Clutch DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Owners Manual

CONNECTOR NAME/NUMBER COLOR LOCATION FIG.
C315 DK GY At Driver Seat N/S
C316 BK At Passenger Seat N/S
C317 BK At Passenger Seat N/S
C319 BK Bottom Left of Left Door N/S
C320 Right Rear Door 43
C322 DK GY Left Rear of Frame 44, 46
C323 BK Left Side of Instrument Panel N/S
C327 BK Right Rear Fender 50, 51
C328 BK Left Rear Fender 50, 51, 52
Camshaft Position Sensor GY Right Front Side of Engine 3, 9
Capacitor Left Rear of Engine Compartment 4
Center High Mounted Stop
Lamp/Cargo LampBK Rear of Cab 49
Cigar Lighter Outlet NAT Rear of Cigar Lighter 32, 35, 36
Clearance Lamp No. 1 BK Left Roof 48
Clearance Lamp No. 2 BK Left-Center Roof 48
Clearance Lamp No. 3 BK Center Roof 48
Clearance Lamp No. 4 BK Right-Center Roof 48
Clearance Lamp No. 5 BK Right Roof 48
Clockspring C1 BK Steering Column 31
Clockspring C2 YL Steering Column 31
Clockspring C3 BK Steering Column N/S
Clockspring C4 BK Steering Column N/S
Clutch Interlock Brake Switch BK At Clutch Pedal 22, 24
Coil On Plug No.1 BK Left Top Side of Intake Manifold 6
Coil On Plug No.2 BK Right Top Side of Intake Manifold 3
Coil On Plug No.3 BK Left Top Side of Intake Manifold 6
Coil On Plug No.4 BK Right Top Side of Intake Manifold 3
Coil On Plug No.5 BK Left Top Side of Intake Manifold 5, 6
Coil On Plug No.6 BK Right Top Side of Intake Manifold 3
Coil On Plug No.7 BK Left Top Side of Intake Manifold 6
Coil On Plug No.8 BK Right Top Side of Intake Manifold 3
Compass/Mini-Trip Computer BK In Overhead Console N/S
Condenser Fan BK Near Condenser 23, 24
Controller Anti-Lock Brake C1 BK Left Fender Side Shield 22, 24, 25
Controller Anti-Lock Brake C2
(ABS)BK Left Fender Side Shield 22, 25
Crankshaft Position Sensor BK Right Rear of Engine Block 3, 9
Cylinder Lock Switch-Driver
(Premium)BK In Left Front Door 41
Cylinder Lock Switch-Passenger
(Premium)LT GY In Right Front Door N/S
Data Link Connector BK Left Bottom of Instrument Panel 35, 38
DR8W-91 CONNECTOR/GROUND/SPLICE LOCATION 8W - 91 - 3
CONNECTOR/GROUND/SPLICE LOCATION (Continued)

(5) Install fan blade assembly (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install radiator upper shroud and tighten fas-
teners to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.).
(7) Connect electrical connector for shroud fan.
(8) Install radiator upper hose.
(9) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
(10) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect negative cable to battery.
STRUCTURAL COVER
DESCRIPTION
The structural dust cover is made of die cast alu-
minum and joins the lower half of the transmission
bell housing to the engine bedplate.
OPERATION
The structural cover provides additional power-
train stiffness and reduces noise and vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove the left hand exhaust pipe from
exhaust manifold.
(3) Loosen the right hand exhaust manifold-to-ex-
haust pipe retaining bolts.
(4) Remove the eight bolts retaining structural
cover (Fig. 64) in the sequence shown.
(5) Pivot the exhaust pipe downward and remove
the structural cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as
described in the following steps. Failure to do so
will cause severe damage to the cover.
(1) Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
(2) Install all four bolts retaining the cover-to-en-
gine. DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time.
(3) Install the four cover-to-transmission bolts. Do
NOT tighten at this time.
CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly
against both the engine and the transmission bell
housing during tightening sequence. Failure to do
so may cause damage to the cover.(4) Starting with the two rear cover-to-engine
bolts, tighten bolts (1) (Fig. 65) to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.),
then tighten bolts (2) (Fig. 65) and (3) to 54 N´m ( 40
ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
(5) Install the exhaust pipe on left hand exhaust
manifold.
(6) Tighten exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe
retaining bolts to 20±26 N´m (15±20 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 64 Structural Cover
1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
Fig. 65 Structural Cover
1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 57
VIBRATION DAMPER (Continued)

FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL
2WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising
engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the
fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
(2) Remove the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the engine oil filter.
(5) Remove the oil drain trough.
(6)
Support the engine with a suitable jack and a
block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
(7) Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
(8) Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine
mounts to the front axle.
(9) Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle
to the left engine bracket.
(10) Lower the front axle.
(11) Remove the through bolts(12) Raise the engine far enough to be able to
remove the left and right engine mounts.
(13) Remove the (8) mount to engine attaching
bolts
(14) Remove the engine mounts.
4WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising
engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the
fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
(2) Remove the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the skid plate.
(5) Remove the front crossmember.
(6) Remove the engine oil filter.
(7) Remove the oil drain trough.
(8) Support the engine with a suitable jack and a
block of wood across the full width of the engine oil
pan.
(9) Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
(10) Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine
mounts to the front axle (Fig. 66).
Fig. 66 ENGINE INSULATOR MOUNTS 4X4
1 - RH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
2 - NUT
3 - PINION SUPPORT MOUNT
4 - LH INSULATOR MOUNT5 - LH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
6 - FRONT AXLE
7 - NUT
8 - RH INSULATOR MOUNT
9 - 58 ENGINE - 3.7LDR

(11) Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle
to the left engine bracket.
(12) Lower the front axle.
(13) Remove the (6) through bolts
(14) Raise the engine far enough to be able to
remove the left (Fig. 67) and right (Fig. 68) engine
mounts.
(15) Remove the engine mounts.
INSTALLATION
2WD
NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine
bracket to front axle bolts, apply MoparTLock and
Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.
(1) Install the right and left side engine mounts to
the engine block with (8) bolts. Torque bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(2) Insert the (2) through bolts into the right and
left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two
nuts onto the through bolts.
(3) Lower the engine until the through bolts rest
onto the slots in the frame brackets.(4) Tighten the through bolt nuts to 94 N´m (70 ft.
lbs.).
(5) Install the oil drain trough.
(6) Install the engine oil filter.
(7) Lower the vehicle.
(8) Install the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(9) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
4WD
NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine
bracket to front axle bolts, apply MoparTLock and
Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.
(1) Install the right and left side engine mounts to
the front axle. Torque nuts to 94 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(2) Raise the front axle into the frame and install
the left and right side through bolts. Torque nuts to
94 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Insert the two upper through bolts into the
right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble
the two nuts onto the through bolts.
(4) Lower the engine until the left and right side
engine brackets rest on the through bolts, and the
lower engine bracket through holes align with the
engine mounts, and the left engine bracket holes
align with the front axle slots (Fig. 69).
(5) Loose assemble the (3) bolts that attach the
front axle to the left engine bracket.
Fig. 67 ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET
1 - BOLT
2 - ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET
3 - BOLT
Fig. 68 ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET RH
1 - BOLT
2 - ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 59
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)

(6) Loose assemble the lower through bolts.
(7) Torque the nuts for the (4) through bolts to 101
N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(8) Torque the (3) bolts that attach the front axle
to the left engine bracket to 101 N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the oil drain trough.
(10) Install the engine oil filter.(11) Install the front crossmember.
(12) Install the skid plate.
(13) Lower the vehicle.
(14) Install the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(15) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Fig. 69 ENGINE INSULATOR MOUNTS 4X4
1 - RH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
2 - NUT
3 - PINION SUPPORT MOUNT
4 - LH INSULATOR MOUNT5 - LH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
6 - FRONT AXLE
7 - NUT
8 - RH INSULATOR MOUNT
9 - 60 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not posi-
tively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
9 - 64 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 72)and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb Idle - 25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpm - 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. Thefollowing steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
Fig. 72 OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT -TYPICAL
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 65
LUBRICATION (Continued)

IDLER SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the primary and secondary timing
chains and sprockets. Refer to procedure in this sec-
tion.
NOTE: To remove the idler shaft, it is necessary to
tap threads into the shaft, to install the removal
tool.
(2) Using a 12 mm X 1.75 tap, cut threads in the
idler shaft center bore.
(3) Cover the radiator core with a suitable cover.
CAUTION: Use care when removing the idler shaft,
Do not strike the radiator cooling fins with the slide
hammer.
(4) Using Special Tool 8517 Slide Hammer, remove
the idler shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean the idler shaft bore.
(2) Position the idler shaft in the bore.
NOTE: The two lubrication holes in the idler shaft
do not require any special alignment.
NOTE: Before using the retaining bolt to install the
idler shaft, coat the threads and the pilot on the
idler shaft, with clean engine oil.
(3) Using the primary idler sprocket retaining bolt
and washer, carefully draw the idler shaft into the
bore until fully seated.
(4) Coat the idler shaft with clean engine oil.
(5) Install the timing chains and sprockets. Refer
to procedure in this section.
TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove electric cooling fan and fan shroud
assembly.
(4) Remove fan and fan drive assembly (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect both heater hoses at timing cover.
(6) Disconnect lower radiator hose at engine.(7) Remove accessory drive belt tensioner assembly
(Fig. 103).
(8) Remove crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(9) Remove the generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/CHARGING/GENERATOR - REMOVAL).
(10) Remove A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: The 3.7L engine uses an anerobic sealer
instead of a gasket to seal the front cover to the
engine block, from the factory. For service, MoparT
Engine RTV sealant must be substituted.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the water
pump for timing cover removal.
(11) Remove the bolts holding the timing cover to
engine block (Fig. 104).
(12) Remove the timing cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use oil based liquids to clean tim-
ing cover or block surfaces. Use only rubbing alco-
hol, along with plastic or wooden scrapers. Use no
wire brushes or abrasive wheels or metal scrapers,
or damage to surfaces could result.
Fig. 103 ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TENSIONER
1 - TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
2 - FASTENER TENSIONER TO FRONT COVER
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 81

(1) Clean timing chain cover and block surface
using rubbing alcohol.
CAUTION: The 3.7L uses a special anerobic sealer
instead of a gasket to seal the timing cover to the
engine block, from the factory. For service repairs,
MoparTEngine RTV must be used as a substitute.
(2) Inspect the water passage o-rings for any dam-
age, and replace as necessary.
(3) Apply MopartEngine RTV sealer to front cover
following the path below usinga3to4mmthick
bead (Fig. 105).
(4) Install cover. Tighten fasteners in sequence as
shown in to 58 N´m (43 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 106).
(5) Install crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install the A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/CHARGING/GENERATOR - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install accessory drive belt tensioner assembly
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/BELT
TENSIONERS - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install radiator upper and lower hoses.
(10) Install both heater hoses.
(11) Install electric fan shroud and viscous fan
drive assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN
DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - INSTALLATION).
(12) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(13) Connect the battery negative cable.
Fig. 104 TIMING CHAIN COVER FASTENERS
Fig. 105 TIMING COVER SEALANT
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - WATER PASSAGE ORING
3 - MOPARTENGINE RTV SEALER
Fig. 106 TIMING CHAIN COVER FASTENERS
9 - 82 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) (Continued)

(19) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(20) Disconnect tube from both the left and right
side crankcase breathers (Fig. 2). Remove breathers
(21) Discharge A/C system (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/REFRIG-
ERANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(22) Remove A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - REMOVAL).
(23) Remove shroud, fan assembly (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL) and accessory drive belt
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE
BELTS - REMOVAL).
(24) Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines at the
radiator.
(25) Disconnect radiator upper and lower hoses.
(26) Remove radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL), A/C condenser
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING/A/C CONDENSER - REMOVAL) and
transmission oil cooler.
(27) Remove generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
CHARGING/GENERATOR - REMOVAL).
(28) Disconnect the two heater hoses from the tim-
ing chain cover and heater core.
(29) Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes
from the intake manifold.
(30) Disconnect engine harness at the following
points :
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor (Fig. 3)
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs(31) Disconnect the vacuum lines at the throttle
body and intake manifold.
(32) Release fuel rail pressure (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE) then disconnect the fuel supply quick connect
fitting at the fuel rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FITTING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(33) Remove power steering pump and position out
of the way.
(34) Install Special Tools 8400 Lifting Studs, into
the cylinder heads.
(35) Install Engine Lifting Fixture Special Tool
8347 (Fig. 4) following these steps.
²Holding the lifting fixture at a slight angle, slide
the large bore in the front plate over the hex portion
of the lifting stud.
²Position the two remaining fixture arms onto
the two Special Tools 8400 Lifting Studs, in the cyl-
inder heads.
²Pull foward and upward on the lifting fixture so
that the lifting stud rest in the slotted area below the
large bore.
Fig. 2 Crankcase Breather Connection Points
1 - CRANKCASE BREATHERS
Fig. 3 Throttle Body Connection Points
1 - THROTTLE BODY
2 - TPS
3 - IAC MOTOR
4 - IAT SENSOR
5 - MOUNTING SCREWS
9 - 96 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)