torque DODGE DURANGO 1998 1.G Repair Manual

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (2)Install the dowels in the cylinder block (Fig. 64).
(3) Apply small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent in the corner of the
cap and the cylinder block.
(4) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block.
(5) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket.
(6) Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24
N´m (215 in. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining oil
pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 24 N´m (215 in. lbs.)
torque.(8) Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Lower transmission onto crossmember.
(10) Install rear support cushion mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(11) Raise engine by way of oil pan with a wood
block placed between jack and oil pan.
(12) Remove through bolts from frame brackets
and lower engine. Install mount insulator through
bolts and tighten to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(13) Install starter.
(14) Install transmission torque converter inspec-
tion cover.
(15) Install engine to transmission braces.
(16) Install exhaust pipe.
(17) Lower vehicle.
(18) Position throttle valve cable into bracket, then
attach to throttle body (Fig. 62A).
(19) Connect the distributor cap.
(20) Install dipstick.
(21) Install fan shroud.
(22) Install air cleaner assembly.
(23) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(24) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
4WD
(1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1 1/2 x 5/16
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier
installation and removal with a screwdriver (Fig. 63).
(2) Install the dowels in the cylinder block (Fig.
64).
(3) Apply small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent in the corner of the
cap and the cylinder block.
(4) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block.
(5) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket.
(6) Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24
N´m (215 in. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining oil
pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 24 N´m (215 in. lbs.)
torque.
(8) Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install transmission inspection cover.
(10) Install engine mount support brackets and
insulators.
(11) Install front drive axle. Refer to DIFFEREN-
TIAL and DRIVELINE.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Connect the distributor cap.
(14) Install dipstick.
(15) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(16) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
Fig. 63 Fabrication of Alignment Dowels
1 ± 1 1/2º x 5/16º BOLT
2 ± DOWEL
3 ± SLOT
Fig. 64 Position of Dowels in Cylinder Block
1 ± DOWEL
2 ± DOWEL
3 ± DOWEL
4 ± DOWEL
9 - 115A 5.2L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
2000 DN Service Manual
Publication No. 81-370-0016
TSB 26-12-99 December, 1999

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine from the vehicle.
(2) Remove the cylinder head.
(3) Remove the oil pan.
(4) Remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reli-
able ridge reamer before removing pistons from cyl-
inder block. Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered
during this operation.
(5) Be sure the connecting rod and connecting rod
cap are identified with the cylinder number. Remove
connecting rod cap. Install connecting rod bolt guide
set on connecting rod bolts.
(6) Pistons and connecting rods must be removed
from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and
connecting rod assemblies, rotate crankshaft to cen-
ter the connecting rod in the cylinder bore and at
BDC.Be careful not to nick crankshaft journals.
(7) After removal, install bearing cap on the mat-
ing rod.
INSTALLATION
(1) Be sure that compression ring gaps are stag-
gered so that neither is in-line with oil ring rail gap.
(2) Before installing the ring compressor, make
sure the oil ring expander ends are butted and the
rail gaps located properly (Fig. 65).
(3) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean
engine oil. Slide Piston Ring Compressor Tool C-385
over the piston and tighten with the special wrench
(part of Tool C-385).Be sure position of rings
does not change during this operation.(4) Install connecting rod bolt protectors on rod
bolts, the long protector should be installed on the
numbered side of the connecting rod.
(5) Rotate crankshaft so that the connecting rod
journal is on the center of the cylinder bore. Be sure
connecting rod and cylinder bore number are the
same. Insert rod and piston into cylinder bore and
guide rod over the crankshaft journal.
(6) Tap the piston down in cylinder bore, using a
hammer handle. At the same time, guide connecting
rod into position on crankshaft journal.
(7) The notch or groove on top of piston must be
pointing toward front of engine. The larger chamfer
of the connecting rod bore must be installed toward
crankshaft journal fillet.
(8) Install rod caps. Be sure connecting rod, con-
necting rod cap and cylinder bore number are the
same. Install nuts on cleaned and oiled rod bolts and
tighten nuts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install the oil pan.
(10) Install the cylinder head.
(11) Install the engine into the vehicle.CRANKSHAFT
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be done in vehicle.
However the transmission must be removed first.
(1) If crankshaft is to be removed while engine is
in vehicle remove the transmission. Refer to Group
21, for correct procedure.
(2) Remove the oil pan.
(3) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap.
(4) Remove the vibration damper.
(5) Remove the timing chain cover.
(6) Identify rod bearing caps before removal.
Remove rod bearing caps with bearings.
CAUTION: Support crankshaft before removing
main bearing caps. failure to do so will allow the
crankshaft to fall damaging the crankshaft.
(7) Using a suitable jack, support the crankshaft.
(8) Identify main bearing caps before removal.
Remove main bearing caps and bearings one at a
time.
(9) Lower the crankshaft out of the block.
(10) Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil
seals.
(11) Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil
seal.
Fig. 65 Proper Ring Installation
1 ± OIL RING SPACER GAP
2 ± SECOND COMPRESSION RING GAP OIL RING RAIL GAP
(TOP)
3 ± OIL RING RAIL GAP (BOTTOM)
4 ± TOP COMPRESSION RING GAP
9 - 116 5.2L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine INSTALLATION
(1) Clean Gasket Maker residue and sealant from
the cylinder block and rear cap mating surface. Do
this before applying the MopartGasket Maker and
the installation of rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil.
(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with
the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 66). DO NOT over apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(8) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than 2 times for proper engagement.
(9) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main
bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install oil pump.
(11) Install the timing chain cover.
(12) Install the vibration damper.
(13) Position the connecting rods onto the crank-
shaft and install the rod bearing caps. Tighten the
nuts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(14) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to
provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig. 67).Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(15) Install new front crankshaft oil seal.
(16) Immediately install the oil pan.
(17) If the transmission was removed, install the
transmission.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan.
(2) Remove the oil pump from rear main bearing
cap.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install oil pump. During installation slowly
rotate pump body to ensure driveshaft-to-pump rotor
shaft engagement.
(2) Hold the oil pump base flush against mating
surface on No.5 main bearing cap. Finger tighten
pump attaching bolts. Tighten attaching bolts to 41
N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the oil pan.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALÐFRONT
The oil seal can be replaced without removing the
timing chain cover provided the cover is not mis-
aligned.
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove vibration damper.
(3) If front seal is suspected of leaking, check front
oil seal alignment to crankshaft. The seal installa-
tion/alignment tool 6635, should fit with minimum
Fig. 66 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap
1 ± .25 DROP OF LOCTITE 515 ON BOTH SIDES OF REAR
MAIN CAP
Fig. 67 Apply Sealant to Bearing Cap to Block Joint
1 ± MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT NOZZLE
TIP
2 ± SEALANT APPLIED
3 ± CYLINDER BLOCK
4 ± REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
DN5.2L ENGINE 9 - 117
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil.
(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with
the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 71). DO NOT over apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(8) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than 2 times for proper engagement.
(9) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main
bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install oil pump.
(11) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to
provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig. 72).
Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(12) Install new front crankshaft oil seal.
(13) Immediately install the oil pan.
UPPER SEAL ÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan.
(2) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap.
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap. Remove
and discard the old lower oil seal.
(4) Carefully remove and discard the old upper oil
seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the cylinder block mating surfaces before
oil seal installation. Check for burr at the oil hole on
the cylinder block mating surface to rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil. To allow ease of installation of the seal, loosen at
least the 2 main bearing caps forward of the rear
bearing cap.
(3) Rotate the new upper seal into the cylinder
block being careful not to shave or cut the outer sur-
face of the seal. To assure proper installation, use the
installation tool provided with the kit. Install the
new seal with the white paint facing towards the
rear of the engine.
(4) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 71). DO NOT over apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application. Be sure the white paint faces
toward the rear of the engine.
Fig. 71 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap
1 ± MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT SLOTS
2 ± LOCTITE 518 (OR EQUIVALENT)
3 ± CAP ALIGNMENT SLOT
4 ± REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
Fig. 72 Apply Sealant to Bearing Cap to Block Joint
1 ± MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT NOZZLE
TIP
2 ± SEALANT APPLIED
3 ± CYLINDER BLOCK
4 ± REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
DN5.2L ENGINE 9 - 119
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than 2 times for proper engagement.
(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten ALL cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump.
(9) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to
provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig. 72).
Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan.
LOWER SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan.
(2) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap.
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap and discard
the old lower seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the rear main cap mating surfaces
including the oil pan gasket groove.
(2) Carefully install a new upper seal (refer to
Upper Seal Replacement - Crankshaft Installed pro-
cedure above).
(3) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(4) Install a new lower seal in bearing cap with
the white paint facing the rear of engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 71). DO NOT over apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than 2 times for proper engagement.
(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten the cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump.
(9) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to
provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig. 72).
Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan.
ENGINE CORE OIL AND CAMSHAFT PLUGS
Engine core plugs have been pressed into the oil
galleries behind the camshaft thrust plate (Fig. 73).
This will reduce internal leakage and help maintain
higher oil pressure at idle.
REMOVAL
(1) Using a blunt tool such as a drift or a screw-
driver and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the
cup plug (Fig. 74).
(2) With the cup plug rotated, grasp firmly with
pliers or other suitable tool and remove plug (Fig.
74).
INSTALLATION
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Be certain the new plug is cleaned of all oil or
grease.
(1) Coat edges of plug and core hole with Mopart
Gasket Maker, or equivalent.
CAUTION: DO NOT drive cup plug into the casting,
as restricted coolant flow can result and cause seri-
ous engine problems.
(2) Using proper plug drive, drive cup plug into
hole. The sharp edge of the plug should be at least
0.50 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead-in chamfer.
(3) It is not necessary to wait for curing of the
sealant. The cooling system can be filled and the
vehicle placed in service immediately.
Fig. 73 Location of Cup Plugs in Oil Galleries
1 ± CUP PLUGS
9 - 120 5.2L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (2) Measure the concentricity of valve seat using a
dial indicator. Total runout should not exceed 0.051
mm (0.002 inch) total indicator reading.
(3) Inspect the valve seat with Prussian blue to
determine where the valve contacts the seat. To do
this, coat valve seat LIGHTLY with Prussian blue
then set valve in place. Rotate the valve with light
pressure. If the blue is transferred to the center of
valve face, contact is satisfactory. If the blue is trans-
ferred to the top edge of valve face, lower valve seat
with a 15É stone. If the blue is transferred to bottom
edge of valve face raise valve seat with a 60É stone.
(4) When seat is properly positioned the width of
intake seats should be 1.016-1.524 mm (0.040-0.060
inch). The width of the exhaust seats should be
1.524-2.032 mm (0.060-0.080 inch).
VALVE SPRING INSPECTION
Whenever valves have been removed for inspection,
reconditioning or replacement, valve springs should
be tested. As an example the compression length of
the spring to be tested is 1-5/16 inch. Turn table of
Universals Valve Spring Tester Tool until surface is
in line with the 1-5/16 inch mark on the threaded
stud. Be sure the zero mark is to the front (Fig. 80).
Place spring over stud on the table and lift compress-
ing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench
until ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench
at this instant. Multiply this reading by 2. This will
give the spring load at test length. Fractional mea-
surements are indicated on the table for finer adjust-
ments. Refer to specifications to obtain specified
height and allowable tensions. Discard the springs
that do not meet specifications.
OIL PUMP
DISASSEMBLE
(1) Remove the relief valve as follows:
(a) Remove cotter pin. Drill a 3.175 mm (1/8
inch) hole into the relief valve retainer cap and
insert a self-threading sheet metal screw.
(b) Clamp screw into a vise and while support-
ing oil pump, remove cap by tapping pump body
using a soft hammer. Discard retainer cap and
remove spring and relief valve (Fig. 81).
(2) Remove oil pump cover (Fig. 82).
(3) Remove pump outer rotor and inner rotor with
shaft (Fig. 82).
(4) Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect
carefully for damage or wear.
ASSEMBLE
(1) Install pump rotors and shaft, using new parts
as required.
(2) Position the oil pump cover onto the pump
body. Tighten cover bolts to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Install the relief valve and spring. Insert the
cotter pin.
(4) Tap on a new retainer cap.
(5) Prime oil pump before installation by filling
rotor cavity with engine oil.
Fig. 80 Testing Valve Spring for Compressed
Length
1 ± TORQUE WRENCH
2 ± VALVE SPRING TESTER
Fig. 81 Oil Pressure Relief Valve
1 ± OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY
2 ± COTTER PIN
3 ± RELIEF VALVE
4 ± RETAINER CAP
5 ± SPRING
DN5.2L ENGINE 9 - 123
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART 5.2L ENGINE
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. In.
Lbs. Lbs.
Camshaft SprocketÐBolt 68 50 Ð
Camshaft Thrust PlateÐBolts 24 Ð 210
Chain Case CoverÐBolts 41 30 Ð
Connecting Rod CapÐBolts 61 45 Ð
Main Bearing CapÐBolts 115 85 Ð
Crankshaft PulleyÐBolts 24 Ð 210
Cylinder HeadÐBolts
Step 1 68 50 Ð
Step 2 143 105 Ð
Cylinder Head CoverÐBolts 11 Ð 95
Engine Support Bracket to
BlockÐ41 30 Ð
Bolts (4WD)
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder
HeadÐ34 25 Ð
Bolts/Nuts
FlywheelÐBolts 75 55 Ð
Front InsulatorÐThrough
bolt/nut95 70 Ð
Front Insulator to Support
BracketÐ
Stud Nut (4WD) 41 30 Ð
Through Bolt/Nut 102 75 Ð
Front Insulator to BlockÐ 95 70 Ð
Bolts (2WD)
GeneratorÐMounting Bolts 41 30 Ð
Intake ManifoldÐBolts Refer to Procedure
Oil PanÐBolts 24 Ð 215
Oil PanÐDrain Plug 34 25 Ð
Oil PumpÐMounting Bolts 41 30 Ð
Oil Pump CoverÐBolts 11 Ð 95
Rear Insulator to BracketÐ
Through68 50 Ð
Bolt (2WD)
Rear Insulator to
Crossmember41 30 Ð
Support BracketÐNut (2WD)
Rear Insulator to
CrossmemberÐ68 50 Ð
Nuts (4WD)
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. In.
Lbs. Lbs.
Rear Insulator to
TransmissionÐ68 50 Ð
Bolts (4WD)
Rear Insulator BracketÐBolts 68 50 Ð
(4WD Automatic)
Rear Support Plate to
Transfer Case41 30 Ð
ÐBolts
Rocker ArmÐBolts 28 21 Ð
Spark Plugs 41 30 Ð
Starter MotorÐMounting
Bolts68 50 Ð
Thermostat HousingÐBolts 25 Ð 225
Throttle BodyÐBolts 23 Ð 200
Torque Converter Drive
PlateÐBolts31 Ð 270
Transfer Case to Insulator
Mounting204 150 Ð
PlateÐNuts
Transmission Support
BracketÐ68 50 Ð
Bolts (2WD)
Vibration DamperÐBolt 183 135 Ð
Water Pump to Timing Chain
Case41 30 Ð
CoverÐBolts
SPECIAL TOOLS
5.2L ENGINE
Oil Pressure Gauge C-3292
9 - 132 5.2L ENGINEDN
SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CONNECTING
ROD NOISE1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level. (Refer to group 0, Lubrication and
Maintenance)
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform oil pressure test. Refer to
this group for engine oil pressure test/specifications
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity. Refer to this group for correct
procedure/engine oil specifications
4. Excessive connecting
rod bearing clearanceMeasure bearings for correct clearance with plasti-gage. Repair
as necessary
5. Connecting rod
journal out of round5. Replace crankshaft or grind journals
6. Misaligned
connecting rods6. Replace bent connecting rods
MAIN BEARING
NOISE1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level. (Refer to group 0, Lubrication and
Maintenance)
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform oil pressure test. Refer to
this group for engine oil pressure test/specifications
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity. Refer to this group for correct
procedure/engine oil specifications
4. Excessive main
bearing clearance4. Measure bearings for correct clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing for excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main
journal out of round or
worn6. Grind journals or replace crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or
torque converter7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/flywheel and bolts for damage.
Tighten to correct torque
LOW OIL
PRESSURE1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure
sending unit2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace worn gears or oil pump assy
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity. Refer to this group for correct
procedure/engine oil specifications
6. Excessive bearing
clearance6. Measure bearings for correct clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve
stuck7. Remove valve to inspect, clean and reinstall
8. Oil pump suction
tube loose, broken, bent
or clogged8. Inspect suction tube and clean or replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover
warped or cracked9. Install new oil pump
9 - 144 5.9L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to the Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leak-
age Test Diagnosis chart.
INSPECTION (ENGINE OIL LEAKS IN GENERAL)
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.
(5) If the oil leak source is not positively identified
at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(7) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKSÐINSPECTION
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces. See Group 9, Engines, for
proper repair procedures of these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, Refer to Group
9, EnginesÐCrankshaft Rear Oil Seals, for proper
replacement procedures.
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 147
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292. Start engine and record pressure. Refer to
Oil Pressure in Engine Specifications for the proper
pressures.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS
There are several places where form-in-place gas-
kets are used on the engine.DO NOT use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Care
must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets.
Bead size, continuity and location are of great impor-
tance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too
much can result in spill-over. A continuous bead of
the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free
joint.
Two types of form-in-place gasket materials are
used in the engine area (Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant and Mopar Gasket Maker). Each
have different properties and cannot be used inter-
changeably.
MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, normally
black in color, is available in 3 ounce tubes. Moisture
in the air causes the sealant material to cure. This
material is normally used on flexible metal flanges.
It has a shelf life of a year and will not properly cure
if over aged. Always inspect the package for the expi-
ration date before use.
MOPAR GASKET MAKER
Mopar Gasket Maker, normally red in color, is
available in 6 cc tubes. This anaerobic type gasket
material cures in the absence of air when squeezed
between smooth machined metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. DO NOT use
on flexible metal flanges.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Parts assembled with form-in-place gaskets may be
disassembled without unusual effort. In some
instances, it may be necessary to lightly tap the part
with a mallet or other suitable tool to break the seal
between the mating surfaces. A flat gasket scraper
may also be lightly tapped into the joint but care
must be taken not to damage the mating surfaces.
Scrape or wire brush all gasket surfaces to remove
all loose material. Inspect stamped parts to ensure
gasket rails are flat. Flatten rails with a hammer on
a flat plate, if required. Gasket surfaces must be free
of oil and dirt. Make sure the old gasket material is
removed from blind attaching holes.
GASKET APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care.
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant should be
applied in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm
(0.12 inch) in diameter. All mounting holes must be
circled. For corner sealing,a3or6mm(1/8 or 1/4
inch) drop is placed in the center of the gasket con-
tact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a
shop towel. Components should be torqued in place
while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10
minutes). The use of a locating dowel is recom-
mended during assembly to prevent smearing the
material off location.
Mopar Gasket Maker should be applied sparingly
to one gasket surface. The sealant diameter should
be 1.00 mm (0.04 inch) or less. Be certain the mate-
rial surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material
can easily be wiped off. Components should be
torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing the material off location.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
It is important that the vehicle is operating to its
optimum performance level to maintain fuel economy
and the lowest emission levels. If vehicle is not oper-
ating to these standards, refer to Engine Diagnosis
outlined in this section. The following procedures can
assist in achieving the proper engine diagnosis.
(1) Test cranking amperage draw. Refer to Electri-
cal Group 8B, Cold Cranking Test.
Fig. 11 Leak-Down Tester
1 ± POINTER
2 ± WEIGHTED ARM
3 ± RAM
4 ± CUP
5 ± HANDLE
6 ± PUSH ROD
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 149
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)