loose steering DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G User Guide
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Page 72 of 2627

KNUCKLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the hub bearing (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/FRONT/HUB / BEARING - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove tie-rod or drag link end from the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(3) Remove the ABS sensor wire and bracket from
knuckle. Refer to Brakes, for proper procedures.
(4) Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud
nut. Remove the upper and lower ball stud nuts.
(5) Strike the steering knuckle with a brass ham-
mer to loosen.
(6) Remove knuckle from axle tube yokes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the steering knuckle on the ball studs.
(2) Install and tighten lower ball stud nut to 47
N´m (35 ft. lbs.) torque. Do not install cotter pin at
this time.
(3) Install and tighten upper ball stud nut to 94
N´m (70 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(4) Retorque lower ball stud nut to 190±217 N´m
(140±160 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(5) Install the hub bearing (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/FRONT/HUB / BEARING - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install tie-rod or drag link end onto the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(7) Install the ABS sensor wire and bracket to the
knuckle. Refer to Brakes, for proper procedure.
UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LEFT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the upper suspension arm nut and bolt
at the axle bracket (Fig. 21).
(3) Remove the nut and bolt at the frame rail and
remove the upper suspension arm.
REMOVAL - RIGHT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Disconnect the exhaust system at the mani-
folds.
(3) Disconnect the rubber exhaust mounts at the
muffler.
(4) Support the transmission.
(5) Remove the transmission cross member.
(6) Lower the exhaust system down in order to
gain access to the removal of the upper bolt.(7) Remove the nut and bolt at the frame rail and
remove the upper suspension arm.
(8) Remove the upper suspension arm nut and bolt
at the axle bracket.
(9) Remove the suspension arm from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - LEFT
(1) Position the upper suspension arm at the axle
and frame rail.
(2) Install the bolts and finger tighten the nuts.
(3) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(4) Tighten nut at the axle bracket to 163 N´m
(120 ft. lbs.). Tighten nut at frame bracket to 163
N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
INSTALLATION - RIGHT
(1) Position the upper suspension arm at the axle
and frame rail.
(2) Install the bolts, then finger tighten the nuts.
(3) Reconnect the rubber exhaust mounts at the
muffler.
(4) Reconnect the exhaust at the manifolds.
(5) Install the transmission crossmember.
(6) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(7) Tighten nut at the axle bracket to 163 N´m
(120 ft. lbs.). Tighten nut at frame bracket to 163
N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 21 Link/Coil Suspension
1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - SHOCK ABSORBER
3 - COIL SPRING
4 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
5 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
6 - TRACK BAR
DRFRONT - LINK/COIL 2 - 37
Page 76 of 2627

REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR
DESCRIPTION.........................41
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK.............................41
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................42
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................43
JOUNCE BUMPER
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................43
AUXILIARY SPRING BUMPERS (3500)
REMOVAL.............................43INSTALLATION.........................43
SHOCK
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................43
SPRING
DESCRIPTION.........................44
OPERATION...........................44
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................44
SPRING TIP INSERTS
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................45
REAR
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension is comprised of:
²Shock Absorbers
²Jounce Bumpers
²Leaf Springs
²Auxiliary Leaf Spring (3500 series)
²Auxiliary Spring Bumpers (3500 series)
²Drive Axle
CAUTION: A vehicle should always be loaded so
the vehicle weight center-line is located immedi-
ately forward of the rear axle. Correct vehicle load-
ing provides proper front tire-to-road contact. This
results in maximum vehicle handling stability and
safety. Incorrect vehicle weight distribution can
cause excessive tire tread wear, spring fatigue or
failure, and erratic steering.
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings (except stabilizer bar) should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is
important to have the springs supporting the weight
of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The spring eye and shock absorber bushings do not
require any type of lubrication. Do not attempt to
stop spring bushing noise by lubricating them.
Grease and mineral oil-base lubricants will deterio-
rate the bushing rubber.
If the vehicle is used for severe, off-road operation,
the springs should be examined periodically. Check
for broken and shifted leafs, loose and missing clips,
and broken center bolts. Refer to Spring and Shock
Absorber Diagnosis chart for additional information.
DRREAR 2 - 41
Page 101 of 2627

HALF SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION.............................20
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................20
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................21
SPECIFICATIONS.......................21
SPECIAL TOOLS.......................21CV JOINT-OUTER
REMOVAL.............................22
INSTALLATION.........................23
CV JOINT-INNER
REMOVAL.............................25
INSTALLATION.........................25
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION
CAUTION:: Never grasp half shaft assembly by the
boots. This may cause the boot to pucker or crease
and reduce the service life of the boot.
Avoid over angulating or stroking the C/V joints
when handling the half shaft.
Half shafts exposed to battery acid, transmission
fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid or gasoline may
cause the boots to deteriorate. Failure to heed cau-
tion may result in damage.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check inboard and outboard C/V joint for leaking
grease. This is a sign of boot or boot clamp damage.
NOISE/VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise or vibration in turns could be
caused by a damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint
seal boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the
loss/contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint. Noise could also
be caused by another component of the vehicle com-
ing in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a damaged or worn C/V joint. A
torn boot or loose/missing clamp on the inner/outer
joint which has allowed the grease to be lost will
damage the C/V joint.
SHUDDER/VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This could be a worn/damaged inner tripod joint or
a sticking tripod joint. Improper wheel alignment
may also cause a shudder or vibration.
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of out of balance
front tires or tire/wheel runout. Foreign material
(mud, etc.) packed on the backside of the wheel(s)
will also cause a vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on
hoist.
(2) Remove half shaft hub nut.
(3) Remove brake caliper and rotor.
(4) Position hydraulic jack under lower suspension
arm and raise jack to unload rebound bumper.
(5) Remove lower shock absorber bolt.
(6) Remove upper ball joint nut and seperate ball
with Remover 8677 (Fig. 1).
(7) Disengage inner C/V joint from axle shaft with
two pry bars between the C/V housing and axle hous-
ing.
Fig. 1 UPPER BALL JOINT SEPARATION
1 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
2 - REMOVER
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - 20 HALF SHAFTDR
Page 138 of 2627

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Gear Teeth Broke 1. Overloading. 1. Replace gears. Examine other
gears and bearings for possible
damage.
2. Erratic clutch operation. 2. Replace gears and examine the
remaining parts for damage. Avoid
erratic clutch operation.
3. Ice-spotted pavement. 3. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage.
4. Improper adjustments. 4. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage. Ensure
ring gear backlash is correct.
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion
contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched
ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing
pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components
and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
tot he proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
REMOVAL
(1) With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on
hoist.
(2) Remove brake calipers and rotors.
(3) Disconnect ABS wheel speed sensors.
(4) Disconnect axle vent hose.
(5) Remove front propeller shaft.
(6) Remove stabilizer bar links at the axle brack-
ets (Fig. 1).
(7) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle brackets
(Fig. 2).
(8) Remove track bar from the axle bracket (Fig.
3).
(9) Remove tie rod and drag link (Fig. 4) from the
steering knuckles.
(10) Position lift under the axle assembly and
secure axle to lift.
(11) Mark suspension alignment cams for installa-
tion reference.
Fig. 1 STABILIZER LINK
1 - PULLER C-3894-A
2 - LINK
DRFRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA 3 - 57
FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA (Continued)
Page 251 of 2627

FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................24
BRAKE JUNCTION BLOCK
REMOVAL.............................24
INSTALLATION.........................24
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION.........................24
OPERATION...........................25
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER...........25
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER
CYLINDER BLEEDING..................26
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - ALL EXCEPT HYDROBOOST . . . 26
REMOVAL - HYDROBOOST.............26
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - ALL EXCEPT
HYDROBOOST.......................27
INSTALLATION - HYDROBOOST..........27
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION.........................28
OPERATION...........................28
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................28
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................29
OPERATION...........................29
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER...........................30
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING......31
REMOVAL.............................31
INSTALLATION.........................32
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DISC BRAKE ROTOR..................32
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT....................33
REMOVAL - REAR.....................34REMOVAL - REAR DUAL WHEELS........34
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT................34
INSTALLATION - REAR.................34
INSTALLATION - REAR DUAL WHEELS....35
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL.............................35
INSTALLATION.........................36
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION.........................36
OPERATION...........................36
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................36
REMOVAL - REAR PARK BRAKE CABLE . . . 37
REMOVAL - RIGHT REAR CABLE.........37
REMOVAL - LEFT REAR CABLE..........38
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................38
INSTALLATION - REAR PARK BRAKE
CABLE..............................38
INSTALLATION - RIGHT REAR CABLE.....38
INSTALLATION - LEFT REAR CABLE......39
SHOES
REMOVAL.............................39
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE....39
INSPECTION - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE . . 39
INSTALLATION.........................40
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE SHOES . . 41
ADJUSTMENT - WITH ADJUSTING TOOL . . . 42
PEDAL
REMOVAL.............................42
INSTALLATION.........................42
CABLE TENSIONER
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................43
RELEASE HANDLE
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................44
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake pads,
calipers, brake drum in hat rotor in the rear, rotors,
brake lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking
brake components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEDR
Page 254 of 2627

of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers were overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
NOTE: Bleed procedure should be in this order (1)
Right rear (2) Left rear (3) Right front (4) Left front.(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
(5) Before moving the vehicle verify the pedal is
firm and not mushy.
(6) Top off the brake fluid and install the reservoir
cap.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system.
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKES
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT C-4340
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT
C-3716-A
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
Page 291 of 2627

(12) Rotate rotor to verify that the park brake
shoes are not dragging on the brake drum. If park
brake shoes are dragging, remove rotor and back off
star wheel adjuster one notch and recheck for brake
shoe drag against drum. Continue with the previous
step until brake shoes are not dragging on brake
drum.
(13) Install disc brake caliper on caliper adapter
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install wheel and tire.
(15) Tighten the wheel mounting nuts in the
proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the
specified torque. Then repeat the tightening sequence
to the full specified torque of 180 N´m (135 ft. lbs.)
1500 & 2500 Series or 195 N´m (145 ft. lbs.) 3500
Series.
(16) Lower vehicle.
(17) Apply and release the park brake pedal one
time. This will seat and correctly adjust the park
brake cables.
CAUTION: Before moving vehicle, pump brake
pedal several times to ensure the vehicle has a firm
enough pedal to stop the vehicle.
NOTE: On a new vehicle or after parking brake lin-
ing replacement, it is recommended that the park-
ing brake system be conditioned prior to use. This
is done by making one stop from 25 mph on dry
pavement or concrete using light to moderate force
on the parking brake foot pedal.
(18) Road test the vehicle to ensure proper func-
tion of the vehicle's brake system.
ADJUSTMENT - WITH ADJUSTING TOOL
Adjustment can be made with a standard brake
gauge or with adjusting tool. Adjustment is per-
formed with the complete brake assembly installed
on the backing plate.
(1) Be sure parking brake lever is fully released.
(2) Raise vehicle so rear wheels can be rotated
freely.
(3) Remove plug from each access hole in brake
support plates.
(4) Loosen parking brake cable adjustment nut
until there is slack in front cable.
(5) Insert adjusting tool through support plate
access hole and engage tool in teeth of adjusting
screw star wheel (Fig. 82).
(6) Rotate adjuster screw star wheel (move tool
handle upward) until slight drag can be felt when
wheel is rotated.
(7) Back off adjuster screw star wheel until brake
drag is eliminated.(8) Repeat adjustment at opposite wheel. Be sure
adjustment is equal at both wheels.
(9) Install support plate access hole plugs.
(10) Adjust parking brake cable and lower vehicle.
(11) Depress park brake pedal and make sure park
brakes hold the vehicle staionary.
(12) Release park brake pedal.
PEDAL
REMOVAL
(1) Release the parking brake.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Loosen the cable tensioner nut at the equalizer
to create slack in the front cable.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN
OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(6) Disconnect the brake lamp wire from the
switch on the pedal assembly.
(7) Roll the carpet back, loosen the front cable
grommet from the floorpan and the cable retainer.
(8) Disengage the release rod (Fig. 83) from the
arm on the pedal assembly.
(9) Remove the bolts/nuts from the pedal assembly
and remove the assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the replacement pedal assembly on the
dash and cowl.
Fig. 82 Brake Adjustment
1 - STAR WHEEL
2 - LEVER
3 - BRAKE SHOE WEB
4 - SCREWDRIVER
5 - ADJUSTING TOOL
6 - ADJUSTER SPRING
5 - 42 BRAKES - BASEDR
SHOES (Continued)
Page 292 of 2627

(2) Install the bolts/nuts and tighten to 28 N´m (21
ft. lbs.) (Fig. 84).
(3) Install the park brake release rod.
(4) Connect the front cable to the arm on the pedal
assembly.
(5) Install the front cable grommet into the floor-
pan and the cable retainer, roll the carpet back.
(6) Connect the wires to the brake lamp switch.
(7) Install the knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN
OPENING COVER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Raise the vehicle.
(9) Adjust the parking brake cable tensioner (Refer
to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/CABLE TEN-
SIONER - ADJUSTMENTS).
CABLE TENSIONER
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Tensioner adjustment is only necessary
when the tensioner, or a cable has been replaced or
disconnected for service. When adjustment is nec-
essary, perform adjustment only as described in the
following procedure. This is necessary to avoid
faulty park brake operation.
(1) Raise the vehicle.
(2) Back off the cable tensioner adjusting nut to
create slack in the cables.
(3) Remove the rear wheel/tire assemblies. Then
remove the brake rotors (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - REMOVAL).
(4) Verify the brakes are in good condition and
operating properly.
(5) Verify the park brake cables operate freely and
are not binding, or seized.
(6) Check the rear brake shoe adjustment with
standard brake gauge (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARK-
ING BRAKE/SHOES - ADJUSTMENTS).
(7) Install the rotors (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION) and verify that the rotors rotate freely
without drag.
(8) Install the wheel/tire assemblies, (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Lower the vehicle enough for access to the park
brake foot pedal. Then fully apply the park brakes.
NOTE: Leave park brakes applied until adjustment
is complete.
(10) Raise the vehicle again.
(11) Mark the tensioner rod 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) from
edge of the tensioner (Fig. 85).
(12) Tighten the adjusting nut on the tensioner rod
until the mark is no longer visible.
CAUTION: Do not loosen, or tighten the tensioner
adjusting nut for any reason after completing
adjustment.
(13) Lower the vehicle until the rear wheels are
15-20 cm (6-8 in.) off the shop floor.
(14) Release the park brake foot pedal and verify
that rear wheels rotate freely without drag. Then
lower the vehicle.
Fig. 83 PARKING BRAKE PEDAL
1 - RELEASE ROD
2 - PEDAL ASSEMBLY
Fig. 84 PARKING BRAKE ASSEMBLY
1 - PEDAL ASSEMBLY
2 - MOUNTING NUT
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 43
PEDAL (Continued)
Page 334 of 2627

STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM 5.9L DIESEL ENGINE
Clean cooling system prior to refilling (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(1) Close radiator drain plug.
CAUTION: Due to the use of the one-way check
valve, the engine must not be operating when refill-
ing the cooling system.
NOTE: The diesel engine is equipped with two one-
way check valves (jiggle pins). The check valves
are used as a servicing feature and will vent air
when the system is being filled. Water pressure (or
flow) will hold the valves closed.
(2) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of
water and antifreeze.
(3) Fill coolant reserve/overflow tank to the FULL
mark.
(4) Start and operate engine until thermostat
opens. Upper radiator hose should be warm to touch.
(5) If necessary, add 50/50 water and antifreeze
mixture to the coolant reserve/overflow tank to main-
tain coolant level. This level should be between the
ADD and FULL marks. The level in the reserve/over-
flow tank may drop below the ADD mark after three
or four warm-up and cool-down cycles.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ADDING
ADDITIONAL COOLANT
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. Only MopartAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with
corrosion inhibitors called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain a freeze
point of -37ÉC (-35ÉF). If it loses color or becomes con-
taminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh prop-
erly mixed coolant solution.
CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are
claimed to improve engine cooling.
Do not remove the radiator cap to add coolant to
the system. When adding coolant to maintain the cor-
rect level, do so only at the reserve/overflow bottle.
Remove the radiator cap only for testing or when
refilling the system after service. Removing the cap
unnecessarily can cause loss of coolant and allow air
to enter the system, which produces corrosion.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE OR LOOSEN THE
RADIATOR CAP WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM HOTAND UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM
THE COOLANT OR HIGH PRESSURE STEAM CAN
OCCUR.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft.
Lbs.In.
Lbs.
Bolt - Automatic Belt
Tensioner to Block41 30 -
Bolt - Automatic Belt
Tensioner Pulley61 45 -
Bolt - Automatic Belt
Tensioner Pulley - Diesel43 32 -
Bolt - Block Heater 2 - 17
Bolts - Generator/
Compressor Mounting
Bracket
# 1 and 2 54 40 -
# 3 40 30 -
Bolts - Generator/
Compressor Mounting
Bracket - Diesel24 18 -
Bolts - Fan Shroud to
Radiator Mounting - All
Except 5.9L Diesel6-55
5.9L Diesel 11.8 - 105
Bolts - Radiator to Support 8.5 - 75
Bolts - Fan Blade to
Viscous Fan Drive24 18 -
Fan Drive - All Except
8.0L/5.9L Diesel50 37 -
8.0L/5.9L Diesel 115 85 -
Bolt - Idler Pulley 54 40 -
Bolt - Idler Pulley - Diesel 43 32 -
Bolts - Thermostat Housing
- All Except 5.9L13 - 112
Bolts - Thermostat Housing
5.9L23 16 -
Bolts - Thermostat Housing
- Diesel10 - 89
Bolts - Power Steering Oil
Cooler8.4 - 75
Bolts - Transmission
Auxiliary Oil Cooler6-55
DRCOOLING 7 - 19
COOLING (Continued)
Page 336 of 2627

ACCESSORY DRIVE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BELT TENSIONER - 3.7L / 4.7L
DESCRIPTION.........................21
OPERATION...........................21
REMOVAL.............................21
INSTALLATION.........................22
BELT TENSIONER-5.7L
DESCRIPTION.........................22
OPERATION...........................22
REMOVAL.............................22
INSTALLATION.........................23
BELT TENSIONER - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION.........................23
OPERATION...........................23REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................24
DRIVE BELT - 3.7L / 4.7L
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ACCESSORY
DRIVE BELT.........................24
REMOVAL.............................26
INSTALLATION.........................26
DRIVE BELT - 5.9L DIESEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐACCESSORY
DRIVE BELT.........................27
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
BELT TENSIONER - 3.7L / 4.7L
DESCRIPTION
Correct drive belt tension is required to ensure
optimum performance of the belt driven engine acces-
sories. If specified tension is not maintained, belt
slippage may cause; engine overheating, lack of
power steering assist, loss of air conditioning capac-
ity, reduced generator output rate, and greatly
reduced belt life.
It is not necessary to adjust belt tension on the
3.7L or 4.7L engine. These engines are equipped with
an automatic belt tensioner (Fig. 1). The tensioner
maintains correct belt tension at all times. Due to
use of this belt tensioner, do not attempt to use a belt
tension gauge on 3.7L or 4.7L engines.
OPERATION
The automatic belt tensioner maintains belt ten-
sion by using internal spring pressure, a pivoting
arm and pulley to press against the drive belt.
REMOVAL
On 3.7L and 4.7L engines, the tensioner is
equipped with an indexing tang on back of ten-
sioner and an indexing stop on tensioner hous-
ing. If a new belt is being installed, tang must
be within approximately 24 mm (.94 inches) of
indexing stop. Belt is considered new if it has
been used 15 minutes or less.
If the above specification cannot be met, check for:²The wrong belt being installed (incorrect length/
width)
²Worn bearings on an engine accessory (A/C com-
pressor, power steering pump, water pump, idler pul-
ley or generator)
²A pulley on an engine accessory being loose
²Misalignment of an engine accessory
²Belt incorrectly routed.
NOTE: A used belt should be replaced if tensioner
indexing arrow has moved to the minimum tension
indicator. Tensioner travel stops at this point.
Fig. 1 AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONER
1 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
DRACCESSORY DRIVE 7 - 21