maintenance CHEVROLET KODIAK 2008 Owner's Guide

Hydraulic Brake Pads
Brake pad lining life will vary depending on vehicle
application, working environment, equipment
maintenance, and style of driving. The brake pad lining
wear rate has to be monitored for individual driving
habits — original equipment linings have mechanical
wear indicators to help with this. When you are down to
the last 10% of the brake lining, the brake lining wear
indicator will rub on the rotor, causing a scratching or
chirping sound. When you hear this sound, it is time to
service the brake pads. SeeScheduled Maintenance on
page 6-5.
Aftermarket brake linings might not meet the same
stringent requirements as the original equipment linings.
Using aftermarket brake linings can affect braking
performance, pedal feel, noise, and lining wear.
Air Brake Systems
If your vehicle has air brakes, it is important to get rid of
moisture in the system. Moisture will damage the
system if it is not removed daily.
There are two ways to do this. One is automatic through
the air brake vehicle’s air dryer with integral automatic
moisture ejector that purges air from the system through
a self-contained reservoir. The other way to drain
moisture from the air brake system is to manually activate
drain valves at each reservoir. Drain the air reservoirs
occasionally to be sure the air dryer is working properly.Drain the air brakes at full system pressure. To be sure
you are at full pressure, check the air pressure gage.
It should read at least 100 psi (692 kPa).
Air Dryer
If your vehicle has air brakes, it has an air dryer
mounted on the passenger side frame rail. This collects
and removes dirt, moisture, or other foreign matter
from the air prior to entering the brake system. The dryer
also acts as a moisture ejector. It automatically ejects
the moisture when the compressor cycles. The
purge tank has a manual drain valve that must be
drained every day. See “Air Brake Systems” for the
manual drain procedure.
The dryer has a filter that you need to change at
intervals. SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-5for
more about servicing this filter.
Electric Air Compressor
Your vehicle might have an electric air compressor. This
compressor is used to run options that require
pressurized air, such as an air horn or air seat.
The air compressor is used when vehicles do not have
an air brake system.
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The air supply for this
system must be
maintained by releasing
the drain valve to eject any
moisture that could have
built up in the system.
It is recommended that this system be drained on a
weekly basis.Clutch Pedal Free Travel
If you have a V8 engine and a manual transmission, the
clutch will need adjustment when pedal free travel gets
down to about 1/4 inch (6 mm), as measured at the clutch
pedal pad. You should have 1 1/2 to 2 inches
(38 to 51 mm) of clutch pedal free travel.
If the clutch ever needs service, be sure to use only
approved clutch replacement parts.
Chassis Lubrication
Your Maintenance Schedule provides all of the required
chassis lubrication intervals and identifies proper
lubricants to use. Be sure to see the Maintenance
Schedule before performing any chassis lubrication
service. To determine location of chassis lubrication
items, use the following charts.
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Battery
Your vehicle has two or more maintenance free
batteries. When it is time for a new battery, see your
dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number
shown on the original battery’s label.
Warning:Battery posts, terminals, and related
accessories contain lead and lead compounds,
chemicals known to the State of California to cause
cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after
handling.
Vehicle Storage
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas
that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you
are not careful. SeeJump Starting on
page 5-67for tips on working around a battery
without getting hurt.
Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently,
remove the black, negative (−) cable from each battery.
This will help keep the batteries from running down.
Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle,
remove the black, negative (−) cable from each battery
or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain
the charge of the batteries over an extended period
of time.
When you are ready to use the vehicle again, refer to
the engine starting procedure in the Index.
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Rear Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine
how often to check the lubricant and when to change it.
SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-5.
Notice:If you drive your vehicle through deep
water that is higher than the front or rear axle, water
may enter the axle housing and cause the axle
lubricant to break down. This could damage
the gears inside. Avoid driving your vehicle through
deep water.
You should avoid driving your vehicle through deep
puddles or standing water. If you must drive through
water that is higher than the front or rear axle, see your
dealer immediately afterward to have the condition of
the axle lubricant checked.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
located on the rear axle, you’ll need to add some
lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the
bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeePart C: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-31.
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Rear Axle Shift Motor
When to Check and Change Fluid
If you have an optional air-shift two-speed, controlled
traction, or locking differential type rear axle, a good time
to check the fluid level in the axle shift motor is when
the rear axle lubricant is checked.
How to Check Fluid
Remove the plug on the front plate of the axle shift
motor, add enough fluid to raise the level to the bottom
of the filler plug hole, then replace the plug.
What to Use
Refer to your Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeePart C: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-31.
Four-Wheel Drive
Transfer Case
When to Check Lubricant
It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case fluid
unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an
unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem.
Have it inspected and repaired.
How to Check Lubricant
A. Fill Plug
B. Drain Plug
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the fill plug hole,
located on the transfer case, you’ll need to add some
lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to
the bottom of the fill plug hole. Use care not to
overtighten the plug.
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When to Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to change the lubricant. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 6-5.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeePart C: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-31.
Front Axle
When to Check Lubricant
It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid
unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an
unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem.
Have it inspected and repaired.
Notice:If you drive your vehicle through deep
water that is higher than the front or rear axle, water
may enter the axle housing and cause the axle
lubricant to break down. This could damage the
gears inside. Avoid driving your vehicle through
deep water.You should avoid driving your vehicle through deep
puddles or standing water. If you must drive through
water that is higher than the front or rear axle, see your
dealer immediately afterward to have the condition of
the axle lubricant checked.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you may need to add some lubricant.
Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of
the filler plug hole.
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What to Use
To determine what kind of lubricant to use seePart C:
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-31.
Noise Control System
Tampering with Noise Control
System Prohibited
The following information relates to compliance with
federal noise emission standards for vehicles with
a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than
10,000 lbs (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule
provides information on maintaining the noise control
system to minimize degradation of the noise emission
control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise
control system warranty is given in your warranty
booklet.These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing
thereof:
1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any
person, other than for purposes of maintenance,
repair or replacement, of any device or element of
design incorporated into any new vehicle for the
purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery
to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or
2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element
of design has been removed or rendered inoperative
by any person.
Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are
the acts listed below.
Insulation:
•
Removal of the noise shields or any underhood
insulation.
Engine:
•
Removal or rendering engine speed governor, if the
vehicle has one, inoperative so as to allow engine
speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.
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Other Service Items
Fuel Filter
Fuel Filter/Pressure Regulator
(Gasoline Engines)
The steel fuel filter/pressure regulator is located near
the engine compartment on the driver’s side frame rail.
If your vehicle has a rear steel fuel tank, the fuel
filter/pressure regulator is located near the rear fuel tank,
on the driver’s side frame rail. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 6-5for recommended service
intervals.
If your vehicle is equipped with the optional Davco
spin-on type filter, it is located on the driver’s side
frame rail.
Fuel Filter (Diesel Engines)
If you have a diesel engine, your fuel filter is located in
the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the
vehicle, or along the driver’s side frame rail. See “Fuel
Filter Replacement” earlier in this section for further
information.
Also seeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-5for
recommended service intervals.
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Front Wheel Bearings with
Oil-Filled Hubs
Notice:If you drive your vehicle through deep
water that is higher than the front or rear axle, water
may enter the axle housing and cause the axle
lubricant to break down. This could damage the
gears inside. Avoid driving your vehicle through
deep water.
You should avoid driving your vehicle through deep
puddles or standing water. If you must drive through
water that is higher than the front or rear axle, see your
dealer immediately afterward to have the condition of
the axle lubricant checked.If your vehicle has oil-filled
hubs, occasionally check
to see if they have enough
oil. You can tell if there
is oil there by using
the circular gage on the
sight glass.
If there isn’t, clean the rubber fill plug in the center of
the glass, and then remove it. Be careful not to
allow any dirt or water to get into the oil. Add enough of
the recommended oil to bring it up to the level mark
that you’ll see on the glass.
Refer to your Maintenance Schedule for the proper oil
to use.
When you fill the hub, check the glass again after
driving a short distance. It takes a while for the oil to
flow through the system, and you may find that you have
to add a little more to fill it to the proper level. Be sure
not to overfill the hub.
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Dual Tire Operation
When the vehicle is new, check the wheel nut tightness
on all wheels with a torque wrench after your first
100 miles (160 km) and then 1,000 miles (1 600 km)
after that. Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is
removed or serviced, repeat the 100 miles (160 km),
and then 1,000 mile (1 600 km) wheel nut tightness
check.
SeeTightening the Wheel Nuts on page 5-86for wheel
nut tightening information and proper torque values.
{CAUTION:
If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is
badly underinated, the tire can overheat. An
overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch
re. You or others could be injured. Be sure all
tires (including the spare, if any) are properly
inated.
SeeTires on page 5-82andInflation - Tire Pressure on
page 5-82for more information on proper tire inflation.
When It Is Time for New Tires
Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures,
driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions,
influence when you need new tires.
Replace your tires when the tread depth is down to
1/8 of an inch (3.2 mm) for the front tires, or 1/16 of an
inch (1.6 mm) for a rear tire. Also, you need a new
tire if:
•You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
•The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
•The tire has a bump, bulge, or split.
•The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that
cannot be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are
not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if
your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast
this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading
conditions, and inflation pressure maintenance. With
proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out
before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about
the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult
the tire manufacturer for more information.
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