ESP CHEVROLET EXPRESS CARGO VAN 2008 1.G User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 2008, Model line: EXPRESS CARGO VAN, Model: CHEVROLET EXPRESS CARGO VAN 2008 1.GPages: 414, PDF Size: 2.34 MB
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Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems — brakes,
steering, and acceleration — do not have enough
friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver
has asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer
and constantly seek an escape route or area of less
danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are
not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you
want to slow down and adjust your driving to these
conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance is longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your
best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking,
including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower
gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to
slide. You might not realize the surface is slippery until
your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on
the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down
when you have any doubt.
Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps
avoid only the braking skid.
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Page 216 of 414

Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving
because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by
alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by
fatigue.
Night driving tips include:
•Drive defensively.
•Do not drink and drive.
•Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside
rearview mirror.
•Slow down and keep more space between you and
other vehicles because your headlamps can only
light up so much road ahead.
•Watch for animals.
•When tired, pull off the road.
•Do not wear sunglasses.
•Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps.
•Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle
clean — inside and out.
•Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or
curves.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But,
as we get older, these differences increase. A
50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much
light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
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Page 222 of 414

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking the exhaust pipe and/or the fuel
operated heater exhaust system, if equipped.
And check around again from time to time to
be sure snow does not collect there. If your
vehicle has a diesel engine and a fuel operated
heater, see “Fuel Operated Heater (FOH)” in
the diesel engine supplement.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
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Page 242 of 414

Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle.
You can not see or smell CO. It can cause
unconsciousness or death. SeeEngine
Exhaust on page 2-31. To maximize your safety
when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle. Do not use
the climate control setting for maximum air
because it only recirculates the air inside
your vehicle. See Climate Control System
in the Index.Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
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Page 245 of 414

When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
•start your engine,
•shift into a gear, and
•release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you find them quickly. If
you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
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Page 268 of 414

How to Check Automatic
Transmission Fluid
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can damage
your transmission. Too much can mean that some
of the uid could come out and fall on hot engine
parts or exhaust system parts, starting a re.
Too little uid could cause the transmission to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you
check your transmission uid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
•When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
•At high speed for quite a while.
•In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
•While pulling a trailer.To get the right reading, the fluid should be at
normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F
(82°C to 93°C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about
15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above
50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive
the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature
gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes.
A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle
has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine
off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the
engine run at idle for five minutes if outside
temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder
than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine
longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold
check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid.
Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate
reading of the fluid level.
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Page 308 of 414

DOT Markings:A code molded into the sidewall
of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance
with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT)
motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code
includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN),
an alphanumeric designator which can also identify
the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand,
and date of production.
GVWR
:Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See
Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-20.
GAWR FRT
:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the
front axle. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 4-20.
GAWR RR
:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear
axle. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-20.
Intended Outboard Sidewall
:The side of
an asymmetrical tire, that must always face
outward when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa)
:The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire
:A tire used on
light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger
vehicles.
Load Index
:An assigned number ranging from
1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying
capacity of a tire.Maximum In ation Pressure
:The maximum air
pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated.
The maximum air pressure is molded onto the
sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating
:The load rating for a tire
at the maximum permissible inflation pressure
for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight
:The sum of
curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity
weight, and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight
:The number of
occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied
by 150 lbs (68 kg). SeeLoading Your Vehicle
on page 4-20.
Occupant Distribution
:Designated seating
positions.
Outward Facing Sidewall
:The side of an
asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that
faces outward when mounted on a vehicle.
The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears
white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand,
and/or model name molding that is higher
or deeper than the same moldings on the other
sidewall of the tire.
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