check oil CHRYSLER CARAVAN 2002 Manual PDF
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHRYSLER, Model Year: 2002, Model line: CARAVAN, Model: CHRYSLER CARAVAN 2002Pages: 2399, PDF Size: 57.96 MB
Page 1283 of 2399
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check system and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 25 -
EMISSIONS CONTROL/
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS/PCV
VALVE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots. 3. Install new rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves. 4. Remove rings and check
grooves. If groove is not proper
width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s). 5. Replace cylinder head assembly.
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or
damaged.6. Replace seal(s).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
9 - 82 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
Page 1284 of 2399
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adap-
tors to the DRBIIIt. For Special Tool identification,
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylin-
der pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-83
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
Page 1285 of 2399
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum, with 552 kPa (80 psi) rec-
ommended.
Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage per cylinder.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING
BEARING CLEARANCE USING PLASTIGAGE
Engine crankshaft bearing clearances can be deter-
mined by use of Plastigage or equivalent. The follow-
ing is the recommended procedure for the use of
Plastigage:
(1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(2) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the cap approximately
6.35 mm (1/4 in.) off center and away from the oil
holes (Fig. 3). (In addition, suspected areas can be
checked by placing the Plastigage in the suspected
area). Torque the bearing cap bolts of the bearing
being checked to the proper specifications.(3) Remove the bearing cap and compare the
width of the flattened Plastigage with the metric
scale provided on the package. Locate the band clos-
est to the same width. This band shows the amount
of clearance in thousandths of a millimeter. Differ-
ences in readings between the ends indicate the
amount of taper present. Record all readings taken.
Compare clearance measurements to specs found in
engine specifications (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECI-
FICATIONS).Plastigage generally is accompa-
nied by two scales. One scale is in inches, the
other is a metric scale.
NOTE: Plastigage is available in a variety of clear-
ance ranges. Use the most appropriate range for
the specifications you are checking.
(4) Install the proper crankshaft bearings to
achieve the specified bearing clearances.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN IIis used to seal
components exposed to engine oil. This material is a
specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTVis a specifically designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and
sealing properties to seal components exposed to
automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
Fig. 3 Plastigage Placed in Lower ShellÐTypical
1 - PLASTIGAGE
9 - 84 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
Page 1287 of 2399
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HYDROSTATIC
LOCKED ENGINE
When an engine is suspected to be hydrostatically
locked, regardless of what caused the problem, the
following steps should be used.
CAUTION: DO NOT use starter motor to rotate the
engine, severe damage may occur.
(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil
into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cyl-
inder walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Install a new oil filter.
(11) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR OF
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (excluding spark plug
and camshaft bearing cap attaching threads) can be
repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of drilling
out worn or damaged threads, tapping the hole with
a special Heli-Coil Tap, (or equivalent) and installing
an insert into the tapped hole. This brings the hole
back to its original thread size.CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 5).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
Fig. 5 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
9 - 86 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
Page 1302 of 2399
(4) Remove the cylinder head covers. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(5) Remove the spark plugs from cylinder head.
(6) Remove the dipstick and tube (Fig. 18).
(7) Remove exhaust manifold(s). (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/EXHAUST MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL)
(8) Remove rocker arm and shaft assemblies.(Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARMS -
REMOVAL) Remove push rods andmark positions
to ensure installation in original locations.
(9) Remove the eight head bolts from each cylinder
head and remove cylinder heads (Fig. 22).
CLEANING
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
Remove all gasket material from cylinder head and
block (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE). Be careful not to gouge or scratch the alumi-
num head sealing surface.
Clean all engine oil passages.
INSPECTION
(1) Before cleaning, check for leaks, damage and
cracks.
(2) Clean cylinder head and oil passages.
(3) Check cylinder head for flatness (Fig. 19).
(4) Cylinder head must be flat within:
²Standard dimension = less than 0.05 mm (0.002
inch.)
²Service Limit = 0.2 mm (0.008 inch.)
²Grinding Limit = Maximum of 0.2 mm (0.008
inch.) is permitted.
Fig. 17 Cylinder Head and Components
1 - VALVE LOCKS 5 - SPRING SEATS
2 - RETAINERS 6 - CYLINDER HEAD
3 - VALVE SPRINGS 7 - VALVE - EXHAUST
4 - VALVE STEM SEALS 8 - VALVE - INTAKE
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 101
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
Page 1314 of 2399
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the valve springs. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/VALVE SPRINGS -
REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the valve stem seal (Fig. 44).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the valve stem seal squarely over the
valve guide, using the valve stem as a guide (Fig.
44). Do not force the seal against top of the valve
guide.
(2) Install the valve spring. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/VALVE SPRINGS - INSTALLA-
TION)
ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron and is a
deep skirt design.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
(1) Used carefully, the cylinder bore resizing hone,
recommended tool C-823 or equivalent, equipped
with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this honing
procedure. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring or scratches. Usually a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done
using a cylinder surfacing hone, recommended tool
C-3501 or equivalent, equipped with 280 grit stones,
if the cylinder bore is straight and round. 20±60
strokes depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Use a light
honing oil.Do not use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits or kerosene.Inspect cylinder walls
after each 20 strokes.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a cross-hatch pattern.
When hone marksintersectat 40-60 degrees, the
cross hatch angle is most satisfactory for proper seat-
ing of rings (Fig. 45).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between
200±300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40±60
degree angle. Faster up and down strokes increase
the cross-hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasive.CAUTION: Ensure all abrasives are removed from
engine parts after honing. It is recommended that a
solution of soap and hot water be used with a
brush and the parts then thoroughly dried. The bore
can be considered clean when it can be wiped
clean with a white cloth and cloth remains clean.
Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Clean cylinder block thoroughly using a suitable
cleaning solvent.
INSPECTION
ENGINE BLOCK
(1) Clean cylinder block thoroughly and check all
core hole plugs for evidence of leaking.
(2) If new core plugs are to be installed, (Refer to 9
- ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE
CORE AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS).
(3) Examine block and cylinder bores for cracks or
fractures.
(4) Check block deck surfaces for flatness. Deck
surface must be within service limit of 0.1 mm (0.004
in.).
CYLINDER BORE
NOTE: The cylinder bores should be measured at
normal room temperature, 21ÉC (70ÉF).
Fig. 45 Cylinder Bore Cross-Hatch Pattern
1 - CROSS-HATCH PATTERN
2 - 40ɱ60É
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 113
VALVE STEM SEALS (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
Page 1316 of 2399
(4) Remove camshaft thrust plate (Fig. 47).
(5) Install a long bolt into front of camshaft to
facilitate removal of the camshaft.
(6) Remove the camshaft (Fig. 47), being careful
not to damage cam bearings with the cam lobes.
NOTE: The camshaft bearings are serviced with the
engine block.
INSPECTION
(1) Check the cam lobes and bearing surfaces for
abnormal wear and damage (Fig. 49). Replace cam-
shaft as required.
NOTE: If camshaft is replaced due to lobe wear or
damage, always replace the lifters.
(2) Measure the lobe actual wear (unworn area -
wear zone = actual wear) (Fig. 49) and replace cam-
shaft if out of limit. Standard value is 0.0254 mm
(0.001 in.), wearlimitis 0.254 mm (0.010 in.).
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing
journals with engine oil.
(2) Install a long bolt into the camshaft to assist in
the installation of the camshaft.
(3) Carefully install the camshaft in engine block.
(4) Install camshaft thrust plate and bolts (Fig.
47). Tighten to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Measure camshaft end play. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) If not within specifi-
cations, replace thrust plate.(6) Install the timing chain and sprockets. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/
CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION)
NOTE: When camshaft is replaced, all of the
hydraulic lifters must be replaced also.
(7) Install the hydraulic lifters (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
(CAM IN BLOCK) - INSTALLATION). Each lifter
reused must be installed in the same position from
which it was removed.
(8) Install the timing chain cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)
(9) Install the cylinder heads. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION)
(10) Install the cylinder head covers. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)
(11) Install the lower and upper intake manifolds.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANI-
FOLD - INSTALLATION)
(12) Install the engine assembly. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - INSTALLATION)
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING
CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE
The bearing caps are not interchangeable and
should be marked at removal to ensure correct
assembly. The bearing shells must be installed with
the tangs inserted into the machined grooves in the
rods and caps. Install cap with the tangs on the same
side as the rod. Fit all rods on one bank until com-
plete. Connecting rod bearings are available in the
standard size and the following undersizes: 0.025
mm (0.001 in.) and 0.250 mm (0.010 in.).
CAUTION: Install the bearings in pairs. Do not use a
new bearing half with an old bearing half. Do not
file the rods or bearing caps.
Measure connecting rod journal for taper and out-
of-round. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CRANKSHAFT - INSPECTION)
The connecting rod bearing clearances can be
determined by use of Plastigage or the equivalent.
The following is the recommended procedure for the
use of Plastigage:
(1) Rotate the crankshaft until the connecting rod
to be checked is at the bottom of its stroke.
(2) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
Fig. 49 Checking Camshaft for Wear (Typical)
1 - UNWORN AREA
2 - ACTUAL WEAR
3 - BEARING JOURNAL
4 - LOBE
5 - WEAR ZONE
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 115
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK) (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
Page 1317 of 2399
(3) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the bearing cap approx-
imately 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) off center and away from
the oil hole. In addition, suspect areas can be
checked by placing Plastigage in that area.
(4) Assemble the rod cap with Plastigage in place.
Tighten the rod cap to the specified torque.Do not
rotate the crankshaft while assembling the cap
or the Plastigage may be smeared, giving inac-
curate results.
(5) Remove the bearing cap and compare the
width of the flattened Plastigage with the scale pro-
vided on the package (Fig. 50). Locate the band clos-
est to the same width. This band indicates the
amount of oil clearance. Differences in readings
between the ends indicate the amount of taper
present. Record all readings taken. Refer to Engine
Specifications (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICA-
TIONS).Plastigage generally is accompanied by
two scales. One scale is in inches, the other is a
metric scale. If the bearing clearance exceeds
wear limit specification, replace the bearing.CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - 3.3L
The nodular iron crankshaft is supported by four
main bearings, with number two position the thrust
bearing (Fig. 51). Crankshaft end sealing is provided
by front and rear rubber seals.
Fig. 50 Measuring Connecting Rod Bearing
Clearance
Fig. 51 CRANKSHAFT AND ENGINE BLOCK - 3.3L
1 - MAIN BEARING CAP No. 4
2 - MAIN BEARING CAP No. 3
3 - MAIN BEARING CAP No. 2
4 - MAIN BEARING CAP BOLT (QTY. 2 PER CAP)
5 - MAIN BEARING CAP No. 1
6 - LOWER MAIN BEARING - THRUST
7 - UPPER MAIN BEARING - THRUST
8 - ENGINE BLOCK
9 - UPPER MAIN BEARINGS
10 - CRANKSHAFT
11 - LOWER MAIN BEARINGS
9 - 116 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
Page 1318 of 2399
DESCRIPTION - 3.8L
The nodular iron crankshaft is supported by four
main bearings, with number two position providing
thrust bearing location (Fig. 52). Each main bearing
cap has two vertical retaining bolts. The two center
main caps have horizontal bolts to add increased
rigidity to the lower engine block (Fig. 52). Crank-
shaft end sealing is provided by front and rear rub-
ber seals.
OPERATION
The crankshaft transfers force generated by com-
bustion within the cylinder to the flywheel or flex-
plate.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING
CRANKSHAFT END PLAY
(1) Mount a dial indicator to front of engine with
the locating probe on nose of crankshaft (Fig. 53).
(2) Move crankshaft all the way to the rear of its
travel.
(3) Zero the dial indicator.
(4) Move crankshaft all the way to the front and
read the dial indicator. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
SPECIFICATIONS) for end play specification.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine assembly. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - REMOVAL)
(2) Separate transaxle from engine.
(3) Mount engine on an engine stand.
(4) Remove the oil filter.
(5) Remove the oil pan and oil pick-up tube. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL)
(6) Remove the timing chain cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(7) Remove timing chain and sprockets. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN
AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)
(8) Remove crankshaft rear oil seal and retainer.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANK-
SHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL)
(9) Rotate the crankshaft until connecting rod cap
is accessible.
(10) Mark connecting rod cap position using a suit-
able marker/scribe tool.
(11) Remove connecting rod bearing cap. Use care
to prevent damage to the crankshaft bearing sur-
faces.
(12) Repeat removal procedure for each connecting
rod cap.
Fig. 52 CRANKSHAFT AND BLOCK - 3.8L
1 - MAIN BEARING CAP No. 4
2 - MAIN BEARING CAP No. 3
3 - MAIN BEARING CAP No. 2
4 - MAIN BEARING CAP BOLT
5 - MAIN BEARING CAP No. 1
6 - THRUST MAIN BEARING - LOWER
7 - THRUST MAIN BEARING - UPPER
8 - MAIN BEARING CAP CROSS BOLT
9 - ENGINE BLOCK
10 - MAIN BEARING - UPPER
11 - CRANKSHAFT
12 - MAIN BEARING - LOWER
Fig. 53 Checking Crankshaft End PlayÐTypical
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 117
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
Page 1319 of 2399
(13) Remove and discard the main bearing cross
bolts and washers (3.8L engine only).
NOTE: Install new cross bolt and washer assembly
(3.8L engine only) upon reassembly.
(14) Remove the main bearing cap bolts
(15) Remove the main bearing caps.
(16) Remove the crankshaft from engine block.
INSPECTION
The crankshaft journals should be checked for
excessive wear, taper and scoring (Fig. 54). Limits of
taper or out of round on any crankshaft journals
should within specitifications. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
SPECIFICATIONS) Journal grinding should not
exceed 0.305 mm (0.012 in.) under the standard jour-
nal diameter. DO NOT grind thrust faces of No. 3
main bearing. DO NOT nick crank pin or bearing fil-
lets. After grinding, remove rough edges from crank-
shaft oil holes and clean out all passages.
CAUTION: With the nodular cast iron crankshafts, it
is important that the final paper or cloth polish be
in the same direction as normal rotation in the
engine.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate with engine oil and install the crank-
shaft main bearing halves in the engine block.
(2) Position the crankshaft in engine block (Fig.
56).
(3) Perform main bearing fitting procedure. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT
MAIN BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(4) Inspect main cap bolts for stretching (Fig. 55).
Replace bolts that are stretched.
NOTE: The main cap bolts should be examined
before reuse. Bolt stretch can be checked by hold-
ing a scale or straight edge against the threads. If
all the threads do not contact the scale the bolt
must be replaced (Fig. 55).
(5) Install the main bearing caps and bolts.
Tighten bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) plus
1¤4turn.
NOTE: Install new cross bolt and washer assembly
(3.8L engine only) upon reassembly.
(6) Install and tighten the NEW cross bolts and
washer assemblies (3.8L engine only) to 61 N´m (45
ft. lbs.) (Fig. 57).
(7) Position and install the connecting rod and
bearing caps on the crankshaft. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(8) Install the crankshaft rear oil seal. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - INSTALLATION)
(9) Install the crankshaft sprocket. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN
AND SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION)
(10) Install the timing chain and camshaft
sprocket. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS -
INSTALLATION)
Fig. 54 Crankshaft Journal Measurements
Fig. 55 Check for Stretched (Necked) Bolts
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLT
9 - 118 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com