Idle DODGE DURANGO 1999 1.G Owner's Guide

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to the Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leak-
age Test Diagnosis chart.
INSPECTION (ENGINE OIL LEAKS IN GENERAL)
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.
(5) If the oil leak source is not positively identified
at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(7) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKSÐINSPECTION
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces. See Group 9, Engines, for
proper repair procedures of these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, Refer to Group
9, EnginesÐCrankshaft Rear Oil Seals, for proper
replacement procedures.
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 147
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by theplunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 11).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch)
diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tap-
pet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal
position.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7) Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push
rod.
(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the
base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2
seconds.
(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require
20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with
leak-down time interval not within this specification.
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit.
9 - 148 5.9L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (4) Before removing valves, remove any burrs from
valve stem lock grooves to prevent damage to the
valve guides. Identify valves to ensure installation in
original location.
INSTALLATION
(1) Coat valve stems with lubrication oil and insert
them in cylinder head.
(2) If valves or seats are reground, check valve
stem height. If valve is too long, replace cylinder
head.
(3) Install new seals on all valve guides. Install
valve springs and valve retainers.
(4) Compress valve springs with Valve Spring
Compressor Tool MD-998772A, install locks and
release tool. If valves and/or seats are ground, mea-
sure the installed height of springs. Make sure the
measurement is taken from bottom of spring seat in
cylinder head to the bottom surface of spring
retainer. If spacers are installed, measure from the
top of spacer. If height is greater than 42.86 mm
(1-11/16 inches), install a 1.587 mm (1/16 inch)
spacer in head counterbore. This should bring spring
height back to normal 41.27 to 42.86 mm (1-5/8 to
1-11/16 inch).
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the air cleaner assembly and air inlet
hose.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover, rocker assembly
and push rods. Identify push rods to ensure installa-
tion in original location.
(3) Remove intake manifold, yoke retainer and
aligning yokes.
(4) Slide Hydraulic Tappet Remover/Installer Tool
C-4129-A through opening in cylinder head and seat
tool firmly in the head of tappet.
(5) Pull tappet out of bore with a twisting motion.
If all tappets are to be removed, identify tappets to
ensure installation in original location.
INSTALLATION
(1) If the tappet or bore in cylinder block is scored,
scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to
next oversize. Replace with oversize tappet.
(2) Lubricate tappets.
(3) Install tappets and push rods in their original
positions. Ensure that the oil feed hole in the side of
the tappet body faces up (away from the crankshaft).
(4) Install aligning yokes with ARROW toward
camshaft.
(5) Install yoke retainer. Tighten the bolts to 23
N´m (200 in. lbs.) torque. Install intake manifold.
(6) Install push rods in original positions.(7) Install rocker arm.
(8) Install cylinder head cover.
(9) Install air cleaner assembly and air inlet hose.
(10) Start and operate engine. Warm up to normal
operating temperature.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism,
engine must not be run above fast idle until all
hydraulic tappets have filled with oil and have
become quiet.
VIBRATION DAMPER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove the cooling system fan.
(3) Remove the cooling fan shroud.
(4) Remove the accessory drive belt. Refer to
COOLING SYSTEM.
(5) Remove vibration damper bolt and washer from
end of crankshaft.
(6) Position Special Tool 8513 Insert into the
crankshaft nose.
(7) Install Special Tool 1026 Three Jaw Puller onto
the vibration damper (Fig. 51).
(8) Pull vibration damper off of the crankshaft.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Thoroughly remove any contaminants
from the crankshaft nose and the vibration damper
bore. Failure to do so can cause sever damage to
the crankshaft.
(1) Position the vibration damper onto the crank-
shaft.
Fig. 51 Vibration Damper Removal
1 ± SPECIAL TOOL 8513 INSERT
2 ± SPECIAL TOOL 1026
9 - 168 5.9L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine least the 2 main bearing caps forward of the rear
bearing cap.
(3) Rotate the new upper seal into the cylinder
block being careful not to shave or cut the outer sur-
face of the seal. To assure proper installation, use the
installation tool provided with the kit. Install the
new seal with the white paint facing towards the
rear of the engine.
(4) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 77). DO NOT over apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application. Be sure the white paint faces
toward the rear of the engine.
(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than 2 times for proper engagement.
(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten ALL cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump.
(9) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to
provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig. 78).
Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan.
LOWER SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan.
(2) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap.
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap and discard
the old lower seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the rear main cap mating surfaces
including the oil pan gasket groove.
(2) Carefully install a new upper seal (refer to
Upper Seal Replacement - Crankshaft Installed pro-
cedure above).
(3) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(4) Install a new lower seal in bearing cap with
the white paint facing the rear of engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 77). DO NOT over apply sealant orallow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than 2 times for proper engagement.
(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten the cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump.
(9) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to
provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig. 78).
Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan.
ENGINE CORE OIL AND CAMSHAFT PLUGS
Engine core plugs have been pressed into the oil
galleries behind the camshaft thrust plate (Fig. 79).
This will reduce internal leakage and help maintain
higher oil pressure at idle.
REMOVAL
(1) Using a blunt tool such as a drift or a screw-
driver and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the
cup plug (Fig. 80).
(2) With the cup plug rotated, grasp firmly with
pliers or other suitable tool and remove plug (Fig.
80).
Fig. 79 Location of Cup Plugs in Oil Galleries
1 ± CUP PLUGS
9 - 180 5.9L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Valves
Face Angle 43.25É ± 43.75É
Head Diameter ± Intake 47.752 mm (1.88 in.)
Head Diameter ±
Exhaust41.072 (1.617 in.)
Length (Overall) ± Intake 126.21 ± 126.85 mm
(4.969 ± 4.994 in.)
Length (Overall) ±
Exhaust126.44 ± 127.30 mm
(4.978 ± 5.012 in.)
Lift (@ zero lash) ±
Intake10.414 mm (0.410 in.)
Lift (@ zero lash) ±
Exhaust10.592 mm (0.417 in.)
Stem Diameter ± Intake 9.449 ± 9.474 mm
(0.372 ± 0.373 in.)
Stem Diameter ± Exhaust 9.423 ± 9.449 mm
(0.371 ± 0.372 in.)
Guide Bore 9.500 ± 9.525 mm
(0.374 ± 0.375 in.)
Stem to Guide
ClearanceÐ
Intake 0.0254 ± 0.0762 mm
(0.001 ± 0..003 in.)
Stem to Guide
ClearanceÐ
Exhaust 0.0508 ± 0.1016 mm
(0.002 ± 0.004 in.)
Service Limit 0.4318 (0.017 in.)
Valve Springs
Free Length 49.962 mm (1.967 in.)
Spring Tension ± (valve
closed)378 N @ 41.66 mm
(85 lbs. @ 1.64 in.)
Spring Tension ± (valve
open)890 N @ 30.89 mm
(200 lbs. @ 1.212 in.)
Number of Coils 6.8
Installed Height 41.66 mm (1.64 in.)DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Body Diameter 22.949 ± 22.962 mm
(0.9035 ± 0.9040 in.)
Clearance (to bore) 0.0279 ± 0.0610 mm
(0.0011 ± 0.0024 in.)
Dry Lash 1.524 ± 5.334 mm
(0.060 ± 0.210 in.)
Push Rod Length 175.64 ± 176.15 mm
(6.915 ± 6.935 in.)
OIL PRESSURE
Curb Idle (Min.*) 41.4 kPa (6 psi)
3000 rpm 207 ± 552 kPa (30 ± 80
psi)
Oil Pressure Bypass
ValveÐ
Setting 62 ± 103 kPa (9 ± 15 psi)
Switch Actuating
Pressure34.5 ± 48.3 kPa (5 ± 7
psi)
* If oil pressure is zero at curb idle, DO NOT RUN
ENGINE.
OIL PUMP
Clearance over Rotors
(Max.)0.1016 mm (0.004 in.)
Cover Out of Flat (Max.) 0.0381 mm (0.0015 in.)
Inner Rotor Thickness
(Min.)20.955 mm (0.825 in.)
Outer Rotor Clearance
(Max.)0.3556 mm (0.014 in.)
Outer Rotor Diameter
(Min.)62.7126 mm (2.469 in.)
Outer Rotor Thickness
(Min.)20.955 mm (0.825 in.)
Tip Clearance between
RotorsÐ
(Max.) 0.2032 mm (0.008 in.)
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 187
SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)