brakes CHEVROLET TRACKER 1998 1.G Owner's Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1998, Model line: TRACKER, Model: CHEVROLET TRACKER 1998 1.GPages: 386, PDF Size: 21.17 MB
Page 183 of 386

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can
make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See “Off-Road Driving” in the Index for information
about driving off-road.)
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and
transmission. These parts can work hard on
mountain roads.
0 Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing
to know is this: let your engine do some of the
slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go
down a steep or long hill.
If you don’t shift down, your brakes could
get
so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none going
down
a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let
your engine assist your brakes on a steep
downhill slope. Coasting downhill
in
NEUTRAL (N) or with
the ignition
off is dangerous. Your brakes will
have to do all the work of slowing down. They
could get
so hot that they wouldn’t work well.
You would then have
poor braking or even none
going down a hill. You could crash. Always have
your engine running and your vehicle in gear
when
you go downhill.
L
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down
to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the
hill better.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let
you stay in your own lane.
0 As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be
something in your lane, like a stalled car
or an accident.
You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of
special problems. Examples
are long grades, passing or
no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding
roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.
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Page 185 of 386

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Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If
you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll
want
to brake very gently, too. (If you do have anti-lock,
see “Anti-Lock‘’ in the Index. This system improves
your vehicle’s stability when you make
a hard stop on a
slippery road.) Whether you have the anti-lock braking
system
or not, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than
you would on dry pavement. Without anti-lock brakes,
if you feel your vehicle begin
to slide, let up on the
brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can.
What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about
freezing
(32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
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Page 193 of 386

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Towing a Trailer
If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive
properly, you can lose control when you pull a
trailer. For example,
if the trailer is too heavy, the
brakes may not work well
-- or even at all. You
and your passengers could be seriously injured.
Pull a trailer only
if you have followed all the
steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice
and
information about towing a trailer with
your vehicle.
NOTICE:
Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your
vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered
by
your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow
the advice in this part, and see your dealer for
important information about towing a trailer
with your vehicle. Your
vehicle can tow a trailer. To identify what the
vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you
should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer’,
that appears later in this section. But trailering is
different than just driving your vehicle by itself.
Trailering means changes in handling, durability and
fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct
equipment, and it has to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this section. In it
are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that of
your passengers.
So please read this section carefully
before you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components sucn as me engine,
transmission, wheel assemblies and tires
are forced to
work harder against the drag
of the added weight. The
engine
is required to operate at relatively higher speeds
and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s
more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance,
increasing the pulling requirements.
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Page 197 of 386

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Trailer Brakes Driving with a Trailer
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 Ibs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes
-- and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for
the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
0 Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the
trailer’s brake system will use more than
0.02 cubic
inch
(0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master
cylinder. If
it does, both systems won’t work well.
You could even lose your brakes.
(20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not, the trailer brake
system must not be used with your vehicle.
Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake
fluid tap at the
port on the master cylinder that sends
fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing
for this.
If you do, it will bend and finally break off.
Use steel brake tubing. Towing a trailer requires a certain amount
of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive
as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment.
If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets
you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
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Page 199 of 386

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine lbrn Signals When Towing a nailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring (included in the optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal a
turn or lane change. Properly
hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other
drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for
turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you
are seeing your signal when they
are not. It’s important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade.
If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes
so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your
speed to around
45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the
possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
If
you are towing a trailer and you have a manual
transmission with
FIFTH (5) gear, you may prefer not to
use FIFTH
(5). Just drive in FOURTH (4) (or, as you
need to, a lower gear).
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Page 200 of 386

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer
attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig
could start to move. People can be injured, and both
your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your
rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK
(P) yet, or into gear for a manual
transmission.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake, and then shift to
PARK (P), or REVERSE (R)
for
a manual transmission.
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure
the transfer case is in a drive gear
-- not in
NEUTRAL (N).
-
I_
A CAUl =ON:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if
the shift lever is not fully in
PARK (P) with the
parking brake firmly
set. Your vehicle can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle
can move suddenly. You or others could be
injured.
To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even
when you’re
on fairly level ground, use the steps
that follow.
If you have four-wheel drive and your transfer
case is in
NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free
to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So,
be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not
in
NEUTRAL (N).
6. Release the regular brakes.
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Page 201 of 386

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking
on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
0 Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system
and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
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Page 238 of 386

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 0 Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical i\
nformation about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6-2
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6- 8 6-11
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6-29
6-33
6-34 Service
Fuel
Fuels in Foreign Countries
Filling Your Tank
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
Checking Things Under the Hood
Engine Oil
Air Cleaner
Automatic Transmission Fluid
Manual Transmission Fluid
Engine Coolant
Radiator Pressure Cap
Thermostat
Power Steering Fluid
Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes
Battery
Bulb Replacement 6-40
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1
6-63 Tires
Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
Cleaning the Outside
of the Windshield,
Backglass and Wiper Blades
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
Special Care for Canvas Top and
Plastic Windows
Cleaning Aluminum Wheels
(If Equipped)
Cleaning Tires
Finish Damage
Underbody Maintenance
Appearance Care Materials Chart
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
Electrical System Replacement Bulbs
Capacities and Specifications
Air Conditioning Refrigerants
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine NOTICE:
0
0
0
0
When using concentrated washer fluid,
follow the manufacturer’s instructions for
adding water.
Don’t mix water with ready-to-use wasner
fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and
other parts of the washer system. Also,
water doesn’t clean
as well as washer fluid.
Fill your washer fluid tank only
three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This
allows for expansion
if freezing occurs,
which could damage the tank if it is
completely
full.
Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in
your windshield washer. It can damage
your washer system and paint.
Brakes
Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled
with DOT-3 brake fluid.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid
level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that
the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level
during normal brake lining wear. When new linings
are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other
reason
is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system.
Page 267 of 386

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a Checking Brake Fluid
leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work
well, or won’t work at all.
So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid.
Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak.
If you add fluid
when your linings
are worn, then you’ll have too much
fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add
(or remove) brake fluid, as necessary,
only when work
is done on the brake hydraulic system.
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on
the engine. The fluid will burn
if the engine is
hot enough. You or others could be burned,
and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake
fluid only when work is done on the brake
hydraulic system.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to
check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance
Inspections” in the Index.
You can check the brake
fluid without taking
off
the cap.
Just look at the brake
fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN.
If it isn’t, have your brake
system checked to see
if
there is a leak.
After work is done
on the brake hydraulic system,
make sure the level is above the MIN but not over
the
MAX mark or the top of the window on the side
of the reservoir.
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