air condition CHEVROLET KODIAK 2008 User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 2008, Model line: KODIAK, Model: CHEVROLET KODIAK 2008Pages: 384, PDF Size: 5.4 MB
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Antilock Brake System (ABS)
Your vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an
advanced electronic braking system that will help
prevent a braking skid.
When you start the engine and begin to drive away,
ABS will check itself. You might hear a momentary
motor or clicking noise while this test is going on. This
is normal.
If there is a problem with
ABS, this warning light will
stay on. SeeAnti-lock
Brake System (ABS)
Warning Light on
page 3-34.
Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely.
Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam
on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what
happens with ABS:
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If
one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer
will separately work the brakes at each wheel.ABS can change the brake pressure faster than any
driver could. The computer is programmed to make the
most of available tire and road conditions. This can
help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
As you brake, the computer keeps receiving updates
on wheel speed and controls braking pressure
accordingly.
Remember: ABS does not change the time you need
to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always
decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to
the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to
apply the brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or
stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop,
even though you have ABS.
Using ABS
Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal
down firmly and let antilock work for you. You might feel
the brakes pulsate, or you might hear air exhausting
if your vehicle has air brakes, but this is normal.
Braking in Emergencies
With ABS, you can steer and brake at the same time.
In many emergencies, steering can help you more than
even the very best braking.
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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery (or batteries) charged. You will
need a well-charged battery (or batteries) to restart the
vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the
headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
If you have a diesel engine, you may have to run it at a
higher speed to get enough heat.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help
keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do
some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until
help comes.If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-20.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe
for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the
traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. The vehicle can overheat,
causing an engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible
and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.
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4. Turn the ignition key to START for 10 to 15 seconds
at a time until your engine starts. If the engine tries
to run, but does not run smoothly, increase the rpm
a little using the accelerator pedal. This will help
force air through the system.
Your service engine soon light may come on if the
vehicle has run out of fuel. This light may stay on for a
few drive cycles after the condition is corrected, but
will eventually clear itself.
Fuel Filter Replacement
If you want to change the diesel engine fuel filter
yourself, here is how to do it:
{CAUTION:
Diesel fuel is ammable. It could start a re if
something ignites it, and you could be burned.
Do not let it get on hot engine parts, and keep
matches or other ignition sources away.
First, drain any water from the filter by following the
water draining procedure earlier in this section.
Your vehicle’s engine should be off until the end of this
procedure.If your vehicle has the 6.6L engine, the fuel filter is
located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side
of the vehicle. If your vehicle has either the 7.2L or
7.8L engine, the fuel filters are located in the engine
compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle, and on
the driver’s side frame rail in front of the fuel tank.
1. Apply the parking brake.
2. Unplug the water
sensor wire connected
to the fuel filter and
unscrew the filter
element.
3. Remove the filter element. If there is any dirt on the
filter sealing surface, clean it off. Remove and reuse
the water sensor float switch located on the bottom of
the fuel filter.
4. Install the new filter element.
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When to Inspect the Engine Air
Cleaner/Filters
If your vehicle has this feature, the gage is located in
the engine compartment either on or near the air
cleaner. It monitors the engine air filter and will let you
know when the filter should be replaced. If you are driving
in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter each oil change.
As the filter gets dirty, the yellow indicator will begin to
rise. When it reaches the red/orange change area,
the filter should be replaced. Reset the indicator after
each filter replacement.
How to Inspect the Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter (DURAMAX®Diesel 6.6L,
V8 Gas and CAT Diesel Engines)
{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ lter
off can cause you or others to be burned.
The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps
to stop ames if the engine back res. If it is
not there and the engine back res, you could
be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be
careful working on the engine with the air
cleaner/ lter off.
Notice:If the air cleaner/ lter is off, a back re can
cause a damaging engine re. And, dirt can easily
get into your engine, which will damage it. Always
have the air cleaner/ lter in place when you are
driving.
The engine air cleaner/filter is located in the center of
the engine compartment.
To inspect the engine air cleaner/filter, remove the filter
from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release
loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a
new filter is required.
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Hood Inlet Seal
If your vehicle is being used in heavy snow conditions
or for snow plowing, there is a possibility of snow and
ice build up in the inlet to the air cleaner, blocking airflow
to the engine and negatively impacting engine
performance.
To prevent the blocking of air, remove the hood inlet
seal, by doing the following:
1. Loosen the clamp that holds the seal to the air
cleaner.
2. Slide the seal off.3. Store the seal in the inlet, located on the underside
of the hood.
4. Store the clamp on the coolant surge tank. Pull the
overflow tube out of the white plastic retainer, slip
the clamp over and reinstall the hose.
The seal will need to be replaced on to the air cleaner
for normal driving, especially in the warmer months.
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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start
the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper
radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine
cooling fan.
By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant
surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank
until the level reaches slightly above the FULL
COLD mark.
5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the
pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves
fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside
temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch
engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This
is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling
system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when
additional cooling is not required and the clutch
disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
Power Steering Fluid
SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-5to determine
when to check your power steering fluid.
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When to Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to change the lubricant. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 6-5.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeePart C: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-31.
Front Axle
When to Check Lubricant
It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid
unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an
unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem.
Have it inspected and repaired.
Notice:If you drive your vehicle through deep
water that is higher than the front or rear axle, water
may enter the axle housing and cause the axle
lubricant to break down. This could damage the
gears inside. Avoid driving your vehicle through
deep water.You should avoid driving your vehicle through deep
puddles or standing water. If you must drive through
water that is higher than the front or rear axle, see your
dealer immediately afterward to have the condition of
the axle lubricant checked.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you may need to add some lubricant.
Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of
the filler plug hole.
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Dual Tire Operation
When the vehicle is new, check the wheel nut tightness
on all wheels with a torque wrench after your first
100 miles (160 km) and then 1,000 miles (1 600 km)
after that. Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is
removed or serviced, repeat the 100 miles (160 km),
and then 1,000 mile (1 600 km) wheel nut tightness
check.
SeeTightening the Wheel Nuts on page 5-86for wheel
nut tightening information and proper torque values.
{CAUTION:
If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is
badly underin ated, the tire can overheat. An
overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch
re. You or others could be injured. Be sure all
tires (including the spare, if any) are properly
in ated.
SeeTires on page 5-82andInflation - Tire Pressure on
page 5-82for more information on proper tire inflation.
When It Is Time for New Tires
Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures,
driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions,
influence when you need new tires.
Replace your tires when the tread depth is down to
1/8 of an inch (3.2 mm) for the front tires, or 1/16 of an
inch (1.6 mm) for a rear tire. Also, you need a new
tire if:
•You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
•The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
•The tire has a bump, bulge, or split.
•The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that
cannot be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are
not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if
your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast
this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading
conditions, and inflation pressure maintenance. With
proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out
before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about
the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult
the tire manufacturer for more information.
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Underbody Maintenance
Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust
control can collect on the underbody. If these are not
removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the
underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan,
and exhaust system even though they have corrosion
protection.
At least every spring, flush these materials from the
underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud
and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of
the frame should be loosened before being flushed.
Your dealer/retailer or an underbody car washing system
can do this for you.
Chemical Paint Spotting
Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a
chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and
attack painted surfaces on the vehicle. This damage can
take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped discolorations,
and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint
surface.
Although no defect in the paint job causes this, we will
repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new
vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within
12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase,
whichever occurs first.
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
Description Usage
Polishing Cloth
Wax-TreatedInterior and exterior
polishing cloth.
Tar and Road Oil
RemoverRemoves tar, road oil and
asphalt.
Chrome Cleaner and
PolishUse on chrome or
stainless steel.
White Sidewall Tire
CleanerRemoves soil and black
marks from whitewalls.
Vinyl Cleaner Cleans vinyl.
Glass CleanerRemoves dirt, grime,
smoke and fingerprints.
Chrome and Wire Wheel
CleanerRemoves dirt and grime
from chrome wheels and
wire wheel covers.
Finish EnhancerRemoves dust,
fingerprints, and surface
contaminants. Spray on
wipe off.
Swirl Remover PolishRemoves swirl marks,
fine scratches and other
light surface
contamination.
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Fuse Usage
1 Stoplamps
2 Not Used
3 Parking Lamps
4 Powertrain Control Module
5 Auxiliary Wiring
6 Heater/Air ConditioningFuse Usage
7 Hazard Warning Flashers
8 Power Post
9 Courtesy Lamps
10Warning Lights, Gages and
Indicators
11 Starter
12 Rear Axle/Four-Wheel-Drive
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