for your vehicle,
including the weight of the trailer tongue.
If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you
don't go over the rear axle limit before you apply
the weight distributing spring bars.
Hitches
It's important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you'll need the right hitch. Here
are some rules to follow:
·If you'll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 5,000 lbs. (2 268 kg), be sure to
use a properly mounted, weight-distributing
hitch and sway control of the proper size. This
equipment is very important for proper vehicle
loading and good handling when you're driving.
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·Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don't seal them,
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust
can get into your vehicle. See²Carbon Monoxide²in
the Index. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so you can
turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on
the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes ± and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you'll be able to install,
adjust and maintain them properly.Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle's
hydraulic brake system only if:
·The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi (20 650
kPa) of pressure.
·The trailer's brake system will use less than 0.02
cubic inch (0.3 cc) of ¯uid from your vehicle's
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won't work well. You could even lose your brakes.
·Your vehicle is not equipped with Stabilitrakž.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at
the port on the master cylinder that sends the ¯uid
to the rear brakes. But don't use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and ®nally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
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Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You'll need more passing distance up ahead when
you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good deal
longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you're turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won't strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ¯ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ¯ash, telling other drivers
you're about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ¯ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It's
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
4-65

Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don't shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear
selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g.,
under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the
transmission shifts too often. See ªTow/Haul Modeº
earlier in this section.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, see
Engine Overheating on
page 5-27.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don't shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
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5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the
transfer case is in a drive gear and not in
NEUTRAL (N).
6. Release the regular brakes.
{CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle
if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with
the parking brake ®rmly set. Your vehicle can
roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle
can move suddenly. You or others could be
injured. To be sure your vehicle won't move,
even when you're on fairly level ground, use
the steps that follow.
Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P)
with the parking brake ®rmly set.
If the transfer case on four-wheel-drive
vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be
free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK
(P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive
gear Ð not in NEUTRAL.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
·start your engine,
·shift into a gear, and
·release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission ¯uid (don't over®ll),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you ®nd them quickly. If
you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these sections
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
4-67

Trailer Wiring Harness
Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package
Your vehicle is equipped with the eight-wire trailer
towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal
heavy-duty trailer connector is attached to a bracket
on the hitch platform.The Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) wire is
tied next to the trailer wiring harness for use with a
trailer.
The eight-wire harness contains the following trailer
circuits:
·Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
·Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
·Brown: Taillamps
·White: Ground
·Light Green: Back-up Lamps
·Light Blue: CHMSL
·Red: Battery Feed
·Dark Blue: Trailer Brake
If your trailer is equipped with electric brakes, you can
get a jumper harness (electric trailer brake control)
with a trailer battery feed fuse from your dealer. If you
need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard four-way
round connector you can also get an adaptor from
your dealer.
4-68

Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission ¯uid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the ¯uid and ®lter every 50,000 miles
(83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or
more of these conditions:
·In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90ÉF (32ÉC) or higher.
·In hilly or mountainous terrain.
·When doing frequent trailer towing.
·Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the ¯uid and ®lter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
See
Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on
page 6-4.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealership service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little ¯uid can damage
your transmission. Too much can mean that some
of the ¯uid could come out and fall on hot engine
part or exhaust system parts, starting a ®re.
Too little ¯uid could cause the transmission to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you
check your transmission ¯uid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission ¯uid level if you have been driving:
·When outside temperatures are above 90ÉF (32ÉC).
·At high speed for quite a while.
·In heavy traffic ± especially in hot weather.
·While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the ¯uid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180ÉF to 200ÉF (82ÉC to
93ÉC).
5-22

{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot
engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol,
and it will burn if the engine parts are hot
enough. Don't spill coolant on a hot engine.
When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is
hand-tight.
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap
The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully
installed on the coolant surge tank. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview on page 5-12for more
information on location.
Notice:Your pressure cap is a pressure-type cap
and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss
and possible engine damage from overheating.
See ªCapacities and Speci®cationsº for more
information.
Engine Overheating
You will ®nd a coolant temperature gage on your
vehicle's instrument panel. SeeEngine Coolant
Temperature Gage on page 3-39. In addition, you will
®nd a LOW COOLANT, ENGINE COOLANT HOT,
ENGINE OVERHEATED and a REDUCED ENGINE
POWER message in the DIC on the instrument panel.
See
DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-57.
Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode
If an overheated engine condition exists and the
REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an
overheat protection mode which alternates ®ring
groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In
this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine
performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to
be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving
extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the
overheat protection mode should be avoided.
Notice:After driving in the overheated engine
protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage,
allow the engine to cool before attempting any
repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded.
Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and
reset the oil life system. See ªEngine Oilº in the
Index.
5-27

If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
An overheat warning, along with a low coolant message,
can indicate a serious problem. SeeLow Coolant
Level Warning MessageunderDIC Warnings and
Messages on page 3-57.
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
·Climb a long hill on a hot day.
·Stop after high-speed driving.
·Idle for long periods in traffic.
·Tow a trailer. SeeTowing a Trailer on page 4-58.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try
this for a minute or so:
1. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.
2. If you're in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);
otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving
± DRIVE (D).If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn't come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there's still no sign of steam, push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast
as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while
you're parked. If you still have the warning,
turn off the
engine and get everyone out of the vehicleuntil it
cools down. Also, see ªOverheated Engine Protection
Operating Modeº listed previously in this section.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
5-29