tow CHEVROLET EXPRESS 2010 Repair Manual

How to Add Automatic Transmission
Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of transmission fluid to use. SeeRecommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-12.
Using a funnel, add fluid down the transmission dipstick
tube only after checking the transmission fluid while it is
hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the fluid
level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring
the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not
take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L).
Do not overfill.
Notice:Use of the incorrect automatic transmission
uid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may
not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always
use the automatic transmission uid listed in
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-12.
•After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described
under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,”
earlier in this section.
•When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down
to lock the dipstick in place.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
(6-Speed Transmission)
When to Check and Change Automatic
Transmission Fluid
It is usually not necessary to check the transmission fluid
level. The only reason for fluid loss is a transmission
leak or overheating the transmission. If a small leak is
suspected, use the following procedures to check the
fluid level. However, if there is a large leak, then it may be
necessary to have the vehicle towed to a dealer/retailer
service department and have it repaired before driving
the vehicle further.
Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in
Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-3, and be sure
to use the transmission fluid listed inRecommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-12.
6-24

Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare the vehicle as follows:
1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in P (Park).
3. With foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. When M is reached,
move the selector from M1 through M3. Then,
position the shift lever in P (Park).
4. Let the engine run at idle for two minutes or more.
Then, without shutting Off the engine:
The transmission dipstick
is located near the center
of the engine compartment
and will be labeled with
the graphic shown.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 6-14for
more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.A. COLD Range
B. WARM Range
C. HOT Range
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The fluid level must be in the COLD (A) range
for a cold check, transmission temperature 27°C to
32°C (80°F to 90°F), between the COLD (A) and
HOT (C) range for a WARM (B) check, 50°C to 60°C
(122°F to 140°F) or in the HOT (C) cross-hatched
range for a hot check, 71°C to 93°C (160°F to
200°F). Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down
to get an accurate reading.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
6-26

If Steam Is Coming From The Engine
Compartment
{WARNING:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you
badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away
from the engine if you see or hear steam coming
from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from
the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there
is no sign of steam or coolant before you open
the hood.
If you keep driving when your engine is
overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or
others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if
it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the
engine is cool.
If No Steam Is Coming From The
Engine Compartment
If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam
can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too
serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too
hot when the vehicle:
•Climbs a long hill on a hot day.
•Stops after high-speed driving.
•Idles for long periods in traffic.
•Tows a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under
Towing a Trailer on page 5-30.
If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of
steam:
1. Turn the air off.
2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and
to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as
necessary.
3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the
road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let
the engine idle.
6-36

If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the
overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer
displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive
the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe
vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the
warning does not come back on, continue to drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the
vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice
as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes
while you are parked. If you still have the warning,
turn off the engine until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the
clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air
to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions,
the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully
engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan
noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/
or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases
as the clutch more fully engages, so you may hear an
increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be
mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra
shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly.
The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not
required and the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
6-37

If the vehicle has dual rear wheels and the tread
design for the front tires is different from the dual
rear tires, always use the correct rotation pattern
shown here when rotating the tires. The dual tires
are rotated as a pair and the inside rear tires
become the outside rear tires.
When you install dual wheels, be sure that vent
holes in the inner and outer wheels on each
side are lined up.
Also seeDual Tire Operation on page 6-70for
additional information.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front
and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire
and Loading Information label. SeeInation - TirePressure on page 6-68andLoading the Vehicle
on page 5-19. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specications on page 6-116.
{WARNING:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all
the rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on
page 6-86.
If your vehicle has a Tire Pressure Monitor
System (TPMS), reset the TPMS sensors after
rotating the tires. SeeTire Pressure Monitor
Operation on page 6-72.
Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push,
pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it
moves, tighten the cable. SeeStoring a Flat or
Spare Tire and Tools on page 6-100.
6-77

If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would use
in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{WARNING:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the
appropriate safety equipment and training. If a jack
is provided with the vehicle, it is designed only for
changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else,
you or others could be badly injured or killed if the
vehicle slips off the jack. If a jack is provided with
the vehicle, only use it for changing a flat tire.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
6-85

1. Assemble the wheel wrench (G) to one or two of
the jack handle extensions and the hoist extension.
Insert the hoist extension end through the hole
in the rear bumper.
2. Be sure the hoist extension end connects to the
hoist shaft (E). The chiseled end of the extension
is used to lower the spare tire.
3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower
the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the
wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out
from under the vehicle.
If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the
secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to
lower. SeeSecondary Latch System on page 6-97.4. When the tire has been lowered, pull the tire toward
you so you can reach the tire retainer and pull it up
through the wheel opening.
If you have a vehicle which was completed from
a cab and chassis, refer to the information
from body supplier/installer.
The spare tire is a full-size tire, like the other tires
on the vehicle.
5. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.
6-89

{WARNING:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is
fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after
time. The wheel could come off and cause an
accident. When changing a wheel, remove any rust
or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a paper
towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off.
SeeChanging a Flat Tire on page 6-86.8. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
{WARNING:
Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because
the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel
could fall off, causing a crash.
6-94

9. Put the wheel nuts
back on with the
rounded end of the
nuts toward the wheel.
Tighten each wheel
nut by hand until
the wheel is held
against the hub.
10. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
{WARNING:
Wheel nuts that are not tight can work loose. If all
the nuts on a wheel come off, the wheel can come
off the vehicle, causing a crash. All wheel nuts
must be properly tightened. Follow the rules in this
section to be sure they are.
{WARNING:
If wheel studs are damaged, they can break. If all
the studs on a wheel broke, the wheel could come
off and cause a crash. If any stud is damaged
because of a loose-running wheel, it could be that
all of the studs are damaged. To be sure, replace
all studs on the wheel. If the stud holes in a wheel
have become larger, the wheel could collapse in
operation. Replace any wheel if its stud holes have
become larger or distorted in any way. Inspect hubs
and hub-piloted wheels for damage. Because of
loose running wheels, piloting pad damage may
occur and require replacement of the entire hub, for
proper centering of the wheels. When replacing
studs, hubs, wheel nuts or wheels, be sure to use
GM original equipment parts.
6-95

Secondary Latch System
Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist
assembly equipped with a secondary latch system.
It is designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling
off the vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is
damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the tire
must be stowed with the valve stem pointing down.
SeeStoring a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on
page 6-100for instructions on storing the spare tire
correctly.
{WARNING:
Before beginning this procedure read all the
instructions. Failure to read and follow the
instructions could damage the hoist assembly
and you and others could get hurt. Read and
follow the instructions listed next.To release the spare tire from the secondary latch:
{WARNING:
Someone standing too close during the procedure
could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does
not slide off the jack completely, make sure no
one is behind you or on either side of you as you
pull the jack out from under the spare.
1. Check under the
vehicle to see if the
cable end is visible.
If the cable is not
visible, start this
procedure at Step 6.
2. Turn the hoist extension counterclockwise until
approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.
6-97