towing CHEVROLET S10 1995 2.G Owner's Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1995, Model line: S10, Model: CHEVROLET S10 1995 2.GPages: 354, PDF Size: 18.92 MB
Page 189 of 354

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a
while.
11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few
tries make sure all connections are good.
If it still won’t start, it
probably needs service.
12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent electrical shorting. Take
care that they don’t touch each other or
any other metal.
Remove Cables In This Order:
2 3 1. Heavy Metal
Engine Part
2. Good Battery (-)
3. Good Battery (+)
4. Dead Batten (+)
Towing Your Vehicle
Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle.
They can provide the right equipment and know how to tow it without
damage.
If your vehicle has been changed since it was factory-new
by adding things
like fog lamps, aero skirting,
or special tires and wheels, these things could
be damaged during towing.
Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers.
When you call, tell the towing service:
0 Whether your vehicle has rear-wheel drive or four-wheel drive.
The make, model, and year of your vehicle.
0 Whether you can move the shift lever for the transmission and shift the
transfer case, if you have one.
0 If there was an accident, what was damaged.
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Page 190 of 354

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine When your vehicle is being towed, have the key off. The steering wheel
should be clamped in a straight-ahead position with
a clamping device
designed for towing service.
Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock
for this. The transmission (either automatic or manual) should be
in
NEUTRAL (N) and the transfer case (either manual shift or electronic
shift), if you have one, should be in 2HI.
The parking brake should be
released.
Don’t have your vehicle towed
on the rear wheels, unless you have to. If the
vehicle must be towed on the rear wheels, don’t
go more than 35 mph (56
kmk) or farther than 50 miles (80 km) or your transmission will be
damaged.
If these limits must be exceeded, then the rear drive wheels have
to be supported on a dolly.
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Page 191 of 354

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Towing From the Front
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Page 192 of 354

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine NOTICE:
Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the front bumper
system will be damaged.
Use wheel lift or car-carrier equipment.
Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment.
Use safety chains and wheel straps.
If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option, a dolly MUST
be used under the rear wheels when towing from the front.
Towing From the Rear
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Page 193 of 354

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine I
NOTICE:
Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the rear bumper
system will be damaged.
Use wheel lift or car-carrier equipment.
Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment.
Use safety chains and wheel straps.
If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option, a dolly MUST
be used under the front wheels when towing from the rear.
Engine Overheating
You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle's instrument
panel.
If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
Page 201 of 354

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy
and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or
high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when
the clutch engages.
So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be
mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the
cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when
additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the fan clutch disengages.
if a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of
a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what to expect and
what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire
will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may
require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove
your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and
noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if
possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to
change a flat tire safely.
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Page 206 of 354

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine To Remove the Underbody-Mounted Spare Tire
I NOTICE:
Never remove or restow a tire frodto a stowage position under
the vehicle while the vehicle is supported by a jack. Always
tighten the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle wh\
en restowing.
Insert the chisel end of
the wheel wrench, on
an angle, into the hole
in the rear bumper. Be
sure the chisel end
of
the wheel wrench
connects into the hoist
shaft.
... spare tire can be
pulled out from under
the vehicle.
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Page 216 of 354

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well\
as
the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting you\
r
transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. \
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains”
in the Index.
Rocking your vehicle to get it out:
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around
your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a
forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST
(1) or
SECOND
(2) gear and REVERSE), spinning the wheels as little as possible.
Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly
on the
accelerator pedal when the transmission
is in gear. If that doesn’t get you
out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your
recovery hooks, if your vehicle has them.
If you do need to be towed out,
see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.
Using the Recovery Hooks
Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are
provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them
if you’re
stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue
driving.
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Page 219 of 354

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the
date
of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the
Index.
NOTICE:
If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough
about it, your vehicle could be damaged.
Fuel
The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code
letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left
of your
instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number”
in the Index.)
Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. With the
4.3L
(Code W) engine, use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 9 1 octane or
higher for high power performance, when towing
a trailer or with a high
payload requirement. But when operating with a light load
as a normal
condition, you may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines.
The gasoline you use should meet specifications
ASTM D48 14 in the
United States and CGSB
3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the
proper additives,
so you should not have to add anything to the fuel.
In the United States and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind
of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see UNLEADED right on the pump. And
only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck.
Be sure the posted octane
is at least 91 for premium, 89 for middle grade
and 87 for regular. If the octane
is less than 87, you may get a heavy
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Page 293 of 354

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
Spark Plug Wire Inspection
Engine Accessory Drive Belt Inspection
Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines Inspection
Engine Timing Check
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km)
Spark Plug Replacement (2.2L Code 4 engine only)
I Maintenance Schedule I I
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles (166 000 km)
should be performed after
100,000 miles ( 166 000 km) at the same intervals.
Footnotes
3- The California Air Resources Board has determined that the failure to
perform this maintenance item will
not nullify the emission warranty or
limit recall liability prior to the completion of vehicle useful life. We,
however, urge that all recommended maintenance services be perfo\
rmed at
the indicated intervals and the maintenance be recorded.
** Drive axle service:
0 Locking Differential - Drain fluid and refill at first engine oil change.
At subsequent oil changes, check fluid level and add fluid as needed. If
driving
in dusty areas or towing a trailer, drain fluid and refill every
15,000 miles
(25 000 km).
Standard Differential - Check fluid level and add fluid as needed at
every oil change. If driving in dusty areas or towing a trailer, drain
fluid and refill every
15,000 miles (25 000 km).
More frequent lubrication may be required for heavy-duty or off-road
use.
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