maintenance CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 2
































This is an essential accessory for do-it
-yourself automotive repair. Each vehicle-
specific guide includes detailed informa tion and graphics to help you get your
car or truck back on the road. Included in most guides: step-by-step instructions
with detailed photographs and drawings, wiring diagrams, specification charts
and repair tips.

1. Body & Trim
2. Brakes
3. Chassis Electrical
4. Drive Train
5. Engine & Engine Overhaul
6. Engine Controls
7. Engine Performance and Tune-up
8. Fuel System
9. General Information & Maintenance
10. Suspension & Steering

Covers all U.S. and Canadian m odels of GM Camaro 1982-1992.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 51
shoes to rotate very slightly with the
drum, rocking an adjusting lever, thereby
causing rotation of the adjusting scr ew. Some drum brake systems are
designed to self-adjust duri ng application whenever the br akes are applied. This
on-board adjustment system reduces the need for maintenance adjustments
and keeps both the brake function and pedal feel satisfactory.
POWER BOOSTERS
Virtually all modern vehicles use a va cuum assisted power brake system to
multiply the braking force and reduce pedal effort. Since vacuum is always
available when the en gine is operating, the system is simple and efficient. A
vacuum diaphragm is located on the front of the master cylinder and assists the
driver in applying the brakes, reducing both the effort and travel he must put into
moving the brake pedal.
The vacuum diaphragm housing is normally connected to the intake manifold by
a vacuum hose. A check valve is placed at the point where the hose enters the
diaphragm housing, so that during periods of low manifold vacuum brakes
assist will not be lost.
Depressing the brake pedal closes o ff the vacuum source and allows
atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of the diaphragm. This causes the
master cylinder pistons to move and app ly the brakes. When the brake pedal is
released, vacuum is applied to both si des of the diaphragm and springs return
the diaphragm and master cylinder pist ons to the released position.
If the vacuum supply fails, the brake pedal rod will contact the end of the master
cylinder actuator rod and the system will apply the br akes without any power
assistance. The driver will notice that much higher pedal effort is needed to stop
the car and that the pedal f eels harder than usual.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
1. Operate the engine at idle without t ouching the brake pedal for at least one
minute.
2. Turn off the engine and wait one minute.
3. Test for the presence of assist va cuum by depressing the brake pedal and
releasing it several times. If vac uum is present in the system, light
application will produce less and less pedal travel. If there is no vacuum, air
is leaking into the system.
SYSTEM OPERATION TEST
1. With the engine OFF, pump the brake p edal until the supply vacuum is
entirely gone.
2. Put light, steady pressu re on the brake pedal.
3. Start the engine and let it idle. If the system is operating correctly, the brake
pedal should fall toward the floor if t he constant pressure is maintained.

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damage, and legal considerations (such as t
he fact that it is a federal crime to
vent refrigerant into the atmosphere), dictate that the A/C components on your
vehicle should be serviced only by a Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning (MVAC)
trained, and EPA certified aut omotive technician.
If your vehicle's A/C system uses R-12 re frigerant and is in need of recharging,
the A/C system can be c onverted over to R-134a refrigerant (less
environmentally harmful and expensive). Refer to General Information &
Maintenance for additional information on R- 12 to R-134a conversions, and for
additional considerations dealing with your vehicle's A/C system.
CONTROL CABLES
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Some of the following cables will not be used on all models and model years.
Left and Right Air Vent Cables 1. Remove the left and right sound insulators.
2. Remove the screws attaching the cabl es to the steering column cover.
3. Disengage the cable clamps at the vent ducts.
4. Disengage the Z-shaped c able ends from the vent valve levers.
5. Remove the air vent cables notin g their positions for installation.
To install: 6. Place the cables in posi tion under the instrument panel.
7. Engage the Z-shaped cable ends to the vent valve levers.
8. Snap the cable clamps into the slot of the bracket formed on the vent
ducts.
9. Attach the air vent cables at the steering column cover.
10. Install the sound insulators and test cable operation.

Fig. 1: Cable attachment at the steering column cover

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 323
Replacement kits include new bearing
cups and conventional snaprings to
replace the original nylon rings. These replacement rings must go inboard of the
yoke in contrast to outboard mounting of the Dana and Cleveland designs.
Previous service to the Saginaw U-joints can be recognized by the presence of
snaprings inboard of the yoke.
Bad U-joints, requiring replacement, will produce a clunking sound when the car
is put into gear. This is due to worn needle bearings or a scored trunnion end
possibly caused by improper lubricati on during assembly. Camaro U-joints
require no periodic maintenance and theref ore have no lubrication fittings.
DRIVESHAFT
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Raise the vehicle and safely su pport it on jackstands. Paint a reference
line from the rear end of the drives haft to the companion flange so that
they can be reassembled in the same position.
2. Disconnect the rear universal join t by removing the U-bolts, retaining
straps, or the flange bolts.
3. To prevent loss of the needle bear ings, tape the bearing caps to the
trunnion.

Fig. 1: Driveshaft
4. Remove the driveshaft from the tr ansmission by sliding it rearward.
Do not be alarmed by oil l eakage at the transmission output shaft. This oil is
there to lubricate the sp lines of the front yoke.
To install: 5. Check the yoke seal in the transmi ssion case extension and replace it if
necessary. See the transmission sect ion for replacement procedures.
6. Position the driveshaft and insert t he front yoke into the transmission so
the splines mesh with the transmission shaft splines.
7. Using reference marks made during re moval, align the driveshaft with the
companion flange and secure it with U-bolts or, retaining straps.
U-JOINT REPLACEMENT 1. Support the driveshaft horizontally in line with the base plate of a press.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 350
4. Remove the distributor cover and wi
re retainer, if equipped. Turn the
retaining screws counterclockwise and remove the cap.
5. Mark the relationship of the roto r to the distributor housing and the
housing relationship to the engine.
6. Remove the distributor reta ining bolt and hold-down clamp.
7. Pull the distri butor up until the rotor just stops turning counterclockwise
and again note the position of the rotor.
8. Remove the distribut or from the engine.
To install: 9. Insert the distributor into the engine, with the rotor aligned to the last
mark made, then slowly install the dist ributor the rest of the way until all
marks previously made are aligned.
10. Install the distributor hold- down clamp and retaining bolt.
11. If removed, install the wiring harness retainer and secondary wires.
12. Install the distributor cap.
13. Engage the wire connections on t he distributor. Make certain the
connectors are fully seated and latched.
14. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
If the engine was accidentally cranked afte r the distributor was removed, the
following procedure can be used during installation.
15. Remove the No. 1 spark plug.
16. Place a finger over the spark pl ug hole. Have a helper turn the engine
slowly using a wrench on the crankshaft bolt until compression is felt. \

17. Align the timing mark on the pulley to 0 on the engine timing indicator.
18. Turn the rotor to point to the No . 1 spark plug tower on the distributor
cap.
19. Install the distributor assembly in the engine and ensure the rotor is
pointing toward the No. 1 spark plug tower.
20. Install the cap and spark plug wires.
21. Check and adjust engine timing.
ALTERNATOR
DESCRIPTION
An alternator differs from a DC shunt generator in that the armature is
stationary, and is called the stator, while the field rotates and is called the rotor.
The higher current values in the alternator's stator are conducted to the external
circuit through fixed leads and connecti ons, rather than through a rotating
commutator and brushes as in a DC generator. This eliminates a major point of
maintenance.
The rotor assembly is supported in the drive end frame by a ball bearing and at
the other end by a roller bearing. These bearings are lubricated during
assembly and require no main tenance. There are six diodes in the end frame
assembly. These diodes are electrical check valves that also change the

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 351
alternating current developed
within the stator windings to a direct (DC) current
at the output (BAT) terminal. Three of these diodes are negative and are
mounted flush with the end frame while t he other three are positive and are
mounted into a strip called a heat sink. The positive diodes are easily identified
as the ones within small cavities or depressions.
The alternator charging system is a negative (-) ground system which consists
of an alternator, a regulat or, a charge indicator, a storage battery and wiring
connecting the components, and fuse link wire.
The alternator is belt-driven from t he engine. Energy is supplied from the
alternator/regulator system to the rotati ng field through two brushes to two slip-
rings. The slip-rings are mounted on the rotor shaft and are connected t\
o the
field coil. This energy supplied to the ro tating field from the battery is called
excitation current and is used to init ially energize the field to begin the
generation of electricity. Once the alter nator starts to generate electricity, the
excitation current comes from its ow n output rather than the battery.
The alternator produces power in the form of alternating current. The alternating
current is rectified by 6 diodes into dire ct current. The direct current is used to
charge the battery and power the rest of the electrical system.
When the ignition key is turned ON, current flows from the battery, through the
charging system indicator light on the in strument panel, to the voltage regulator,
and to the alternator. Since the alternat or is not producing any current, the
alternator warning light comes on. When the engine is started, the alternator
begins to produce current and turns the alte rnator light off. As the alternator
turns and produces current, the current is divided in two ways: part to the
battery(to charge the battery and power the electrical components of the
vehicle), and part is returned to the alte rnator (to enable it to increase its
output). In this situation, the alternator is receiving current from the battery and
from itself. A voltage regulat or is wired into the current supply to the alternator
to prevent it from receiving too much cu rrent which would cause it to put out too
much current. Conversely, if the voltage regulator does not allow the alternator
to receive enough current, the battery will not be fully charged and will
eventually go dead.
The battery is connected to the alternator at all times, whether the ignition key is
turned ON or not. If the battery were shorted to ground, the alternator would
also be shorted. This woul d damage the alternator. To prevent this, a fuse link
is installed in the wiring between the battery and the alternator. If the battery is
shorted, the fuse link melts, protecting the alternator.
An alternator is better that a convent ional, DC shunt generator because it is
lighter and more compact, because it is designed to supply the battery and
accessory circuits through a wide range of engine speeds, and because it
eliminates the necessary maintenance of replacing brushes and servicing
commutators.
PRECAUTIONS

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ENGINE OVERHAUL TIPS

Most engine overhaul procedures are fair
ly standard. In addition to specific
parts replacement procedures and specifications for your individual engine, this
section is also a guide to acceptabl e rebuilding procedures. Examples of
standard rebuilding practice are given and should be used along with specific
details concerning your particular engine.
Competent and accurate machine sh op services will ensure maximum
performance, reliability and engin e life. In most instances it is more profitable for
the do-it-yourself mechanic to remove, clean and inspect the component, buy
the necessary parts and deliver these to a shop for actual machine work.
Much of the assembly work (crankshaft, bearings, piston rods, and other
components) is well within the scope of t he do-it-yourself mechanic's tools and
abilities. You will have to decide for your self the depth of involvement you desire
in an engine repair or rebuild.
TOOLS
The tools required for an engine overhaul or parts replacement will depend on
the depth of your involvement. With a few exceptions, they will be the tools
found in a mechanic's tool kit (see Gener al Information & Maintenance in this
repair guide). More in-depth work will requ ire some or all of the following:
• A dial indicator (reading in thousandths) mounted on a universal base
• Micrometers and telescope gauges
• Jaw and screw-type pullers
• Scraper
• Valve spring compressor
• Ring groove cleaner
• Piston ring expander and compressor
• Ridge reamer
• Cylinder hone or glaze breaker
• Plastigage®
• Engine stand
The use of most of these tools is illustra ted in this section. Many can be rented
for a one-time use from a local parts jobber or tool supply house specializing in
automotive work.
Occasionally, the use of special tools is called for. See the information on
Special Tools and the Safety Notice in General Information & Maintenance
before substituting another tool.
OVERHAUL TIPS
Aluminum has become extr emely popular for use in engines, due to its low
weight. Observe the follo wing precautions when handl ing aluminum parts:

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 513
1. Connect the vehicle battery.
2. Start the engine. Keep y
our eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does
not indicate oil pressure within 10 se conds of starting, turn the vehicle
off.
WARNING - Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil
pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any
leaks and if found, repair the leaks be fore continuing. If there is still no
indication of oil pressure, y ou may need to prime the system.
3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
4. Allow the engine to reach nor mal operating temperature (the upper
radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
5. If necessary, set the ignition timing.
6. Install any remaining components such as the air cleaner (if removed for
ignition timing) or body panels which were removed.
BREAKING IT IN
Make the first miles on the new engine , easy ones. Vary the speed but do not
accelerate hard. Most importantly, do not lug the engine, and avoid sustained
high speeds until at least 100 miles. Ch eck the engine oil and coolant levels
frequently. Expect the engine to use a littl e oil until the rings seat. Change the
oil and filter at 500 miles, 1500 mile s, then every 3000 miles past that.
KEEP IT MAINTAINED
Now that you have just gone through all of that hard work, keep yourself from
doing it all over again by thoroughly maintaining it. Not that you may not have
maintained it before, heck you c ould have had one to two hundred thousand
miles on it before doing this. However, you may have bought the vehicle used,
and the previous owner did not keep up on maintenance. Which is why you just
went through all of that hard work. See?

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Switch (TVS). The electrical type, cons
ists of a ceramic grid located under the
base of the carburetor.
A check of the operation should be made at regular maintenance intervals.
TESTING
VACUUM SERVO TYPE 1. With the engine cold, observe the posit ion of the actuator arm. Start the
engine. The arm should move toward the diaphragm (closing the valve).
2. If the arm does not move, remove the hose and check for vacuum. If still
no vacuum, remove the top hose from the TVS switch and check for
vacuum.
3. If vacuum is present in the top hose, replace the TVS switch.
4. If vacuum is present at the actuator and it does not move, try to free the
valve. If the valve cannot be freed, it must be replaced.
ELECTRICAL TYPE 1. Turn the ignition ON with the engine co ld and probe both terminals of the
heater switch connector with a test light.
• If 1 wire has power, replace the heater switch.
• If neither wire has power, repai r the ignition circuit.
• If both wires have power, probe the pink wire at the heater
connector (if no power, repair the c onnector of the heater switch).
2. If power exists at the pink wire , disconnect the heater connector and
connect a tester across the harness terminal. If no power, repair the
ground wire; if power exists, check the resistance of the heater.
3. If heater is over 3 ohm s, replace the heater. If under 3 ohms, replace the
connector, start the engine (operate to normal temperature) and probe
the pink wire. If no power, the system is OK; if power exists, replace the
heater switch.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
VACUUM SERVO TYPE 1. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the EFE.
2. Remove exhaust pipe to manifold nuts.
3. Remove the crossover pipe. Complete removal is not always necessary.
4. Remove the EFE valve.
To install: 5. Position the EFE valve into place.
6. Install the crossover pipe.
7. Install the exhaust pi pe to manifold nuts.
8. Connect the vacuum hose at the EFE.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 581

Fig. 1: Coolant temperature sensor. The in take air temperature sensor is similar
in appearance
IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) VALVE
OPERATION
Engine idle speeds are controlled by the ECM through the IAC valve mounted
on the throttle body. The ECM sends volt age pulses to the IAC motor windings
causing the IAC motor shaft and pintle to move IN or OUT a given distance
(number of steps) for each pulse (called counts). The movement of the pintle
controls the airflow around the throttle plat e, which in turn, controls engine idle
speed. IAC valve pintle position counts ca n be observed using a scan tool. Zero
counts correspond to a fully closed passage, while 140 counts or more
corresponds to full flow.
Idle speed can be categorized in 2 ways : actual (controlled) idle speed and
minimum idle speed. Contro lled idle speed is obtained by the ECM positioning
the IAC valve pintle. Resulting idle speed is determined by total air fl\
ow
(IAC/passage + PCV + throttle valve + ca librated vacuum leaks). Controlled idle
speed is specified at normal operating c onditions, which consists of engine
coolant at normal operating temper ature, air conditioning compressor OFF,
manual transmission in neutral or automatic transmission in D.
Minimum idle air speed is set at t he factory with a stop screw. This setting
allows a certain amount of air to bypas s the throttle valves regardless of IAC
valve pintle positioning. A co mbination of this air flow and IAC pintle positioning
allows the ECM to control engine idle speed. During normal engine idle
operation, the IAC valve pintle is positioned a calibrated number of steps
(counts) from the seat. No adjustment is required during routine maintenance.
Tampering with the minimum idle speed adjustment may result in premature
failure of the IAC valve or imprope rly controlled engine idle operation.