tire type CHRYSLER CARAVAN 2003 Service Manual

HUB / BEARING
DESCRIPTION
The front wheel bearing and front wheel hub of
this vehicle are a hub and bearing unit type assem-
bly (Unit III). This unit combines the front wheel
mounting hub (flange) and the front wheel bearing
into a sealed one-piece unit. The hub and bearing is
mounted to the center of the steering knuckle (Fig.
1). It is retained by four mounting bolts accessible
from the inboard side of the steering knuckle. The
hub flange has five wheel mounting studs.
The wheel mounting studs used to mount the tire
and wheel to the vehicle are the only replaceable
components of the hub and bearing assembly. Other-
wise, the hub and bearing is serviced only as a com-
plete assembly.
OPERATION
The hub and bearing has internal bearings that
allow the hub to rotate with the driveshaft, along
with the tire and wheel. The five wheel mounting
studs mount the tire and wheel, and brake rotor to
the vehicle.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING
The condition of the front hub and bearing assem-
bly is diagnosed using the inspection and testing pro-
cedure detailed below.
The bearing contained in the Unit III front hub/
bearing assembly will produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise will generally
change when the bearings are loaded. A road test of
the vehicle is normally required to determine the
location of a worn or damaged bearing.
Find a smooth level road surface and bring the
vehicle up to a constant speed. When vehicle is at a
constant speed, swerve the vehicle back and forth
from the left and to the right. This will load and
unload the bearings and change the noise level.
When bearing damage is slight, the noise is some-
times noticeable at lower speeds and at other times
is more noticeable at speeds above 105 km/h (65
mph).
REMOVAL
NOTE: Replacement of the Unit III front hub/bearing
assembly can be normally done without having to
remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. In the
event that the hub/bearing is frozen in the steering
knuckle and cannot be removed by hand, it will
have to be pressed out of the steering knuckle. The
steering knuckle will require removal from the vehi-
cle to allow the hub/bearing assembly to bepressed out of the steering knuckle. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - REMOVAL)
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove wheel lug nuts, and front tire and
wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the cotter pin, nut lock and spring
washer from the stub axle (Fig. 4).
(4) With aid of a helper applying the brakes to
keep the front hub from turning, remove the hub nut
(Fig. 4).
(5) Remove disc brake caliper and adapter as an
assembly from knuckle as shown (Fig. 5). Hang
assembly out of the way using a bungee cord or wire.
Do not allow caliper hang by brake hose.
(6) Remove brake rotor from hub and bearing (Fig.
5).
(7) Push in on end of driveshaft stub shaft, push-
ing its splines out of the hub splines.
(8) Remove the four hub and bearing mounting
bolts from the rear of steering knuckle (Fig. 6).Use
care not to come in contact with and damage
the ABS tone wheel on the driveshaft stub shaft
upon bolt removal.
(9) Remove the hub and bearing assembly from
the steering knuckle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Hub and bearing assembly mounting
surfaces on the steering knuckle and stub axle (Fig.
7) must be smooth and completely free of foreign
material or nicks prior to installing hub and bearing
assembly.
Fig. 4 Hub Nut
1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPRING WASHER
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-5
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(6) Install tie rod end into knuckle steering arm.
Start nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud
of tie rod end stationary using a socket (Fig. 11),
tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut.
Tighten the tie rod end nut to a torque of 75 N´m (55
ft. lbs.).
(7) If equipped with antilock brakes, install wheel
speed sensor and mounting bolt on steering knuckle
(Fig. 13). Tighten the speed sensor bolt to a torque of
7 N´m (60 in. lbs.).
(8) Install brake rotor on hub and bearing (Fig. 9).
(9) Install disc brake caliper and adapter assembly
on steering knuckle. Install adapter amounting bolts
and tighten to 169 N´m (125 ft. lbs.).
(10) Clean any debris from the threads of the
outer C/V joint stub axle.
(11) Install the washer and hub nut on stub axle.
(12) Have a helper apply the vehicle's brakes to
keep hub from turning, then tighten hub nut to a
torque of 244 N´m (180 ft. lbs.).
(13) Install the spring wave washer on the end of
the stub axle.
(14) Install the hub nut lock, and anewcotter pin
(Fig. 8). Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the
hub nut lock.
(15) Install wheel and tire assembly. Install and
tighten the wheel mounting nuts in proper sequence
until all nuts are torqued to half the required speci-
fication. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the
full specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(16) Lower vehicle.
(17) Set front wheel alignment camber and toe as
necessary. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL
ALIGNMENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
LOWER BALL JOINT
DESCRIPTION
The ball joint is an integral part of the lower con-
trol arm (Fig. 1). The ball joint has a tapered stud
that is pressed into the aluminum knuckle. The ball
joint stud is threaded on the end for a retainer nut.
The ball joint has a non-vented seal boot. The seal
boot has an integrated heat shield.
The ball joint used in the lower control arm of this
vehicle is a sealed-for-life ball joint and requires no
maintenance lubrication. The ball joint has been
lubricated-for-life during the manufacturing process.
A special fitting cap is installed on the fill port. This
cap must not be removed and replaced with a com-
mon zirc fitting. The special cap is there to eliminate
the possibility of lubrication latter during the ball
joints life, thus damaging the non-vented seal boot.
NOTE: The ball joint does not require any type of
additional lubrication for the life of the vehicle. No
attempt should be made to ever add any lubrication
to the lower ball joint.
OPERATION
The ball joint is a pivotal joint on the lower control
arm that allows the knuckle to move up and down,
and turn with ease.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LOWER BALL
JOINT
With the weight of the vehicle resting on the road
wheels, grasp the special fitting cap on the bottom of
the ball joint and with no mechanical assistance or
added force, attempt to rotate the grease fitting.
If the ball joint is worn, the grease fitting will
rotate easily. If movement is noted, replacement of
the control arm is recommended.
LOWER BALL JOINT SEAL
BOOT
DESCRIPTION - EXPORT
The lower ball joint seal boot is a two piece unit. It
consists of the seal boot, plus a separate shield that
is located in a groove at the top of the seal boot.
NOTE: The seal boot should only be replaced if
damaged during vehicle service. The entire lower
control arm should be replaced if the joint has been
contaminated.
Fig. 16 Correctly Installed Eccentric Attaching Bolt
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - FLANGED BOLT IN TOP HOLE
3 - CAM BOLT IN BOTTOM HOLE
4 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
2 - 10 FRONT SUSPENSIONRS
KNUCKLE (Continued)
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(4) Wipe any grease off the ball joint stem using a
clean shop towel with MopartBrake Parts Cleaner
applied to it.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to install a normal grease
zirc in the ball joint an lubricate the joint through
the zirc fitting.
(5) Reinstall steering knuckle on vehicle. (Refer to
2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - INSTALLA-
TION)
INSTALLATION - EXPORT
(1) Place a liberal dab of MopartWheel Bearing
Grease around the base of the ball joint stem at the
socket.
(2) Install aNEWseal boot by hand as far as pos-
sible on the ball joint.
CAUTION: Do not use an arbor press to install the
sealing boot on the ball joint. Damage to the seal-
ing boot will occur if excessive pressure is applied
to the sealing boot when it is being installed.
(3) Place Installer, Special Tool 6758, over seal
boot and squarely align it with bottom edge of seal
boot (Fig. 20). Apply hand pressure to Special Tool
6758 until seal boot is pressed squarely against top
surface of lower control arm.
(4) Wipe any grease off the ball joint stem.
(5) Place the shield over the top of the seal boot
and stretch it into the groove at the top of the seal
boot.CAUTION: Do not attempt to install a normal grease
zirc in the ball joint and lubricate the joint through
the zirc fitting.
(6) Reinstall steering knuckle on vehicle. (Refer to
2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - INSTALLA-
TION)
LOWER CONTROL ARM
DESCRIPTION
The lower control arm is mounted to the front sus-
pension crossmember using a pivot bolt through the
center of the front pivot bushing, and the front sus-
pension cradle crossmember reinforcement traps the
rear bushing in the crossmember (Fig. 1).
The lower control arm is an iron casting with two
rubber bushings and a ball joint. The lower control
arm front bushing is the spool type and is pressed
into the lower control arm. The standard (Low-line)
lower control arm rear bushing is a push-on bushing
that is pushed over a stem on the rear of the lower
control arm. The optional (High-line, Premium,
Sport) lower control arm rear bushing is a hydro-
bushing that is pressed on. It has liquid filled voids
that provide more effective dampening than the stan-
dard bushing. Vehicles with rear hydro-bushings uti-
lize a different lower control arm than vehicles with
standard bushings. They have a straight slightly
tapered round stem where the hydro-bushing is
mounted whereas the standard arm has a straight
stem with a squared knob on the end to retain the
bushing.
The lower control arm ball joint is pressed into the
outer end of the arm. The ball joint has a tapered
stud and retainer nut for fastening it to the steering
knuckle.
OPERATION
The lower control arm supports the lower end of
the steering knuckle and allows for the up and down
movement of the suspension during the jounce and
rebound travel. The lower control arm ball joint con-
nects the arm to the steering knuckle.
REMOVAL - LOWER CONTROL ARM
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the steering knuckle. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the bolts fastening the power steering
cooler to the front suspension cradle crossmember
reinforcement (Fig. 21).
Fig. 20 Installing Ball Joint Seal Boot (Typical)
1 - SHIELD (NOT ON RG VEHICLE)
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6758
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT
2 - 12 FRONT SUSPENSIONRS
LOWER BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT (Continued)
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(8) Raise the under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack, guiding the forward mounting bracket into
place against the body. It may help to use a drift
punch placed through the hole centered between the
mounting bolt holes in the bracket and the pilot hole
in the body of the vehicle as a guide. When the four
mounting bolt holes line up with their threads in the
body, Install the mounting bolts (Fig. 3). Tighten the
four mounting bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Raise or lower the jack until shock absorber
lower eye aligns with threads in axle housing. Install
shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Do not fully
tighten bolt at this time.
(10) Lower the vehicle and remove hoist arms and
block of wood from under vehicle.
(11) Tighten the spring front pivot bolt to 156 N´m
(115 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Tighten the lower shock absorber mounting
bolt to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.) torque.
HUB / BEARING
DESCRIPTION
The rear wheel bearing and rear wheel hub of this
vehicle are a one-piece sealed unit, or hub and bear-
ing unit type assembly (Unit III). The hub and bear-
ing is mounted to the center of the rear axle using 4mounting bolts. It has five wheel mounting studs on
the hub flange.
All-Wheel-Drive vehicles have a hub and bearing
unit with a splined hole in the center of the hub for
rear driveshaft stub axle acceptance.
Front-Wheel-Drive vehicles with antilock brakes
have an internally mounted wheel speed sensor and
tone wheel. This hub and bearing can be identified
by the rounded cap and molded in connector on the
rear of the assembly (Fig. 7). The sensor and tone
wheel cannot be serviced separately from the hub
and bearing.
OPERATION
The hub and bearing has internal bearings that
allow the hub to rotate with the tire and wheel
assembly (and driveshaft on All-Wheel-Drive vehi-
cles). The five wheel mounting studs mount the tire
and wheel assembly, and disc brake rotor or brake
drum to the vehicle.
On All-Wheel-Drive vehicles, the splined mating of
the driveshaft stub axle and hub allows the drive-
shaft to rotate with the hub and wheel.
Front-Wheel-Drive vehicles equipped with antilock
brakes have a wheel speed sensor and tone wheel
mounted to the rear of the hub and bearing. The tone
wheel rotates with the hub which is sensed by the
wheel speed sensor.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING
The bearing contained in the hub and bearing
assembly will produce noise and vibration when worn
or damaged. The noise will generally change when
the bearings are loaded. A road test of the vehicle is
normally required to determine the location of a
worn or damaged bearing.
Find a smooth level road surface and bring the
vehicle up to a constant speed. When vehicle is at a
Fig. 6 TOOL 8459 MOUNTED FOR BUSHING
INSTALLATION
1 - NUT
2 - WASHER
3 - BEARING
4 - LEAF SPRING EYE
5 - BUSHING
6 - INSTALLER PLATE (8459-3)
7 - PIN
8 - BODY (8459-1)
Fig. 7 Hub And Bearing - FWD With ABS
2 - 30 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
BUSHINGS (Continued)
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WHEEL ALIGNMENT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT.......46
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION
AND STEERING......................49
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL
ALIGNMENT.........................51STANDARD PROCEDURE - CURB HEIGHT
MEASUREMENT......................54
SPECIFICATIONS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT...................55
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Vehicle wheel alignment is the positioning of all
interrelated front and rear suspension angles. These
angles affect the handling and steering of the vehicle
when it is in motion. Proper wheel alignment is
essential for efficient steering, good directional stabil-
ity, and proper tire wear.
The method of checking a vehicle's front and rear
wheel alignment varies depending on the manufac-
turer and type of equipment used. The manufactur-
er's instructions should always be followed to ensure
accuracy of the alignment, except when
DaimlerChrysler Corporation's wheel alignment spec-
ifications differ.
On this vehicle, the suspension angles that can be
adjusted are as follows:
²Front Camber (with camber bolt package and
standard procedure)
²Front Toe
Check the wheel alignment and make all wheel
alignment adjustments with the vehicle standing at
its proper curb height specification. Curb height is
the normal riding height of the vehicle. It is mea-
sured from a certain point on the vehicle to the
ground or a designated area while the vehicle is sit-
ting on a flat, level surface. Refer to Curb Height
Measurement in this section for additional informa-
tion.
Typical wheel alignment angles and measurements
are described in the following paragraphs.
CAMBER
Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of
the tire and wheel assembly (Fig. 1). Camber is mea-
sured in degrees of angle relative to a true vertical
line. Camber is a tire wearing angle.
²Excessive negative camber will cause tread wear
at the inside of the tire.²Excessive positive camber will cause tread wear
on the outside of the tire.
CROSS CAMBER
Cross camber is the difference between left and
right camber. To achieve the cross camber reading,
subtract the right side camber reading from the left.
Fig. 1 Camber
1 - WHEELS TILTED OUT AT TOP
2 - WHEELS TILTED IN AT TOP
2 - 46 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
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front and rear drive units. The unit is totally sealed
and partially filled with silicone fluid. There is no
adjustment, maintenance or fluid checks required
during the life of the unit.
The overrunning clutch allows the rear wheels to
overrun the front wheels during a rapid front wheel
lock braking maneuver. The overrunning action pre-
vents any feed-back of front wheel braking torque to
the rear wheels. It also allows the braking system to
control the braking behavior as a two wheel drive
(2WD) vehicle.
The overrunning clutch housing has a separate oil
sump and is filled independently from the differen-
tial. The fill plug is located on the side of the over-
running clutch case. When filling the overrunning
clutch with lubricant use MopartATF+4 (Automatic
Transmission FluidÐType 9602) or equivalent.
The differential assembly contains a conventional
open differential with hypoid ring gear and pinion
gear set. The hypoid gears are lubricated by SAE
80W-90 gear lubricant.DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR DRIVELINE
MODULE NOISE
Different sources can be the cause of noise that the
rear driveline module assembly is suspected of mak-
ing. Refer to the following causes for noise diagnosis.
DRIVELINE MODULE ASSEMBLY NOISE
The most important part of driveline module ser-
vice is properly identifying the cause of failures and
noise complaints. The cause of most driveline module
failures is relatively easy to identify. The cause of
driveline module noise is more difficult to identify.
If vehicle noise becomes intolerable, an effort
should be made to isolate the noise. Many noises that
are reported as coming from the driveline module
may actually originate at other sources. For example:
²Tires
²Road surfaces
²Wheel bearings
Fig. 1 AWD Driveline Module Assembly
1 - TORQUE ARM 8 - WASHER 15 - PLUG-OVERRUNNING CLUTCH
HOUSING DRAIN
2 - INPUT FLANGE 9 - BI-DIRECTIONAL OVERRUNNING
CLUTCH (BOC)16 - SNAP RING
3 - FLANGE NUT 10 - VISCOUS COUPLER 17 - BEARING
4 - WASHER 11 - SHIM (SELECT) 18 - OVERRUNING CLUTCH HOUSING
5 - SHIELD 12 - O-RING 19 - SEAL-INPUT FLANGE
6 - VENT 13 - DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
7 - O-RING 14 - PLUG-DIFFERENTIAL FILL
3 - 24 REAR DRIVELINE MODULERS
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE (Continued)
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²Engine
²Transmission
²Exhaust
²Propeller shaft (vibration)
²Vehicle body (drumming)
Driveline module noises are normally divided into
two categories: gear noise or bearing noise. A thor-
ough and careful inspection should be completed to
determine the actual source of the noise before
replacing the driveline module.
The rubber mounting bushings help to dampen-out
driveline module noise when properly installed.
Inspect to confirm that no metal contact exists
between the driveline module case and the body. The
complete isolation of noise to one area requires
expertise and experience. Identifying certain types of
vehicle noise baffles even the most capable techni-
cians. Often such practices as:
²Increase tire inflation pressure to eliminate tire
noise.
²Listen for noise at varying speeds with different
driveline load conditions
²Swerving the vehicle from left to right to detect
wheel bearing noise.
All driveline module assemblies produce noise to a
certain extent. Slight carrier noise that is noticeable
only at certain speeds or isolated situations should be
considered normal. Carrier noise tends to peak at a
variety of vehicle speeds. Noise isNOT ALWAYSan
indication of a problem within the carrier.
TIRE NOISE
Tire noise is often mistaken for driveline module
noise. Tires that are unbalanced, worn unevenly or
are worn in a saw-tooth manner are usually noisy.
They often produce a noise that appears to originate
in the driveline module.
Tire noise changes with different road surfaces, but
driveline module noise does not. Inflate all four tires
with approximately 20 psi (138 kPa) more than the
recommended inflation pressure (for test purposes
only). This will alter noise caused by tires, but will
not affect noise caused by the differential. Rear axle
noise usually ceases when coasting at speeds less
than 30 mph (48 km/h); however, tire noise contin-
ues, but at a lower frequency, as the speed is
reduced.
After test has been completed lower tire pressure
back to recommended pressure.
GEAR NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND RING GEAR)
Abnormal gear noise is rare and is usually caused
by scoring on the ring gear and drive pinion. Scoring
is the result of insufficient or incorrect lubricant in
the carrier housing.Abnormal gear noise can be easily recognized. It
produces a cycling tone that will be very pronounced
within a given speed range. The noise can occur dur-
ing one or more of the following drive conditions:
²Drive
²Road load
²Float
²Coast
Abnormal gear noise usually tends to peak within
a narrow vehicle speed range or ranges. It is usually
more pronounced between 30 to 40 mph (48 to 64
km/h) and 50 to 60 mph (80 to 96 km/h). When objec-
tionable gear noise occurs, note the driving condi-
tions and the speed range.
BEARING NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND
DIFFERENTIAL)
Defective bearings produce a rough growl that is
constant in pitch and varies with the speed of vehi-
cle. Being aware of this will enable a technician to
separate bearing noise from gear noise.
Drive pinion bearing noise that results from defec-
tive or damaged bearings can usually be identified by
its constant, rough sound. Drive pinion front bearing
is usually more pronounced during a coast condition.
Drive pinion rear bearing noise is more pronounced
during a drive condition. The drive pinion bearings
are rotating at a higher rate of speed than either the
differential side bearings or the axle shaft bearing.
Differential side bearing noise will usually produce
a constant, rough sound. The sound is much lower in
frequency than the noise caused by drive pinion bear-
ings.
Bearing noise can best be detected by road testing
the vehicle on a smooth road (black top). However, it
is easy to mistake tire noise for bearing noise. If a
doubt exists, the tire treads should be examined for
irregularities that often causes a noise that resem-
bles bearing noise.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION NOISE
Sometimes noise that appears to be in the driv-
eline module assembly is actually caused by the
engine or the transmission. To identify the true
source of the noise, note the approximate vehicle
speed and/or RPM when the noise is most noticeable.
Stop the vehicle next to a flat brick or cement wall
(this will help reflect the sound). Place the transaxle
inNEUTRAL. Accelerate the engine slowly up
through the engine speed that matches the vehicle
speed noted when the noise occurred. If the same
noise is produced, it usually indicates that the noise
is being caused by the engine or transaxle.
RSREAR DRIVELINE MODULE3-25
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE (Continued)
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CAUTION: When replacing a master cylinder, be
sure to use the correct master cylinder for the type
of brake system the vehicle is equipped with.
The body of the master cylinder is an anodized alu-
minum casting. It has a machined bore to accept the
master cylinder pistons and threaded ports with
seats for the hydraulic brake line connections.
The brake fluid reservoir is mounted on the top of
the master cylinder. It is made of a see-through
polypropylene type plastic for easy fluid level view-
ing. A brake fluid level switch is attached to the
brake fluid reservoir.
The master cylinder is not a repairable component
and must be replaced if diagnosed to be functioning
improperly. The brake fluid reservoir and brake fluid
level switch can be replaced separately.
CAUTION: Do not hone the bore of the cylinder as
this will remove the anodized surface from the bore.
DESCRIPTION - RHD
The master cylinder used on right hand drive
(RHD) vehicles functions similarly to that used on
left hand drive (LHD) vehicles. The RHD master cyl-
inder, as well as the RHD power brake booster, is
located in the same area, but lower in the engine
compartment than LHD models (Fig. 47). For that
reason an extension manifold is placed between the
fluid reservoir and master cylinder housing allowing
the fluid reservoir to be positioned in the same loca-
tion as on LHD models.
OPERATION
When the brake pedal is depressed, the master cyl-
inder primary and secondary pistons apply brake
pressure through the chassis tubes to the brakes at
each tire and wheel assembly.
The master cylinder primary outlet port supplies
hydraulic pressure to the right front and left rear
brakes. The secondary outlet port supplies hydraulic
pressure to the left front and right rear brakes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
CAUTION: When clamping master cylinder in vise,
only clamp master cylinder by its mounting flange.
Do not clamp master cylinder piston rod, reservoir,
seal or body.
(1) Clamp master cylinder in a vise.
NOTE: Use correct bleeder tubes when bleeding
master cylinder. Master cylinder outlet ports vary in
size and type depending on whether master cylin-
der is for a vehicle equipped with traction control or
not. Traction control equipped master cylinders
require the additional use of ISO style flare adapt-
ers supplied in Special Tool Package 8822 to be
used in conjunction with Bleeder Tubes, Special
Tool Package 8358.
(2) Attach special tools for bleeding master cylin-
der in the following fashion:
(a)For non-traction control equipped mas-
ter cylinders, thread a Bleeder Tube, Special Tool
8358±1, into each outlet port. Tighten each tube to
17 N´m (145 in. lbs.) torque. Flex bleeder tubes and
place open ends into mouth of fluid reservoir as far
down as possible (Fig. 48).
(b)For traction control equipped master
cylinders, thread one Adapter, Special Tool
8822±2, in each outlet port. Tighten Adapters to 17
N´m (145 in. lbs.) torque. Next, thread a Bleeder
Tube, Special Tool 8358±1, into each Adapter.
Tighten each tube to 17 N´m (145 in. lbs.) torque.
Flex bleeder tubes and place open ends into mouth
of fluid reservoir as far down as possible (Fig. 48).
NOTE: Make sure open ends of bleeder tubes stay
below surface of brake fluid once reservoir is filled
to proper level.
(3) Fill brake fluid reservoir with Mopartbrake
fluid or equivalent conforming to DOT 3 (DOT 4 and
DOT 4+ are acceptable) specifications. Make sure
fluid level is above tips of bleeder tubes in reservoir
to ensure no air is ingested during bleeding.
Fig. 47 RHD MASTER CYLINDER AND POWER
BRAKE BOOSTER
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
3 - FLUID RESERVOIR
4 - MASTER CYLINDER
RSBRAKES - BASE5-35
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)
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Before installation, verify the brake rotor face and
the hub adapters are free of any chips, rust, or con-
tamination.
When mounting and using the brake lathe, strict
attention to the brake lathe manufacturer's operating
instructions is required.
Machine both sides of the brake rotor at the same
time. Cutting both sides at the same time minimizes
the possibility of a tapered or uneven cut.
When refacing a rotor, the required TIR (Total
Indicator Reading) and thickness variation limits
MUST BE MAINTAINED. Extreme care in the oper-
ation of rotor turning equipment is required. Specifi-
cations for brake rotor machining can be found in
this section's specification table. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTOR -
SPECIFICATIONS)
REMOVAL - FRONT BRAKE ROTOR
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.(3) Remove the two mounting bolts securing the
disc brake caliper adapter with brake caliper to the
steering knuckle (Fig. 83).
(4) Remove the disc brake caliper and adapter as
an assembly from the steering knuckle (Fig. 83).
Hang the assembly out of the way using wire or a
bungee cord. Use care not to overextend the brake
hose when doing this.
(5) Remove any retainer clips from the wheel
mounting studs.
(6) Remove brake rotor from hub by pulling it
straight off wheel mounting studs (Fig. 83).
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE ROTOR
(1) Install the brake rotor back on the hub and
bearing (Fig. 83).
(2) Install brake caliper and adapter back over
brake rotor aligning adapter with mounting holes on
steering knuckle (Fig. 83).
(3) Install the two adapter mounting bolts securing
the adapter to the steering knuckle. Tighten the
mounting bolts to 169 N´m (125 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting lug nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica-
tion, then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(5) Lower vehicle to the ground.
Fig. 81 Front Brake Rotor
1 - ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS MARKING
2 - ROTOR
Fig. 82 Rear Brake Rotor Minimum Thickness
Markings
1 - ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS AND DRUM MAXIMUM
DIAMETER SPECIFICATIONS ARE SHOWN ON THIS SURFACE
2 - REAR ROTOR
Fig. 83 Front Brake Mounting
1 - BRAKE ROTOR
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - BRAKE CALIPER
6 - ADAPTER
7 - CLIP
5 - 54 BRAKES - BASERS
ROTOR (Continued)
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SUPPORT PLATE - DRUM
BRAKE
REMOVAL
(1) Using a brake pedal depressor, move and
secure brake pedal to a position past its first 1 inch
of travel. This will prevent brake fluid from draining
out of master cylinder when brake tube is remove
from wheel cylinder.
(2) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(3) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Disconnect brake tube from rear of wheel cylin-
der. Cap open ends
(5) Remove brake drum.
(6) Remove brake shoes from brake support plate.
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the 2 bolts attaching the wheel cylin-
der to the brake support plate.
(8) Remove the wheel cylinder from the brake sup-
port plate.
(9) Disconnect the park brake cable from the park
brake actuation lever.
(10) Using a suitable tool such as a 14 mm box
wrench (Fig. 84) or an aircraft type hose clamp, com-
press the flared legs on park brake cable retainer.
Then pull the park brake cable out of brake support
plate.
(11) Remove the rear hub and bearing. (Refer to 2
- SUSPENSION/REAR/HUB / BEARING -
REMOVAL)(12) Remove the rear brake support plate from the
rear axle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the 4 hub and bearing to axle mounting
bolts into the mounting holes in the flange of the
rear axle.
(2) Install the rear brake support plate on the 4
mounting bolts installed in the flange of the rear axle
(Fig. 85).
(3) Install the rear hub and bearing (and connect
wheel speed sensor where applicable) stopping short
of installing the brake drum. (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/REAR/HUB / BEARING - INSTALLATION)
(4) Install the rear park brake cable into its
mounting hole in the rear brake support plate.
(5) Install the park brake cable on the park brake
actuation lever.
(6) Apply sealant such as Mopar Gasket-In-A-Tube
or equivalent around the wheel cylinder opening in
the brake support plate.
(7) Install wheel cylinder onto brake support.
Install and tighten the wheel cylinder to brake sup-
port plate attaching bolts to 8 N´m (75 in. lbs.)
torque.
(8) Install brake tube into wheel cylinder. Tighten
tube nut to a torque of 17 N´m (145 in. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install the rear brake shoes on the brake sup-
port plate. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/ME-
CHANICAL/BRAKE PADS/SHOES -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Install brake drum.
(11) Install wheel and tire.
(12) Tighten wheel stud nuts to 135 N´m (100 ft.
lbs.).
Fig. 84 Removing Park Brake Cable From Brake
Support Plate
1 - PARK BRAKE CABLE
2 - CABLE RETAINER
3 - 14 mm BOX WRENCH
4 - BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE
Fig. 85 Brake Support Plate Mounted On Bearing
Attaching Bolts
1 - REAR BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE
2 - HUB/BEARING MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - 56 BRAKES - BASERS
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