vehicle DODGE DURANGO 1998 1.G Service Manual

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (13) Install distributor and distributor drive shaft.
(14) Install push rods and tappets.
(15) Install rocker arms.
(16) Install timing case cover.
(17) Install cylinder head covers.
(18) Install intake manifold.
(19) Install the engine cover.
(20) Install the A/C Condenser (if equipped).
(21) Install the radiator. Refer to Group 7, Cooling
for the correct procedures.
(22) Refill cooling system. Refer to Group 7, Cool-
ing for the correct procedures.
(23) Start engine check for leaks.
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure requires that the engine is
removed from the vehicle.
(1) With engine completely disassembled, drive out
rear cam bearing core plug.
(2) Install proper size adapters and horseshoe
washers (part of Camshaft Bearing Remover/Installer
Tool C-3132-A) at back of each bearing shell. Drive
out bearing shells (Fig. 57).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new camshaft bearings with Camshaft
Bearing Remover/Installer Tool C-3132-A by sliding
the new camshaft bearing shell over proper adapter.
(2) Position rear bearing in the tool. Install horse-
shoe lock and by reversing removal procedure, care-
fully drive bearing shell into place.
(3) Install remaining bearings in the same man-
ner. Bearings must be carefully aligned to bring oil
holes into full register with oil passages from the
main bearing. If the camshaft bearing shell oil holes
are not in exact alignment, remove and install them
correctly. Install a new core hole plug at the rear of
camshaft.Be sure this plug does not leak.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan.
(2) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap.
(3) Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove
bearing caps one at a time.
(4) Remove upper half of bearing by inserting
Crankshaft Main Bearing Remover/Installer Tool
C-3059 into the oil hole of crankshaft (Fig. 58).
(5) Slowly rotate crankshaft clockwise, forcing out
upper half of bearing shell.
Fig. 56 Alignment of Timing Marks
1 ± TIMING MARKSFig. 57 Camshaft Bearings Removal/Installation with
Tool C-3132-A
1 ± SPECIAL TOOL C-3132±A
2 ± MAIN BEARING OIL HOLE
Fig. 58 Upper Main Bearing Removal and
Installation with Tool C-3059
1 ± SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
2 ± BEARING
3 ± SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
4 ± BEARING
DN5.2L ENGINE 9 - 113
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine After the distributor has been installed, its rota-
tional position must be set using theSET SYNC
mode of the DRB scan tool. Refer to Checking Dis-
tributor Position following the Distributor Installa-
tion section in Group 8D, Ignition system.
Do not attempt to adjust ignition timing by
rotating the distributor. It has no effect on igni-
tion timing. Adjusting distributor position will
effect fuel synchronization only.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
2WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(3) Remove engine oil dipstick.
(4) Disconnect distributor cap and position away
from cowl.
(5) Remove the fan shroud. Refer to COOLING
SYSTEM.
(6) Disconnect throttle valve cable from throttle
body and mounting bracket (Fig. 62A).
(7) Raise vehicle.
(8) Drain engine oil.
(9) Remove exhaust pipe from exhaust manifolds.
(10) Remove engine mount insulator through bolts.
(11) Raise engine by way of oil pan using a block
of wood between the jack and oil pan.
(12) When engine is high enough, place mount
through bolts in the engine mount attaching points
on the frame brackets.
(13) Lower engine so bottom of engine mounts rest
on the replacement bolts placed in the engine mount
frame brackets.
(14) Remove transmission to engine braces.
(15) Remove starter. Refer to STARTING SYS-
TEMS.(16) Remove transmission torque converter inspec-
tion cover.
(17) Disconnect rear support cushion from cross-
member.
(18) Raise rear of transmission away from cross-
member.
(19) Remove oil pan and one-piece gasket.
4WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Drain engine oil.
(5) Remove front driving axle. Refer to DIFFER-
ENTIAL and DRIVELINE.
(6) Remove both engine mount support brackets.
(7) Remove transmission torque converter inspec-
tion cover.
(8) Remove oil pan and one-piece gasket.
INSTALLATION
2WD
(1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 5/16x11/2
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier
installation and removal with a screwdriver (Fig. 63).
Fig. 62 Position of Oil Pump Shaft Slot
1 ± DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE
Fig. 62A Throttle Valve Cable Removal/Installation
1 ± TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE CABLE BRACKET
2 ± AIR INLET DUCT
3 ± TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE CABLE
DN5.2L ENGINE 9 - 115
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
2000 DN Service Manual
Publication No. 81-370-0016
TSB 26-12-99 December, 1999

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (2)Install the dowels in the cylinder block (Fig. 64).
(3) Apply small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent in the corner of the
cap and the cylinder block.
(4) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block.
(5) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket.
(6) Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24
N´m (215 in. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining oil
pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 24 N´m (215 in. lbs.)
torque.(8) Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Lower transmission onto crossmember.
(10) Install rear support cushion mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(11) Raise engine by way of oil pan with a wood
block placed between jack and oil pan.
(12) Remove through bolts from frame brackets
and lower engine. Install mount insulator through
bolts and tighten to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(13) Install starter.
(14) Install transmission torque converter inspec-
tion cover.
(15) Install engine to transmission braces.
(16) Install exhaust pipe.
(17) Lower vehicle.
(18) Position throttle valve cable into bracket, then
attach to throttle body (Fig. 62A).
(19) Connect the distributor cap.
(20) Install dipstick.
(21) Install fan shroud.
(22) Install air cleaner assembly.
(23) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(24) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
4WD
(1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1 1/2 x 5/16
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier
installation and removal with a screwdriver (Fig. 63).
(2) Install the dowels in the cylinder block (Fig.
64).
(3) Apply small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent in the corner of the
cap and the cylinder block.
(4) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block.
(5) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket.
(6) Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24
N´m (215 in. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining oil
pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 24 N´m (215 in. lbs.)
torque.
(8) Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install transmission inspection cover.
(10) Install engine mount support brackets and
insulators.
(11) Install front drive axle. Refer to DIFFEREN-
TIAL and DRIVELINE.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Connect the distributor cap.
(14) Install dipstick.
(15) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(16) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
Fig. 63 Fabrication of Alignment Dowels
1 ± 1 1/2º x 5/16º BOLT
2 ± DOWEL
3 ± SLOT
Fig. 64 Position of Dowels in Cylinder Block
1 ± DOWEL
2 ± DOWEL
3 ± DOWEL
4 ± DOWEL
9 - 115A 5.2L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
2000 DN Service Manual
Publication No. 81-370-0016
TSB 26-12-99 December, 1999

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine from the vehicle.
(2) Remove the cylinder head.
(3) Remove the oil pan.
(4) Remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reli-
able ridge reamer before removing pistons from cyl-
inder block. Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered
during this operation.
(5) Be sure the connecting rod and connecting rod
cap are identified with the cylinder number. Remove
connecting rod cap. Install connecting rod bolt guide
set on connecting rod bolts.
(6) Pistons and connecting rods must be removed
from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and
connecting rod assemblies, rotate crankshaft to cen-
ter the connecting rod in the cylinder bore and at
BDC.Be careful not to nick crankshaft journals.
(7) After removal, install bearing cap on the mat-
ing rod.
INSTALLATION
(1) Be sure that compression ring gaps are stag-
gered so that neither is in-line with oil ring rail gap.
(2) Before installing the ring compressor, make
sure the oil ring expander ends are butted and the
rail gaps located properly (Fig. 65).
(3) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean
engine oil. Slide Piston Ring Compressor Tool C-385
over the piston and tighten with the special wrench
(part of Tool C-385).Be sure position of rings
does not change during this operation.(4) Install connecting rod bolt protectors on rod
bolts, the long protector should be installed on the
numbered side of the connecting rod.
(5) Rotate crankshaft so that the connecting rod
journal is on the center of the cylinder bore. Be sure
connecting rod and cylinder bore number are the
same. Insert rod and piston into cylinder bore and
guide rod over the crankshaft journal.
(6) Tap the piston down in cylinder bore, using a
hammer handle. At the same time, guide connecting
rod into position on crankshaft journal.
(7) The notch or groove on top of piston must be
pointing toward front of engine. The larger chamfer
of the connecting rod bore must be installed toward
crankshaft journal fillet.
(8) Install rod caps. Be sure connecting rod, con-
necting rod cap and cylinder bore number are the
same. Install nuts on cleaned and oiled rod bolts and
tighten nuts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install the oil pan.
(10) Install the cylinder head.
(11) Install the engine into the vehicle.CRANKSHAFT
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be done in vehicle.
However the transmission must be removed first.
(1) If crankshaft is to be removed while engine is
in vehicle remove the transmission. Refer to Group
21, for correct procedure.
(2) Remove the oil pan.
(3) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap.
(4) Remove the vibration damper.
(5) Remove the timing chain cover.
(6) Identify rod bearing caps before removal.
Remove rod bearing caps with bearings.
CAUTION: Support crankshaft before removing
main bearing caps. failure to do so will allow the
crankshaft to fall damaging the crankshaft.
(7) Using a suitable jack, support the crankshaft.
(8) Identify main bearing caps before removal.
Remove main bearing caps and bearings one at a
time.
(9) Lower the crankshaft out of the block.
(10) Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil
seals.
(11) Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil
seal.
Fig. 65 Proper Ring Installation
1 ± OIL RING SPACER GAP
2 ± SECOND COMPRESSION RING GAP OIL RING RAIL GAP
(TOP)
3 ± OIL RING RAIL GAP (BOTTOM)
4 ± TOP COMPRESSION RING GAP
9 - 116 5.2L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than 2 times for proper engagement.
(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten ALL cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump.
(9) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to
provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig. 72).
Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan.
LOWER SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan.
(2) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap.
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap and discard
the old lower seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the rear main cap mating surfaces
including the oil pan gasket groove.
(2) Carefully install a new upper seal (refer to
Upper Seal Replacement - Crankshaft Installed pro-
cedure above).
(3) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(4) Install a new lower seal in bearing cap with
the white paint facing the rear of engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 71). DO NOT over apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than 2 times for proper engagement.
(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten the cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump.
(9) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to
provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig. 72).
Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan.
ENGINE CORE OIL AND CAMSHAFT PLUGS
Engine core plugs have been pressed into the oil
galleries behind the camshaft thrust plate (Fig. 73).
This will reduce internal leakage and help maintain
higher oil pressure at idle.
REMOVAL
(1) Using a blunt tool such as a drift or a screw-
driver and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the
cup plug (Fig. 74).
(2) With the cup plug rotated, grasp firmly with
pliers or other suitable tool and remove plug (Fig.
74).
INSTALLATION
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Be certain the new plug is cleaned of all oil or
grease.
(1) Coat edges of plug and core hole with Mopart
Gasket Maker, or equivalent.
CAUTION: DO NOT drive cup plug into the casting,
as restricted coolant flow can result and cause seri-
ous engine problems.
(2) Using proper plug drive, drive cup plug into
hole. The sharp edge of the plug should be at least
0.50 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead-in chamfer.
(3) It is not necessary to wait for curing of the
sealant. The cooling system can be filled and the
vehicle placed in service immediately.
Fig. 73 Location of Cup Plugs in Oil Galleries
1 ± CUP PLUGS
9 - 120 5.2L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CYLINDER BLOCK
DISASSEMBLE
With Engine removed from vehicle:
(1) Remove the cylinder heads. refer to Cylinder
Head in this section for correct procedure.
(2) Remove the exhaust manifolds. Refer to
Exhaust Manifolds in this section.
(3) Remove the oil pan. Refer to Oil Pan in this
section.
(4) Remove the piston and connecting rod assem-
blies. Refer to Piston and Connecting Rod in this sec-
tion.
(5) Remove the crankshaft. Refer to Crankshaft in
this section.
(6) Remove the core plugs.
ASSEMBLE
(1) Install the core plugs.
(2) Install the crankshaft.
(3) Install the piston and connecting rods.
(4) Install the oil pan.
(5) Install the cylinder heads.
(6) Install the exhaust manifolds.
(7) Install the intake manifold.
(8) Install the engine into the vehicle.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CYLINDER HEAD COVER
CLEANING
Clean cylinder head cover gasket surface.
Clean head rail, if necessary.
INSPECTION
Inspect cover for distortion and straighten, if nec-
essary.
Check the gasket for use in head cover installation.
If damaged, use a new gasket.
CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY
CLEANING
Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder
heads.
Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket surfaces
using a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect all surfaces with a straightedge if there is
any reason to suspect leakage. If out-of-flatness
exceeds 0.00075 mm/mm (0.00075 inch/inch) times
the span length in inches in any direction, either
replace head or lightly machine the head surface.
FOR EXAMPLE:A 305 mm (12 inch) span is
0.102 mm (0.004 inch) out-of-flat. The allowable out-
of-flat is 305 X 0.00075 (12 X 0.00075) equals 0.23
mm (0.009 inch). This amount of out-of-flat is accept-
able.
The cylinder head surface finish should be
1.78-3.00 microns (70-125 microinches).
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY
INSPECTION
Check the crankshaft connecting rod journal for
excessive wear, taper and scoring.
Check the cylinder block bore for out-of-round,
taper, scoring and scuffing.
Check the pistons for taper and elliptical shape
before they are fitted into the cylinder bore (Fig. 83).
OIL PAN
CLEANING
Clean the block and pan gasket surfaces.
Trim or remove excess sealant film in the rear
main cap oil pan gasket groove.DO NOT remove
the sealant inside the rear main cap slots.
If present, trim excess sealant from inside the
engine.
Fig. 82 Oil Pump
1 ± INNER ROTOR AND SHAFT
2 ± BODY
3 ± DISTRIBUTOR DRIVESHAFT (REFERENCE)
4 ± COTTER PIN
5 ± RETAINER CAP
6 ± SPRING
7 ± RELIEF VALVE
8 ± LARGE CHAMFERED EDGE
9 ± BOLT
10 ± COVER
11 ± OUTER ROTOR
9 - 124 5.2L ENGINEDN
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 5.9L ENGINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
ENGINE...............................136
ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM............136
EXHAUST MANIFOLD....................139
INTAKE MANIFOLD......................139
CYLINDER HEAD COVER GASKET..........140
CYLINDER HEAD........................140
VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS.............140
ENGINE OIL PAN........................140
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALS.................140
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD...........140
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS............141
CRANKSHAFT..........................141
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
ENGINE DIAGNOSISÐINTRODUCTION.......141
SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐGASOLINE ENGINES . . 142
INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS....145
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST . 145
CYLINDER HEAD GASKET FAILURE
DIAGNOSIS...........................146
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE
LEAKAGE TEST.......................146
INSPECTION (ENGINE OIL LEAKS IN
GENERAL)...........................147
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKSÐINSPECTION.....147
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS....................148
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE..................148
SERVICE PROCEDURES
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS................149
ENGINE PERFORMANCE.................149
ENGINE OIL............................150
REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS.....151
CYLINDER BOREÐHONING...............152
HYDROSTATIC LOCK.....................152
VALVE TIMING..........................153
VALVE SERVICE........................153
MEASURING TIMING CHAIN STRETCH.......155
PISTONSÐFITTING......................156
PISTON RINGSÐFITTING.................156
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGSÐFITTING.....157
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGSÐFITTING....157
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
ENGINE FRONT MOUNTS.................158ENGINE REAR SUPPORT.................160
ENGINE ASSEMBLY......................161
INTAKE MANIFOLD......................163
EXHAUST MANIFOLD....................165
CYLINDER HEAD COVER.................165
ROCKER ARMS AND PUSH RODS..........166
VALVE SPRING AND STEM SEAL
REPLACEMENT-IN VEHICLE.............166
CYLINDER HEAD........................167
VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS.............167
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS....................168
VIBRATION DAMPER.....................168
TIMING CHAIN COVER...................169
TIMING CHAIN..........................170
CAMSHAFT............................170
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS...................172
DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT BUSHING......172
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS............174
OILPAN...............................174
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY . . 175
CRANKSHAFT..........................176
OIL PUMP.............................177
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALÐFRONT...........178
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALSÐREAR...........179
ENGINE CORE OIL AND CAMSHAFT PLUGS . . 180
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
OIL PUMP.............................181
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CYLINDER HEAD COVER.................182
CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY..............182
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY . . 182
OILPAN...............................182
OIL PUMP.............................182
CYLINDER BLOCK.......................185
INTAKE MANIFOLD......................185
EXHAUST MANIFOLD....................185
SPECIFICATIONS
5.9L ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS.............185
SPECIFICATIONS........................189
SPECIAL TOOLS
5.9L ENGINE...........................189
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 135

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to the Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leak-
age Test Diagnosis chart.
INSPECTION (ENGINE OIL LEAKS IN GENERAL)
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.
(5) If the oil leak source is not positively identified
at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(7) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKSÐINSPECTION
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces. See Group 9, Engines, for
proper repair procedures of these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, Refer to Group
9, EnginesÐCrankshaft Rear Oil Seals, for proper
replacement procedures.
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 147
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by theplunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 11).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch)
diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tap-
pet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal
position.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7) Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push
rod.
(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the
base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2
seconds.
(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require
20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with
leak-down time interval not within this specification.
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit.
9 - 148 5.9L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292. Start engine and record pressure. Refer to
Oil Pressure in Engine Specifications for the proper
pressures.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS
There are several places where form-in-place gas-
kets are used on the engine.DO NOT use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Care
must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets.
Bead size, continuity and location are of great impor-
tance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too
much can result in spill-over. A continuous bead of
the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free
joint.
Two types of form-in-place gasket materials are
used in the engine area (Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant and Mopar Gasket Maker). Each
have different properties and cannot be used inter-
changeably.
MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, normally
black in color, is available in 3 ounce tubes. Moisture
in the air causes the sealant material to cure. This
material is normally used on flexible metal flanges.
It has a shelf life of a year and will not properly cure
if over aged. Always inspect the package for the expi-
ration date before use.
MOPAR GASKET MAKER
Mopar Gasket Maker, normally red in color, is
available in 6 cc tubes. This anaerobic type gasket
material cures in the absence of air when squeezed
between smooth machined metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. DO NOT use
on flexible metal flanges.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Parts assembled with form-in-place gaskets may be
disassembled without unusual effort. In some
instances, it may be necessary to lightly tap the part
with a mallet or other suitable tool to break the seal
between the mating surfaces. A flat gasket scraper
may also be lightly tapped into the joint but care
must be taken not to damage the mating surfaces.
Scrape or wire brush all gasket surfaces to remove
all loose material. Inspect stamped parts to ensure
gasket rails are flat. Flatten rails with a hammer on
a flat plate, if required. Gasket surfaces must be free
of oil and dirt. Make sure the old gasket material is
removed from blind attaching holes.
GASKET APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care.
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant should be
applied in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm
(0.12 inch) in diameter. All mounting holes must be
circled. For corner sealing,a3or6mm(1/8 or 1/4
inch) drop is placed in the center of the gasket con-
tact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a
shop towel. Components should be torqued in place
while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10
minutes). The use of a locating dowel is recom-
mended during assembly to prevent smearing the
material off location.
Mopar Gasket Maker should be applied sparingly
to one gasket surface. The sealant diameter should
be 1.00 mm (0.04 inch) or less. Be certain the mate-
rial surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material
can easily be wiped off. Components should be
torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing the material off location.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
It is important that the vehicle is operating to its
optimum performance level to maintain fuel economy
and the lowest emission levels. If vehicle is not oper-
ating to these standards, refer to Engine Diagnosis
outlined in this section. The following procedures can
assist in achieving the proper engine diagnosis.
(1) Test cranking amperage draw. Refer to Electri-
cal Group 8B, Cold Cranking Test.
Fig. 11 Leak-Down Tester
1 ± POINTER
2 ± WEIGHTED ARM
3 ± RAM
4 ± CUP
5 ± HANDLE
6 ± PUSH ROD
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 149
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)