trailer CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1994 User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1994, Model line: SUBURBAN, Model: CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1994Pages: 385, PDF Size: 19.88 MB
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Three important considerations have to do with weight:
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how
you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude,
road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a trailer are all important. And,
it can also depend on any special equipment
that you have on your vehicle.
You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can
write
us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance
Information Booklet.
In Canada, write to General Motors of Canada Limited, Customer
Assistance Center,
1908 Colonel Sam Drive, Oshawa, Ontario L I H 8P7.
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure
because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The gross vehicle
weight
(GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may
carry
in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will
tow
a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your
vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the
Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
A B
If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh
10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a “weight-distributing”
hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh
12% of the total loaded trailer
weight (B).
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After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue,
separately, to
see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to
get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find
these numbers
on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door
or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the
GVW limit for your vehicle.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucKs
going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Here are some rules
to follow:
If you use a step bumper hitch, and your trailer tongue has a V-shaped
foot, your bumper could be damaged
in sharp turns. Check the distance
from the front edge of
the foot to the middle of the hitch ball socket. If
the distance is less than 12 inches, take the foot off the trailer tongue.
If you’ll be pulling a trailer with a utility model that, when loaded, will
weigh more than
3,000 pounds (1 361 kg); or with a wagon model that,
when loaded, will weigh more than
4000 pounds (1 800 kg), be sure to
use
a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of
the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle
loading and good handling when you’re driving.
0 Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you
install a trailer hitch? If
you do, then be sure to seal the holes later
when
you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon
monoxide
(CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see
“Carbon Monoxide”
in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer.
Cross the safety chains under
the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will
not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided by
the hitch manufacturer or by the
trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for
attaching safety chains. Always leave
just enough slack so you can turn with
your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
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Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs
its own brakes
- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system,
but consider the following:
Will the trailer brake system use more than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of
fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder? If it will, don’t tap into your
vehicle’s brake system. Both braking systems
won’t work well, and you
could even lose your brakes altogether.
not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle.
If everything checks
out this far, make the brake tap at the port on the
master cylinder that sends the fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper
tubing for this. if you do, it will bend and finally break
off. Use steel brake
tubing.
Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out
for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel
of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep
in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good
deal longer and not nearly so responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before
you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety chains,
electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the
trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets
you check your electrical connection at the same time.
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During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and
that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when
driving your
vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that
require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer.
And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need
to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle
before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the
trailer to
the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the
right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and,
if possible,
have someone guide you.
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Making Turns
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this
so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well
in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal
flasher and extra wiring, The green arrows on your instrument panel will
flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer,
the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash
for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important
to check occasionally
to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or
steep downgrade. If
you don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes
so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On
a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph
(70 kdh) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
If you have an automatic transmission, you should use “D” (or, as you need
to, a lower gear) when towing
a trailer. Operating your vehicle in “D” when
towing a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend
the life of your
transmission.
If
you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better
not
to use fifth gear. Just drive in fourth gear (or, as you need to, a lower
gear).
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If
something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured,
and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But
if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into “P’ (Park) yet, or in gear
for a manual transmission.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the
chocks absorb
the load.
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4. Re-apply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then
shift to
“P” (Park), or “R’ (Reverse) for a manual transmission.
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a
6. Release the regular brakes. drive
gear-not in “N” (Neutral).
When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See
the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system, and brake
adjustment. Each
of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help
you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see
that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
Trailer Light Wiring
See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may
not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute
or
so:
1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to “N’ (Neutral).
window
as necessary.
If you
no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe,
drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on,
you can drive normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there’s still
no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is
about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to
normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see
if the warning stops.
But then, if
you still have the warning, TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND
GET EVERYONE OUT OF THE VEHICLE until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
Cooling System -Gas Engines
When you decide it’s
safe to lift the hood,
here’s what you’ll see:
A. Coolant recovery
“I tank
B. Engine fan(s)
C. Radiator pressure
cap
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Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool
the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the fan
is spinning slower and clutch is not fully engaged.
This improves
fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages.
So you may hear an increase in
fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts.
It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The
fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required
and the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever have
a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what to expect and what
to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may
require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove
your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and
noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if
possible.
If a
tire goes flat, the next section shows how to use your jacking equipment
to change a flat tire safely.
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Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you
think something should be added.
When to Change Engine Oil
See if any one of these is true for you:
Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km).
0 It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less than 10 miles (16 km).
The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in door-to-door
You tow a trailer often.
delivery,
or in stop-and-go traffic).
Most trips are through dusty places.
The vehicle is frequently operated off-road.
If any one
of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil
andfifilter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes
first
.
Light Duty Emissions:
If none of them is true, change the oil every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or
12 months - whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change
and at every other oil change after that.
Heavy Duty Emissions:
If none of them is true, change the oil every 6,000 miles ( 10 000 km) or
12 months - whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change
and at every other oil change after that if mileage determines when you
change your oil.
If time determines when you change your oil, change the
filter each time you change your
oil.
Engine Coolant Heater (Engine Block Heater)
An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in
very cold weather,
0°F (-1 8 “C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option,
see “Engine Coolant Heater
” in the Index.
What to Do with Used Oil
Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be
unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay
on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water,
or
a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags
containing
used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use
and disposal of oil products.)
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