air DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual
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Page 1255 of 2627

VALVE GUIDE SEALS
DESCRIPTION
The valve guide seals are made of rubber and
incorporate an integral steel valve spring seat. The
integral garter spring maintains consistent lubrica-
tion control to the valve stems.
VALVE SPRINGS
DESCRIPTION
The valve springs are made from high strength
chrome silicon steel. The springs are NOT common
for intake and exhaust applications. The exhaust
spring has an external damper. The valve spring seat
is integral with the valve stem seal, which is a posi-
tive type seal to control lubrication.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Using Special Tool 8516 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, remove the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters.
(3) Remove the spark plug for the cylinder the
valve spring and seal are to be removed from.
(4) Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the
valves in place when the spring is removed.
NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed
in the same manner; this procedure only covers
one valve seal and valve spring.
(5) Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the
valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks
enough to be removed.
(6) Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care
when releasing the valve spring compressor.
(7) Remove the valve spring compressor.
NOTE: The valve springs are NOT common between
intake and exhaust.
(8) Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
(9) Remove the valve stem seal.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between
intake and exhaust.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed
in the same manner; this procedure only covers
one valve seal and valve spring.
(1) Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the
valves in place while the spring is installed.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between
intake and exhaust.
(2) Install the valve stem seal.
NOTE: The valve springs are NOT common between
intake and exhaust.
(3) Install the spring retainer, and the spring.
(4) Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, compress the valve spring.
(5) Install the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care
when releasing the valve spring compressor.
(6) Remove the valve spring compressor.
(7) Disconnect the shop air to the cylinder.
(8) Install the spark plug for the cylinder the valve
spring and seal was installed on.
(9) Using Special Tool 8516 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, install the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters.
(10) Install the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH
ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
(3) Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes
before restarting. Repeat this several times after
engine has reached normal operating temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the
oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with
debris.
9 - 32 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
Page 1256 of 2627

(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylin-
der head.
(11) Faulty lash adjuster.
a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at
base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster.
Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at
least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the intake manifold(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the fan shroud(Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
(10) Remove accessory drive belt(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(11) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing
mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark.
(12) Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate the crankshaft
one turn if necessary.
(13) Remove the crankshaft damper(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(14) Remove the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(15) Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler
sprocket using Special Tool 8429 Timing Chain Hold-
ing Fixture.NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to
removal to aid in installation.
(16) Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on
each side of the V6 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
(17) Remove the right side secondary chain ten-
sioner(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIM-
ING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(18) Remove the cylinder head access plug.
(19) Remove the right side secondary chain
guide(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft
sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as
the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is
serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed,
torque nut to 5 N´m (44 in. lbs.).
(20) Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft
drive gear.
CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. severe
damage to the valve train can occur.
CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at
the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to
remove the cylinder head without removing these
four bolts.
CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft tar-
get wheel for any reason. A damaged target wheel
can result in a vehicle no start condition.
NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder
block with twelve bolts.
(21) Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
(22) Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard
the gasket.
CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gas-
ket sealing surface, do to the design of the cylinder
head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head
sealing surface may prevent the gasket from prop-
erly sealing resulting in leaks.
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 33
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT (Continued)
Page 1260 of 2627

CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(3) Drain cooling system, below the level of the
heater hoses(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(4)
Remove accessory drive belt(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove air conditioning compressor retaining
bolts and move compressor to the left.
(6) Remove heater hoses.
(7) Disconnect injector and ignition coil connectors.
(8) Disconnect and remove positive crankcase ven-
tilation (PCV) hose.
(9) Remove oil fill tube.
(10) Un-clip injector and ignition coil harness and
move away from cylinder head cover.
(11) Remove right rear breather tube and filter
assembly.
(12) Remove cylinder head cover retaining bolts.
(13) Remove cylinder head cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the
cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers
may occur.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no
cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.
(1) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing sur-
faces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
(2) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double
ended studs to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs).
(3) Install right rear breather tube and filter
assembly.
(4) Connect injector, ignition coil electrical connec-
tors and harness retaining clips.
(5) Install the oil fill tube.
(6) Install PCV hose.
(7) Install heater hoses.
(8) Install air conditioning compressor retaining
bolts.
(9) Install accessory drive belt(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
(10) Fill Cooling system(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(12) Connect battery negative cable.
ROCKER ARM
DESCRIPTION
The rocker arms are steel stampings with an inte-
gral roller bearing. The rocker arms incorporate a 2.8
mm (0.11 inch) oil hole in the lash adjuster socket for
roller and camshaft lubrication.
REMOVAL
NOTE: Disconnect the battery negative cable to pre-
vent accidental starter engagement.
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) For rocker arm removal on cylinder No. 4,
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC
intake stroke.
(3) For rocker arm removal on cylinder No. 1,
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC
combustion stroke.
(4) For rocker arm removal on cylinders No. 3 and
No. 5, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at
TDC exhaust stroke.
(5) For rocker arm removal on cylinders No. 2 and
No. 6, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at
TDC ignition stroke.
(6) Using special tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover,
press downward on the valve spring, remove rocker
arm (Fig. 28).
Fig. 28 Rocker Arm - Removal
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8516
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 37
Page 1261 of 2627

VALVE GUIDE SEALS
DESCRIPTION
The valve guide seals are made of rubber and
incorporate an integral steel valve spring seat. The
integral garter spring maintains consistent lubrica-
tion control to the valve stems.
VALVE SPRINGS
DESCRIPTION
The valve springs are made from high strength
chrome silicon steel. There are different springs for
intake and exhaust applications. The exhaust spring
has an external damper. The valve spring seat is
integral with the valve stem seal, which is a positive
type seal to control lubrication.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Using Special Tool 8516 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, remove the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters.
(3) Remove the spark plug for the cylinder the
valve spring and seal are to be removed from.
(4) Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the
valves in place when the spring is removed.
NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed
in the same manner; this procedure only covers
one valve seal and valve spring.
(5) Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the
valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks
enough to be removed.
(6) Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care
when releasing the valve spring compressor.
(7) Remove the valve spring compressor.
NOTE: The valve springs are NOT common between
intake and exhaust.
(8) Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
(9) Remove the valve stem seal.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between
intake and exhaust.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed
in the same manner; this procedure only covers
one valve seal and valve spring.
(1) Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the
valves in place while the spring is installed.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between
intake and exhaust.
(2) Install the valve stem seal.
NOTE: The valve springs are NOT common between
intake and exhaust.
(3) Install the spring retainer, and the spring.
(4) Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, compress the valve spring.
(5) Install the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care
when releasing the valve spring compressor.
(6) Remove the valve spring compressor.
(7) Disconnect the shop air to the cylinder.
(8) Install the spark plug for the cylinder the valve
spring and seal was installed on.
(9) Using Special Tool 8516 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, install the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters.
(10) Install the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block
is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an
enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to
the block. The block design allows coolant flow
between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant
bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included
in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
9 - 38 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
Page 1262 of 2627

for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 29).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 30).
Fig. 29 CYLINDER BORE CROSSHATCH PATTERN
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Fig. 30 BORE GAUGE-TYPICAL
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 39
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)
Page 1287 of 2627

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not posi-
tively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
9 - 64 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)
Page 1288 of 2627

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 72)and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb Idle - 25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpm - 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. Thefollowing steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
Fig. 72 OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT -TYPICAL
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 65
LUBRICATION (Continued)
Page 1289 of 2627

OIL PAN
DESCRIPTION
The engine oil pan is made of laminated steel and
has a single plane sealing surface. The sandwich
style oil pan gasket has an integrated windage tray
and steel carrier (Fig. 73). The sealing area of the
gasket is molded with rubber and is designed to be
reused as long as the gasket is not cut, torn or
ripped.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Install engine support fixture special tool #
8534.Do not raise engine at this time.
(3) Loosen both left and right side engine mount
through bolts. Do not remove bolts.
(4) Remove the structural dust cover, if equipped.
(5) Drain engine oil.
(6) Remove the front crossmember(Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT CROSS-
MEMBER - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: Only raise the engine enough to provide
clearance for oil pan removal. Check for proper
clearance at fan shroud to fan and cowl to intake
manifold.
(7) Raise engine using special tool 8534 to provide
clearance to remove oil pan.
NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gas-
ket is integral to engine windage tray and does not
come out with oil pan.
(8) Remove the oil pan mounting bolts and oil pan.
(9) Unbolt oil pump pickup tube and remove tube.
(10) Inspect the integral windage tray (Fig. 73)
and gasket and replace as needed.
CLEANING
(1) Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a
clean cloth.
(2) Clean the oil pan gasket surface.DO NOTuse
a grinder wheel or other abrasive tool to clean seal-
ing surface.
(3) Clean oil screen and tube thoroughly in clean
solvent.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for
stripped or damaged threads. Repair as necessary.
(2) Inspect the oil pan mounting flange for bends
or distortion. Straighten flange, if necessary.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the oil pan gasket mating surface of the
bedplate and oil pan.
(2) Inspect integrated oil pan gasket, and replace
as necessary.
(3) Position the integrated oil pan gasket/windage
tray assembly.
(4) Install the oil pickup tube
(5) Install the mounting bolt and nuts. Tighten
nuts to 28 N´m (20 ft. lbs.).
(6) If removed, install stud at position No. 9. (Fig.
74).
(7) Position the oil pan and install the mounting
bolts and nut. Tighten the mounting bolts and nut to
15 N´m (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown (Fig. 74).
(8) Lower the engine into mounts using special
tool 8534.
(9) Install both the left and right side engine
mount through bolts. Tighten the nuts to 68 N´m (50
ft. lbs.).
(10) Remove special tool 8534.
(11) Install structural dust cover, if equipped.
Fig. 73 Oil Pan And Gasket
1 - OIL PAN
2 - WINDAGE TRAY AND INTEGRATED OIL PAN GASKET
9 - 66 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
Page 1295 of 2627

CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800
kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhib-
ited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five
minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil
level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in Maintenance Schedules.
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if
damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil described in this sec-
tion.
(8) Install oil fill cap.
(9) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(10) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used
engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle
engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this
section.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold (Fig. 88) is made of a compos-
ite material and features 300 mm (11.811 in.) long
runners which maximizes low end torque. The intake
manifold uses single plane sealing which consist of
six individual press in place port gaskets to prevent
leaks. The throttle body attaches directly to the
intake manifold. Eight studs and two bolts are used
to fasten the intake to the head.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE
MANIFOLD LEAKS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
Fig. 88 Intake Manifold
1 - THROTTLE BODY
2 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
3 - INTAKE PORT GASKETS
9 - 72 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
OIL (Continued)
Page 1296 of 2627

(1) Start the engine.
(2) Spray a small stream of water (spray bottle) at
the suspected leak area.
(3) If engine RPM'S change, the area of the sus-
pected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(3) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(4) Disconnect electrical connectors for the follow-
ing components: Refer to FUEL SYSTEM for compo-
nent locations.
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
(5) Disconnect vapor purge hose, brake booster
hose, speed control servo hose, positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) hose.
(6) Disconnect generator electrical connections.
(7) Disconnect air conditioning compressor electri-
cal connections.
(8) Disconnect left and right radio suppressor
straps.
(9) Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers.
(10) Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt
and ground strap.
(11) Bleed fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(12) Remove fuel rail.
(13) Remove throttle body assembly and mounting
bracket.
(14) Drain cooling system below coolant tempera-
ture level (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(15) Remove the heater hoses from the engine
front cover and the heater core.
(16) Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes
from intake manifold.
(17) Remove coolant temperature sensor (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT TEMP
SENSOR - REMOVAL).
(18) Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in
reverse order of tightening sequence.
(19) Remove intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install intake manifold gaskets.
(2) Install intake manifold.
(3) Install intake manifold retaining bolts and
tighten in sequence shown in to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.)
(Fig. 89).(4) Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
(5) Install throttle body assembly.
(6) Connect throttle cable and speed control cable
to throttle body.
(7) Install fuel rail.
(8) Install ignition coil towers.
(9) Position and install heater hoses and tubes
onto intake manifold.
(10) Install the heater hoses to the heater core and
engine front cover.
(11) Connect electrical connectors for the following
components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Ignition coil towers
²Fuel injectors
(12) Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and
ground strap.
(13) Connect generator electrical connections.
(14) Connect Vapor purge hose, Brake booster
hose, Speed control servo hose, Positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) hose.
(15) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Install resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(17) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 89 Intake Manifold Tightening Sequence
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 73
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)