steering CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1999 1.G Owner's Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1999, Model line: SILVERADO, Model: CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1999 1.GPages: 432, PDF Size: 3.06 MB
Page 219 of 432

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4-29
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it's very easy to lose control. On wet
ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will
have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving,
poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide
out of control.
CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and
your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle
on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems.
But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood
waters demand extreme caution.Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it's deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or
exhaust pipe, don't try it
-- you probably won't get
through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle
and other vehicle parts.
If the water isn't too deep, then drive through it slowly.
At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your
tailpipe is under water, you'll never be able to start your
engine. When you go through water, remember that when
your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.
CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it's
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Don't drive
through rushing water.
See ªDriving Through Waterº in the Index for more
information on driving through water.
Page 220 of 432

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4-30 After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system
for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling
system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off
-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One
reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired
-- by
alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
Page 231 of 432

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4-41
What's the worst time for this? ªWet ice.º Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it's about
freezing (32F; 0C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.Whatever the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti
-lock brakes improve your vehicle's stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have an anti
-lock braking system, you'll
want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. See ªAnti
-Lockº in the Index.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that's covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can't reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may
remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If
you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you
are on it. Try not to brake while you're actually on
the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
Page 235 of 432

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4-45 Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case into NEUTRAL (N) can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission
is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission, or
if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual
transmission. You or others could be injured.
Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before
you shift the transfer case into NEUTRAL (N).
Use the following procedure to correctly tow your
vehicle on all four wheels:
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
2. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK (P),
or a manual transmission to FIRST (1).
3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the
tow vehicle.
4. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See
ªFour
-Wheel Driveº in the Index for the proper
procedure to select the neutral position for
your vehicle.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.
6. Turn the ignition to OFF. The OFF position unlocks
the steering column and reduces battery drain as long
as the IGN 0 fuse is removed. Unlocking the steering
column will allow the proper movement of the front
wheels and tires during towing.
Page 251 of 432

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4-61 Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods
of sunshine, the floor of the truck bed may become very
warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed that might be
affected by high ambient temperatures.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
You'll need more passing distance up ahead when
you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good deal
longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
Page 262 of 432

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5-2
Hazard Warning Flashers
Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They
also let police know you have a problem. Your front and
rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.
But they won't flash if you're braking.
Press the button at the top
of the steering column all
the way down to make your
front and rear turn signal
lamps flash on and off.
Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what
position your key is in, and even if the key isn't in.
To turn off the flashers, press the button until the first
click and release.
When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn
signals won't work.
Page 278 of 432

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5-18
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch
partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
Page 293 of 432

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5-33
If You're Stuck: In Sand, Mud,
Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you don't want to spin your
wheels too fast. The method known as ªrockingº can
help you get out when you're stuck, but you must
use caution.
CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured. And,
the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can
overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment fire or other damage. When you're
stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don't
spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown
on the speedometer.
NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your
vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels
too fast while shifting your transmission back
and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see ªTire Chainsº in the Index.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear
the area around your front wheels. If you have a four
-wheel
drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. Then shift back and forth
between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a
manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2)
and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible.
Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press
lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in
gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and
reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may
free your vehicle. If that doesn't get you out after a few tries,
you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery
hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed
out, see ªTowing Your Vehicleº in the Index.
Page 299 of 432

6-
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6-1
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6
-2 Service
6
-3 Fuel (Gasoline Engine)
6
-5 Fuels in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines)
6
-6 Filling Your Tank (Gasoline Engine)
6
-8 Checking Things Under the Hood
6
-12 Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)
6
-16 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
6
-19 Automatic Transmission Fluid
6
-22 Manual Transmission Fluid
6
-24 Hydraulic Clutch
6
-25 Rear Axle
6
-25 Four-Wheel Drive
6
-28 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap
(Gasoline Engine)
6
-28 Thermostat
6
-29 Engine Coolant
6
-32 Power Steering Fluid6
-33 Windshield Washer Fluid
6
-34 Brakes
6
-37 Battery
6
-38 Bulb Replacement
6
-44 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
6
-45 Tires
6
-54 Appearance Care
6
-54 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
6
-58 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
6
-62 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
6
-63 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
6
-64 Electrical System
6
-73 Replacement Bulbs
6
-74 Capacities and Specifications
6
-76 Air Conditioning Refrigerants
6
-77 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
Page 308 of 432

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6-10
VORTEC 4300 V6 Engine
When you lift up the hood you'll see:
A. Air Cleaner
B. Coolant Surge Tank
C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator
D. Engine Oil Dipstick
E. Automatic Transmission
Dipstick (If Equipped)F. Fan
G. Engine Oil Fill
H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
I. Remote Negative Terminal (GND)
J. Remote Positive Terminal
K. Brake Fluid ReservoirL. Clutch Fluid Reservoir
(If Equipped)
M. Underhood Electrical Center
N. Battery
O. Windshield Washer Fluid
Reservoir