Valve DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G User Guide

normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak or
fluid contamination. The leak point could be at a
brake line, fitting, hose, or caliper/wheel cylinder. If
leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around
the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action isto inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve or a
vacuum hose could also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

(3) Install parking brake cable in the brake lever.
(4) Install the park brake shoes (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES - INSTALLA-
TION). (Fig. 66).
(5) Install axle shaft, (Refer to 3 - DIFFEREN-
TIAL & DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE - 9 1/4/AXLE
SHAFTS - INSTALLATION).
(6) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES -
ADJUSTMENTS).
(7) Install the rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(8) Install the caliper adapter (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the caliper (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(10) Install wheel and tire assembly.
FLUID
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or
deteriorated rubber parts.
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of
petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of
drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid sepa-
rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder, propor-
tioning valve, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals,
Antilock Brakes hydraulic unit and all hydraulic
fluid hoses.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL
Always clean the master cylinder reservoir and
caps before checking fluid level. If not cleaned, dirt
could enter the fluid.
The fluid fill level is indicated on the side of the
master cylinder reservoir (Fig. 41).
The correct fluid level is to the MAX indicator on
the side of the reservoir. If necessary, add fluid to the
proper level.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
(1) Install the prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Remove the reservoir cap and siphon fluid into
a drain container (Fig. 42).
(3) Remove the electrical connector from the fluid
level switch in the reservoir (Fig. 42).
(4) Remove the reservoir mounting bolt (Fig. 42).
Fig. 41 FLUID LEVEL TYPICAL
1 - FLUID RESERVOIR
2 - MAX LEVEL MARK
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 23
DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNT (Continued)

The cylinder reservoir can be replaced when neces-
sary. However, the aluminum body section of the
master cylinder is not a repairable component.
NOTE: If diagnosis indicates that an internal mal-
function has occurred, the aluminum body section
must be replaced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 44).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 45).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
Fig. 44 Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections
1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
Fig. 45 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal
1 - BOOSTER CHECK VALVE
2 - APPLY TEST VACUUM HERE
3 - VALVE SEAL
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 25
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - ALL EXCEPT HYDROBOOST
NOTE: If master cylinder is replaced bleed cylinder
before installation.
NOTE: Make sure the output rod of the brake
booster is in position and retained by a output rod
retaining ring, by looking into the boosters master
cylinder mounting hole. This position will enable
the output rod to enter inside of the master cylinder
plunger sleeve during installation. Proper position
is obtained when the output rod is centered perpen-
dicular to the master cylinder mounting hole (Fig.
49).
NOTE: Prior to installing the master cylinder assem-
bly check that there is a vacuum seal present at the
shoulder of the master cylinder flange and it's neck.
A square seal must be present to ensure vacuum
integrity with the booster.
(1) Gently install the master cylinder on the
booster mounting studs.
NOTE: Take precautions to locate the master cylin-
der plunger over the booster output rod, before
installing the master cylinder. If correctly fitted the
master cylinder should slide easily onto the booster
output rod before the mounting studs are engaged
in the flange holes of the master cylinder.(2) Install new mounting nuts and tighten to 25
N´m (221 in. lbs.)
(3) Install the brake lines and tighten to 19 N´m
(170 in. lbs.)
(4) Reconnect the electrical connector for the low
fluid level switch.
(5) Fill and bleed the base brake system. (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - HYDROBOOST
NOTE: If master cylinder is replaced bleed cylinder
before installation.
(1) Install the master cylinder on the booster
mounting studs (Fig. 48).
(2) Install new mounting nuts and tighten to 25
N´m (221 in. lbs.)
(3) Install the brake lines and tighten to 19 N´m
(170 in. lbs.)
(4) Reconnect the elctrical connector for the low
fluid level switch.
(5) Fill and bleed the base brake system. (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 48 HYDROBOOST MASTER CYLINDER
1 - HYDROBOOST UNIT
2 - MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR
3 - MASTER CYLINDER
4 - MOUNTING NUTS
Fig. 49 OUTPUT ROD ORIENTATION
1 - MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR
2 - CHECK VALVE
3 - VACUUM BOOST UNIT
4 - BOOSTER MOUNTING STUDS
5 - INPUT ROD
6 - OUTPUT ROD
7 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING STUDS
8 - MASTER CYLINDER PLUNGER SLEEVE
9- MASTER CYLINDER
10 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 27
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

(9)On vehicles equipped with adjustable
brake pedal.Reconnect the electrical connector to
the motor and the adjuster cable at the pedal.
(10) Install the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
All models use a tandem diaphragm, power brake
booster.
NOTE: The power brake booster is not a repairable
component. The booster must be replaced as an
assembly if diagnosis indicates a malfunction has
occurred.
OPERATION
The booster unit consists of a single housing
divided into two by a tandem diaphragm. The outer
edge of the diaphragm is secured to the housing. The
booster push rod, which connects the booster to the
brake pedal and master cylinder, is attached to the
center of the diaphragm. A check valve is used in the
booster outlet connected to the engine intake mani-
fold. Power assist is generated by utilizing a combi-
nation of vacuum and atmospheric pressure to boost
brake assist.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove master cylinder. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER CYLINDER -
REMOVAL).
(2) Disconnect vacuum line at booster.
(3) Remove clip securing booster push rod to brake
pedal (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHAN-
ICAL/PEDAL - REMOVAL). (Fig. 53).
(4) Remove the nuts from the booster mounting
studs (Fig. 53).
(5) Remove the booster and gasket from front cowl
panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Guide the booster studs into the cowl panel
holes and seat the booster on the panel (Fig. 53).
(2) Install and tighten new booster attaching nuts
to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the booster push rod on brake pedal and
install clip (Fig. 53).
(4) Install the booster check valve if removed and
connect the vacuum hose to the check valve.
(5) Install the master cylinder. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER
CYLINDER - INSTALLATION).
(6) Fill and bleed the brake system. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 52 PEDAL ASSEMBLY (ADJUSTABLE PEDALS
SHOWN)
1 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
2 - PEDAL ASSEMBLY BRACKET
3 - MOUNTING NUT
4 - BRAKE & ACCELERATOR PEDAL
5 - BRAKE BOOSTER MOUNTING STUDS
Fig. 53 POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
1 - MOUNTING NUT
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 29
PEDAL (Continued)

HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE
BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER
The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from
the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a
booster problem, first verify the power steering pump
is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
²Check the power steering fluid level.
²Check the brake fluid level.
²Check all power steering hoses and lines for
leaks and restrictions.
²Check power steering pump pressure.
NOISES
The hydraulic booster unit will produce certain
characteristic booster noises. The noises may occur
when the brake pedal is used in a manner not asso-
ciated with normal braking or driving habits.
HISSING
A hissing noise may be noticed when above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied, 40 lbs. or above. The
noise will be more noticeable if the vehicle is not
moving. The noise will increase with the brake pedal
pressure and an increase of system operating temper-
ature.
CLUNK-CHATTER-CLICKING
A clunk-chatter-clicking may be noticed when the
brake pedal is released quickly, after above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied 50-100 lbs..
BOOSTER FUNCTION TEST
With the engine off depress the brake pedal several
times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the
brake pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the
engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push
back against your foot. This indicates the booster is
operating properly.
ACCUMULATOR LEAKDOWN
(1) Start the engine, apply the brakes and turn the
steering wheel from lock to lock. This will ensure the
accumulator is charged. Turn off the engine and let
the vehicle sit for one hour. After one hour thereshould be at least two power assisted brake applica-
tion with the engine off. If the system does not retain
a charge the booster must be replaced.
(2) With the engine off depress the brake pedal
several times to discharge the accumulator. Grasp
the accumulator and see if it wobbles or turns. If it
does the accumulator has lost a gas charge and the
booster must be replaced.
SEAL LEAKAGE
If the booster leaks from any of the seals the
booster assembly must be replaced (Fig. 54).
²INPUT ROD SEAL:Fluid leakage from rear
end of the booster.
²PISTON SEAL:Fluid leakage from vent at
front of booster.
²HOUSING SEAL:Fluid leakage between hous-
ing and housing cover.
²SPOOL VALVE SEAL:Fluid leakage near
spool plug.
²RETURN PORT FITTING SEAL:Fluid leak-
age from port fitting.
Fig. 54 Hydraulic Booster Seals
1 - PUMP
2 - GEAR
3 - INPUT SEAL
4 - HOUSING SEAL
5 - ACCUMULATOR SEAL
6 - PISTON SEAL
7 - SPOOL PLUG SEAL
8 - RETURN
5 - 30 BRAKES - BASEDR

HYDRAULIC BOOSTER DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Slow Brake Pedal Return 1. Excessive seal friction in booster. 1. Replace booster.
2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster.
3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose.
4. Damaged input rod. 4. Replace booster.
Excessive Brake Pedal
Effort.1. Internal or external seal leakage. 1. Replace booster.
2. Faulty steering pump. 2. Replace pump.
Brakes Self Apply 1. Dump valve faulty. 1. Replace booster.
2. Contamination in hydraulic
system.2. Flush hydraulic system and replace
booster.
3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose.
Booster Chatter, Pedal
Vibration1. Slipping pump belt. 1. Replace power steering belt.
2. Low pump fluid level. 2. Fill pump and check for leaks.
Grabbing Brakes 1. Low pump flow. 1. Test and repair/replace pump.
2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING
The hydraulic booster is generally self-bleeding,
this procedure will normally bleed the air from the
booster. Normal driving and operation of the unit will
remove any remaining trapped air.
(1) Fill power steering pump reservoir.
(2) Disconnect fuel shutdown relay and crank the
engine for several seconds, Refer to Fuel System for
relay location and WARNING.
(3) Check fluid level and add if necessary.
(4) Connect fuel shutdown relay and start the
engine.
(5) Turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to
lock twice.
(6) Stop the engine and discharge the accumulator
by depressing the brake pedal 5 times.
(7) Start the engine and turn the steering wheel
slowly from lock to lock twice.
(8) Turn off the engine and check fluid level and
add if necessary.
NOTE: If fluid foaming occurs, wait for foam to dis-
sipate and repeat steps 7 and 8.
REMOVAL
NOTE: If the booster is being replaced because the
power steering fluid is contaminated, flush the
power steering system before replacing the booster.
(1) With engine off depress the brake pedal 5
times to discharge the accumulator.
(2) Remove brake lines from master cylinder.
(3) Remove mounting nuts from the master cylin-
der.
(4) Remove the bracket from the hydraulic booster
lines and master cylinder mounting studs.
(5) Remove the master cylinder.
(6) Remove the return hose and the two pressure
lines from the hydraulic booster (Fig. 55).
(7) Remove the booster push rod clip, washer and
rod remove from the brake pedal.
(8) Remove the mounting nuts from the hydraulic
booster and remove the booster.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 31
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

BRAKES - ABS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BRAKES - ABS
DESCRIPTION.........................45
OPERATION...........................45
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ABS BRAKE
BLEEDING...........................46
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................46
FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
DESCRIPTION.........................47
OPERATION...........................47
REMOVAL.............................48
INSTALLATION.........................48
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WHEEL
ANTILOCK...........................48
REMOVAL.............................48
INSTALLATION.........................48TONE WHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WHEEL
SPEED SENSOR......................49
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL
DESCRIPTION - ELECTRONIC VARIABLE
BRAKE PROPORTIONING...............49
OPERATION - ELECTRONIC VARIABLE
BRAKE PROPORTIONING...............49
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT)
DESCRIPTION.........................49
OPERATION...........................49
REMOVAL.............................50
INSTALLATION.........................50
R WA L VA LV E
DESCRIPTION.........................50
OPERATION...........................50
REMOVAL.............................51
INSTALLATION.........................51
BRAKES - ABS
DESCRIPTION
The antilock brake system (ABS) is an electroni-
cally operated, three channel brake control system.
The vehicle has Electronic Variable Brake Propor-
tioning (EVBP) designed into the system which elim-
inates the combination/proportioning valve.
The system is designed to prevent wheel lockup
and maintain steering control during braking. Pre-
venting lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid
pressure to the wheel brake units.
The hydraulic system is a three channel design.
The front wheel brakes are controlled individually
and the rear wheel brakes in tandem. The ABS elec-
trical system is separate from other electrical circuits
in the vehicle. A specially programmed controller
antilock brake unit operates the system components.
ABS system major components include:
²Controller Antilock Brakes (CAB)
²Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
²Wheel Speed Sensors (WSS)
²ABS Warning Light
OPERATION
Battery voltage is supplied to the CAB. The CAB
performs a system initialization procedure at start
up. A check of the ABS motor is performed at 15miles per hour. Initialization consists of a static and
dynamic self check of system electrical components.
The static and dynamic checks occurs at ignition
start up. During the dynamic check, the CAB briefly
cycles solenoids to verify operation. An audible noise
may be heard during this self check. This noise
should be considered normal. The ABS motor and
pump are then checked at a speed of 15 mile per
hour.
If an ABS component exhibits a fault during ini-
tialization, the CAB illuminates the amber warning
light and registers a fault code in the microprocessor
memory.
The CAB monitors wheel speed sensor inputs con-
tinuously while the vehicle is in motion. However,
the CAB will not activate any ABS components as
long as sensor inputs indicate normal braking.
During normal braking, the master cylinder, power
booster and wheel brake units all function as they
would in a vehicle without ABS. The HCU compo-
nents are not activated.
The purpose of the antilock system is to prevent
wheel lockup. Preventing lockup helps maintain vehi-
cle braking action and steering control.
The antilock CAB activates the system whenever
sensor signals indicate periods of wheel slip.
The antilock system prevents lockup during a
wheel slip condition by modulating fluid apply pres-
sure to the wheel brake units.
DRBRAKES - ABS 5 - 45

Brake fluid apply pressure is modulated according
to wheel speed, degree of slip and rate of decelera-
tion. Sensors at each front wheel convert wheel speed
into electrical signals. These signals are transmitted
to the CAB for processing and determination of
wheel slip and deceleration rate.
The ABS system has three fluid pressure control
channels. The front brakes are controlled separately
and the rear brakes in tandem. A speed sensor input
signal indicating a wheel slip condition activates the
CAB antilock program.
There are Two solenoid valves (Isolation and Dump
valve) which are used in each antilock control chan-
nel. The valves are all located within the HCU valve
body and work in pairs to either increase, hold, or
decrease apply pressure as needed in the individual
control channels.
During an ABS stop the ISO valve is energized
which acts to prevent further pressure build-up to
the calipers. Then the Dump valve dumps off pres-
sure until the wheel unlocks. This will continue until
the wheels quit slipping altogether.STANDARD PROCEDURE - ABS BRAKE
BLEEDING
ABS system bleeding requires conventional bleed-
ing methods plus use of the DRB scan tool. The pro-
cedure involves performing a base brake bleeding,
followed by use of the scan tool to cycle and bleed the
HCU pump and solenoids. A second base brake bleed-
ing procedure is then required to remove any air
remaining in the system.
(1) Perform base brake bleeding,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Connect scan tool to the Data Link Connector.
(3) Select ANTILOCK BRAKES, followed by MIS-
CELLANEOUS, then ABS BRAKES. Follow the
instructions displayed. When scan tool displays TEST
COMPLETE, disconnect scan tool and proceed.
(4) Perform base brake bleeding a second time,(Re-
fer to 5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Top off master cylinder fluid level and verify
proper brake operation before moving vehicle.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
ABS Assembly
Mounting Bolts15 11 Ð
ABS Assembly
CAB Screws3.5 Ð 31
ABS Assembly
Brake Line Fittings19 Ð 170
Wheel Speed Sensors
Front Sensor Bolt21 Ð 190
Wheel Speed Sensors
Bracket To Knuckle6.7 Ð 60
Wheel Speed Sensors
Rear Sensor Stud22.5 Ð 200
Controller
Mounting Screws6Ð53
RWAL Module
Mounting Bolts15 11 Ð
RWAL Valve
Brake Line Fittings19 Ð 170
Rear Wheel Speed
Sensor
Mounting Bolt24 Ð 200
5 - 46 BRAKES - ABSDR
BRAKES - ABS (Continued)