steering CHEVROLET TRAIL BLAZER 2009 1.G Owner's Guide

Attach a ag to the vehicle to be more visible to
approaching traffic on trails or hills.
Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill
to let opposing traffic know you are there.
Use headlamps even during the day to make the
vehicle more visible to oncoming traffic.
{CAUTION:
Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can
cause an accident. There could be a drop-off,
embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You
could be seriously injured or killed. As you near
the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.If the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and you cannot
make it up the hill:
Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep
it from rolling backwards and apply the parking
brake.
If the engine is still running, shift the transmission
to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill in R (Reverse).
If the engine has stopped running, you need to
restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the
parking brake still applied, shift the transmission
to P (Park) and restart the engine. Then, shift
to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill as straight as possible
in R (Reverse).
While backing down the hill, put your left hand on the
steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position so you can
tell if the wheels are straight and can maneuver as
you back down. It is best to back down the hill with
the wheels straight rather than in the left or right
direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or
right will increase the possibility of a rollover.
4-21

Stalling on an Incline
{CAUTION:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle
stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the
vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed.
Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the
vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.
If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure you,
and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the
door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill
side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in
its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do not
get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick, turning is
more difficult, and braking distances are longer.
It is best to use a low gear when in mud — the deeper
the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
keep the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck.When driving on sand, wheel traction changes.
On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand
dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This
affects steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a
reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt
maneuvers.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that
you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle
does get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can
cause it to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your
passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on
safe surfaces only.
4-25

Driving in Water
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it is
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive
through rushing water.
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before driving through it.
Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs,
axles, or exhaust pipe — you probably will not get
through. Deep water can damage the axle and other
vehicle parts.If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and
the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the
tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under water, you will
never be able to start the engine. When going through
water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it might
take longer to stop. SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet
Roads on page 4-27.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on
the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system
for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system
for any leakage.
The vehicle requires more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
4-26

Winter Driving
Driving on Snow or Ice
Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the
tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice
can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain begins
to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet
ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt
or sand.
Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate
gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly
causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under
the tires slick, so there is even less traction.
Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.
TheAntilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-5improves
vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads, but
apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road
and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on
otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface
of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering
maneuvers and braking while on ice.
Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.
Blizzard Conditions
Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay
with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible,
use theRoadside Assistance Program on page 7-7.
To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:
Turn on theHazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6.
Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle.
This may cause exhaust gases to get inside.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:
Clear away snow from around the base of
your vehicle, especially any that is blocking
the exhaust pipe.
Check again from time to time to be sure
snow does not collect there.
CAUTION: (Continued)
4-30

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-32.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system
in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system
to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use
the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed,
they can explode, and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment re or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and avoid going above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-81.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area
around the front wheels. For four-wheel-drive vehicles,
shift into Four-Wheel High. For vehicles with StabiliTrak
®,
turn the traction control part of the system off. Shift back
and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear,
spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent
transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning
before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while
shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when
the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in
the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking
motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the
vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out.
Recovery hooks can be used, if the vehicle has them.
If the vehicle does need to be towed out, seeTowing
Your Vehicle on page 4-40.
Recovery Hooks
{CAUTION:
These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force.
Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on
the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could
break off and you or others could be injured from
the chain or cable snapping back.
4-32

{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case
into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even
if the transmission is in P (Park). The driver or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is rmly set before the transfer case is
shifted to N (Neutral).
5. Shift the transfer case to Neutral. See “Shifting into
Neutral” underFour-Wheel Drive on page 2-30.
6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing vehicle.
7. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF and remove the
key — the steering wheel will still turn.
After towing, see “Shifting Out of Neutral” under
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-30.
Dolly Towing
Front Towing (Front Wheels Off the
Ground)
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Notice:If a two-wheel-drive vehicle is towed with
the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by the vehicle warranty. Never tow the
vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground.
4-43

Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on the instrument panel ash whenever
signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lamps also ash, telling other drivers the vehicle is
turning, changing lanes or stopping.When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel
ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned
out. For this reason you may think other drivers are
seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to
check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforestarting
down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is
not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
Vehicles can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission to
a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under
heavy loads and/or hilly conditions.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If the engine is
turned off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, the vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let
the engine run while parked, preferably on level ground,
with the transmission in P (Park) for a few minutes
before turning the engine off. If the overheat warning
comes on, seeEngine Overheating on page 5-35.
4-56

Service............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modications..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning.....................5-4
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements.....5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
the Vehicle.................................................5-5
Fuel................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane............................................5-6
Gasoline Specications....................................5-6
California Fuel...............................................5-6
Additives.......................................................5-7
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-7
Filling the Tank..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-10
Hood Release..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-18
Engine Oil Life System..................................5-22
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-24
Automatic Transmission Fluid.........................5-25
Cooling System............................................5-28
Engine Coolant.............................................5-29
Radiator Pressure Cap..................................5-34
Engine Overheating.......................................5-35Engine Fan Noise.........................................5-36
Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-37
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-38
Brakes........................................................5-39
Battery........................................................5-42
Jump Starting...............................................5-43
All-Wheel Drive..............................................5-48
Rear Axle.......................................................5-49
Four-Wheel Drive
............................................5-50
Front Axle......................................................5-51
Headlamp Aiming...........................................5-52
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-52
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-52
Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps...................5-53
License Plate Lamp......................................5-54
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-54
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-55
Tires..............................................................5-58
Winter Tires.................................................5-59
Tire Sidewall Labeling...................................5-60
Tire Terminology and Denitions.....................5-62
Ination - Tire Pressure.................................5-65
High-Speed Operation...................................5-66
Tire Pressure Monitor System.........................5-67
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-1

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-24.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System
on page 5-28.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-38.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-37.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (Out of View).
See “Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-25.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-18.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-34.
H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-18.
I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 5-43.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-39.
K. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-42.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-119.
5-13

A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System
on page 5-28.
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-24.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-38.
D. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-18.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick.
See “Checking the Fluid Level” under
Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-25.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-18.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-34.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 5-43.
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-37.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-39.
K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-119.
L. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-42.
5-15