air suspension DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

GROUP TAB LOCATOR
Introduction
0Lubrication & Maintenance
2Suspension
3Differential & Driveline
5Brakes
6Clutch
7Cooling
8AAudio/Video
8BChime/Buzzer
8EElectronic Control Modules
8FEngine Systems
8GHeated Systems
8HHorn
8IIgnition Control
8JInstrument Cluster
8LLamps
8MMessage Systems
8NPower Systems
8ORestraints
8PSpeed Control
8QVehicle Theft Security
8RWipers/Washers
8TNavigation/Telecommunication
8WWiring
9Engine
11Exhaust System
13Frame & Bumpers
14Fuel System
19Steering
21Transmission and Transfer Case
22Tires/Wheels
23Body
24Heating & Air Conditioning
25Emissions Control
Component and System Index
Service Manual Comment Forms (Rear of Manual)

OPERATION
²CASTERis the forward or rearward tilt of the
steering knuckle from vertical. Tilting the top of the
knuckle forward provides less positive caster. Tilting
the top of the knuckle rearward provides more posi-
tive caster. Positive caster promotes directional sta-
bility. This angle enables the front wheels to return
to a straight ahead position after turns (Fig. 1)
²CAMBERis the inward or outward tilt of the
wheel relative to the center of the vehicle. Tilting the
top of the wheel inward provides negative camber.
Tilting the top of the wheel outward provides positive
camber. Incorrect camber will cause wear on the
inside or outside edge of the tire (Fig. 1)
²TOEis the difference between the leading inside
edges and trailing inside edges of the front tires.
Wheel toe position out of specification cause's unsta-
ble steering, uneven tire wear and steering wheel off-
center. The wheel toe position is thefinalfront
wheel alignment adjustment (Fig. 1)
²THRUST ANGLEis the angle of the rear axle
relative to the centerline of the vehicle. Incorrect
thrust angle can cause off-center steering and exces-sive tire wear. This angle is not adjustable, damaged
component(s) must be replaced to correct the thrust
angle (Fig. 1)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRE-ALIGNMENT
INSPECTION
Before starting wheel alignment, the following
inspection and necessary corrections must be com-
pleted. Refer to Suspension and Steering System
Diagnosis Chart below for additional information.
(1) Inspect tires for size, air pressure and tread
wear.
(2) Inspect front wheel bearings for wear.
(3) Inspect front wheels for excessive radial or lat-
eral runout and balance.
(4) Inspect ball studs, linkage pivot points and
steering gear for looseness, roughness or binding.
(5) Inspect suspension components for wear and
noise.
(6) On 4x4 vehicles check suspension height (LD
only).
(7) Road test the vehicle.
SUSPENSION AND STEERING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
FRONT END NOISE 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.3. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
EXCESSIVE PLAY IN
STEERING1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Loose or worn steering gear. 3. Replace steering gear.
FRONT WHEELS SHIMMY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Tires worn or out of balance. 3. Replace or balance tires.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
VEHICLE INSTABILITY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
2 - 2 WHEEL ALIGNMENTDR
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE STEERING
EFFORT1. Loose or worn steering gear. 1. Replace steering gear.
2. Column coupler binding. 2. Replace coupler.
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
VEHICLE PULLS TO ONE
SIDE1. Tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Tire. 2. Criss-Cross Front Tires.
3. Alignment. 3. Align vehicle to specifications.
4. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.4. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
5. Radial tire lead. 5. Rotate or replace tire as necessary.
6. Brake pull. 6. Repair brake as necessary.
7. Weak or broken spring. 7. Replace spring.
8. Ride height (LD) 4WD only. 8. Measure and adjust ride height. (LD
only)
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEIGHT
MEASUREMENT - 4WD (LD)
The vehicle suspension height MUST be measured
and adjusted before performing wheel alignment pro-
cedure. Also when front suspension components have
been replaced. This measure must be performed with
the vehicle supporting it's own weight and taken on
both sides of the vehicle.
(1) Inspect tires and set to correct pressure.
(2) Jounce the front of the vehicle.
(3) Measure and record the height from the ground
at the centerline of the rear lower control arm bolt
front tip (Fig. 2).
(4) Measure and record the height from the ground
at the front spindle centerline (Static Load Radius)
(Fig. 2).
(5) Subtract the first measurement from the sec-
ond measurement. The difference between the two
measurement should be 58 mm (2.3 inches) 3mm
(0.12 inches).
(6) If value is greater than 61 mm (2.4 inches),
tighten the torsion bar bolt until the specification is
achieved (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL
ALIGNMENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) If value is less than 55 mm (2.1 inches), loosen
the torsion bar bolt until the specification is achieve-
d,(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Repeat the previous steps until the ride height
is within specifications.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEIGHT
ADJUSTMENT - 4WD (LD)
The vehicle suspension height MUST be measured
and adjusted before performing wheel alignment pro-
cedure (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGN-
MENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE). Also when
front suspension components have been replaced.
This measurement must be performed with the vehi-
cle supporting it's own weight and taken on both
sides of the vehicle.
Fig. 2 HEIGHT MESUREMENT
1 - HEIGHT FROM THE GROUND AT THE FRONT SPINDLE
CENTERLINE (STATIC LOAD RADIUS)
2 - CENTERLINE OF THE REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLT
FRONT TIP
3 - GROUND LINE
DRWHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 3
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

SHOCK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The shock absorber bushings do not require any
type of lubrication. Do not attempt to stop bushing
noise by lubricating them. Grease and mineral oil-
base lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 4X2
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Support the lower control arm outboard end.
(3) Remove the upper shock absorber nut, retainer
and grommet.
(4) Remove the lower nuts and remove the shock
absorber.
REMOVAL - 4X4
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Support the lower control arm outboard end.
(4) Remove the upper shock nut and with the insu-
lator and retainer (Fig. 27).
(5) Remove the lower shock bolt (Fig. 27).
(6) Remove the shock
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 4X2
NOTE: Upper shock nut must be replaced or use
Mopar Lock 'N Seal or LoctiteT242 on existing nut.(1) Install the lower retainer and grommet on the
shock absorber stud. Insert the shock absorber
through the frame bracket hole.
(2) Install the lower nuts and tighten the nuts to
28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the upper grommet, retainer and new
nut or use Mopar Lock 'N Seal or Loctitet242 on
existing nut, on the shock absorber stud. Tighten nut
to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(4) Remove the support from the lower control arm
outboard end.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - 4X4
(1) Install the upper part of the shock into the
frame bracket with the insulators and retainers (Fig.
27).
(2) Install the nut and Tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft.
lbs.).
(3) Install the lower part of the shock into the
lower control arm and Tighten the bolt to 135 N´m
(100 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 27).
(4) Remove the support from the lower control arm
outboard end.
(5) Install the tire and wheel assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(6) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
STABILIZER BAR
DESCRIPTION
The bar extends across the front underside of the
chassis and connects to the frame crossmember. The
Fig. 27 SHOCK 4X4
1 - INSULATOR & RETAINER
2 - NUT
3 - SHOCK ABSORBER
4 - BOLT
2 - 24 FRONT - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSIONDR

LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Paint or scribe alignment marks on the cam
adjusters and suspension arm for installation refer-
ence (Fig. 22).
(3) Remove the lower suspension arm nut, cam
and cam bolt from the axle.
(4) Remove the nut and bolt from the frame rail
bracket and remove the lower suspension arm (Fig.
22).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower suspension arm at the axle
bracket and frame rail bracket.
(2) Install the rear bolt and finger tighten the nut.
(3) Install the cam bolt, cam and nut in the axle
and align the reference marks.
(4) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(5) Tighten cam nut at the axle bracket to 217
N´m (160 ft. lbs.). Tighten rear nut at the frame
bracket to 217 N´m (160 ft. lbs.).
SHOCK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The shock absorber bushings do not require any
type of lubrication. Do not attempt to stop bushing
noise by lubricating them. Grease and mineral oil-
base lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the nut, retainer and grommet from
the upper stud in the engine compartment.
(2) Remove three nuts from the upper shock
bracket (Fig. 23).
(3) Remove the lower bolt from the axle bracket
(Fig. 24). Remove the shock absorber from engine
compartment.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower retainer and grommet on the
upper stud. Insert the shock absorber through the
spring from engine compartment.
(2) Install the lower bolt and tighten to 135 N´m
(100 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the upper shock bracket and three nuts.
Tighten nuts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install upper grommet and retainer. Install
upper shock nut and tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs).
Fig. 22 Adjustment Cam
1 - ADJUSTMENT CAM
2 - AXLE BRACKET
3 - BRACKET REINFORCEMENT
4 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
2 - 38 FRONT - LINK/COILDR

REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR
DESCRIPTION.........................41
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK.............................41
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................42
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................43
JOUNCE BUMPER
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................43
AUXILIARY SPRING BUMPERS (3500)
REMOVAL.............................43INSTALLATION.........................43
SHOCK
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................43
SPRING
DESCRIPTION.........................44
OPERATION...........................44
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................44
SPRING TIP INSERTS
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................45
REAR
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension is comprised of:
²Shock Absorbers
²Jounce Bumpers
²Leaf Springs
²Auxiliary Leaf Spring (3500 series)
²Auxiliary Spring Bumpers (3500 series)
²Drive Axle
CAUTION: A vehicle should always be loaded so
the vehicle weight center-line is located immedi-
ately forward of the rear axle. Correct vehicle load-
ing provides proper front tire-to-road contact. This
results in maximum vehicle handling stability and
safety. Incorrect vehicle weight distribution can
cause excessive tire tread wear, spring fatigue or
failure, and erratic steering.
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings (except stabilizer bar) should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is
important to have the springs supporting the weight
of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The spring eye and shock absorber bushings do not
require any type of lubrication. Do not attempt to
stop spring bushing noise by lubricating them.
Grease and mineral oil-base lubricants will deterio-
rate the bushing rubber.
If the vehicle is used for severe, off-road operation,
the springs should be examined periodically. Check
for broken and shifted leafs, loose and missing clips,
and broken center bolts. Refer to Spring and Shock
Absorber Diagnosis chart for additional information.
DRREAR 2 - 41

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers were overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
NOTE: Bleed procedure should be in this order (1)
Right rear (2) Left rear (3) Right front (4) Left front.(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
(5) Before moving the vehicle verify the pedal is
firm and not mushy.
(6) Top off the brake fluid and install the reservoir
cap.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system.
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKES
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT C-4340
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT
C-3716-A
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Align the holes in the bumpers to the trailer
hitch pins and install the bumper.
(2) Install the support bracket to the hitch bolts,
loosely.
(3) Install the front upper edge to the trailer hitch
bolts and tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the license plate reinforcement to hitch
bolts and tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(5) Tighten the left bumper bracket bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(6) Tighten the right bumper bracket bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(7) Connect the trailer light connector electrical
connection, if equipped.
(8) Connect the license plate light electrical con-
nectors.
(9) Install the license plate.
FRAME
WARNING
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
WARNING: USE EYE PROTECTION WHEN GRIND-
ING OR WELDING METAL, SERIOUS EYE INJURY
CAN RESULT.
²BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH FRAME REPAIR
INVOLVING GRINDING OR WELDING, VERIFY THAT
VEHICLE FUEL SYSTEM IS NOT LEAKING OR IN
CONTACT WITH REPAIR AREA, PERSONAL INJURY
CAN RESULT.
²DO NOT ALLOW OPEN FLAME OR HEAT AND
METAL SPATTER FROM ARC WELDING, TO CON-
TACT PLASTIC BODY PANELS. FIRE OR EXPLO-
SION CAN RESULT.
²WHEN WELDED FRAME COMPONENTS ARE
REPLACED, ENSURE COMPLETE PENETRATION
WELD IS ACHIEVED DURING INSTALLATION. IF
NOT, DANGEROUS OPERATING CONDITIONS CAN
RESULT.
²STAND CLEAR OF CABLES OR CHAINS ON
PULLING EQUIPMENT DURING FRAME STRAIGHT-
ENING OPERATIONS, PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT.
²DO NOT VENTURE UNDER A HOISTED VEHI-
CLE THAT IS NOT SUPPORTED ON SAFETY
STANDS, PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION: 1500 series Dodge Ram Trucks (2002 and
later) are not designed for snow plow equipment.The front collision repair tips must not be installed
on any truck equipped with a snow plow, or even
intended to be equipped with a snow plow.
CAUTION: Do not reuse damaged fasteners, quality
of repair would be suspect. Failure to use only pro-
duction fasteners or fasteners of equivalent hard-
ness can result in loosening or failure. Do not drill
any holes in the frame that are not specifically out-
lined in this or other, DaimlerChrysler procedure as
frame rail failure can result. When using heat to
straighten frame components do not exceed 566ÉC
(1050ÉF), metal fatigue can result.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - LIGHT DUTY FRONT
FRAME RAIL TIP REPLACEMENT
CAUTION: This procedure is designed to replace
the front frame rail tips that have been damaged in
the crush initiator zones. Prior to any cutting, the
vehicle must be mounted on the appropriate frame
repair equipment (ªframe rackº), checked with three
dimensional measuring equipment, and the neces-
sary pull corrections made. If damage remains in
the frame beyond the area covered by this service
part after the pull, the frame must be replaced in its
entirety.
NOTE: Procedures for 4X2 and 4X4 are common
except as noted in this procedure.
(1) Before proceding with this repair procedure
review the required service warnings and precau-
tions. (Refer to 13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME -
WARNING)
(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(3) Remove the front wheelhouse splash shield.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEEL-
HOUSE SPLASH SHIELD - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the bolts and position aside the wire
harness and grounds, if required.
(5) Remove the front bumper. (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/FRONT BUMPER
- REMOVAL)
(6) Loosen and lower the stabilizer bar mount and
bar. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/STABI-
LIZER BAR - REMOVAL)
13 - 4 FRAMES & BUMPERSDR
REAR BUMPER (Continued)

(7) Remove the front cab mount bolt to the Front
End Sheet Metal (FESM) bracket. (Fig. 5)
(8) Make a vertical mark on the inside and outside
face of the frame rail 112 mm (4.5 in.) from the for-
ward edge of the PLP hole in the sides of the rail.
(Fig. 7)
(9) Using a straightedge, connect the two lines on
the top and bottom of the rail.
(10) Using the service tip as a guide, re-check your
cut lines to ensure the service tip will fit when the
cut is made.
CAUTION: Do not use any flame or plasma cutting
equipment to cut the frame in this procedure. This
is due to the inaccurate nature of the cut-line and
the fact that the high temperatures achieved duringflame or plasma cutting will change the metal char-
acteristics and may weaken the frame and/or repair
location.
(11) Using a reciprocating saw or equivalent, care-
fully cut and remove the damaged frame rail tip.
(Fig. 6)
(12) Assemble the service sleeve. Refer to SER-
VICE SLEEVE ASSEMBLY at the end of this proce-
dure.
NOTE: Any burned surface coatings will need to be
removed from the sleeve prior to installation and
application of corrosion preventative coatings.
(13) Smooth and square the cut edges of the origi-
nal frame. (Fig. 6)
Fig. 5 REPLACEMENT FRAME TIP
1 - FRONT END SHEET METAL (FESM) BRACKET
2 - CAB INSULATOR
3 - RING-FILLET WELD/HOLE
4 - PRINCIPLE LOCATING POINT (PLP)
5 - WELD ROOT GAP 4 mm-6mm(0.16 in. - 0.24 in.)
6 - FRONT CAB MOUNT BOLT
7 - REPLACEMENT FRAME TIP
Fig. 6 FRAME CUT LOCATION
1 - REPAIR ROOT OPENING
2 - SERVICE SLEEVE
3 - PRINCIPLE LOCATING POINT (PLP)
4 - SUSPENSION BRACKETS
5 - FRAME
6 - FRAME CUTOFF LOCATION - 112 mm (4.5 in.)
7 - FRAME SERVICE TIP
DRFRAMES & BUMPERS 13 - 5
FRAME (Continued)