radiator hose CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1982, Model line: CAMARO, Model: CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982Pages: 875, PDF Size: 88.64 MB
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Fig. 9: A common oil pump drive location on V8 engines
4-CYLINDER ENGINES
There are two ways to go about this task: either remove the engine from the
car, or remove the radiator, grill and any other supports which are directly in
front of the engine. If the second altern ative is chosen, you may have to
disconnect the motor mounts, and raise t he front of the engine. This will give
you the necessary clearance to remove the camshaft from the engine.
1. Drain the engine oil an d the cooling system. Remove the radiator.
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8. According to the tool manufacture
r's instructions, connect a remote
starting switch to the starting circuit.
9. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, use the remote starting
switch to crank the engine through at least five compression strokes
(approximately 5 seconds of cranking) and record the highest reading on
the gauge.
10. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the
same number of compression stroke s and/or time as the first.
11. Compare the highest readi ngs from each cylinder to that of the others.
The indicated compression pre ssures are considered within
specifications if the lo west reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the
pressure recorded for the highest readi ng cylinder. For example, if your
highest reading cylinder pressure was 150 psi (1034 kPa), then 75
percent of that would be 113 psi (779 kPa). So the lowest reading
cylinder should be no less than 113 psi (779 kPa).
12. If a cylinder exhibits an unusually low compression reading, pour a
tablespoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug
hole and repeat the compression tes t. If the compression rises after
adding oil, it means that the cylinder's piston rings and/or cylinder bore
are damaged or worn. If the pressure re mains low, the valves may not be
seating properly (a valve job is needed), or the head gasket may be
blown near that cylinder. If compressi on in any two adjacent cylinders is
low, and if the addition of oil doesn' t help raise compression, there is
leakage past the head gasket. Oil and coolant in the combustion
chamber, combined with blue or const ant white smoke from the tail pipe,
are symptoms of this pr oblem. However, don't be alarmed by the normal
white smoke emitted from the tail pipe during engine warm-up or from
cold weather driving. There may be evidence of water droplets on the
engine dipstick and/or oil droplets in the cooling system if a head gasket
is blown.
OIL PRESSURE TEST
Check for proper oil pressu re at the sending unit passage with an externally
mounted mechanical oil pressure gauge (a s opposed to relying on a factory
installed dash-mounted gauge). A tachom eter may also be needed, as some
specifications may require running the engine at a specific rpm.
1. With the engine cold, locate and remo ve the oil pressure sending unit.
2. Following the manufacturer's inst ructions, connect a mechanical oil
pressure gauge and, if necessary, a tachometer to the engine.
3. Start the engine and allow it to idle.
4. Check the oil pressure reading when cold and record the number. You
may need to run the engine at a specified rpm, so check the
specifications chart located earlier in this section.
5. Run the engine until normal operati ng temperature is reached (upper
radiator hose will feel warm).
6. Check the oil pressure reading agai n with the engine hot and record the
number. Turn the engine OFF.
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1. Connect the vehicle battery.
2. Start the engine. Keep y
our eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does
not indicate oil pressure within 10 se conds of starting, turn the vehicle
off.
WARNING - Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil
pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any
leaks and if found, repair the leaks be fore continuing. If there is still no
indication of oil pressure, y ou may need to prime the system.
3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
4. Allow the engine to reach nor mal operating temperature (the upper
radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
5. If necessary, set the ignition timing.
6. Install any remaining components such as the air cleaner (if removed for
ignition timing) or body panels which were removed.
BREAKING IT IN
Make the first miles on the new engine , easy ones. Vary the speed but do not
accelerate hard. Most importantly, do not lug the engine, and avoid sustained
high speeds until at least 100 miles. Ch eck the engine oil and coolant levels
frequently. Expect the engine to use a littl e oil until the rings seat. Change the
oil and filter at 500 miles, 1500 mile s, then every 3000 miles past that.
KEEP IT MAINTAINED
Now that you have just gone through all of that hard work, keep yourself from
doing it all over again by thoroughly maintaining it. Not that you may not have
maintained it before, heck you c ould have had one to two hundred thousand
miles on it before doing this. However, you may have bought the vehicle used,
and the previous owner did not keep up on maintenance. Which is why you just
went through all of that hard work. See?
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b. Install plug, with hollow end do
wn, over the rich mixture stop
screw access hole and drive plug into place so that the top of the
plug is
3/16 in. (4.7mm) below the surface of the air horn casting.
Plug must be installed to retain screw setting.
12. To check the M/C solenoid dwell, first disconnect vacuum line to the
canister purge valve and plug it. Ground diagnostic TEST terminal and
run engine until it is at normal operat ion temperature (upper radiator
hose hot) and in closed loop.
13. Check M/C dwell at 3000 rpm. If within 10-50 degrees, calibration is
complete. If higher than 50 degrees, chec k the carburetor for a cause of
rich condition. If below 10 degrees, look for a cause of lean engine
condition such as vacuum leaks. If none are found, check for the cause
of a lean carburetor.
Fig. 22: Installing the mixture control solenoid gauging tool
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3. Make sure the ignition switch has
been in the OFF position for at least 10
seconds and that all accessories are OFF.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON and the pump will run for about 2 seconds.
Note the system pressure with t he pump running, it should be between
40-47 psi.
The ignition switch may have to be cycled to the ON position more than once to
obtain maximum pressure. It is also norma l for the pressure to drop slightly
when the pump first stops, but it should then hold steady.
5. If the pressure is not as specified, verify that fuel pump operation is
heard in the tank.
6. If fuel pump operation is not heard, inspect the fuel pump relay and
wiring.
7. If fuel pump operation is heard, inspect the filter and lines for restriction.
8. Start the engine and make sure the pr essure decreases about 3-10 psi at
idle.
9. If fuel pressure does not decrease, inspect the fuel pressure regulator
and hose.
10. Disconnect the fuel pressure gauge.
THROTTLE BODY
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery c able and partially drain the radiator.
2. Remove the air inlet duct and unplug the IAC and TPS electrical connectors.
3. Label and disconnect the vacuum and coolant lines.
4. Disconnect the accelerator, thro ttle valve (transmission control) and
cruise control cables, as applicable.
5. Remove the throttle body attaching bolts, then separate the throttle body from the plenum.
6. Discard the gasket.
To install: 7. Install the throttle body to the plenum using a new gasket. Tighten the \
bolts to specification.
8. Engage the accelerator, throttle valve and cruise control cables, as
necessary. Make sure that the link ages do not hold the throttle open.
9. Connect the vacuum and coolant lines.
10. Install the air inlet duct and plug the IAC and TPS electrical connectors
into their sockets.
11. Connect the negative (-) battery cable and refill the radiator.
12. With the engine OFF, check to s ee that the accelerator pedal is free.
Depress the pedal to the floor and release.
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Fig. 5: Periodically remove all debris from the radiator fins
CAUTION - Do not remove a radiator cap wh ile the engine and radiator are still
hot. Danger of burns by scalding fluid and steam under pressure may result!
1. With a cool engine, slowly rotate t he radiator cap counterclockwise to the
detent without pressing down on the cap.
2. Wait until any remaini ng pressure is relieved by listening for a hissing
sound.
3. After all the pressure is relieved, press down on the cap and continue to
rotate the radiator cap counterclockwise.
4. With a suitable container to catc h the fluid under the radiator, open the
radiator drain cock.
5. If equipped, remove the engine blo ck drain plugs and the knock sensor,
located on either side of the engine block. This will help to drain the
coolant from the block.
6. Loosen or slide the recovery tank hos e clamp at the radiator filler neck
overflow tube and remove the hose. Holding the hose down to the drain
pan, allow the recovery tank to empty. Attach the hose to the filler neck
overflow and tighten the clamp.
7. Close the radiator drain cock and install the engine block drain plug and
knock sensor. Tighten the knock sensor to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm), the engine
block drain plug to 15 ft. lbs. (21 N m), and the drain cock to 13 inch lbs.
(1.5 Nm).
8. Add enough coolant mixture to fill the system to a level just below the
radiator neck. Fill the reservoir a ssembly to the "FULL COLD" mark.