temperature CHEVROLET PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM 1993 User Guide

(5) Install drive belt. See Accessory Drive Belts
this group. (6) Install right front lower fender shield.
(7) Refill Cooling System. See Refilling Cooling
System in this section.
ENGINE THERMOSTATS
The 2.2 and 2.5L engine thermostats are located on
the front of the engine (radiator side) in the water
box which is part of the cylinder head construction
(Fig. 9). Turbo III thermostat is located in the water
box located on the driver side of the cylinder head
(Fig. 10). These thermostats do not have an air bleed notch.
The 3.0L engine thermostat is located in a water
box, formed in the timing belt end of the intake man-
ifold. This thermostat has an air bleed valve, located
in the thermostat flange (Fig. 11). The 3.3/3.8L engine thermostat is located in a wa-
ter box, formed in the drive belt side of the intake
manifold (Fig. 13).
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The engine cooling thermostats are wax pellet
driven, reverse poppet choke type. They are designed
to provide the fastest warm up possible by prevent-
ing leakage through them and to guarantee a mini-
mum engine operating temperature of 88 to 93ÉC
(192 to 199ÉF). They also automatically reach wide
open so they do not restrict flow to the radiator as
temperature of the coolant rises in hot weather to
around 104ÉC (220ÉF). Above this temperature the
coolant temperature is controlled by the radiator,
fan, and ambient temperature, not the thermostat.
OPERATION AND TESTING
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled con-
tainer (pellet) which is sealed so that when heated to
a predetermined temperature. The wax expands
enough to overcome the closing spring and water
pump pressure, which forces the valve to open. Cool-
ant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermostat to
fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermostat
with a screwdriver. The open too soon type failure mode is included in
the onboard diagnosis. The check engine light will
not be lit by an open too soon condition. If it has
failed open, code 17 will be set. Do not change a ther-
mostat for lack of heat by gauge or heater perfor-
mance, unless code 17 is present, see diagnosis for
other probable causes. Failing shut is the normal
long term mode of failure, and normally, only on
high mileage vehicles. The temperature gauge will
indicate this, Refer to diagnosis in this section.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system down to thermostat level
or below. (2) Remove thermostat housing bolts and housing
(Figs. 9, 10, 11 and 13). (3) Remove thermostat, discard gasket and clean
both gasket sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATIONÐ2.2/2.5L AND TURBO III ENGINES
Place a new gasket (dipped in clean water) on wa-
ter box surface, center thermostat in water box on
gasket. Place housing over gasket and thermostat,
making sure thermostat is in the thermostat hous-
ing. Bolt housing to water box (Figs. 9 and 10).
Tighten bolts to 28 N Im (250 in. lbs.). Refill cooling
system (see Refilling System ).
INSTALLATIONÐ3.0L ENGINE
Center thermostat in water box pocket. Check that
the flange is seated correctly in the countersunk por-
tion of the intake manifold water box (Figs. 11 and
12). Install new gasket on water box. Install housing
over gasket and thermostat and tighten bolts to 12
N Im (133 in. lbs. torque).
Fig. 9 Thermostat, Housing, and Water BoxÐ2.2/
2.5L Engine
Fig. 10 Thermostat, Housing, and Water BoxÐTurbo III
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 13

INSTALLATIONÐ3.3L AND 3.8L ENGINE
Place a new gasket (dipped in water) on the water
box surface, center thermostat into opening in the in-
take manifold. Place housing over gasket and ther-
mostat, making sure thermostat is in recess provided
(Fig. 13). Bolt housing to intake manifold, tighten
bolts to 28 N Im (250 in. lbs.). Refill cooling system
(see Refilling System ).
COOLANT
The cooling system is designed around the coolant.
The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in
the cylinder head area near the exhaust valves. Then
carry this heat to the radiator where the tube/fin as-
semblies of these components can give it up to the
air.
PERFORMANCE
Performance is measurable. For heat transfer pure
water excels (Formul a = 1 btu per minute for each
degree of temperature rise for each pound of water).
This formula is altered when necessary additives to
control boiling, freezing, and corrosion are added as
follows:
² Pure Water (1 btu) boils at 100ÉC (212ÉF) and
freezes at 0ÉC (32ÉF).
² 100 Percent Glycol (.7 btu) can cause a hot engine
and detonation and will raise the freeze point to 22ÉC
(-8ÉF).
² 50/50 Glycol and Water (.82 btu) is the recom-
mended combination that provides a freeze point of
-37ÉC(-35ÉF).The radiator, water pump, engine water
jacket, radiator pressure cap, thermostat, tempera-
ture gauge, sending unit and heater are all designed
for 50/50 glycol. Where required, a 56 percent glycol and 44 percent
water mixture will provide a freeze point of-59ÉC
(-50ÉF).
CAUTION: Richer mixtures cannot be measured
with field equipment which can lead to problems
associated with 100 percent glycol.
SELECTION AND ADDITIVES
The use of aluminum cylinder heads, intake mani-
folds, and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. Mopar Antifreeze, Prestone II, Peak or
antifreeze containing Alugard 340-2, or their equiva-
lent are recommended for best engine cooling with-
out corrosion. When mixed only to a freeze point of
Fig. 11 Thermostat, Housing, and Water BoxÐ3.0L Engine
Fig. 12 Thermostat InstalledÐ3.0L Engine
Fig. 13 Thermostat, Housing and WaterboxÐ3.3Land 3.8L Engine
7 - 14 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

-37ÉC (-35ÉF) to -59ÉC (-50ÉF). If it looses color or
becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with
fresh properly mixed solution.
SERVICE
Coolant should be changed at 52,500 miles or three
years, whichever occurs first, then every two years or
30,000 miles.
ROUTINE LEVEL CHECK
Do not remove radiator cap for routine coolant
level inspections. The coolant reserve system provides a quick visual
method for determining the coolant level without re-
moving the radiator cap. Simply observe, with the
engine idling and warmed up to normal operating
temperature, that the level of the coolant in the reserve
tank (Figs. 5 and 6) is between the minimum and
maximum marks.
ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANT
The radiator cap should not be removed. When
additional coolant is needed to maintain this level, it
should be added to the coolant reserve tank. Use only
50/50 concentration of ethylene glycol type antifreeze
and water.
SERVICE COOLANT LEVEL
The cooling system is closed and designed to main-
tain coolant level to the top of the radiator. When servicing requires a coolant level check in the
radiator, the engine must be offand notunder pres-
sure. Drain several ounces of coolant from the radiator
drain cock while observing the Coolant Recovery Sys-
tem (CRS) Tank. Coolant level in the CRS tank should
drop slightly. Then remove the radiator cap. The radia-
tor should be full to the top. If not, and the coolant level
in the CRS tank is at the MIN mark there is a air leak
in the CRS system. Check hose or hose connections to
the CRS tank, radiator filler neck or the pressure cap
seal to the radiator filler neck for leaks.
LOW COOLANT LEVEL AERATION
Low coolant level in a cross flow radiator will equal-
ize in both tanks with engine off. With engine at
running operating temperature the high pressure inlet
tank runs full and the low pressure outlet tank drops.
If this level drops below the top of the transmission oil
cooler, air will be sucked into the water pump:
² Transmission oil will become hotter.
² High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
² Air in the coolant will also cause loss of flow through
the heater.
² Exhaust gas leaks into the coolant can also cause the
same problems.
DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gather-
ing under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it will
be pushed past the pressure cap into the CRS tank by
thermal expansion of the coolant. It then escapes to the
atmosphere in the CRS tank and is replaced with solid
coolant on cool down.
COOLING SYSTEM DRAIN, CLEAN, FLUSH AND
REFILL
Drain, flush, and fill the cooling system at the
mileage or time intervals specified in the Maintenance
Schedule in this Group. If the solution is dirty or rusty
or contains a considerable amount of sediment, clean
and flush with a reliable cooling system cleaner. Care
should be taken in disposing of the used engine coolant
from your vehicle. Check governmental regulations for
disposal of used engine coolant.
DRAINING
To drain cooling system move temperature selector
for heater to full heat with engine running (to provide
vacuum for actuation). Without removing radiator
pressure cap and with system not under pres-
sure, Shut engine off and open draincock. The coolant
reserve tank (Fig. 5) should empty first, then remove
radiator pressure cap. (if not, see Testing Cooling
System for leaks). To vent 2.2/2.5L engines remove the
plug above thermostat housing (Fig. 1). For Turbo III
engines remove coolant temperature sensor in the
thermostat housing (Fig. 2). For 3.3L /3.8L engine
remove the engine temperature sending unit (Fig. 3).
Removal of a plug or other component is required
because the thermostat has no air vent and prevents
air flow through it. This allows the coolant to drain
from the engine block.
Fig. 1 Thermostat Housing Drain/Fill PlugÐ2.2/2.5L Engines
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 15

CLEANING
Drain cooling system (see: Draining Cooling Sys-
tem ) and refill with clean water (see: Refilling
Cooling System ). Run engine with radiator cap in-
stalled until upper radiator hose is hot. Stop engine
and drain water from system. If water is dirty, fill,
run and drain system again until water runs clear.
REVERSE FLUSHING
Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forc-
ing of water through the cooling system, using air
pressure in a direction opposite to that of the normal
flow of water. This is only necessary with dirty sys-
tems and evidence of partial plugging.
RADIATOR Drain cooling system and remove radiator hoses
from engine. Install suitable flushing gun in radiator
lower hose. Fill radiator with clean water and turn
on air in short blasts. CAUTION: Internal radiator pressure must not ex-
ceed 138 kPa (20 psi) as damage to radiator may re-
sult. Continue this procedure until water runs clear.
ENGINE
Drain radiator (see: Draining Cooling System )
and remove hoses from radiator. Remove engine
thermostat and reinstall thermostat housing. Install
suitable flushing gun to thermostat housing hose.
Turn on water, and when engine is filled, turn on
air, but no higher than 138 kPa (20 psi) in short
blasts. Allow engine to fill between blasts of air.
Continue this procedure until water runs clean. In-
stall thermostat using a new housing gasket. Fill
cooling system (See Refilling Cooling System ).
CHEMICAL CLEANING
One type of corrosion encountered with aluminum
cylinder heads is aluminum hydroxide deposits. Cor-
rosion products are carried to the radiator and depos-
ited when cooled off. They appear as dark grey when
wet and white when dry. This corrosion can be re-
moved with a two part cleaner (oxalic acid and neu-
tralizer) available in auto parts outlets. Follow
manufacturers directions for use.
REFILLING
First clean system to remove old glycol, see Cooling
System Cleaning. Fill system using antifreeze described in Coolant
section. Fill 50 percent of capacity with 100 percent
glycol. Then complete filling system with water. The
2.2/2.5L engines require venting by removal of the
plug on top of the water box (Fig. 1). Turbo III en-
gines require venting by removing the coolant tem-
perature sensor on top of the thermostat housing
(Fig. 2). The 3.3/3.8L Engines require removal of the
Engine Temperature Sending Unit on the front of
the cylinder head (Fig. 3). The thermostat in these
engines do not allow air flow through them. When
coolant reaches the vent holes;
² Install vent plug and tighten to 20 N Im (15 ft. lbs.)
for 2.2/2.5L Engines.
² Install Coolant Temperature Sensor and tighten to
27 N Im (20 ft. lbs.) for Turbo III Engine.
² Install Engine Temperature Sending Unit and
tighten to 7 N Im (60 in. lbs.) for 3.3/3.8L Engines.
Continue filling system until full, this provides bet-
ter heater performance. Be careful not to spill
coolant on drive belts or the generator. Fill coolant reserve system to at least the MAX
mark with 50/50 solution. It may be necessary to add
coolant to the reserve tank to maintain coolant level
between the MAX and MIN mark after three or four
warm-up, cool down cycles and trapped air has been
removed.
Fig. 2 Coolant Temperature SensorÐTurbo III Drain/Fill
Fig. 3 Engine Temperature Sending UnitÐ3.3L and 3.8L Drain/Fill
7 - 16 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

RADIATOR DRAINCOCK SERVICE
REMOVAL (1) Turn the drain cock stem counterclockwise to
unscrew the stem. When the stem is unscrewed to
the end of the threads, pull the stem (Fig. 10) from
the radiator tank.
INSTALLATION (1) Push the draincock assembly body into the
tank opening until it snaps into place. (2) Tighten the draincock stem by turning clock-
wise to 2.0-2.7 N Im (18-25 in. lbs.) torque.
RADIATOR COOLANT FLOW CHECK
To determine whether coolant is flowing through
the cooling system, use the following procedure: (1) If engine is cold, idle engine until normal oper-
ating temperature is reached. Then feel the upper ra-
diator hose. If it is hot, coolant is circulating.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE RADIATOR PRES-
SURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Fig. 9 Cooling ModuleÐTypical
Fig. 8 Pressure Testing Radiator Cap
Fig. 10 Draincock AssemblyÐTypical
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 19

(2) Remove radiator pressure cap when engine is
cold, Idle engine until thermostat opens, you should
observe coolant flow while looking down the filler
neck. Once flow is detected install radiator pressure
cap.
RADIATOR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK PLUG OR THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to Draining Cool-
ing System of this section. (3) Remove hose clamps and hoses from the radia-
tor (Fig. 11). Remove coolant reserve system tank to
filler neck tube. (4) Remove automatic transmission hoses, if
equipped. (5) Remove fan and fan support assembly by dis-
connecting fan motor electrical connector. Remove
fan shroud retaining clips, located on the top and
bottom of the shroud for AA, AG, AJ and AP vehi-
cles. AC/AY vehicle retainer clips are located on the
top only. Lift shroud up and out of bottom shroud at-
tachment clips separating shroud from radiator. Fan
damage should always be avoided. (6) Remove upper radiator mounting screws. Dis-
connect the engine block heater wire if equipped. (7) Remove the air conditioning condenser attaching
screws located at the top front of the radiator,if
equipped. Radiator can now be lifted free from engine compart-
ment. Care should be taken not to damage radia-
tor cooling fins or water tubes during removal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide radiator down into position behind radiator
support (yoke). (2) Attach air conditioning condenser to radiator, if
equipped, with a force of approximately 10 lbs. to seat
the radiator assembly lower rubber isolators in the
mount holes provided. (3) Tighten radiator mounting screws to 11.9N Im
(105 in. lbs.). (4) Connect automatic transmission hoses, if
equipped. Tighten hose clamps to 4 N Im (35 in. lbs.).
(5) Slide fan shroud, fan and motor down into clips
on lower radiator flange. Replace shroud retaining
clips. (6) Install upper and lower radiator hoses (including
coolant reserve hose). (7) Connect fan motor electrical connection and con-
nect negative battery cable. (8) Fill cooling system with coolant. Refer to Refill-
ing Cooling Systems. in this group.
(9) Operate engine until it reaches normal operating
temperature. Check cooling system and automatic
transmission for correct fluid levels.
Fig. 11 Cooling ModulesÐAll Models
7 - 20 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

RADIATOR HOSES
The hoses are removed using Constant Tension
Clamp pliers to compress hose clamp. A hardened, cracked, swollen or restricted hose
should be replaced. Do not damage radiator inlet and
outlet when loosening hoses. Radiator hoses should be routed without any kinks
and indexed as designed. The use of molded hoses is
recommended. Spring type hose clamps are used in all applica-
tions. If replacement is necessary replace with the
original style spring type clamp.
FANS
All models use electric motor driven cooling system
fans. The fan modules include a motor support which
may (depending on model) include a shroud. The
module is fastened to the radiator by screws with
U-nuts and retaining clips (Fig. 12). All fan motors are one speed. Attempts to reduce
high temperature gauge reading by increasing en-
gine speed, at the same vehicle speed, can increase
high temperature.
SINGLE FAN
There are no repairs to be made to the fan. If the
fan is warped, cracked, or otherwise damaged, it must be replaced with
onlythe recommended part for
adequate strength, performance and safety (Fig. 13).
DUAL FAN MODULEÐAC/AY BODY
The dual fan module (Fig. 11) is a combination of 2
fans mounted in a one piece shroud which are simul-
taneously activated. The dual fan system improves
engine cooling and air conditioning performance in hot
weather and severe driving conditions, while reducing
fan noise and power consumption.
REMOVAL
Disconnect electric motor lead. Remove fan module
to radiator fasteners and retaining clips. Remove as-
sembly from radiator support. To remove fan from motor shaft, bench support the
motor and motor shaft, while removing the fan retain-
ing clip, so that the shaft and motor will not be
damaged by excessive force. Surface or burr re-
moval may be required to remove fan from motor
shaft. (Fig. 13). Do not permit the fan blades to touch
the bench.
INSTALLATION
Slide the fan on motor shaft. Support motor and
shaft as above while installing fan retaining clip.
Install assembly into pocket on lower radiator tank.
Attach retaining clips and fasteners to radiator tank.
Right side fastener is longer on A/C equipped
vehicles . Connect fan motor lead. For wiring dia-
grams of fan motor systems see Wiring Diagrams
Manual
RADIATOR FAN CONTROLÐALL EXCEPT V-6 ENGINE
Fan control is accomplished two ways. The fan al-
ways runs when the air conditioning compressor
clutch is engaged. In addition to this control, the fan is
turned on by the temperature of the coolant which is
sensed by the coolant temperature sensor which
Fig. 12 Servicing Fan Module
Fig. 13 Radiator Fan Retaining ClipÐTypical
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 21

sends the message to the Engine Controller. The En-
gine Controller turns on the fan through the fan re-
lay. See Wiring Diagrams Manual for circuity and
diagnostics provided.Switching through the Engine Controller provides
fan control for the following conditions.
² The fan will not run during cranking until the en-
gine starts no matter what the coolant temperature
is.
² Fan will run when the air conditioning clutch is
engaged and low pressure cutout switch is closed.
² For 4 cylinder application the fan will run at ve-
hicle speeds above about 40 mph only if coolant tem-
perature reaches 110ÉC (230ÉF). It will turn off when
the temperature drops to 104ÉC (220ÉF). At speeds
below 40 mph the fan switches on at 102ÉC (215ÉF)
and off at 93ÉC (200ÉF).
² This is to help prevent steaming. The fan will run
only below 16ÉC (60ÉF) ambient. Between 38ÉC
(100ÉF) to 97ÉC (195ÉF) coolant temperature, at idle
and then only for three minutes.
RADIATOR FAN CONTROLÐAC/AY BODY V-6 ONLY
For this application, fan control is accomplished
based on coolant temperature, and on A/C head pres-
sure. These vehicles receive the variable displace-
ment compressor. The fan will go on when;
² Coolant temperature reaches 102ÉC (215ÉF) and off
at 93.4ÉC (200ÉF) regardless of vehicle speed.
² When the head pressure reaches 1516.9 kPa (220
psi) and turn off when the pressure reaches 1103 kPa
(160 psi).
TEMPERATURE GAUGE INDICATION
At idle the temperature gauge will rise slowly to
about 5/8 gauge travel. The fan will come on and the
gauge will drop to about 1/2 gauge travel, this is nor-
mal.
ELECTRIC FAN MOTOR
To check out the electric fan motor, disconnect the
fan motor wire connector and connect it with #14
gauge wires to a good 12-volt battery observing cor-
rect polarity per (Fig. 14). If the fan runs normally,
the motor is functioning properly. If not, replace fan
module using the removal and installation instruc-
tions contained in the Fan Section. If the motor is
noticeably overheated (i.e.; wire insulation melted,
motor charred) the system voltage may be too high.
Check charging system, see Group 8A, Battery/Start-
ing/Charging System Diagnostics.
ELECTRIC FAN MOTOR TEST
Equipment required
² Diagnostic Tool DRB II or equivalent
² Volt/Ohm Meter
² Wiring Diagram Manual (1) Run the engine to normal operating tempera-
ture. (2) Check wiring connector in C25, C9, and C26 for
proper engagement, see Wiring Diagram Manual (3) Using a diagnostic tool, plugged into the diag-
nostic connector rearward of the battery, check the
On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) in the Engine Control-
ler for fault codes, see Group 14, Fuel Injection for
instructions. (4) If fault code 88-12-35-55 is detected, proceed to
Step 5. (5) With the ignition switch in the run position,
test for battery voltage (single pin connector) at the
fan relay. Voltage reading OK, proceed to Step 6a.
Voltage at 0-1 volt, proceed to Step 6b. 6(a) With the ignition off, disconnect the 60-way
connector from the Engine Controller (outboard of
battery) and return the ignition to the run position.
Test for battery voltage at cavity 31 of the 60-way
connector (Fig. 15). Voltage reading OK and female
terminal is not damaged, replace the Engine Control-
ler. Voltage reading 0, repair open or short in C27
circuit. (b) With the ignition off, disconnect the 60-way
connector from the Engine Controller (outboard of
battery) and return the ignition to the run position.
Test for battery voltage at the single pin connector
at the fan relay. Voltage reading OK, replace the
Engine Controller. Voltage reading 0-1 volt, pro-
ceed to Step 7.
(7) With ignition in the run position, test for bat-
tery voltage at the wire (C27) in the 3-way connector
of the fan relay. Voltage reading OK, replace the fan
relay. Voltage reading 0, repair open or short in C27
circuit. (8) Turn ignition off, connect the 60-way connector
at the Engine Controller and test the system.
Fig. 14 Electric Fan MotorÐTypical
7 - 22 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
On all models an engine block heater is available as
an optional accessory. The heater, operated by ordinary
house current (110 Volt A.C.) through a power cord and
connector behind the radiator grille, provides easier
engine starting and faster warm-up when vehicle is
operated in areas having extremely low temperatures.
The heater is mounted in a core hole (in place of a core
hole plug) in the engine block, with the heating ele-
ment immersed in coolant (Fig. 9). The power cord must be secured in its retainer
clips, and not positioned so it could contact link-
ages or exhaust manifolds and become damaged. If unit does not operate, trouble can be in either the
power cord or the heater element. Test power cord for
continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or 110-volt test
light; test heater element continuity with an ohmmeter
or 12-volt test light.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block.
Refer to Cooling System Drain, Clean, Flush and Re-
fill of this section for procedure. (2) Detach power cord plug from heater.
(3) Loosen screw in center of heater. Remove
heater assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean core hole and heater seat.
(2) Insert heater assembly with element loop posi-
tioned upward.
(3) With heater seated, tighten center screw se-
curely to assure a positive seal. (4) Fill cooling system with coolant to the proper
level, vent air, and inspect for leaks. Pressurize sys-
tem with Radiator Pressure Tool before looking for
leaks.
Fig. 9 Engine Block Heater
7 - 28 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

This voltage reading will show the battery state of
charge. It will not reveal battery cranking capacity
(Fig. 8).
BATTERY LOAD TEST
A fully charged battery must have reserve crank-
ing capacity. This will enable the starter motor and
ignition system enough power to start the engine
over a broad range of ambient temperatures. A bat-
tery load test will verify the actual cranking perfor-
mance based on the cold crank rating of the battery.
WARNING: IF BATTERY SHOWS SIGNS OF FREEZ-
ING, LEAKING, LOOSE POSTS, OR EXCESSIVELY
LOW ELECTROLYTE LEVEL, DO NOT TEST. ACID
BURNS OR AN EXPLOSIVE CONDITION MAY RE-
SULT. (1) Remove both battery cables, negative first. Bat-
tery top, cables and posts should be clean. If green
dot is not visible in indicator, charge the battery. Re-
fer to Battery Charging Procedures. (2) Use a suitable Volt Ammeter Load tester (Fig.
10) connected to the battery posts (Fig. 11). Check
the open circuit voltage of the battery. Voltage should be equal to or greater than 12.4
volts with the green dot visible in test indicator. (3) Rotate the load control knob Carbon pile rheo-
stat to apply a 300 amp load. Apply this load for 15 seconds to remove the surface charge from the bat-
tery, and return the control knob to off (Fig. 12).
(4) Allow the battery to stabilize for 15 seconds,
and then verify open circuit voltage. (5) Rotate the load control knob on the tester to
maintain 50 percent of the battery cold crank rating
for a minimum 15 seconds (Fig. 13).
Fig. 8 Testing Open Circuit Voltage
Fig. 9 Battery Open Circuit Voltage
Fig. 10 Volt-Ammeter-Load Tester
Fig. 11 Volt-Ammeter-Load Tester Connections
Fig. 12 Remove Surface Charge from Battery
8A - 6 BATTERY/STARTING/CHARGING SYSTEMS DIAGNOSTICS Ä