y case DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak or
fluid contamination. The leak point could be at a
brake line, fitting, hose, or caliper/wheel cylinder. If
leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around
the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action isto inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve or a
vacuum hose could also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers were overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
NOTE: Bleed procedure should be in this order (1)
Right rear (2) Left rear (3) Right front (4) Left front.(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
(5) Before moving the vehicle verify the pedal is
firm and not mushy.
(6) Top off the brake fluid and install the reservoir
cap.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system.
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKES
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT C-4340
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT
C-3716-A
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Partial engagement of clutch disc.
One side of disc is worn and the
other side is glazed and lightly
worn.1. Clutch pressure plate position
incorrect.1. Replace clutch disc and cover.
2. Clutch cover, spring, or release
fingers bent or distorted.2. Replace clutch disc and cover.
3. Clutch disc damaged or
distorted.2. Replace clutch disc.
4. Clutch misalignment. 4. Check alignment and runout of
flywheel, disc, pressure plate, andùr
clutch housing. Correct as
necessary.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Slave Cylinder Nuts 23 17 -
Clutch Master Cylinder
Nuts28 21 -
Pressure Plate Bolts - V6
&V850 37 -
Pressure Plate Bolts - V10 30 22.5 -
Pressure Plate Bolts -
Diesel30 22.5 -
Release Bearing Pivot 23 17 -
Flywheel Bolts 95 70 -
CLUTCH DISC
REMOVAL
(1) Support engine with wood block and adjustable
jack stand, to prevent strain on engine mounts.
(2) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
(3) If pressure plate will be reused, mark the posi-
tion on flywheel with paint or scriber (Fig. 1). Also
note location marks on the pressure next to the bolt
holes. The mark will be a L or a circle with an X in
it.
(4) Insert clutch alignment tool through clutch disc
and into pilot bushing, to hold disc in place while
removing bolts.
(5) Loosen pressure plate bolts evenly, a few
threads at a time and in a diagonal pattern to pre-
vent warping the plate.
(6) Remove bolts completely and remove pressure
plate, disc and alignment tool.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check runout and free operation of new clutch
disc.
(2) Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing with a NLGI
- 2 rated grease.
(3) Install clutch alignment tool in clutch disc hub
with the raised side of hub is facing away from the
flywheel.
NOTE: Flywheel side is imprinted on the disc face.
(4) Install alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi-
tion disc on the flywheel.
(5) Position pressure plate over disc and onto the
flywheel (Fig. 2).
(6) Align and hold pressure plate in position and
install bolts finger tight.
(7) Tighten bolts evenly and a few threads at a
time in a diagonal pattern.
CAUTION: Bolts must be tightened evenly and to
specified torque to avoid warping pressure plate
cover.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 5
CLUTCH (Continued)

(11) Wipe pilot bearing surface clean.
(12) Install release lever and bearing in clutch
housing. Verify spring clips that retain fork on pivot
ball and release bearing on fork are installed prop-
erly (Fig. 5).
NOTE: If release lever is installed correctly, the
lever part number will be toward the bottom of the
transmission and right side up. There is also a
stamped ªIº in the lever which goes to the pivot ball
side of the transmission.
(13) Install transmission and transfer case if
equipped.
(14) Check fluid level in clutch master cylinder.
CLUTCH HOUSING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
The clutch housing maintains alignment between
the crankshaft and transmission input shaft. Mis-
alignment can cause clutch noise, hard shifting,
incomplete release and chatter. Also premature pilot
bearing, cover release fingers and clutch disc wear.
In severe cases, it can cause premature wear of the
transmission input shaft and front bearing.
NOTE: Only the NV4500 clutch housing can be
checked using the following bore and face runout
procedures. The NV5600 clutch housing is a inte-
gral part of the transmission and can only be
checked off the vehicle.
CLUTCH HOUSING BORE RUNOUT
CAUTION: On diesel engines if housing bore runout
exceeds 0.015 inch, the clutch housing/transmis-
sion adapter plate must be replaced. On gas
engines if housing bore runout exceeds 0.053 in.
the clutch housing must be replaced.
NOTE: Offset dowels are available for gas engines
to correct housing bore runout. They are not avail-
able for diesel engines.
(1) Remove the clutch housing.
(2) Remove the clutch cover and disc.
(3) Replace one of the flywheel bolts with an
appropriate size threaded rod that is 10 in. (25.4 cm)
long (Fig. 6). The rod will be used to mount the dial
indicator.
(4) Remove release fork from the clutch housing.
(5) Install clutch housing. Tighten the housing
bolts nearest the alignment dowels first.
(6) Mount dial indicator on the threaded rod and
position indicator plunger on the clutch housing bore
(Fig. 7).
(7) Rotate crankshaft until indicator plunger is at
the topof the housing bore. Zero the indicator at this
point.
(8) Rotate crankshaft and record indicator read-
ings at eight points (45É apart) around the bore (Fig.
8). Take measurement at least twice for accuracy.
(9) Subtract each reading from the one 180É oppo-
site to determine runout and direction. Bore runout
example (Fig. 8):
²0.000 ± (±0.007) = 0.007 in.
²+0.002 ± (±0.010) = 0.012 in.
²+0.004 ± (±0.005) = 0.009 in.
²±0.001 ± (+0.001) = ±0.002 in.
Fig. 5 FORK, BEARING AND SPRING CLIPS
1 - FORK
2 - SPRING CLIP
3 - BEARING
4 - SPRING CLIP
Fig. 6 DIAL INDICATOR MOUNTING STUD
1 - 7/16 - 20 THREAD
2 - NUT
3 - STUD OR THREADED ROD
4 - 10 INCHES LONG
DRCLUTCH 6 - 7
CLUTCH DISC (Continued)

To correct this example (Fig. 11) the shims needed
between the clutch housing and transmission are:
²0.009 in. at the 0.000 corner
²0.012 in. at the ±0.003 corner
²0.013 in. at the ±0.004 corner
After installing the clutch assembly and housing,
tighten the housing bolts nearest the alignment dow-
els first.
NOTE: Shims can be made from shim stock or sim-
ilar materials of the required thickness (Fig. 12).
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case (Fig.
13).
(2) Remove starter from clutch housing.
(3) Remove structural dust cover bolts from clutch
housing.
CAUTION: Do not remove structural dust cover
from enigne block. If cover is removed clutch hous-
ing and cover must be aligned with the engine.(4) Remove clutch housing bolts and remove hous-
ing from the engine.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean housing mounting surface of engine
block with wax and grease remover.
(2) Verify that clutch housing alignment dowels
are in good condition and properly seated.
(3) Transfer slave cylinder, release fork and boot,
fork pivot stud and wire/hose brackets to new hous-
ing.
(4) Install structural dust cover if removed (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL
COVER - INSTALLATION).
(5) Align and install clutch housing on engine (Fig.
14). Tighten housing bolts across the top of the hous-
ing first and to the following torque values:
²ªAº bolts 1/4in. diameter - 4.5 N´m (40 in.lb.)
²ªAº bolts 3/8in. diameter - 40 N´m (30 ft.lb.)
²ªAº bolts 7/16in. diameter - 68 N´m (50 ft.lb.)
²ªBº bolts for 5.7L 5.9L TD/8.0L engines - 47.5
N´m (40 ft.lb.)
²ªCº bolts for 5.7L engine - 68 N´m (50 ft.lb.)
²ªCº bolts for 5.9L TD engine - 47.5 N´m (35
ft.lb.)
²ªCº bolts for 8.0L engine - 74.5 N´m (55 ft.lb.)
(6) Install starter to clutch housing.
(7) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
(2) Remove spring clip.
Fig. 11 MEASUREMENT POINTS AND READINGS
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING FACE CIRCLE (AT RIM OF BORE)
Fig. 12 ALIGNMENT SHIMS
1 - CUT/DRILL BOLT HOLE TO SIZE
2 - SHIM STOCK
3 - MAKE SHIM 1-INCH DIAMETER
Fig. 13 TRANSMISSION/CLUTCH HOUSING-NV4500
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING
2 - TRANSMISSION
DRCLUTCH 6 - 9
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

(3) Disconnect release bearing from release fork
and remove bearing (Fig. 15).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect bearing slide surface on transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur-
face is scored, worn, or cracked.
(2) Inspect release lever and pivot stud. Be sure
stud is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is
not distorted or worn. Replace fork spring clips if
bent or damaged.
(3) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, lever pivot ball stud, and release lever
pivot surface with Moparthigh temperature bearing
grease.
(4) Install release fork and release bearing (Fig.
16). Be sure fork and bearing are properly secured by
spring clips. Also be sure that the release fork is
installed properly. The rear side of the release lever
has one end with a raised area. This raised area goes
toward the slave cylinder side of the transmission.
(5) Install clutch housing, if removed.
(6) Install transmission and transfer case.(7) Check clutch master cylinder fluid level.
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Fig. 14 CLUTCH HOUSING - NV4500
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - CLUTCH DISC/PRESSURE PLATE
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING
4 - DUST COVER
Fig. 15 CLUTCH RELEASE COMPONENTS
1 - CONED WASHER
2 - CLUTCH HOUSING
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING AND SLEEVE
5 - PIVOT 23 N´m (200 IN. LBS.)
6 - SPRING CLIP
Fig. 16 Clutch Release Fork And
1 - PIVOT BALL
2 - FORK
3 - SLAVE CYLINDER OPENING
4 - BEARING
6 - 10 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch.
(3) Remove flywheel bolts and remove flywheel.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2)
Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install flywheel on the crank shaft.
(2) Install flywheel bolts and tighten to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install clutch.
(4) Install transmission.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove clutch disc.
(3) Use a suitable blind hole puller to remove pilot
bearing.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 11
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

INSTALLATION
3.7L V-6
(1) Apply thread sealant to sensor threads.
(2) Install sensor to engine.
(3) Tighten sensor to 11 N´m (8 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect electrical connector to sensor.
(5) Replace any lost engine coolant. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
4.7L V-8
(1) Apply thread sealant to sensor threads.
(2) Install sensor to engine.
(3) Tighten sensor to 11 N´m (8 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect electrical connector to sensor.
(5) Replace any lost engine coolant. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5.7L V-8
(1) Apply thread sealant to sensor threads.
(2) Install sensor to engine.
(3) Tighten sensor to 11 N´m (8 ft. lbs.) torque.(4) Connect electrical connector to sensor.
(5) Replace any lost engine coolant. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5.9L Diesel
(1) Install sensor to engine.
(2) Tighten sensor to 18 N´m (13 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Connect electrical connector to sensor.
(4) Replace any lost engine coolant. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
8.0L V-10
(1) Apply thread sealant to sensor threads.
(2) Install sensor to engine.
(3) Tighten sensor to 11 N´m (8 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect electrical connector to sensor.
(5) Replace any lost engine coolant. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT- 5.7L
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not operate an engine without a ther-
mostat, except for servicing or testing.
The thermostat on the 5.7L gas powered engine is
located behind the thermostat housing at the front of
the intake manifold (Fig. 16).
The thermostat is a wax pellet driven, reverse pop-
pet choke type.
Coolant leakage into the pellet container will cause
the thermostat to fail in the open position. Thermo-
stats very rarely stick. Do not attempt to free a ther-
mostat with a prying device.
The same thermostat is used for winter and sum-
mer seasons. An engine should not be operated with-
out a thermostat, except for servicing or testing.
Operating without a thermostat causes longer engine
warmup time, unreliable warmup performance,
increased exhaust emissions and crankcase condensa-
tion that can result in sludge formation.
OPERATION
The wax pellet is located in a sealed container at
the spring end of the thermostat. When heated, the
pellet expands, overcoming closing spring tension
and water pump pressure to force the valve to open.
Fig. 15 ECT SENSOR - 8.0L V-10
1 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR (FOR PCM)
2 - HEATER SUPPLY FITTING
3 - BOLTS (6)
4 - HOUSING WITH INTEGRAL SEAL
5 - THERMOSTAT
6 - RUBBER LIP SEAL
7 - TEMP. GAUGE SENDING UNIT
DRENGINE 7 - 41
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR (Continued)

(7) Air Conditioned vehicles; Install the generator.
Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install the support bracket (generator mount-
ing bracket-to-intake manifold). (Fig. 17). Tighten the
bolts to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the accessory drive belt (Fig. 18)(Refer
to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE
BELTS - INSTALLATION).
(10) Fill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect battery negative cable.
(12) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT - 3.7L/4.7L
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not operate the engine without a ther-
mostat, except for servicing or testing.
A pellet-type thermostat controls the operating
temperature of the engine by controlling the amount
of coolant flow to the radiator. On all engines the
thermostat is closed below 195ÉF (90ÉC). Above this
temperature, coolant is allowed to flow to the radia-
tor. This provides quick engine warm up and overall
temperature control. On the 3.7L4.7L engine the
thermostat is designed to block the flow of the cool-
ant bypass journal by 50% instead of completely
blocking the flow. This design controls coolant tem-
perature more accurately (Fig. 23).The same thermostat is used for winter and sum-
mer seasons. An engine should not be operated with-
out a thermostat, except for servicing or testing.
Operating without a thermostat causes other prob-
lems. These are: longer engine warmup time, unreli-
able warmup performance, increased exhaust
emissions and crankcase condensation. This conden-
sation can result in sludge formation.
OPERATION
The wax pellet is located in a sealed container at
the spring end of the thermostat. When heated, the
pellet expands, overcoming closing spring tension
and water pump pressure to force the valve to open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐTHERMOSTAT
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
Allgasoline powered modelsare equipped with
On-Board Diagnostics for certain cooling system com-
ponents. Refer to On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) in the
Diagnosis section of this group for additional infor-
mation. If the powertrain control module (PCM)
detects low engine coolant temperature, it will record
a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in the PCM mem-
ory. Do not change a thermostat for lack of heat as
Fig. 21 Thermostat PositionÐ5.9L EnginesFig. 22 Belt Routing ± 5.9L Engines
1 - IDLER PULLEY
2 - GENERATOR PULLEY
3 - A/C COMPRESSOR PULLEY
4 - IF W/OUT A/C
5 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
6 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
7 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
8 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER
7 - 44 ENGINEDR
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT- 5.7L (Continued)

(7) Start the engine and check for coolant leaks.
Run engine to check for proper thermostat operation.
ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT - 8.0L
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not operate an engine without a ther-
mostat, except for servicing or testing.
The thermostat on all gas powered engines is
located beneath the thermostat housing at the front
of the intake manifold (Fig. 27).
The thermostat is a moveable sleeve type.
Coolant leakage into the pellet container will cause
the thermostat to fail in the open position. Thermo-
stats very rarely stick. Do not attempt to free a ther-
mostat with a prying device.
The same thermostat is used for winter and sum-
mer seasons. An engine should not be operated with-
out a thermostat, except for servicing or testing.
Operating without a thermostat causes longer engine
warmup time, unreliable warmup performance,
increased exhaust emissions and crankcase condensa-
tion that can result in sludge formation.
OPERATION
The wax pellet is located in a sealed container at
the spring end of the thermostat. When heated, the
pellet expands, overcoming closing spring tension
and water pump pressure to force the valve to open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - THERMOSTAT
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
Allgasoline powered modelsare equipped with
On-Board Diagnostics for certain cooling system com-
ponents. Refer to On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) in the
Diagnosis section of this group for additional infor-
mation. If the powertrain control module (PCM)
detects low engine coolant temperature, it will record
a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in the PCM mem-
ory. Do not change a thermostat for lack of heat as
indicated by the instrument panel gauge or by poor
heater performance unless a DTC is present. Refer to
the Diagnosis section of this group for other probable
causes. For other DTC numbers, (Refer to 25 - EMIS-
SIONS CONTROL - DESCRIPTION).
Fig. 26 Thermostat Removal/Installation
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - CYLINDER HEAD
3 - THERMOSTAT
Fig. 27 Thermostat - 8.0L V-10 Engine
1 - COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR (FOR PCM)
2 - HEATER SUPPLY FITTING
3 - BOLTS (6)
4 - HOUSING WITH INTEGRAL SEAL
5 - THERMOSTAT
6 - RUBBER LIP SEAL
7 - TEMP. GAUGE SENDING UNIT
7 - 48 ENGINEDR
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)