tow CHEVROLET EXPRESS CARGO VAN 2006 1.G Workshop Manual

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission dipstick
is located near the center
of the engine compartment
and will be labeled with
the graphic shown.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for
a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched
area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick
pointed down to get an accurate reading.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
5-21

If No Steam Is Coming From
Your Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
•Climb a long hill on a hot day.
•Stop after high-speed driving.
•Idle for long periods in traffic.
•Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under
Towing a Trailer on page 4-37.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road,
shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning does not come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, and you have not stopped, pull
over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast
as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while
you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the
engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it
cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
Cooling System
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Van Models”
under “Cooling System” in the DURAMAX®Diesel
Supplement.
5-26

Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages,
so you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal
and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling
system functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the clutch
partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
Power Steering Fluid
The power steering fluid
reservoir is located in the
engine compartment
on the driver’s side of the
vehicle. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview on
page 5-12for reservoir
location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid
unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or
you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired.
5-32

After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and
Loading Information label. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 4-30. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specications on page 5-99.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get
all the rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire
on page 5-71.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it is
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of tread
remaining. Some
commercial truck tires
may not have treadwear
indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
•You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
•You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
•The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
•The tire has a bump, bulge, or split.
•The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that
cannot be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
5-63

If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
5-70

3. Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to lower the
spare tire to the ground. If the spare tire does
not lower to the ground, the secondary latch
is engaged causing the tire not to lower.
SeeSecondary Latch System on page 5-80.4. When the tire has been lowered, pull the tire toward
you so you can reach the tire retainer and pull it up
through the wheel opening.
If you have a vehicle which was completed from a cab
and chassis, refer to the information from the body
supplier/installer.
The spare tire is a full-size tire, like the other tires on
your vehicle.
5-74

{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
the places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use
a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get
all the rust or dirt off.
7. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.
If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your
wheel could fall off, causing a serious
accident.
8. Put the wheel nuts
back on with the
rounded end of the
nuts toward the wheel.
Tighten each wheel
nut by hand until
the wheel is held
against the hub.
9. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
5-78

Secondary Latch System
Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist
assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is
designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling
off the vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is
damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the tire must
be stowed with the valve stem pointing down.
SeeStoring a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-82
for instructions on storing the spare tire correctly.
{CAUTION:
Before beginning this procedure read all the
instructions. Failure to read and follow the
instructions could damage the hoist assembly
and you and others could get hurt. Read and
follow the instructions listed below.To release the spare tire from the secondary latch,
do the following:
{CAUTION:
Someone standing too close during the
procedure could be injured by the jack.
If the spare tire does not slide off the jack
completely, make sure no one is behind you or
on either side of you as you pull the jack out
from the spare.
1. Check under the
vehicle to see if the
cable end is visible.
If the cable is not visible,
start this procedure at
Step 6.
5-80

2. Pull the retaining bar through the center of the
wheel, making sure it is properly attached.
3. Pull the wheel toward the rear of the vehicle,
keeping the cable tight.
4. With the UP side facing you, attach the ratchet to
the wheel wrench.
5. Put the flat end of the wheel wrench on an angle
through the hole in the rear door frame, above the
bumper.
6. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the
vehicle. Continue turning the ratchet until the tire
is secure and the cable is tight. The spare tire hoist
cannot be overtightened.7. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull (A),
and then try to turn (B) the tire. If the tire moves,
use the ratchet to tighten the cable.
You will hear two clicks when the tire is up all
the way.
8. Return the jacking equipment to the proper location.
Secure the items and replace the jack cover.
5-83

Fabric/Carpet
Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment
frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister
vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only
be used on floor carpet and carpeted floor mats.
For soils, always try to remove them first with plain
water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as
much of the soil as possible using one of the following
techniques:
•For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a
paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the
paper towel until no more can be removed.
•For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible
and then vacuum.To clean, use the following instructions:
1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with water or
club soda.
2. Wring the cloth to remove excess moisture.
3. Start on the outside edge of the soil and gently rub
toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean
area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled.
4. Continue to gently rub the soiled area until the
cleaning cloth remains clean.
5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild
soap solution and repeat the cleaning process
that was used with plain water.
If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or
spot lifter may be necessary. When a commercial
upholstery cleaner or spot lifter is to be used, test a
small hidden area for colorfastness first. If the locally
cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation
may result, clean the entire surface.
After the cleaning process has been completed, a paper
towel can be used to blot excess moisture from the
fabric or carpet.
5-86