trailer CHEVROLET BLAZER 1995 2.G User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1995, Model line: BLAZER, Model: CHEVROLET BLAZER 1995 2.GPages: 380, PDF Size: 20.04 MB
Page 195 of 380

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Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new
vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the first
500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t
drive over
50 mph (80 kdh) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This
helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in
at the heavier
loads,
If you have an automatic transmission, you should use
DRIVE (D) (or,
as you need to, a lower gear) when towing
a trailer. Operating your
vehicle in DRIVE (D) when towing a trailer will minimize heat
build-up and extend the life
of your transmission. If you have a manual
transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH
(5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower
gear).
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
Weight of the Traikr
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude,
road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment
that you have on your vehicle.
You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can
write
us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance
Information booklet.
In Canada, write to:
General Motors
of Canada Limited
Customer Assistance Center
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario
L1H 8W
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure
because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The gross vehicle
weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may
carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will
tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your
vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle”
in the
Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine A B
If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh
10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a
“weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue
(A) should weigh 12% of the
total loaded trailer weight (B).
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue,
separately, to see if the weights are proper.
If they aren’t, you may be able to
get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find
these numbers on the Certification label
on the driver’s door lock pillar or
see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the
GVW
limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks
going by, and rough roads are a
few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Here are some rules to follow:
0 If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than
2,000 pounds (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted,
weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This
equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good
handling when you’re driving.
0 Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you
install
a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later
when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon
monoxide
(CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see
“Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.
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Page 197 of 380

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trail\
er.
Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer
so that the tongue will
not drop
to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains
may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the
trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for
attaching safety chains and
do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave
just enough slack
so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety
chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs
its own brakes
- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brakes system can tap into vehicle’s hydraulic brake system
except:
Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system \
will
use more than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3~~) of fluid from your vehicle’s master
cylinder.
If it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even
lose your brakes.
Will the trailer parts take
3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not, the
trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on
the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t
use copper
tubing for this. If
you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake
tubing.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Driving with a Trailer
lowing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting \
out
for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. \
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good
deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments),
safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the
trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then\
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working.
This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time.
During your
trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and
that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when
driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that
require heavy braking and sudden turns.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer.
And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the
trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the
right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the traile\
r
to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this
so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring and a
heavy-duty
turn signal flasher (included in the optional trailering package).
The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a
turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash,
telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash
for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep
downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes
so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph
(70 Wh) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following:
Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal\
altitudes.
If
you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep
uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar
to engine overheating.
To avoid this,
let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK
(P) (or the manual transmission
out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turni\
ng
the engine off. If
you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine
Overheating” in the Index.
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, \
on a hill. If
something goes wrong, your rig could start
to move. People can be injured,
and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have
to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P)
yet, or into
gear for a manual transmission. Then turn your wheels into the curb if \
facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes\
until the
chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and \
then
shift into PARK (P), or REVERSE
(R) for a manual transmission.
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a manual transfer case
shift lever, be sure
the transfer case is in a drive gear - not in
NEUTRAL
(N).
6. Release the parking brake.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine;
0 Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See
the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially
important
in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system, and brake
adjustment. Each
of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help
you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
Trailer Lighting Systems Wiring
See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.
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Page 216 of 380

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine If No Steam IS Coming From Your Engine
If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may
not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
0 Climb a long hill on a hot day.
0 Stop after high speed driving.
0 Idle for long periods in traffic.
e Tow a trailer. See "Driving on Grades" in the Index.
If
YOU get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute
or
so:
1. Turn off your air conditioner.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the
window as necessary.
3. If you're in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the
highest gear while driving
- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (@) or
DRIVE (D) for automatic transmissions.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just \
to be safe,
drive slower for about ten minutes.
If the warning doesn't come back on,
you
can drive normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle \
right away.
If there's still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is
about twice as fast
as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to
normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now
see if the warning stops.
But then, if you still have the warning,
turn oflthe engine and get everyone
out
of the vehicle until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
ici
5-14
When you decide it's
safe to lift the hood,
here's what you'll
see:
A. Coolant recovery
B. Radiator pressure C. Engine fan tank
cap
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 1
6. Start the engine
and let it
run until
you can feel'the
upper radiator hose getting hot.
Watch out for the
engine fan.
7. By this time the coolant level inside the filler neck may be lower. If the
level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck unt\
il
the level reaches the base of the filler neck.
8. Then replace the
pressure cap. At
any time during
this procedure if
coolant begins to
flow out of the
filler neck,
reinstall the
pressure cap. Be
sure the arrows
on the pressure
cap line
up like
this.
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutc\
h is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. \
In most every day
driving conditions the clutch
is not engaged. This improves fuel economy
and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer tow\
ing and/or
high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when
the clutch engages.
So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be
mistaken
as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely \
the
cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when
additional cooling is not required and
the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the fan clutch disengages.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Doing Your Own Service Work
If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the
proper
GM Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service
your vehicle than this manual can.
To order the proper service manual, see
“Service Publications” in the Index.
You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the
date
of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the
Index.
I NOTICE:
If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough
about it, your vehicle could be damaged.
Fuel
Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. Use premium
unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher for high power performance,
when towing a trailer or with a high payload requirement.
But when
operating with a light load as a normal condition, you may use middle grade
or regular unleaded gasolines.
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