battery replacement DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Service Manual

(5) Disconnect the body wire harness connector for
the side curtain airbag from the connector receptacle
at the back of the airbag inflator.
(6) Remove the four screws (standard cab) or six
screws (quad cab) that secure the side curtain airbag
inflator and manifold tube brackets to the nuts in the
roof rail.
(7) Grasp the extruded plastic side curtain airbag
channel firmly and pull it straight away from the
roof rail far enough to disengage all three (standard
cab) or five (quad cab) plastic push-in fasteners that
secure it.
(8) Remove the side curtain airbag from the vehi-
cle as a unit.
INSTALLATION
The following procedure is for replacement of a
faulty or damaged side curtain airbag. If the airbag
is faulty or damaged, but not deployed, review the
recommended procedures for handling non-deployed
supplemental restraints. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
RESTRAINTS - STANDARD PROCEDURE - HAN-
DLING NON-DEPLOYED SUPPLEMENTAL
RESTRAINTS). If the side curtain airbag has been
deployed, review the recommended procedures for
service after a supplemental restraint deployment
before removing the airbag from the vehicle. (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/RESTRAINTS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE - SERVICE AFTER A SUPPLEMENTAL
RESTRAINT DEPLOYMENT).
WARNING: TO AVOID PERSONAL INJURY OR
DEATH, ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS,
DISABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYS-
TEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING
WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, AIRBAG, SEAT BELT
TENSIONER, IMPACT SENSOR, OR INSTRUMENT
PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE.
DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGA-
TIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES
FOR THE SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE
BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR
SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DIS-
ABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM.
FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS
COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOY-
MENT.WARNING: TO AVOID PERSONAL INJURY OR
DEATH, WHEN REMOVING A DEPLOYED AIRBAG,
RUBBER GLOVES, EYE PROTECTION, AND A
LONG-SLEEVED SHIRT SHOULD BE WORN. THERE
MAY BE DEPOSITS ON THE AIRBAG UNIT AND
OTHER INTERIOR SURFACES. IN LARGE DOSES,
THESE DEPOSITS MAY CAUSE IRRITATION TO THE
SKIN AND EYES.
WARNING: TO AVOID PERSONAL INJURY OR
DEATH, USE EXTREME CARE TO PREVENT ANY
FOREIGN MATERIAL FROM ENTERING THE SIDE
CURTAIN AIRBAG, OR BECOMING ENTRAPPED
BETWEEN THE SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG CUSHION
AND THE HEADLINER. FAILURE TO OBSERVE THIS
WARNING COULD RESULT IN OCCUPANT INJURIES
UPON AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT.
(1) Position the side curtain airbag into the vehicle
as a unit.
(2) Align all three (standard cab) or five (quad cab)
plastic push-in fasteners that secure the extruded
plastic side curtain airbag channel with their holes
in the roof side rail and push them straight into the
roof rail until they are fully seated (Fig. 53).
(3) Working from the rear of the vehicle to the
front, install and tighten the four screws (standard
cab) or six screws (quad cab) that secure the side cur-
tain airbag inflator and manifold tube brackets to the
nuts in the roof rail. Tighten the screws to 5 N´m (40
in. lbs.).
(4) Reconnect the body wire harness connector for
the side curtain airbag to the connector receptacle at
the back of the airbag inflator. Be certain the connec-
tor is fully engaged and latched.
(5) Engage the two side curtain airbag tether plas-
tic retainer clips into the A-pillar.
(6) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
side curtain airbag tether retainer to the base of the
A-pillar near the belt line. Tighten the screw to 6
N´m (55 in. lbs.).
(7) Reinstall the headliner into the vehicle. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/HEADLINER - INSTALLA-
TION).
(8) Do not reconnect the battery negative cable at
this time. The supplemental restraint system verifi-
cation test procedure should be performed following
service of any supplemental restraint system compo-
nent. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/RESTRAINTS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE - VERIFICATION TEST).
8O - 58 RESTRAINTSDR
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG (Continued)

SPECIAL TOOLS
POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS
CIGAR LIGHTER OUTLET
DESCRIPTION
On models equipped a cigar lighter outlet is
installed to the left of the center stack area in the
lower instrument panel. The cigar lighter outlet is
secured by a snap fit within the bezel.
The cigar lighter outlet, plastic cap and the knob
and heating element unit are available for service
replacement. These components cannot be repaired
and, if faulty or damaged, they must be replaced.
OPERATION
The cigar lighter consists of two major components:
a knob and heating element unit, and the cigar
lighter base or outlet shell. The receptacle shell is
connected to ground, and an insulated contact in the
bottom of the shell is connected to battery current.
The cigar lighter receives battery voltage from a fuse
in the junction block when the ignition switch is in
the Accessory or Run positions.
The cigar lighter knob and heating element are
encased within a spring-loaded housing, which also
features a sliding protective heat shield. When the
knob and heating element are inserted in the outlet
shell, the heating element resistor coil is grounded
through its housing to the outlet shell. If the cigar
lighter knob is pushed inward, the heat shield slides
up toward the knob exposing the heating element,
and the heating element extends from the housing
toward the insulated contact in the bottom of the
outlet shell.
Two small spring-clip retainers are located on
either side of the insulated contact inside the bottom
of the outlet shell. These clips engage and hold the
heating element against the insulated contact longenough for the resistor coil to heat up. When the
heating element is engaged with the contact, battery
current can flow through the resistor coil to ground,
causing the resistor coil to heat.
When the resistor coil becomes sufficiently heated,
excess heat radiates from the heating element caus-
ing the spring-clips to expand. Once the spring-clips
expand far enough to release the heating element,
the spring-loaded housing forces the knob and heat-
ing element to pop back outward to their relaxed
position. When the cigar lighter knob and element
are pulled out of the outlet shell, the protective heat
shield slides downward on the housing so that the
heating element is recessed and shielded around its
circumference for safety.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CIGAR LIGHTER
OUTLET
For complete circuit diagrams, refer toWiring
Diagrams.
(1) Check the fused B(+) fuse in the integrated
power module. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair
the shorted circuit or component as required and
replace the faulty fuse.
(2) Turn the ignition switch to the Run position.
Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) fuse in
the integrated power module. If OK, go to Step 3. If
not OK, repair the open or short as required.
(3) Remove the cigar lighter knob and element
from the cigar lighter outlet shell. Check for continu-
ity between the inside circumference of the cigar
lighter outlet shell and a good ground. there should
be continuity. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, go to
Step 5.
(4) Turn the ignition switch to the Run position.
Check for battery voltage at the insulated contact
located at the back of the cigar lighter outlet shell. If
OK, replace the faulty cigar lighter knob and ele-
ment. If not OK, go to Step 5.
(5) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Check for continuity between the ground circuit cav-
ity of the cigar lighter wire harness connector and a
good ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to
Step 6. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to
ground as required.
(6) Connect the battery negative cable. Turn the
ignition switch to the Accessory or Run positions.
Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit
cavity of the cigar lighter wire harness connector. If
OK, replace the faulty cigar lighter outlet. If not OK,
repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the integrated
power module fuse as required.Terminal Pick Kit 6680
8W - 97 - 2 8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTIONDR
POWER DISTRIBUTION (Continued)

(7) Remove access plug from left and right cylinder
heads for access to chain guide fasteners (Fig. 109).
(8) Remove the oil fill housing to gain access to the
right side tensioner arm fastener.
(9) Remove crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL) and timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(10) Collapse and pin primary chain tensioner.
CAUTION: Plate behind left secondary chain ten-
sioner could fall into oil pan. Therefore, cover pan
opening.
(11) Remove secondary chain tensioners.
(12) Remove camshaft position sensor (Fig. 110).
CAUTION: Care should be taken not to damage
camshaft target wheel. Do not hold target wheel
while loosening or tightening camshaft sprocket.
Do not place the target wheel near a magnetic
source of any kind. A damaged or magnetized tar-
get wheel could cause a vehicle no start condition.
CAUTION: Do not forcefully rotate the camshafts or
crankshaft independently of each other. Damaging
intake valve to piston contact will occur. Ensure
negative battery cable is disconnected to guard
against accidental starter engagement.
(13) Remove left and right camshaft sprocket bolts.
(14) While holding the left camshaft steel tube
with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, remove the
left camshaft sprocket. Slowly rotate the camshaft
approximately 5 degrees clockwise to a neutral posi-
tion.(15) While holding the right camshaft steel tube
with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, remove the
right camshaft sprocket.
(16) Remove idler sprocket assembly bolt.
(17) Slide the idler sprocket assembly and crank
sprocket forward simultaneously to remove the pri-
mary and secondary chains.
(18) Remove both pivoting tensioner arms and
chain guides.
(19) Remove primary chain tensioner.
INSPECTION
Inspect the following components:
²Sprockets for excessive tooth wear. Some tooth
markings are normal and not a cause for sprocket
replacement.
²Idler sprocket assembly bushing and shaft for
excessive wear.
²Idler sprocket assembly spline joint. The joint
should be tight with no backlash or axial movement.
²Chain guides and tensioner arms. Replace these
parts if grooving in plastic face is more than 1 mm
(0.039 in.) deep. If plastic face is severely grooved or
melted, the tensioner lube jet may be clogged. The
tensioner should be replaced.
²Secondary chain tensioner piston and ratcheting
device. Inspect for evidence of heavy contact between
tensioner piston and tensioner arm. If this condition
exist the tensioner tensioner arm and chain should
be replaced.
Fig. 109 Cylinder Head Access Plugs
1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
Fig. 110 Camshaft Position Sensor
1 - CYLINDER HEAD
2 - CAMSAHFT POSITION SENSOR
3 - SCREW
9 - 84 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

(6) Apply a bead of MopartSilicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant or equivalent to the gear housing cover
sealing surface.
(7) Install the cover to the gear housing, aligning
the seal pilot with the nose of the crankshaft (Fig.
70).
(8) Install the cover bolts and tighten to 24 N´m
(18 ft. lbs.) torque. Remove pilot tool.
(9) Install dust shield over nose of crankshaft.
(10) Install the crankshaft damper and speed indi-
cator ring. Torque the bolts to 40 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
Then rotate an additional 60É. Use the engine bar-
ring tool to keep the engine from rotating during
tightening operation.
(11) Install the fan support/hub assembly and
torque bolts to 32 N´m (24 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install power steering pump.
(13) Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque
bolt to 43 Nm (32 ft.lbs.).
(14) Install cooling fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(16) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(17) Connect battery negative cables.
(18) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).(3) Remove the clutch cover and disc (if manual
transmission equipped) (Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/
CLUTCH DISC - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
(5) Drill holes 180É apart into the seal. Be careful
not to contact the drill against the crankshaft.
(6) Install #10 sheet metal screws in the drilled
holes and remove the rear seal with a slide hammer
(Fig. 71).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
(1) Clean the crankshaft journal with a suitable
solvent and dry with a clean shop towel or com-
pressed air. Wipe the inside bore of the crankshaft
seal retainer with a clean shop towel.
(2) Inspect the crankshaft journal for gouges,
nicks, or other imperfections. If the seal groove in the
crankshaft is excessively deep, install the new seal
1/8º deeper into the retainer bore, or obtain a crank-
shaft wear sleeve that is available in the aftermar-
ket.
(3) Install the seal pilot and new seal, provided in
the replacement kit, onto the crankshaft.
(4) Remove the seal pilot.
(5) Install the installation tool over crankshaft.
(6) Using a ball peen hammer, strike the tool at
the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions until the align-
ment tool bottoms out on the retainer (Fig. 72).
Fig. 70 Installing Front Cover with Seal Pilot
1 - SEAL PILOT
Fig. 71 Crankshaft Rear Seal Removal
1 - NO. 10 SCREW
2 - REAR SEAL
3 - CRANKSHAFT
4 - SLIDE HAMMER
9 - 276 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Align the holes in the bumpers to the trailer
hitch pins and install the bumper.
(2) Install the support bracket to the hitch bolts,
loosely.
(3) Install the front upper edge to the trailer hitch
bolts and tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the license plate reinforcement to hitch
bolts and tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(5) Tighten the left bumper bracket bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(6) Tighten the right bumper bracket bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(7) Connect the trailer light connector electrical
connection, if equipped.
(8) Connect the license plate light electrical con-
nectors.
(9) Install the license plate.
FRAME
WARNING
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
WARNING: USE EYE PROTECTION WHEN GRIND-
ING OR WELDING METAL, SERIOUS EYE INJURY
CAN RESULT.
²BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH FRAME REPAIR
INVOLVING GRINDING OR WELDING, VERIFY THAT
VEHICLE FUEL SYSTEM IS NOT LEAKING OR IN
CONTACT WITH REPAIR AREA, PERSONAL INJURY
CAN RESULT.
²DO NOT ALLOW OPEN FLAME OR HEAT AND
METAL SPATTER FROM ARC WELDING, TO CON-
TACT PLASTIC BODY PANELS. FIRE OR EXPLO-
SION CAN RESULT.
²WHEN WELDED FRAME COMPONENTS ARE
REPLACED, ENSURE COMPLETE PENETRATION
WELD IS ACHIEVED DURING INSTALLATION. IF
NOT, DANGEROUS OPERATING CONDITIONS CAN
RESULT.
²STAND CLEAR OF CABLES OR CHAINS ON
PULLING EQUIPMENT DURING FRAME STRAIGHT-
ENING OPERATIONS, PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT.
²DO NOT VENTURE UNDER A HOISTED VEHI-
CLE THAT IS NOT SUPPORTED ON SAFETY
STANDS, PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION: 1500 series Dodge Ram Trucks (2002 and
later) are not designed for snow plow equipment.The front collision repair tips must not be installed
on any truck equipped with a snow plow, or even
intended to be equipped with a snow plow.
CAUTION: Do not reuse damaged fasteners, quality
of repair would be suspect. Failure to use only pro-
duction fasteners or fasteners of equivalent hard-
ness can result in loosening or failure. Do not drill
any holes in the frame that are not specifically out-
lined in this or other, DaimlerChrysler procedure as
frame rail failure can result. When using heat to
straighten frame components do not exceed 566ÉC
(1050ÉF), metal fatigue can result.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - LIGHT DUTY FRONT
FRAME RAIL TIP REPLACEMENT
CAUTION: This procedure is designed to replace
the front frame rail tips that have been damaged in
the crush initiator zones. Prior to any cutting, the
vehicle must be mounted on the appropriate frame
repair equipment (ªframe rackº), checked with three
dimensional measuring equipment, and the neces-
sary pull corrections made. If damage remains in
the frame beyond the area covered by this service
part after the pull, the frame must be replaced in its
entirety.
NOTE: Procedures for 4X2 and 4X4 are common
except as noted in this procedure.
(1) Before proceding with this repair procedure
review the required service warnings and precau-
tions. (Refer to 13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME -
WARNING)
(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(3) Remove the front wheelhouse splash shield.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEEL-
HOUSE SPLASH SHIELD - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the bolts and position aside the wire
harness and grounds, if required.
(5) Remove the front bumper. (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/FRONT BUMPER
- REMOVAL)
(6) Loosen and lower the stabilizer bar mount and
bar. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/STABI-
LIZER BAR - REMOVAL)
13 - 4 FRAMES & BUMPERSDR
REAR BUMPER (Continued)

(14) Remove the bolts attaching the lower radiator
crossmember to the hydroform fender rail. (Fig. 18)
CAUTION: Do not use any flame or plasma cutting
equipment to cut the frame in this procedure. The
inaccurate and high temperatures achieved during
flame or plasma cutting will change the metal char-
acteristics and may weaken the frame and/or repair
location.
(15) Using a reciprocating saw or equivalent, cut
the fender rail and shotgun at a straight and square
section of the hydroform and remove.
(16) Smooth and square the cut edges.
(17) Using the damaged structure as a reference
cut the service part at the same location as the first
cut. Smooth and square the cut edges.
NOTE: The repair structure should butt up to the
remaining structure and provide the same overall
vehicle geometry.
(18) Fabricate 51 mm (2.0 in.) long repair inserts
using scrap from the old structure or the replacement
part. It will be necessary to split the inserts on each
of their four sides to fit into the hydroform.
(19) Remove any paint or e-coat from the inserts
and also to the interior and exterior of the hydro-
forms.
(20) Cut plug weld holes as described below.
²On the upper rail, cut one 13 mm (0.5 in.) hole
on each side of the rail, 25 mm (1.0 in.) from the butt
joint of the tubes.
²On the lower rail, cut one 13 mm (0.5 in.) hole
on the top and bottom sides of the rail 25 mm (1.0
in.) from the butt joint of the tube.
²On the lower rail, cut two 13 mm (0.5 in.) holes
on the inner and outer sides of the rail 25 mm (1.0
in.) from the butt joint of the tube.
CAUTION: Shield the surrounding area and compo-
nents from exposure to the welding spatter and
heat.
(21) Install the insert 1º into the replacement part
and tack into place with a weld. (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME - SPECIFICATIONS -
WELDING)
(22) Insert the service part into place and using
the appropriate measuring equipment, verify the
front end sheet metal bracket's location in all three
(X,Y, and Z) planes of space. (Fig. 19)
(23) Complete all 360É plug welds.
NOTE: Before the final welding, use three dimen-
sional measuring equipment to ensure the part is in
the correct location. Verify that tap plate extrusion
at the bottom of the vertical post lines up with theisolator and hole in the frame perch mount. Also
ensure the lower radiator closure tube is bolted into
the forward shotgun ends.
(24) Complete welding by making a 360É butt weld
around the fender rails.
(25) Metal finish the exposed welds on the hydro-
forms.
(26) Dress the welded area and apply corrosion
resistant coatings inside and out.
(a) Inside the rail, inject a creeping wax based
rust inhibitor compound to the inside of the hydro-
forms ensuring 100% coverage including the mat-
ing face between the fender rail sections and insert
such that corrosion protection is restored in the
internal cavity.
(b) Apply a durable top coat to the outside of the
repair area.
(27) Install the front cab mount bolt if previously
removed and tighten to 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.).
(28) Install the lower radiator crossmember bolts
and tighten to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(29) Install the headlamp unit. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/HEAD-
LAMP UNIT - INSTALLATION)
(30) Install the upper radiator crossmember. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/UPPER RADIATOR
CROSSMEMBER - INSTALLATION)
(31) Install the wire harness and ground if previ-
ously removed and install the bolts.
(32) Install the integrated power module, if previ-
ously removed. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/POWER
DISTRIBUTION/INTEGRATED POWER MODULE -
INSTALLATION)
(33) Install the air cleaner bracket and air cleaner,
if previously removed. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER ELEMENT -
INSTALLATION)
(34) Install the radiator assembly. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION)
(35) Install the A/C lines, if previously removed.
Refer to the Heating and Air Conditioning section of
the manual for the recommended procedures.
(36) Install the A/C condenser, if previously
removed. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING/A/C CONDENSER - INSTAL-
LATION)
(37) Install the fender. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTE-
RIOR/FRONT FENDER - INSTALLATION)
(38) Install the front wheelhouse splash shield.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEEL-
HOUSE SPLASH SHIELD - INSTALLATION)
(39) Reconnect the battery ground.
13 - 12 FRAMES & BUMPERSDR
FRAME (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - REAR FRAME
H-SECTION REPLACEMENT
CAUTION: This procedure is designed to replace
the H-section/spare tire support located at the rear
of the frame assembly. Prior to any cutting, the
vehicle must be mounted on the appropriate frame
repair equipment (ªframe rackº), checked with three
dimensional measuring equipment, and the neces-
sary pull corrections made. If damage remains in
the frame beyond the area covered by this service
part after the pull, the frame must be replaced in its
entirety.
(1) Before proceding with this repair procedure
review the required service warnings and precau-
tions. (Refer to 13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME -
WARNING)
(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(3) Remove the cargo box. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/CARGO BOX - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the trailer hitch. (Refer to 13 - FRAME
& BUMPERS/FRAME/TRAILER HITCH -
REMOVAL)
(5) Raise and support the frame so the tires are off
floor.(6) Remove the shock absorbers. (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/REAR/SHOCK - REMOVAL)
(7) Remove the rear leaf spring shackle bolts and
let the axle rest on the ground. (Fig. 20)
(8) Remove the spare wheel.
Fig. 19 ENGINE COMPARTMENT/FRONT STRUCTURE
Fig. 20 REAR SPRING
1 - SPRING SHACKLE
2 - LEAF SPRING EYE BOLT/NUT
3 - REAR LEAF SPRING
DRFRAMES & BUMPERS 13 - 13
FRAME (Continued)

FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT /
SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The fuel gauge sending unit (fuel level sensor) is
attached to the side of the fuel tank module. The
sending unit consists of a float, an arm, and a vari-
able resistor track (card).
OPERATION
The fuel tank module on diesel powered models
has 2 different circuits (wires). Two of these circuits
are used at the fuel gauge sending unit for fuel
gauge operation. The diesel engine does not have a
fuel tank module mounted electric fuel pump. The
electric fuel pump (fuel transfer pump) is mounted to
the engine.
For Fuel Gauge Operation:A constant input
voltage source of about 12 volts (battery voltage) is
supplied to the resistor track on the fuel gauge send-
ing unit. This is fed directly from the Engine Control
Module (ECM).NOTE: For diagnostic purposes,
this 12V power source can only be verified with
the circuit opened (fuel tank module electrical
connector unplugged). With the connectors
plugged, output voltages will vary from about .6
volts at FULL, to about 7.0 volts at EMPTY.The
resistor track is used to vary the voltage (resistance)
depending on fuel tank float level. As fuel level
increases, the float and arm move up, which
decreases voltage. As fuel level decreases, the float
and arm move down, which increases voltage. The
varied voltage signal is returned back to the ECM
through the sensor return circuit.
Both of the electrical circuits between the fuel
gauge sending unit and the ECM are hard-wired (not
multi-plexed). After the voltage signal is sent from
the resistor track, and back to the ECM, the ECM
will interpret the resistance (voltage) data and send
a message across the multi-plex bus circuits to the
instrument panel cluster. Here it is translated into
the appropriate fuel gauge level reading. Refer to
Instrument Panel for additional information.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
For diesel removal and installation procedures,
refer to the gas section of Fuel System/Fuel Delivery.
See Fuel Level Sending Unit/Sensor Removal/Instal-
lation.
FUEL LINES
DESCRIPTION
Low-Pressure Lines Are:
²the fuel supply line from fuel tank to fuel trans-
fer (lift) pump.
²the fuel return line back to fuel tank.
²the fuel drain (manifold) line at rear of cylinder
head.
²the fuel supply line from fuel filter to fuel injec-
tion pump.
²the fuel injection pump return line.
High-Pressure Lines Are:
²the fuel line from fuel injection pump to fuel
rail.
²the 6 fuel lines from fuel rail up to injector con-
nector tubes
WARNING: HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINES DELIVER
DIESEL FUEL UNDER EXTREME PRESSURE FROM
THE INJECTION PUMP TO THE FUEL INJECTORS.
THIS MAY BE AS HIGH AS 160,000 KPA (23,206
PSI). USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN INSPECTING
FOR HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LEAKS. INSPECT FOR
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LEAKS WITH A SHEET OF
CARDBOARD. HIGH FUEL INJECTION PRESSURE
CAN CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY IF CONTACT IS
MADE WITH THE SKIN.
OPERATION
High-Pressure Lines
CAUTION: The high-pressure fuel lines must be
held securely in place in their holders. The lines
cannot contact each other or other components. Do
not attempt to weld high-pressure fuel lines or to
repair lines that are damaged. If lines are ever
kinked or bent, they must be replaced. Use only the
recommended lines when replacement of high-pres-
sure fuel line is necessary.
High-pressure fuel lines deliver fuel (under pres-
sure) of up to approximately 160,000 kPa (23,206
PSI) from the injection pump to the fuel injectors.
The lines expand and contract from the high-pres-
sure fuel pulses generated during the injection pro-
cess. All high-pressure fuel lines are of the same
length and inside diameter. Correct high-pressure
fuel line usage and installation is critical to smooth
engine operation.
DRFUEL DELIVERY - DIESEL 14 - 57

WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN
INSPECTING FOR HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LEAKS.
INSPECT FOR HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LEAKS WITH
A SHEET OF CARDBOARD. HIGH FUEL INJECTION
PRESSURE CAN CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY IF
CONTACT IS MADE WITH THE SKIN.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HIGH-PRESSURE
FUEL LINE LEAKS
High-pressure fuel line leaks can cause starting
problems and poor engine performance.
WARNING: DUE TO EXTREME FUEL PRESSURES
OF UP TO 160,000 kPa (23,206 PSI), USE EXTREME
CAUTION WHEN INSPECTING FOR HIGH-PRES-
SURE FUEL LEAKS. DO NOT GET YOUR HAND OR
A FINGER NEAR A SUSPECTED LEAK. INSPECT
FOR HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LEAKS WITH A SHEET
OF CARDBOARD. HIGH FUEL INJECTION PRES-
SURE CAN CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY IF CON-
TACT IS MADE WITH THE SKIN.
Start the engine. Move the cardboard (Fig. 13) over
the suspected high-pressure fuel line leak, and check
for fuel spray onto the cardboard. If line is leaking,
retorque line. Replace damaged, restricted or leaking
high-pressure fuel lines with the correct replacement
line.
CAUTION: The high-pressure fuel lines must be
clamped securely in place in the holders. The lines
cannot contact each other or other components. Do
not attempt to weld high-pressure fuel lines or to
repair lines that are damaged. Only use the recom-
mended lines when replacement of high-pressure
fuel line is necessary.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Cleanliness cannot be overemphasized
when handling or replacing diesel fuel system com-
ponents. This especially includes the fuel injectors,
high-pressure fuel lines and fuel injection pump.
Very tight tolerances are used with these parts. Dirt
contamination could cause rapid part wear and pos-
sible plugging of fuel injector nozzle tip holes. This
in turn could lead to possible engine misfire.
Always wash/clean any fuel system component
thoroughly before disassembly and then air dry.
Cap or cover any open part after disassembly.
Before assembly, examine each part for dirt, grease
or other contaminants and clean if necessary. When
installing new parts, lubricate them with clean
engine oil or clean diesel fuel only.
(1) Disconnect both negative battery cables from
both batteries. Cover and isolate ends of cables.(2) Thoroughly clean fuel lines at both ends.
(3) If removing fuel line at either #1 or #2 cylinder,
the intake manifold air heater elements must first be
removed from top of intake manifold. Refer to Intake
Air Heater Removal / Installation for procedures.
(4) If removing fuel line at #6 cylinder, a bracket
(Fig. 14) is located above fuel line connection at cyl-
inder head. Two bolts secure this bracket to rear of
cylinder head. The upper bolt hole is slotted. Loosen
(but do not remove) these 2 bracket bolts. Tilt
bracket down to gain access to #6 fuel line connec-
tion.
(5) Remove engine lift bracket (if necessary).
(6) Remove necessary insulated fuel line support
clamps (Fig. 15) and bracket bolts at intake manifold.
DO NOT remove insulators from fuel lines.
(7) Place shop towels around fuel lines at fuel rail
and injectors. If possible, do not allow fuel to drip
down side of engine.
CAUTION: WHEN LOOSENING OR TIGHTENING
HIGH-PRESSURE LINES ATTACHED TO A SEPA-
RATE FITTING (Fig. 16) , USE A BACK-UP WRENCH
ON FITTING. DO NOT ALLOW FITTING TO ROTATE.
DAMAGE TO BOTH FUEL LINE AND FITTING WILL
RESULT.
(8) Carefully remove each fuel line from engine.
Note position of each while removing.Do not bend
lines while removing.
Fig. 13 TYPICAL TEST FOR LEAKS USING
CARDBOARD
1 - HIGH-PRESSURE LINE
2 - CARDBOARD
3 - TYPICAL HIGH-PRESSURE FITTING
14 - 58 FUEL DELIVERY - DIESELDR
FUEL LINES (Continued)

and coil are the only serviced parts on the compres-
sor.
A/C compressor clutch engagement is controlled by
several components: the A/C-heater control, A/C pres-
sure transducer, A/C compressor clutch relay, evapo-
rator temperature sensor and the powertrain control
module (PCM). The PCM may delay compressor
clutch engagement for up to thirty seconds (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC CONTROL MOD-
ULES/POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE -
DESCRIPTION).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - A/C COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH COIL
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, (Refer to
Appropriate Wiring Information). The battery must
be fully-charged before performing the following
tests. Refer to Battery for more information.
(1) Connect an ammeter (0 to 10 ampere scale) in
series with the clutch coil terminal. Use a voltmeter
(0 to 20 volt scale) with clip-type leads for measuring
the voltage across the battery and the compressor
clutch coil.
(2) With the A/C-heater controls in any A/C mode,
and the blower motor switch in the lowest speed
position, start the engine and run it at normal idle.
(3) The compressor clutch coil voltage should read
within 0.2 volts of the battery voltage. If there is
voltage at the clutch coil, but the reading is not
within 0.2 volts of the battery voltage, test the clutch
coil feed circuit for excessive voltage drop and repair
as required. If there is no voltage reading at the
clutch coil, use a DRB IIItscan tool and (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information) for testing of thecompressor clutch circuit and PCM control. The fol-
lowing components must be checked and repaired as
required before you can complete testing of the clutch
coil:
²Fuses in the junction block and the power distri-
bution center (PDC)
²A/C-heater control
²A/C compressor clutch relay
²A/C pressure transducer
²Evaporator temperature sensor
²Powertrain control module (PCM)
(4) The compressor clutch coil is acceptable if the
current draw measured at the clutch coil is within
specifications with the electrical system voltage at
11.5 to 12.5 volts (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING - SPECIFICATIONS). This should
only be checked with the work area temperature at
21É C (70É F). If system voltage is more than 12.5
volts, add electrical loads by turning on electrical
accessories until the system voltage drops below 12.5
volts.
(a) If the clutch coil current reading is above
specifications, the coil is shorted and should be
replaced.
(b) If the clutch coil current reading is zero, the
coil is open and should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - A/C COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH BREAK-IN
After a new compressor clutch has been installed,
cycle the compressor clutch approximately twenty
times (five seconds on, then five seconds off). During
this procedure, set the A/C-heater control to the
Recirculation Mode, the blower motor switch in the
highest speed position, and the engine speed at 1500
to 2000 rpm. This procedure (burnishing) will seat
the opposing friction surfaces and provide a higher
compressor clutch torque capability.
REMOVAL
The refrigerant system can remain fully-charged
during compressor clutch, rotor, or coil replacement.
The compressor clutch can be serviced in the vehicle.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the serpentine drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect the compressor clutch coil wire har-
ness connector.
(4) Remove the bolts that secure the compressor to
the mounting bracket.
(5) Remove the compressor from the mounting
bracket. Support the compressor in the engine com-
partment while servicing the clutch.
Fig. 1 Compressor Clutch - Typical
1 - CLUTCH PLATE
2 - SHAFT KEY (not used on KJ)
3 - ROTOR
4 - COIL
5 - CLUTCH SHIMS
6 - SNAP RING
7 - SNAP RING
24 - 10 CONTROLSDR
A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH/COIL (Continued)