maintenance CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide

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ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP

TUNE-UP PROCEDURES
In order to extract the full measure of performance and economy from your
engine it is essential that it is properly tuned at regul ar intervals. A regular tune-
up will keep your Camaro's engine running smoothly and will prevent the
annoying breakdowns and poor perform ance associated with an untuned
engine.
A complete tune-up should be performed every 30,000 miles (48,000 km). This
interval should be halved if the car is operated under severe conditions such as
trailer towing, prolonged idling, start-and- stop driving, or if starting or running
problems are noticed. It is assumed that the routine maintenance described in
General Information & Maintenance has been kept up, as this will have a
decided effect on the result s of a tune-up. All of the applicable steps of a tune-
up should be followed in order, as the result is a cumulative one.
If the specifications on the underhoo d tune-up sticker in the engine
compartment of your car disagree with th e "Tune-Up Specifications" chart in this
Section, the figures on the sticker must be used. The sticker often reflects
changes made during t he production run.
SPARK PLUGS
A typical spark plug consists of a metal shell surrounding a ceramic insulator. A
metal electrode extends downward through the center of the insulator and
protrudes a small distance. Located at the end of the plug and attached to the
side of the outer metal shell is the side el ectrode. The side electrode bends in at
a 90 angle so that its tip is just pas t and parallel to the tip of the center
electrode. The distance between these two electrodes (measured in
thousandths of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter) is called the spark plug
gap.
The spark plug does not pr oduce a spark, but instead provides a gap across
which the current can arc. The coil produces anywhere from 20,000 to 50,000
volts (depending on the type and application) which travels through the wires to
the spark plugs. The current passes along the center electrode and jumps the
gap to the side electrode, and in doing so, ignites the air/fuel mixture in the
combustion chamber.

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GENERAL INFORMATION & MAINTENANCE

HOW TO USE THIS INFORMATION
The introductory part of this repair gui de is intended to help you learn more
about the inner workings of your Camaro while saving you money on its upkeep
and operation.
The beginning of the repair guide will likely be referred to the most, since that is
where you will find information for maintenance and tune-up. The other
information deals with the more complex systems of your vehicle. Systems
(from engine through brakes) are covered to the extent that the average do-it-
yourselfer can attempt. This repair guide will not explain such things as
rebuilding a differential because the ex pertise required and the special tools
necessary make this uneconomical. It will, however, give you detailed
instructions to help you change your own brake pads and shoes, replace spark
plugs, and perform many more jobs that can save you money and help avoid
expensive problems.
A secondary purpose of this repair guide is a reference for owners who want to
understand their vehicle and/or their mechanics better.
WHERE TO BEGIN
Before removing any bolts, read through t he entire procedure. This will give you
the overall view of what tools and supplies will be required. So read ahead and
plan ahead. Each operation should be approached logically and all procedures
thoroughly understood before attempting any work.
If repair of a component is not considered practical, we tell you how to remove
the part and then how to insta ll the new or rebuilt replacement. In this way, you
at least save labor costs.
AVOIDING TROUBLE
Many procedures in this repair guide r equire you to "label and disconnect ..." a
group of lines, hoses or wires. Don't be think you can remember where
everything goes - you won't. If you hook up va cuum or fuel lines incorrectly, the
vehicle may run poorly, if at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you
may instantly learn a very expensive lesson.
You don't need to know the proper name for each hose or line. A piece of
masking tape on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you to assign your
own label. As long as you remember your own code, the lines can be
reconnected by matching your tags. Re member that tape will dissolve in
gasoline or solvents; if a part is to be washed or cleaned, use another method
of identification. A permanent felt-tipped marker or a metal scribe can be very
handy for marking metal parts. Remove any tape or paper labels after
assembly.

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MAINTENANCE OR REPAIR?
Maintenance includes routine inspecti
ons, adjustments, and replacement of
parts which show signs of normal wear . Maintenance compensates for wear or
deterioration. Repair implies that someth ing has broken or is not working. A
need for a repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. for example: draining
and refilling automatic transmission fl uid is maintenance recommended at
specific intervals. Failure to do this can shorten the life of the
transmission/transaxle, requiring very expen sive repairs. While no maintenance
program can prevent items from eventually breaking or wearing out, a general
rule is true: MAINTENANCE IS CHEAPER THAN REPAIR.
Two basic mechanic's rules should be mentioned here. First, whenever the left
side of the vehicle or engine is refe rred to, it means the driver's side.
Conversely, the right side of the vehi cle means the passenger's side. Second,
screws and bolts are removed by turn ing counterclockwise, and tightened by
turning clockwise unless specifically noted.
Safety is always the most important rule. Constantly be aware of the dangers
involved in working on an automobile and take the proper precautions. Please
refer to the information in this se ction regarding SERVICING YOUR VEHICLE
SAFELY and the SAFETY NOTICE on the acknowledgment page.
AVOIDING THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES
Pay attention to the instructions prov ided. There are 3 common mistakes in
mechanical work:
1. Incorrect order of assembly, di sassembly or adjustment. When taking
something apart or putting it toget her, performing steps in the wrong
order usually just costs you ex tra time; however, it CAN break
something. Read the entire proc edure before beginning. Perform
everything in the order in which the instructions say you should, even if
you can't see a reason for it. When you' re taking apart something that is
very intricate, you might want to draw a picture of how it looks when
assembled in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper
position. When making adjustments, per form them in the proper order.
One adjustment possibly will affect another.
2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is more common for overtorquing to cause damage, undertorquing may allow a fastener to
vibrate loose causing serious dam age. Especially when dealing with
aluminum parts, pay attention to tor que specifications and utilize a torque
wrench in assembly. If a torque figure is not available, remember that if
you are using the right tool to perfo rm the job, you will probably not have
to strain yourself to get a fast ener tight enough. The pitch of most
threads is so slight that the te nsion you put on the wrench will be
multiplied many times in actual fo rce on what you are tightening.
There are many commercial products avai lable for ensuring that fasteners won't
come loose, even if they are not torqued just right (a very common brand is

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Loctite). If you're worried about getting so
mething together tight enough to hold,
but loose enough to avoid mechanical damage during assembly, one of these
products might offer substantial insurance. Before choosing a threadlocking
compound, read the label on the pa ckage and make sure the product is
compatible with the materials, fluids, etc. involved.
3. Crossthreading. This occu rs when a part such as a bolt is screwed into a
nut or casting at the wrong angle and forced. Cr ossthreading is more
likely to occur if access is diffic ult. It helps to clean and lubricate
fasteners, then to start threading the bolt, spark pl ug, etc. with your
fingers. If you encounter resistance, unscrew the part and start over
again at a different angle until it can be inserted and turned several t\
imes
without much effort. Keep in mind t hat many parts have tapered threads,
so that gentle turning will automatica lly bring the part you're threading to
the proper angle. Don't put a wrench on the part until it's been tightened
a couple of turns by hand. If you s uddenly encounter resistance, and the
part has not seated fully, don't force it. Pull it back out to make sure it's
clean and threading properly.
Be sure to take your time and be pati ent, and always plan ahead. Allow yourself
ample time to perform r epairs and maintenance.
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
Without the proper tools and equipment it is impossible to properly service your
vehicle. It would be virtually impossible to catalog every tool that you would
need to perform all of the oper ations in this repair guide. It would be unwise for
the amateur to rush out and buy an expens ive set of tools on the theory that
he/she may need one or more of them at some time.
The best approach is to proceed slowly, gathering a good quality set of those
tools that are used most frequently. Don't be misled by the low cost of bargain
tools. It is far better to spend a little more for better quality. Forged wrenches, 6
or 12-point sockets and fine tooth ratc hets are by far preferable to their less
expensive counterparts. As any good me chanic can tell you, there are few
worse experiences than trying to work on a vehicle with bad tools. Your
monetary savings will be far outweighed by frustration and mangled knuckles.
Begin accumulating those tools that are used most frequently: those associated
with routine maintenance and tune-up. In addition to the normal assortment of
screwdrivers and pliers, you should have the following tools:
• Wrenches/sockets and combination o pen end/box end wrenches in sizes 1/83/4 in. and/or 3mm-19mm 13/16 in. or 5/8 in. spark plug socket
(depending on plug type).
If possible, buy various length socket drive extensions. Universal-joint\
and
wobble extensions can be extremely usef ul, but be careful when using them, as
they can change the amount of torque applied to the socket.

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Jackstands for support.
• Oil filter wrench.
• Spout or funnel for pouring fluids.
• Grease gun for chassis lubrication (unl ess your vehicle is not equipped
with any grease fittings)
• Hydrometer for checking the battery (unless equipped with a sealed,
maintenance-free battery).
• A container for draining oil and other fluids.
• Rags for wiping up the inevitable mess.

Fig. 1: All but the most basic procedures will require an assortment of ratchets
and sockets

Fig. 2: In addition to ratchets, a good set of wrenches and hex keys will be
necessary

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In addition to the above it
ems there are several others that are not absolutely
necessary, but handy to have around. These include an equivalent oil
absorbent gravel, like cat litter, and the usual supply of lubricants, antifreeze
and fluids. This is a basic list for rout ine maintenance, but only your personal
needs and desire can accurately determine your list of tools.
After performing a few projects on the vehi cle, you'll be amazed at the other
tools and non-tools on your workbench. Some useful household items are: a
large turkey baster or siphon, empty coff ee cans and ice trays (to store parts), a
ball of twine, electrical t ape for wiring, small rolls of colored tape for tagging
lines or hoses, markers and pens, a note pad, golf tees (for plugging vacuum
lines), metal coat hangers or a roll of mechanic's wire (to hold things out of the
way), dental pick or similar long, poi nted probe, a strong magnet, and a small
mirror (to see into rece sses and under manifolds).

Fig. 7: Although not always necessary, us ing specialized brake tools will save
time

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Fig. 8: A few inexpensive lubricati on tools will make maintenance easier

Fig. 9: Various pullers, clamps and separ ator tools are needed for many larger,
more complicated repairs

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Special tools can usually be purchased fr
om an automotive parts store or from
your dealer. In some cases special tools may be available directly from the tool
manufacturer.
SERVICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY
It is virtually impossible to anticipate all of the hazards involved with automotive
maintenance and service, but care and common sense will prevent most
accidents.
The rules of safety for mechanics range fr om "don't smoke around gasoline," to
"use the proper tool(s) for the job." The tr ick to avoiding injuries is to develop
safe work habits and to take every possible precaution.

Fig. 1: Screwdrivers should be kept in good condition to prevent injury \
or
damage which could result if t he blade slips from the screw

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SUSPENSION & STEERING

SUSPENSION AND STEERING WHEELS
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
• Park the vehicle on a level surface.
• Remove the jack, tire iron and, if nec essary, the spare tire from their
storage compartments.
• Check the owner's manual or refer to General Information & Maintenance
of this repair guide for the jacking poi nts on your vehicle. Then, place the
jack in the proper position.
• If equipped with lug nut trim caps, remo ve them by either unscrewing or
pulling them off the lug nuts, as appr opriate. Consult the owner's manual,
if necessary.
• If equipped with a wheel cover or hub c ap, insert the tapered end of the
tire iron in the groove and pry off the cover.
1. Apply the parking brake and block the diagonally opposite wheel with a
wheel chock or two.
Wheel chocks may be purchased at your lo cal auto parts store, or a block of
wood cut into wedges may be used. If possi ble, keep one or two of the chocks
in your tire storage compartment, in case any of the tires has to be removed on
the side of the road.
2. If equipped with an automatic transmi ssion, place the selector lever in P
or Park; with a manual transmission, place the shifter in Reverse.
3. With the tires still on the ground, use the tire iron/wrench to break the lug
nuts loose.
If a nut is stuck, never use heat to loosen it or damage to the wheel and
bearings may occur. If the nuts are seized, one or two heavy hammer blows
directly on the end of the bol t usually loosens the rust. Be careful, as continued
pounding will likely damage the brake drum or rotor.
3. Using the jack, raise the vehicle unt il the tire is clear of the ground.
Support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
4. Remove the lug nuts, then remove the tire and wheel assembly.
To install:
5. Make sure the wheel and hub mating su rfaces, as well as the wheel lug
studs, are clean and free of all foreign material. Always remove rust from
the wheel mounting surfac e and the brake rotor or drum. Failure to do so
may cause the lug nuts to loosen in service.
6. Install the tire and wheel asse mbly and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
7. Using the tire wrench, tighten all the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, until
they are snug.
8. Raise the vehicle and withdraw the jackstand, then lower the vehicle.

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Using a torque wrench, tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern to 100
ft. lbs. (140 Nm) for 1982-85 vehicles with aluminum wheels, 80 ft. lbs.
(110 Nm) for 1982-85 vehicles with st eel wheels, 80 ft. lbs. (110 Nm) for
1986-91 vehicles or 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm) for 1992 vehicles. Check your
owner's manual or refer to General Information & Maintenance of this
repair guide for the proper tightening sequence.

Fig. 1: Typical wheel lug tightening sequence
WARNING - Do not overtighten the lug nuts, as this may cause the wheel studs
to stretch or the brake disc (rotor) to warp.
• If so equipped, install the wheel cover or hub cap. Make sure the valve
stem protrudes throu gh the proper opening bef ore tapping the wheel
cover into position.
• If equipped, install the lug nut trim caps by pushing them or screwing
them on, as applicable.
• Remove the jack from under the v ehicle, and place the jack and tire
iron/wrench in their storage compartment s. Remove the wheel chock(s).
• If you have removed a flat or damaged tire, place it in the storage
compartment of the vehicle and take it to your local repair station to have
it fixed or replaced as soon as possible.