steering CHEVROLET HHR 2008 1.G Owner's Guide

An emergency like this requires close attention and a
quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at
the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you
can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without
removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer
quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel
once you have avoided the object.
The fact that such emergency situations are always
possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving
at all times and wear safety belts properly.
Off-Road Recovery
You may nd that your vehicle’s right wheels have
dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while
you are driving.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the
pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the
accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way,
steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of
the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to
one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts
the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go
straight down the roadway.
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Passing
Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be
dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing,
we suggest the following tips:
Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads
for situations that might affect a successful pass. If
in doubt, wait.
Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and
lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection.
Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side
of the lane.
Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to
pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.
Wait your turn to pass a slow vehicle.
When you are being passed, ease to the right.
Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems — brakes,
steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction
where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has
asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer
and constantly seek an escape route or area of less
danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are
not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
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A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle has the Traction Control System (TCS) or
the Enhanced Traction System (ETS), remember: It
helps to avoid only the acceleration skid. SeeTraction
Control System (TCS) on page 4-6orEnhanced
Traction System (ETS) on page 4-9. If you do not have
TCS or ETS, or if the system is off, then an acceleration
skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the
accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.
If your vehicle has Electronic Stability Control (ESC),
the ESC might activate. SeeElectronic Stability
Control (ESC) on page 4-10.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you
will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your
best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking,
including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower
gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to
slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until
your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on
the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down
when you have any doubt.
If you have the Antilock Brake System (ABS),
remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do
not have ABS, then in a braking skid, where the
wheels are no longer rolling, release enough pressure
on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This
restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down
steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the
wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.
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Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
Traction control improves your ability to accelerate when
driving on a slippery road. Even if your vehicle has
the Traction Control System (TCS) or Enhanced Traction
System (ETS), slow down and adjust your driving to
the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you might
want to turn the TCS or ETS off, such as when driving
through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain
vehicle motion at lower speeds or if your vehicle
ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. SeeTraction
Control System (TCS) on page 4-6,Enhanced Traction
System (ETS) on page 4-9,Electronic Stability
Control (ESC) on page 4-10, andIf Your Vehicle is
Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-26.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Unless your vehicle has the Antilock Brake
System (ABS), you will want to brake very gently, too.
If you have ABS, seeAntilock Brake System (ABS)
on page 4-5. ABS improves your vehicle’s stability when
you make a hard stop on a slippery road.Whether your vehicle has ABS or not, begin stopping
sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without ABS, if
you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the
brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to
get the most traction you can.
Remember, unless your vehicle has ABS, if you brake
so hard that the wheels stop rolling, you will just
slide. Brake so the wheels always keep rolling and you
can still steer.
Whatever your vehicle’s braking system, allow
greater following distance on any slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in
shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such
as around clumps of trees, behind buildings,
or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve
or an overpass can remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of
ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not
to brake while you are actually on the ice, and
avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
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If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-26.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often
help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s
traction system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too
severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn
the traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. The vehicle can overheat,
causing an engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible
and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-74.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the
area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction
system. SeeTraction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6,
Enhanced Traction System (ETS) on page 4-9, and
Electronic Stability Control (ESC) on page 4-10. Then
shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a
forward gear, or with a manual transmission, between
FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning
the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission
wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting
gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and
press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the
transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in
the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a
rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does
not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to
be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be towed out,
seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
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With the proper preparation and equipment, many
vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy
Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following.
Here are some important things to consider before you
do recreational vehicle towing:
What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
Do you have the proper towing equipment?
See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for
additional advice and equipment recommendations.
Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you
would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you
will want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to
be towed. SeeBefore Leaving on a Long Trip
on page 4-20.
Dinghy Towing
You may dinghy tow your vehicle from the front following
these steps:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Turn the ignition key to ACC to unlock the steering
wheel.
3. Shift your transmission to NEUTRAL (N).
4. Release the parking brake.
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Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You will need more passing distance up ahead when
you are towing a trailer. And, because the vehicle
is a good deal longer, you will need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to
your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring. Check
with your dealer/retailer. The arrows on your instrument
panel will ash whenever you signal a turn or lane
change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you are about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
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Tire Terminology and Denitions
Air Pressure:The amount of air inside the
tire pressing outward on each square inch of the
tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per
square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight
:This means the combined
weight of optional accessories. Some examples of
optional accessories are, automatic transmission,
power steering, power brakes, power windows,
power seats, and air conditioning.
Aspect Ratio
:The relationship of a tire’s height
to its width.
Belt
:A rubber coated layer of cords that is located
between the plies and the tread. Cords may be
made from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead
:The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped
by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire
:A pneumatic tire in which the plies
are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees
to the centerline of the tread.Cold Tire Pressure
:The amount of air pressure
in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch
(psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up
heat from driving. SeeInflation - Tire Pressure
on page 5-60.
Curb Weight
:The weight of a motor vehicle with
standard and optional equipment including the
maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant,
but without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings
:A code molded into the sidewall
of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance
with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT)
motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code
includes the Tire Identication Number (TIN),
an alphanumeric designator which can also identify
the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand,
and date of production.
GVWR
:Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.
SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-27.
GAWR FRT
:Gross Axle Weight Rating for
the front axle. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 4-27.
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If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire creates a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer.
Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
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Fuses Usage
1 Fuse Puller
2 Empty
3 Empty
4 Empty
5 Empty
6 Amplier
7 Cluster
8 Ignition Switch, PASS-Key
®III+
9 Stoplamp
10Heating, Ventilation, Air
Conditioning, PASS-Key
®III+
11 Empty
12 Spare
13 Airbag
14 Spare
15 Windshield Wiper
16 Climate Control System, Ignition
17 Window Retained Accessory Power
18 Empty
Fuses Usage
19Electric Power Steering, Steering
Wheel Control
20 Sunroof
21 Spare
22 Empty
23 Audio System
24 XM Radio™, OnStar™
25Engine Control Module,
Transmission Control Module
26 Door Locks
27 Interior Lights
28 Steering Wheel Control Illumination
29 Power Windows
Relays Usage
30 Climate Control System
31 Empty
32 Retained Accessory Power (RAP)
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