wheel CHEVROLET BLAZER 1996 2.G Service Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1996, Model line: BLAZER, Model: CHEVROLET BLAZER 1996 2.GPages: 392, PDF Size: 20.35 MB
Page 182 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems.
But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood
waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or
exhaust pipe, don’t
try it -- you probably won’t get
through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle
and other vehicle parts.
If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through
it slowly.
At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
get
your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your
tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your\
engine. When you go through water, remember that when
your brakes get wet,
it may take you longer to stop.
I
A CAUTION:
~ Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep
water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown.
If it’s
only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive
through rushing water.
See “Driving Through Water”
in the Index for more
information on driving through water.
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Page 183 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system
for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling
system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
Driving at Night
I
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One
reason is that
some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by
alcohol
or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
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Page 191 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Here are some things you can check before a trip:
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Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?
Are all windows clean inside and outside?
Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked
all levels?
Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,
trouble-free trip.
Is the tread good enough for
long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the
recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook
along your route? Should you delay your trip a short
time
to avoid a major storm system?
Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”?
Or is
it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it
highway hypnosis, lack of awareness,
or whatever.
There is something about an easy stretch
of road with the
same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road,
the drone
of the engine, and the rush of the wind against
the vehicle that can make
you sleepy. Don’t let it happen
to you!
If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less
than n second, and you could crash and be injured.
What can
you do about highway hypnosis‘? First, be
aware that it can happen.
Then here are some tips:
0
0
0
Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a
comfortably cool interior.
Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and
to
the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments
frequently.
If
you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service
or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or
both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway
as
an emergency.
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Page 195 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If
you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish
the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when
you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll
want
to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index.
0 Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.
0 Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until
you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around
clumps
of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface
of a curve or an overpass may
remain icy when
the surrounding roads are clear. If
you see a patch
of ice ahead of you, brake before you
are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on
the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
If You’re Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with your
vehicle unless
you know for sure that you are near help
and
you can hike through the snow. Here are some things
to
do to summon help and keep yourself and your
passengers safe:
0 Turn on your hazard flashers.
0 Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that
you’ve been stopped by the snow.
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Page 197 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When
you run the engine, make it go a little faster
than just idle. That
is, push the accelerator slightly. This
uses less fuel for the heat that
you get and it keeps the
battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery
to
restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on
with your headlamps. Let the heater run for awhile.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all
the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again
and repeat this
only when you feel really uncomfortable
from the cold. But
do it as little as possible. Preserve the
fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get
out
of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or
so until help comes.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
(Four-wheel Drive Only)
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Place an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a
manual transmission
in FIRST (1).
3. Firmly attach the vehicle being towed to the tow
vehicle.
Do not tow the vehicle by the rear bumper
bar. Refer to the hitch manufacturer’s instructions.
4. Place the transfer case shift lever in NEUTRAL (N).
Recreational vehicle towing is not recommended for
vehicles with
the optional electronic shift transfer
case or all-wheel drive because the transfer cases
have
no neutral position.
Shifting the transfer case into NEUTRAL (N) can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission
is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission,
or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual
transmission. This is because the transfer case
overrides the transmission.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle.
6. Insert the ignition key into the ignition switch and
turn it
one notch forward of the LOCK position. This
places the key
in the OFF position, which unlocks
the steering column while preventing battery drain.
Unlocking the steering column will allow for proper
movement
of the front wheelshires during towing.
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Page 202 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine If you have an automatic transmission, you should
use DRIVE
(D) (or, as you need to, a lower gear)
when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle
in
DRIVE (D) when towing a trailer will minimize heat
buildup and extend the life of your transmission. If
you have a manual transmission and you are towing
a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just
drive in FOURTH
(4) gear (or, as you need to, a
lower gear).
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
the weight of the trailer,
the weight of the trailer tongue
0 and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan
to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used
to pull a
trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any
special equipment that you have
on your vehicle. The
following chart shows how much your trailer can
weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options.
Vehicle
2-Wheel Drive, Auto. Trans.
2-Wheel Drive,
Manual Trans.
4-Wheel Drive, Auto. Trans.
4-Wheel Drive, Manual Trans.
Axle Ratio Trailer Wt.
3.08
3.42
3.42 4,500
lbs. (1 816 kg)
5,500 lbs. (2 497 kg)
4,500 Ibs. (1 8 16 kg)
3.08
. 4,000 Ibs. (1 8 16 kg)
3.42
5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg)
3.73
5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg)
3.42
4,000 lbs. (1 8 16 kg)
Maximum trailer weight
is calculated assuming the
driver and one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it
has all the required trailering equipment. The weight
of
additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in
the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum
trailer weight.
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Page 206 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for
the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the
feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and
not nearly as
responsive as your
vehicle is by itself.
Before
you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets
you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally
to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help
you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing
a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return
to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer
to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand
to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide
you.
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Page 208 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your
speed to around
45 mph (70 kmh) to reduce the
possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
If you have
an automatic transmission, you should use
DRIVE (D) when towing
a trailer. Operating your
vehicle in DRIVE
(D) when towing a.trailer will
minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your
transmission. Or, if
you have a manual transmission,
it’s better not to use FIFTH
(5) gear, just drive in
FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a
lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn
your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating.
To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK
(P) (or the
manual transmission
out of gear and the parking brake
applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off.
If
you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine
Overheating” in the Index.
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer
attached,
on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig
could start to move. People can be injured, and both
your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But
if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to
do it:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK
(P) yet, or into gear for a manual
transmission. Then turn your wheels into the
curb
if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
When the wheel chocks are
in place, release the
regular brakes
until the chocks absorb the load.
Reapply the regular brakes.
Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P), or
REVERSE
(R) for a manual transmission.
If
you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a
manual transfer case shift lever, be sure the transfer
case is
in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL (N).
Release the regular brakes.
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Page 209 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine A CAUTION:
- - -
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if
the shift lever is not fully in
PARK (P) with the
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle
can move suddenly. You or others could be
injured.
To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even
when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps
that follow.
If you have four-wheel drive with a manual
transfer case shift lever and your transfer case is
in
NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free to
roll, even if your shift lever is in
PARK (P). So, be
sure the transfer case is in a drive gear
-- not in
NEUTRAL (N).
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on
a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
0 Start your engine;
0 Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
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Page 215 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching
each other.
If they are, it could cause a ground
connection
you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to
start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could
damage the electrical systems.
You could be injured if the vehicles roll. Set the
parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an
automatic transmission
in PARK (P) or a manual
transmission in NEUTRAL (N). If
you have a
four-wheel-drive vehicle with a manual transfer
case shift lever, be sure the transfer case is
not in
NEUTRAL (N).
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged
into the cigarette
lighter, or accessory power outlets,
if you have this
option. Turn
off all lamps that aren’t needed as well
as radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both
batteries.
In addition, it could save your radio!
NOTICE:
If you leave your radio on, it could be badly
damaged. The repair wouldn’t be covered by
your warranty.
I A CAUTION:
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary
electric fan under the hood can
start up even
when the engine is not running and can injure
you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from
any underhood electric fan.
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