Wheel bearing DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Service Manual

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Differential Cracked 1. Improper adjustment of the
differential bearings.1. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage. Set
differential bearing pre-load properly.
2. Excessive ring gear backlash. 2. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage. Set
ring gear backlash properly.
3. Vehicle overloaded. 3. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Avoid excessive vehicle weight.
4. Erratic clutch operation. 4. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Avoid erratic use of clutch.
Differential Gears Scored 1. Insufficient lubrication. 1. Replace scored gears. Fill
differential with the correct fluid type
and quantity.
2. Improper grade of lubricant. 2. Replace scored gears. Fill
differential with the correct fluid type
and quantity.
3. Excessive spinning of one
wheel/tire.3. Replace scored gears. Inspect all
gears, pinion bores, and shaft for
damage. Service as necessary.
Loss Of Lubricant 1. Lubricant level too high. 1. Drain lubricant to the correct level.
2. Worn axle shaft seals. 2. Replace seals.
3. Cracked differential housing. 3. Repair as necessary.
4. Worn pinion seal. 4. Replace seal.
5. Worn/scored yoke. 5. Replace yoke and seal.
6. Axle cover not properly sealed. 6. Remove, clean, and re-seal cover.
Axle Overheating 1. Lubricant level low. 1. Fill differential to correct level.
2. Improper grade of lubricant. 2. Fill differential with the correct fluid
type and quantity.
3. Bearing pre-loads too high. 3. Re-adjust bearing pre-loads.
4. Insufficient ring gear backlash. 4. Re-adjust ring gear backlash.
Gear Teeth Broke 1. Overloading. 1. Replace gears. Examine other
gears and bearings for possible
damage.
2. Erratic clutch operation. 2. Replace gears and examine the
remaining parts for damage. Avoid
erratic clutch operation.
3. Ice-spotted pavement. 3. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage.
4. Improper adjustments. 4. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage. Ensure
ring gear backlash is correct.
3 - 142 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA (Continued)

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct fluid
type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion contact
pattern. Adjust backlash or pinion
depth.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched ring
gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out. Replace
components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components and
replace as necessary. Ensure that the
bearing caps are torqued tot he
proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a lifting device under axle and secure
lift to the axle.
(3) Remove wheels and tires assemblies.
(4) Remove all brake components.
(5) Mark propeller shaft and companion flange for
installation alignment reference.
(6) Remove propeller shaft.
(7) Remove shock absorbers from axle (Fig. 1).
(8) Remove U-bolts from axle (Fig. 2).(9) Remove axle from the vehicle.
Fig. 1 SHOCK ABSORBER
1 - NUT
2 - AXLE
3 - SHOCK ABSORBER
Fig. 2 REAR SPRING
1 - LEAF SPRING
2 - PLATE
3 - NUTS
4 - FRONT NUT & BOLT
5 - SPRING CLAMP BOLTS
6 - SHACKLES
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 143
REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Raise axle with lift and align to the leaf spring
centering bolts.
(2) Install axle U-bolts and tighten to 149 N´m
(110 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install shock absorbers to axle and tighten to
specification.
(4) Install all brake components.
(5) Align propeller shaft and pinion companion
flange reference marks and tighten companion flange
bolts to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the wheels and tires.
(7) Fill differential to specifications.
(8) Remove lift from axle and lower the vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched
sets. Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with a select shim, located between the rear
pinion bearing and pinion gear head.
PINION DEPTH MEASUREMENT AND ADJUSTMENT
Measurements are taken with pinion bearing cups
and pinion bearings installed in the housing. Take
measurements with Pinion Gauge Set and Dial Indi-
cator C-3339 (Fig. 3).(1) Assemble Pinion Height Block 6739, Pinion
Block 8897 and rear pinion bearing onto Screw 6741
(Fig. 3).
(2) Insert assembled height gauge components,
rear bearing and screw into the housing through pin-
ion bearing cups (Fig. 4).
(3) Install front pinion bearing and Cone-nut 6740
onto the screw. Tighten cone-nut until Torque To
Rotate the screw is 1.7-2.26 N´m (15-20 in. lbs.) (Fig.
3).
(4) Place Arbor Discs 8289 on Arbor D-115-3 in
position in the housing side bearing cradles (Fig. 5).
(5) Install differential bearing caps on arbor discs
and snug the bearing cap bolts. Then cross tighten
cap bolts to 281 N´m (207 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Arbor should rotate freely in the arbor discs.
(6) Assemble Dial Indicator C-3339 into Scooter
Block D-115-2 and secure set screw.
(7) Position Scooter Block/Dial Indicator flush on
the pinion height block. Hold scooter block and zero
the dial indicator.
(8) Slowly slide the scooter block across the pinion
height block over to the arbor (Fig. 6). Move the
scooter block till dial indicator crests the arbor, then
record the highest reading.
(9) Select a shim equal to the dial indicator read-
ing.
(10) Install the select shim between the rear pin-
ion bearing and the pinion gear head.
Fig. 3 PINION GEAR DEPTH GAUGE TOOLS
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
2 - ARBOR
3 - PINION HEIGHT BLOCK
4 - CONE
5 - SCREW
6 - PINION BLOCK
7 - SCOOTER BLOCK
8 - ARBOR DISC
Fig. 4 PINION HEIGHT BLOCK
1 - PINION BLOCK
2 - PINION HEIGHT BLOCK
3 - 144 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA (Continued)

(4) Remove hub bearing nut with Socket 8954.
(5) Remove hub and bearings from the axle.
(6) Pry out hub bearing seal from the back of the
hub.
NOTE: The inner part of the seal may stay on the
axle tube (Fig. 20). This part must also be removed.
(7) Remove rear bearing.
(8) Remove hub bearing cups with a hammer and
drift.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install outer hub bearing cup with Installer
8961 and Handle C-4171.
(2) Install inner hub bearing cup with Installer
8153 and Handle C-4171.
(3) Pack bearings with the appropriate wheel bear-
ing grease.
(4) Install rear bearing and installnewgrease
seal with Installer 8963 and Handle C-4171.
(5) Slide hub on the axle tube and install front
bearing into the hub.
(6) Install hub bearing nut with Socket 8954 and
tighten to 30 N´m (22 ft. lbs.) while rotating the hub
(Fig. 21).
(7) Back off nut about 30É and align next hub nut
key slot with axle tube key slot and install locking
key.
NOTE: End play should be 0.025-0.25 mm
(0.01-0.001 in.)
(8) Install retainer ring with ring end in the key
slot.
(9) Install new axle shaft gasket and install the
axle shaft.
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove axle shafts.
(2) Mark the propeller shaft and pinion flange for
installation reference.
(3) Remove propeller shaft.
(4) Rotate pinion gear three or four times.
(5) Measure and record the amount of torque nec-
essary to rotate the pinion gear with an inch pound
torque wrench (Fig. 22).
(6) Hold pinion flange with Flange Wrench 8979
(Fig. 23) and remove pinion flange nut.Fig. 20 INNER PART OF SEAL
1-PRYBAR
2 - AXLE TUBE
3 - REMAINING SEAL
Fig. 21 HUB NUT SOCKET
1 - SOCKET
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 22 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - PINION FLANGE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 153
AXLE BEARINGS (Continued)

(5) Slide differential case toward the pinion gear
until the gears make contact/zero backlash. If zero
backlash cannot be obtained, turn the pinion side
adjuster until zero backlash is obtained.
(6) Holding the differential case toward the pinion
gear, turn bearing adjusters with Spanner Wrench
8883 until they make contact with the differential
bearings/cups.
(7) Back off the ring gear side adjuster 4 holes, to
obtain initial ring gear backlash.
(8) Install ring gear side adjuster lock and bolt. Do
not tighten adjuster lock bolt at this time.
(9) Tighten pinion gear side adjuster firmly
against the differential case bearing cup.
(10) Rotate the pinion several times to seat the dif-
ferential bearings.
(11) Loosen pinion gear side adjuster until it is no
longer in contact with the bearing cup.
(12) Tighten pinion gear side adjuster until it just
makes contact with the bearing cup.
(13) Tighten pinion gear side adjuster an addi-
tional:
²New Bearings6 Adjuster Holes
²Original Bearings4 Adjuster Holes
(14) Install pinion gear side adjuster lock and bolt.
Do not tighten adjuster lock bolt at this time.
(15) Tighten bearing cap bolts to 281 N´m (207 ft.
lbs.).
(16) Tighten adjuster lock bolts to 25 N´m (18 ft.
lbs.) (Fig. 37).
(17) Measure ring gear backlash and check gear
tooth contact pattern. Refer to Adjustments for pro-
cedure.
(18) Install axle shaft gasket and install axle
shafts.
(19) Install differential housing gasket and cover.
Tighten cover bolts to 40 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(20) Fill axle with lubricant, refer to Lubrication &
Maintenance for capacity and lubricant type.
(21) Install fill plug and tighten to 32 N´m (24 ft.
lbs.).
DIFFERENTIAL TRAC-RITE
DESCRIPTION
The Trac-RiteŸ differential is a helical gear differ-
ential. The differential has two side gears, six pinion
gears and six pinion brake shoes.
NOTE: The differential is seviced as an assembly
only if damaged, but can be disassembled for
cleaning. The assembly should be cleaned every
time a bearing is changed due to damage.
OPERATION
When one wheel begins to spin the pinion gears on
that side are forced toward the pinion brake shoes.
The pinion brake shoes then cause frictional drag on
the opposite pinion gears and the side gear. These
friction forces transfer the power to the opposite
wheel. Once the frictional forces are overcome, differ-
entiation will occur. The torque will be continually
biased by the frictional forces to the high traction
wheel.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove differential ring gear bolts.
(2) Remove differential case cover locating screws
(Fig. 38).
(3) Remove differential case cover.
(4) Remove side gear and thrust washer (Fig. 39).
NOTE: Mark all component locations.
Fig. 37 ADJUSTER LOCK BOLT
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - ADJUSTER LOCK
3 - ADJUSTER LOCK BOLT
4 - BEARING CAP BOLT
3 - 158 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak or
fluid contamination. The leak point could be at a
brake line, fitting, hose, or caliper/wheel cylinder. If
leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around
the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action isto inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve or a
vacuum hose could also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers were overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
NOTE: Bleed procedure should be in this order (1)
Right rear (2) Left rear (3) Right front (4) Left front.(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
(5) Before moving the vehicle verify the pedal is
firm and not mushy.
(6) Top off the brake fluid and install the reservoir
cap.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system.
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKES
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT C-4340
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT
C-3716-A
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install the hydraulic booster and tighten the
mounting nuts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install the booster push rod, washer and clip
onto the brake pedal.
(3) Install the master cylinder on the mounting
studs. and tighten the mounting nuts to 23 N´m (17
ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the brake lines to the master cylinder
and tighten to 19-200 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.).
(5) Install the hydraulic booster line bracket onto
the master cylinder mounting studs.
(6) Install the master cylinder mounting nuts and
tighten to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the hydraulic booster pressure lines to
the bracket and booster.
(8) Tighten the pressure lines to 41 N´m (30 ft.
lbs.).
NOTE: Inspect o-rings on the pressure line fittings
to insure they are in good condition before installa-
tion. Replace o-rings if necessary.
(9) Install the return hose to the booster.
(10) Bleed base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Fill the power steering pump with fluid,
(Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
CAUTION: MOPAR (MS-9602) ATF+4 is to be used in
the power steering system. No other power steering
or automatic transmission fluid is to be used in thesystem. Damage may result to the power steering
pump and system if any other fluid is used, and do
not overfill.
(12) Bleed the hydraulic booster (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/POWER
BRAKE BOOSTER - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DISC BRAKE ROTOR
The rotor braking surfaces should not be refinished
unless necessary.
Light surface rust and scale can be removed with a
lathe equipped with dual sanding discs. The rotor
surfaces can be restored by machining with a disc
brake lathe if surface scoring and wear are light.
Replace the rotor for the following conditions:
²Severely Scored
²Tapered
²Hard Spots
²Cracked
²Below Minimum Thickness
ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if below min-
imum thickness, or if machining would reduce thick-
ness below the allowable minimum.
Rotor minimum thickness is usually specified on
the rotor hub. The specification is either stamped or
cast into the hub surface.
ROTOR RUNOUT
Check rotor lateral runout with dial indicator
C-3339 (Fig. 56). Excessive lateral runout will cause
brake pedal pulsation and rapid, uneven wear of the
brake shoes. Position the dial indicator plunger
approximately 25.4 mm (1 in.) inward from the rotor
edge.
NOTE: Be sure wheel bearing has zero end play
before checking rotor runout.
Maximum allowable rotor runout is 0.127 mm
(0.005 in.).
ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pul-
sation, noise and shudder.
Measure rotor thickness at 6 to 12 points around
the rotor face (Fig. 57).
Fig. 55 HYDRO-BOOST UNIT
1 - INLET HOSE
2 - HYDRO-BOOST UNIT
3 - MASTER CYLINDER UNIT
4 - RETURN HOSE
5 - OUTLET HOSE
5 - 32 BRAKES - BASEDR
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

Position the micrometer approximately 25.4 mm (1
in.) from the rotor outer circumference for each mea-
surement.
Thickness should notvaryby more than 0.015 mm
(0.0059 in.) from point-to-point on the rotor. Machine
or replace the rotor if necessary.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the caliper from the steering knuckle,
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL) and remove
caliper adapter assembly (Fig. 58).
NOTE: Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
adapter assembly.
(4) Remove the rotor from the hub/bearing wheel
studs (Fig. 59) or (Fig. 60).
Fig. 56 Checking Rotor Runout And Thickness
Variation
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
Fig. 57 Measuring Rotor Thickness
1 - MICROMETER
2 - ROTOR
Fig. 58 Caliper Adapter Assembly
1 - KNUCKLE
2 - CALIPER
3 - ROTOR
Fig. 59 FRONT ROTOR
1 - ROTOR
2 - HUB/BEARING
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 33
ROTORS (Continued)