Vacuum line CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2004 Service Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHRYSLER, Model Year: 2004, Model line: VOYAGER, Model: CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2004Pages: 2585, PDF Size: 62.54 MB
Page 12 of 2585

VEHICLE CERTIFICATION
LABEL
DESCRIPTION
A vehicle certification label is attached to the rear
shutface of the driver's door (Fig. 8). This label indi-
cates date of manufacture (month and year), Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR) front, Gross Axle Weight Rating
(GAWR) rear and the Vehicle Identification Number
(VIN). The Month, Day and Hour of manufacture is
also included.
All communications or inquiries regarding the
vehicle should include the Month-Day-Hour and
Vehicle Identification Number.
E-MARK LABEL
DESCRIPTION
An E-mark Label (Fig. 9) is located on the rear
shut face of the driver's door. The label contains the
following information:
²Date of Manufacture
²Month-Day-Hour (MDH)
²Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
²Country Codes
²Regulation Number
²Regulation Amendment Number
²Approval Number
VECI LABEL
DESCRIPTION
All models have a Vehicle Emission Control Informa-
tion (VECI) Label. Chrysler permanently attaches the
label in the engine compartment. It cannot be removed
without defacing information and destroying the label.
The label contains the vehicle's emission specifica-
tions and vacuum hose routings. All hoses must be
connected and routed according to the label.
MANUFACTURER PLATE
DESCRIPTION
The Manufacturer Plate (Fig. 10) is located in the
engine compartment on the passenger side rear corner
of the hood. The plate contains five lines of information:
1. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
2. Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM)
3. Gross Train Mass (GTM)
4. Gross Front Axle Rating (GFAR)
5. Gross Rear Axle Rating (GRAR)
Fig. 8 VEHICLE CERTIFICATION LABEL - TYPICAL
Fig. 9 E-MARK LABEL
1 - COUNTRY CODE
2 - REGULATION NUMBER
3 - APPROVAL NUMBER
4 - AMENDMENT NUMBER
Fig. 10 MANUFACTURER PLATE
RSINTRODUCTION11
Page 153 of 2585

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
SCRAPING (METAL-TO-
METAL).1. Foreign object interference with
brakes.1. Inspect brakes and remove foreign
object.
2. Brake shoes worn out. 2. Replace brake shoes. Inspect rotors and
drums. Reface or replace as necessary.
OTHER BRAKE CONDITIONS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
BRAKES CHATTER 1. Rear brake drum out of round or
disc brake rotor has excessive
thickness variation.1. Isolate condition as rear or front.
Reface or replace brake drums or
rotors as necessary.
BRAKES DRAG (FRONT
OR ALL)1. Contaminated brake fluid. 1. Check for swollen seals. Replace all
system components containing rubber.
2. Binding caliper pins or bushings. 2. Replace pins and bushings.
3. Binding master cylinder. 3. Replace master cylinder.
4. Binding brake pedal. 4. Replace brake pedal.
5. Brake lamp switch not adjusted
properly and mounting bracket is
bent.5. Straighten mounting bracket and
replace brake lamp switch.
BRAKES DRAG (REAR
ONLY)1. Parking brake cables binding or
froze up.1. Check cable routing. Replace cables
as necessary.
2. Parking brake cable return spring
not returning shoes.2. Replace cables as necessary.
3. Service brakes not adjusted
properly (rear drum brakes only).3. Follow the procedure listed in the
adjustment section.
4. Rear disc brake parking brake not
properly adjusted.Adjust parking brake shoes.
BRAKES GRAB 1. Contaminated brake shoe linings. 1. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
2. Improper power brake booster
assist.2. Refer to power brake booster
diagnosis and testing.
EXCESSIVE PEDAL
EFFORT1. Obstruction of brake pedal. 1. Inspect, remove or move obstruction.
2. Low power brake booster assist
(vacuum leak).2. Refer to power brake booster
diagnosis and testing.
3. Glazed brake linings. 3. Reface or replace brake rotors as
necessary. Replace brake shoes.
4. Brake shoe lining transfer to brake
rotor.4. Reface or replace brake rotors as
necessary. Replace brake shoes.
EXCESSIVE PEDAL
TRAVEL (VEHICLE STOPS
OK)1. Air in brake lines. 1. Bleed brakes.
2. Rear drum brake auto-adjuster
malfunctioning.2. Inspect and replace drum brake
components as necessary. Adjust rear
brakes.
5 - 6 BRAKES - BASERS
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
Page 154 of 2585

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE PEDAL
TRAVEL (ONE FRONT
WHEEL LOCKS UP
DURING HARD BRAKING)1. One of the two hydraulic circuits
to the front brakes is malfunctioning.1. Inspect system for leaks. Check
master cylinder for internal malfunction.
PEDAL PULSATES/
SURGES DURING
BRAKING1. Rear brake drum out of round or
disc brake rotor has excessive
thickness variation.1. Isolate condition as rear or front.
Reface or replace brake drums or
rotors as necessary.
PEDAL IS SPONGY 1. Air in brake lines. 1. Bleed brakes.
2. Power brake booster runout
(vacuum assist).2. Check booster vacuum hose and
engine tune for adequate vacuum
supply. Refer to power brake booster
diagnosis and testing.
PREMATURE REAR
WHEEL LOCKUP1. Contaminated brake shoe linings. 1. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
2. Inoperative proportioning valve
(non-ABS vehicles).2. Refer to proportioning valve
diagnosis and testing. Replace valve as
necessary.
3. Improper power brake booster
assist.3. Refer to power brake booster in the
diagnosis and testing section.
STOP/BRAKE LAMPS
S TAY O N1. Brake lamp switch out of
adjustment.1. Replace brake lamp switch.
2. Brake pedal binding. 2. Inspect and replace as necessary.
3. Obstruction in pedal linkage. 3. Remove obstruction.
4. Power Brake Booster not allowing
pedal to return completely.4. Replace power brake booster.
VEHICLE PULLS TO
RIGHT OR LEFT ON
BRAKING1. Frozen brake caliper piston. 1. Replace frozen piston or caliper.
Bleed brakes.
2. Contaminated brake shoe lining. 2. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
3. Pinched brake lines. 3. Replace pinched line.
4. Leaking piston seal. 4. Replace piston seal or brake caliper.
5. Suspension problem. 5. Refer to the Suspension group.
PARKING BRAKE -
EXCESSIVE HANDLE
TRAVEL1. Rear drum brakes or rear disc
brake parking brake shoes out of
adjustment.1. Adjust rear drum brake shoes, or
rear parking brake shoes on vehicles
with rear disc brakes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BASE BRAKE
BLEEDING
NOTE: This bleeding procedure is only for the vehi-
cle's base brakes hydraulic system. For bleeding
the antilock brakes hydraulic system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - ABS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder
cover, thoroughly clean the cover and master cylin-
der fluid reservoir to prevent dirt and other foreign
matter from dropping into the master cylinder fluid
reservoir.
RSBRAKES - BASE5-7
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
Page 187 of 2585

(4) Install the four brake booster retaining nuts
inside the passenger compartment. Tighten the
mounting nuts to a torque of 29 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(5) Using lubriplate, or equivalent, coat the sur-
face of the brake pedal torque shaft pin where it con-tacts the booster input rod. Also coat the surface of
the brake pedal torque shaft pin where it contacts
the brake pedal link.
CAUTION: When installing the power brake booster
input rod on the brake pedal torque shaft pin, do
not reuse the old retaining clip.
(6) Install booster input rod on brake pedal torque
shaft pin and install a NEW retaining clip (Fig. 54).
CAUTION: When installing the brake pedal link on
the brake pedal torque shaft pin, do not reuse the
old retaining clip.
(7) Connect the brake pedal link to the torque
shaft. Install a NEW retaining clip at the torque
shaft end of the brake pedal-to-torque shaft link.
(8) Install the HVAC housing. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/HVAC
HOUSING - INSTALLATION)
(9) Install the instrument panel. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT
PANEL ASSEMBLY - INSTALLATION)
CAUTION: Do not reuse the original brake lamp
switch. The switch can only be adjusted once. That
is during initial installation of the switch. If the
switch is not adjusted properly or has been
removed for some service, a new switch must be
installed and adjusted.
(10) Remove and replace the brake lamp switch
with a NEW switch. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - REMOVAL), (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - INSTALLATION)
(11) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of
the brakes.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
The power brake booster mounts on the engine
compartment side of the dash panel. It is connected
to the brake pedal by the input (push) rod (Fig. 56).
The master cylinder is bolted to the front of the
booster. A vacuum line connects the power brake
booster to the intake manifold.
All vehicles use a 270 mm single diaphragm vac-
uum power brake booster.
Vehicles equipped with Disc/Disc brakes use a dif-
ferent power brake booster than vehicles equipped
with Disc/Drum brakes. Differences between the two
are internal. Service is the same for all boosters.
Fig. 54 POWER BRAKE BOOSTER BRACKET
1 - BOOSTER BRACKET
2 - PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT
3 - RETAINING CLIP
4 - BOOSTER MOUNTING NUTS
Fig. 55 BOOSTER, TORQUE SHAFT AND PEDAL
MOUNTING
1 - PEDAL MOUNTING NUT
2 - BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY
3 - PEDAL MOUNTING NUT
4 - PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT
5 - BOOSTER MOUNTING NUT
6 - BOOSTER BRACKET
7 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
8 - BOOSTER BRACKET MOUNTING NUT
5 - 40 BRAKES - BASERS
PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT - RHD (Continued)
Page 188 of 2585

The power brake booster can be identified by the
tag attached to the body of the booster (Fig. 57). This
tag contains the production part number, the date it
was built, and who the manufacturer of the power
brake booster is.
NOTE: The power brake booster assembly is not a
repairable component and must be replaced as a
complete assembly if found to be faulty in any way.
The check valve located on the power brake
booster face is not repairable, but it can be
replaced separately from the power brake booster.
The different engine combinations used in this
vehicle require different vacuum hose routings to the
power brake booster. All vacuum hoses must be
routed from the engine to the power brake booster
without kinks or excessively tight bends.
OPERATION
The power brake booster reduces the amount of
force required by the driver to obtain the necessary
hydraulic pressure to stop a vehicle.
The power brake booster is vacuum operated. The
vacuum is supplied from the intake manifold on the
engine through a vacuum hose and the power brake
booster check valve (Fig. 56).As the brake pedal is depressed, the power brake
booster's input rod moves forward (Fig. 56). This
opens and closes valves in the power booster allowing
atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of a dia-
phragm. Engine vacuum is always present on the
other side. This difference in pressure forces the out-
put rod of the power brake booster out against the
primary piston of the master cylinder. As the pistons
in the master cylinder move forward this creates the
hydraulic pressure in the brake system.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER
BASIC TEST
(1) With engine off, depress and release the brake
pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the
power brake booster.
(2) Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15
to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine.
The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort
should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If
the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM
LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST. If the
pedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC
TEST.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(4) Start the engine.
(5) When the engine is at warm operating temper-
ature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the
gauge.
Fig. 56 Power Brake Booster (Typical)
1 - VACUUM CHECK VALVE
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER ASSEMBLY
3 - INPUT ROD
4 - POWER BOOSTER ASSEMBLY TO DASH PANEL MOUNTING
STUDS (4)
5 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING STUDS (2)
6 - OUTPUT ROD
Fig. 57 MASTER CYLINDER AND BOOSTER
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BOOSTER IDENTIFICATION LABEL
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH CONNECTOR
4 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
5 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
6 - MASTER CYLINDER
RSBRAKES - BASE5-41
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)
Page 189 of 2585

If the vacuum supply is 12 inches Hg (40.5 kPa) or
more, the power brake booster is defective and must
be replaced. If the vacuum supply is below 12 inches
Hg, continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(6) Shut off the engine.
(7) Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum ref-
erence port on the engine intake manifold.
(8) Start the engine and observe the vacuum
gauge.
If the vacuum is still low, check the engine tune
and repair as necessary. If the vacuum is above 12
inches Hg, the hose or check valve to the booster has
a restriction or leak.
Once an adequate vacuum supply is obtained,
repeat the BASIC TEST.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(2) Start the engine.
(3) Allow the engine to warm up to normal operat-
ing temperature and engine idle.
(4) Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum
supply hose near the booster, but before the vacuum
gauge, then observe the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa)
in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 1.0
inch Hg in one minute time span. If the loss is more
than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If
it is not, continue on with this test.
(5) Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.
(6) Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of
force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady.
Do not move the pedal once the pressure is applied
or the test results may vary.
(7) Have an assistant reattach the vacuum line
pliers to the vacuum supply hose.
(8) Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe
the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa)
in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 3.0
inches Hg in 15 seconds time span. If the loss is
more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake
booster. If it is not, the booster is not defective.
(9) Remove the pliers and vacuum gauge.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LHD
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary toprevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
(2) Remove negative battery cable terminal from
battery.
(3) Remove positive battery cable terminal from
battery.
(4) Remove battery thermal guard shield.
(5) Remove battery clamp, nut and battery from
the battery tray.
(6) Remove screw securing engine coolant filler
tube to battery tray.
(7) If the vehicle is equipped with speed control,
disconnect the vacuum hose at the vacuum tank built
into the battery tray.
(8) Remove the two nuts and one bolt securing bat-
tery tray in place. Remove battery tray.
(9) If vehicle is equipped with speed control:
(a) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
the speed control servo.
(b) Remove the two servo mounting nuts.
(c) Lay speed control servo off to the side, out of
the way.
(10) Remove the wiper module (unit). (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MOD-
ULE - REMOVAL)
(11) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
brake fluid level switch in master cylinder fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 58).
Fig. 58 Master Cylinder And Booster
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BOOSTER IDENTIFICATION LABEL
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH CONNECTOR
4 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
5 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
6 - MASTER CYLINDER
5 - 42 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)
Page 249 of 2585

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE PEDAL
EFFORT 1. Obstruction of brake pedal. 1. Inspect, remove or move obstruction.
2. Low power brake booster assist
(vacuum leak). 2. Refer to power brake booster
diagnosis and testing.
3. Glazed brake linings. 3. Reface or replace brake rotors as necessary. Replace brake shoes.
4. Brake shoe lining transfer to brake
rotor. 4. Reface or replace brake rotors as
necessary. Replace brake shoes.
EXCESSIVE PEDAL
TRAVEL (VEHICLE STOPS
OK) 1. Air in brake lines. 1. Bleed brakes.
2. Rear drum brake auto-adjuster
malfunctioning.
2. Inspect and replace drum brake
components as necessary. Adjust rear
brakes.
EXCESSIVE PEDAL
TRAVEL (ONE FRONT
WHEEL LOCKS UP
DURING HARD BRAKING) 1. One of the two hydraulic circuits
to the front brakes is malfunctioning.
1. Inspect system for leaks. Check
master cylinder for internal malfunction.
PEDAL PULSATES/
SURGES DURING
BRAKING 1. Rear brake drum out of round or
disc brake rotor has excessive
thickness variation. 1. Isolate condition as rear or front.
Reface or replace brake drums or
rotors as necessary.
PEDAL IS SPONGY 1. Air in brake lines. 1. Bleed brakes. 2. Power brake booster runout
(vacuum assist). 2. Check booster vacuum hose and
engine tune for adequate vacuum
supply. Refer to power brake booster
diagnosis and testing.
PREMATURE REAR
WHEEL LOCKUP 1. Contaminated brake shoe linings. 1. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
2. Inoperative proportioning valve
(non-ABS vehicles). 2. Refer to proportioning valve
diagnosis and testing. Replace valve as
necessary.
3. Improper power brake booster
assist. 3. Refer to power brake booster in the
diagnosis and testing section.
STOP/BRAKE LAMPS
S TAY O N 1. Brake lamp switch out of
adjustment. 1. Replace brake lamp switch.
2. Brake pedal binding. 2. Inspect and replace as necessary.
3. Obstruction in pedal linkage. 3. Remove obstruction.
4. Power Brake Booster not allowing
pedal to return completely. 4. Replace power brake booster.
VEHICLE PULLS TO
RIGHT OR LEFT ON
BRAKING 1. Frozen brake caliper piston. 1. Replace frozen piston or caliper.
Bleed brakes.
2. Contaminated brake shoe lining. 2. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes. Repair source of contamination.
3. Pinched brake lines. 3. Replace pinched line.
5s - 6 BRAKESRS
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
Page 286 of 2585

INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate both ends of the torque shaft with
MS-4517 Lubricant or equivalent and install the
torque shaft from the left side reversing the removal
procedure. (2) Install the brake booster bracket on the left
end of the shaft. (3) Install the retaining nut for the brake booster
bracket in the engine compartment. Tighten the
mounting nut to a torque of 29 N´m (250 in. lbs.). (4) Install the four brake booster retaining nuts
inside the passenger compartment. Tighten the
mounting nuts to a torque of 29 N´m (250 in. lbs.). (5) Using lubriplate, or equivalent, coat the sur-
face of the brake pedal torque shaft pin where it con-
tacts the booster input rod. Also coat the surface of
the brake pedal torque shaft pin where it contacts
the brake pedal link.
CAUTION: When installing the power brake booster
input rod on the brake pedal torque shaft pin, do
not reuse the old retaining clip.
(6) Install booster input rod on brake pedal torque
shaft pin and install a NEW retaining clip (Fig. 62).
CAUTION: When installing the brake pedal link on
the brake pedal torque shaft pin, do not reuse the
old retaining clip.
(7) Connect the brake pedal link to the torque
shaft. Install a NEW retaining clip at the torque
shaft end of the brake pedal-to-torque shaft link. (8) Install the HVAC housing. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/HVAC
HOUSING - INSTALLATION) (9) Install the instrument panel. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT
PANEL ASSEMBLY - INSTALLATION)
CAUTION: Do not reuse the original brake lamp
switch. The switch can only be adjusted once. That
is during initial installation of the switch. If the
switch is not adjusted properly or has been
removed for some service, a new switch must be
installed and adjusted.
(10) Remove and replace the brake lamp switch
with a NEW switch. (Refer t o 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - REMOVAL), (Refer t o 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - INSTALLATION) (11) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of
the brakes.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
The power brake booster mounts on the engine
compartment side of the dash panel. It is connected
to the brake pedal by the input (push) rod (Fig. 64).
The master cylinder is bolted to the front of the
booster. A vacuum line connects the power brake
booster to the intake manifold.
All Left-Hand-Drive (LHD) vehicles use a 270 mm
single diaphragm vacuum power brake booster. All
Right-Hand-Drive (RHD) vehicles use a 225/200 mm
tandem diaphragm vacuum power brake booster. Vehicles equipped with Disc/Disc brakes use a dif-
ferent power brake booster than vehicles equipped
with Disc/Drum brakes. Differences between the two
are internal. Service is the same for all boosters. The power brake booster can be identified by the
tag attached to the body of the booster (Fig. 65). This
tag contains the production part number, the date it
was built, and who the manufacturer of the power
brake booster is.
Fig. 64 Power Brake Booster (Typical)
1 - VACUUM CHECK VALVE
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER ASSEMBLY
3 - INPUT ROD
4 - POWER BOOSTER ASSEMBLY TO DASH PANEL MOUNTING
STUDS (4)
5 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING STUDS (2)
6 - OUTPUT ROD
RS BRAKES5s-43
PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT - RHD (Continued)
Page 287 of 2585

NOTE: The power brake booster assembly is not a
repairable component and must be replaced as a
complete assembly if found to be faulty in any way.
The check valve located on the power brake
booster face is not repairable, but it can be
replaced separately from the power brake booster.The different engine combinations used in this
vehicle require different vacuum hose routings to the
power brake booster. All vacuum hoses must be
routed from the engine to the power brake booster
without kinks or excessively tight bends.
OPERATION
The power brake booster reduces the amount of
force required by the driver to obtain the necessary
hydraulic pressure to stop a vehicle. The power brake booster is vacuum operated. The
vacuum is supplied from the intake manifold on the
engine through a vacuum hose and the power brake
booster check valve (Fig. 64). As the brake pedal is depressed, the power brake
booster's input rod moves forward (Fig. 64). This
opens and closes valves in the power booster allowing
atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of a dia-
phragm. Engine vacuum is always present on the
other side. This difference in pressure forces the out-
put rod of the power brake booster out against the
primary piston of the master cylinder. As the pistons
in the master cylinder move forward this creates the
hydraulic pressure in the brake system.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER
BASIC TEST
(1) With engine off, depress and release the brake
pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the
power brake booster. (2) Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15
to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine. The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort
should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If
the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM
LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST. If the
pedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC
TEST. (3) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve. (4) Start the engine.
(5) When the engine is at warm operating temper-
ature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the
gauge. If the vacuum supply is 12 inches Hg (40.5 kPa) or
more, the power brake booster is defective and must
be replaced. If the vacuum supply is below 12 inches
Hg, continue on with this BASIC TEST. (6) Shut off the engine.
(7) Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum ref-
erence port on the engine intake manifold. (8) Start the engine and observe the vacuum
gauge. If the vacuum is still low, check the engine tune
and repair as necessary. If the vacuum is above 12
inches Hg, the hose or check valve to the booster has
a restriction or leak. Once an adequate vacuum supply is obtained,
repeat the BASIC TEST.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve. (2) Start the engine.
(3) Allow the engine to warm up to normal operat-
ing temperature and engine idle. (4) Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum
supply hose near the booster, but before the vacuum
gauge, then observe the vacuum gauge. If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa)
in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 1.0
inch Hg in one minute time span. If the loss is more
than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If
it is not, continue on with this test. (5) Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.
Fig. 65 MASTER CYLINDER AND BOOSTER
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BOOSTER IDENTIFICATION LABEL
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH CONNECTOR
4 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
5 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
6 - MASTER CYLINDER
5s - 44 BRAKESRS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)
Page 288 of 2585

(6) Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of
force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady.
Do not move the pedal once the pressure is applied
or the test results may vary. (7) Have an assistant reattach the vacuum line
pliers to the vacuum supply hose. (8) Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe
the vacuum gauge. If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa)
in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 3.0
inches Hg in 15 seconds time span. If the loss is
more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake
booster. If it is not, the booster is not defective. (9) Remove the pliers and vacuum gauge.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LHD
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary to
prevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes). (2) Remove negative battery cable terminal from
battery. (3) Remove positive battery cable terminal from
battery. (4) Remove battery thermal guard shield.
(5) Remove battery clamp, nut and battery from
the battery tray. (6) Remove screw securing engine coolant filler
tube to battery tray. (7) If the vehicle is equipped with speed control,
disconnect the vacuum hose at the vacuum tank built
into the battery tray. (8) Remove the two nuts and one bolt securing bat-
tery tray in place. Remove battery tray. (9) If vehicle is equipped with speed control:(a) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
the speed control servo. (b) Remove the two servo mounting nuts.
(c) Lay speed control servo off to the side, out of
the way.
(10) Remove the wiper module (unit). (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MOD-
ULE - REMOVAL) (11) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
brake fluid level switch in master cylinder fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 66).
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder
from the power brake vacuum booster, the master
cylinder and vacuum booster must be thoroughly
cleaned. This must be done to prevent dirt particles
from falling into the power brake vacuum booster.
(12) Clean area where master cylinder assembly
attaches to power brake booster. Use only a solvent
such as Mopar tBrake Parts Cleaner or equivalent.
(13) Disconnect primary and secondary brake
tubes from ABS integrated control unit or non-ABS
junction block (Fig. 67). Install sealing plugs in the
now open brake tube ports and install caps on ends
of tubes.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the brake
tubes from the master cylinder when removing the
master cylinder from the vacuum booster.
(14) Remove two nuts attaching master cylinder to
power brake booster (Fig. 67). (15) Slide master cylinder straight out of power
brake booster. Remove master cylinder with primary
and secondary tubes from vehicle.
CAUTION: A seal on the rear of the master cylinder
is used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
power brake vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on
the master cylinder MUST be replaced whenever the
master cylinder is removed from the power brake
vacuum booster.
Fig. 66 Master Cylinder And Booster
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BOOSTER IDENTIFICATION LABEL
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH CONNECTOR
4 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
5 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
6 - MASTER CYLINDER
RS BRAKES5s-45
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)