One DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

(6) Tighten the bolts in sequence (Fig. 23) using
the following steps and torque values:
²Step 1: Tighten bolts 1±10, 20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.).
²Step 2: Tighten bolts 1±10, 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.).
Tighten bolts 11±14, 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
²Step 3: Tighten bolts 1±10, 90 degrees. Tighten
bolts 11±14, 30 N´m (22 ft. lbs.).
(7) Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft
drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on
either side of the V8 mark on the gear and position
the gear onto the camshaft.
(8) Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
(9) Install the right side secondary chain guide
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the right side cylinder head access
plug (Fig. 24).(11) Re-set and install the right side secondary
chain tensioner.
(12) Remove Special Tool 8515.
(13) Install the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install the crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(15) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(16) Install the fan shroud.
(17) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(18) Install the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).
(19) Install oil fill housing onto cylinder head.
(20) Refill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(21) Raise the vehicle.
(22) Install the exhaust pipe onto the right
exhaust manifold.
(23) Lower the vehicle.
(24) Reconnect battery negitive cable.
(25) Start the engine and check for leaks.
CAMSHAFT(S) - LEFT
DESCRIPTION
The camshafts consist of powdered metal steel
lobes which are sinter-bonded to a steel tube. A steel
post or nose piece is friction-welded to the steel cam-
shaft tube. Five bearing journals are machined into
Fig. 22 Proper Tool Usage for
1 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
Fig. 23 Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence
Fig. 24 Cylinder Head Access Plugs
1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
9 - 114 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

the camshaft, four on the steel tube and one on the
steel nose piece. Camshaft end play is controlled by
two thrust walls that border the nose piece journal.
Engine oil enters the hollow camshafts at the third
journal and lubricates every intake lobe rocker
through a drilled passage in the intake lobe.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and
the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT force-
fully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft indepen-
dently of each other. Severe valve and/or piston
damage can occur.
CAUTION: When removing the cam sprocket, timing
chains or camshaft, Failure to use Special Tool
8350 will result in hydraulic tensioner ratchet over
extension, requiring timing chain cover removal to
reset the tensioner ratchet.
(1) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Set engine to TDC cylinder #1, camshaft
sprocket V8 marks at the 12 o'clock position.
(3) Mark one link on the secondary timing chain
on both sides of the V8 mark on the camshaft
sprocket to aid in installation.CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft tar-
get wheel (Located on the right side camshaft
sprocket) for any reason, Severe damage will occur
to the target wheel resulting in a vehicle no start
condition.
(4) Loosen butDO NOTremove the camshaft
sprocket retaining bolt. Leave the bolt snug against
the sprocket.
NOTE: The timing chain tensioners must be
secured prior to removing the camshaft sprockets.
Failure to secure tensioners will allow the tension-
ers to extend, requiring timing chain cover removal
in order to reset tensioners.
CAUTION: Do not force wedge past the narrowest
point between the chain strands. Damage to the
tensioners may occur.
(5) Position Special Tool 8350 timing chain wedge
between the timing chain strands, tap the tool to
securely wedge the timing chain against the ten-
sioner arm and guide (Fig. 25).
NOTE: When gripping the camshaft, place the pliers
on the tube portion of the camshaft only. Do not
grip the lobes or the sprocket areas.
Fig. 25 Securing Timing Chain Tensioners Using Timing Chain Wedge
1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD3 - SPECIAL TOOL 8350 WEDGE
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 8350 WEDGE
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 115
CAMSHAFT(S) - LEFT (Continued)

CAMSHAFT(S) - RIGHT
DESCRIPTION
The camshafts consist of powdered metal steel lobes
which are sinter-bonded to a steel tube. A steel post or
nose piece is friction-welded to the steel camshaft tube.
Five bearing journals are machined into the camshaft,
four on the steel tube and one on the steel nose piece.
Camshaft end play is controlled by two thrust walls
that border the nose piece journal. Engine oil enters the
hollow camshafts at the third journal and lubricates
every intake lobe rocker through a drilled passage in
the intake lobe.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and
the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT force-
fully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft indepen-
dently of each other. Severe valve and/or piston
damage can occur.
CAUTION: When removing the cam sprocket, timing
chains or camshaft, Failure to use special tool 8350
will result in hydraulic tensioner ratchet over exten-
sion, Requiring timing chain cover removal to re-set
the tensioner ratchet.(1) Remove the cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Set engine to TDC cylinder #1, camshaft
sprocket V8 marks at the 12 o'clock position.
(3) Mark one link on the secondary timing chain
on both sides of the V8 mark on the camshaft
sprocket to aid in installation.
CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft tar-
get wheel for any reason, Severe damage will occur
to the target wheel. A damaged target wheel could
cause a vehicle no start condition.
(4)
Loosen butDO NOTremove the camshaft
sprocket retaining bolt. Leave bolt snug against sprocket.
NOTE: The timing chain tensioners must be
secured prior to removing the camshaft sprockets.
Failure to secure tensioners will allow the tension-
ers to extend, requiring timing chain cover removal
in order to reset tensioners.
CAUTION: Do not force wedge past the narrowest
point between the chain strands. Damage to the
tensioners may occur.
(5) Position Special Tool 8350 timing chain wedge
between the timing chain strands. Tap the tool to
securely wedge the timing chain against the ten-
sioner arm and guide (Fig. 32).
Fig. 32 Securing Timing Chain Tensioners Using Timing Chain Wedge
1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD3 - SPECIAL TOOL 8350 WEDGE
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 8350 WEDGE
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 119

REMOVAL
NOTE: The cylinder heads must be removed in
order to perform this procedure.
(1) Remove rocker arms and lash adjusters(Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL). (Fig. 41).
(2) Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the
camshaft.
NOTE: All six valve springs and valves are removed
in the same manner; this procedure only covers
one valve and valve spring.
(3) Using Special Tool C-3422±B or C-3422±C
Valve Spring Compressor and Special tool 8519
Adapter, compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the
valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks
enough to be removed.
(4) Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care
when releasing the valve spring compressor.
(5) Remove the valve spring compressor.
(6) Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.NOTE: Check for sharp edges on the keeper
grooves. Remove any burrs from the valve stem
before removing the valve from the cylinder head.
(7) Remove the valve from the cylinder head.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between
intake and exhaust.
(8) Remove the valve stem seal. Mark the valve for
proper installation.
TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
NOTE: Whenever the valves are removed from the
cylinder head it is recommended that the valve
springs be inspected and tested for reuse.
Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear
or damage. Turn table of tool C-647 until surface is
in line with the 40.12 mm (1.579 in.) mark on the
threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place
spring over the stud on the table and lift compress-
ing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench
until a Ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench
at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This
will give the spring load at test length. Fractional
measurements are indicated on the table for finer
adjustments. Refer to Specifications Section to obtain
specified height and allowable tensions. Replace any
springs that do not meet specifications (Fig. 42).
INSTALLATION
(1) coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and
insert it into the cylinder head.
(2) Install the valve stem seal. make sure the seal
is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top
of the seal is intact.
Fig. 41 Rocker Arm Removal
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8516
Fig. 42 Testing Valve Springs
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-647
9 - 124 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster.
Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at
least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
REMOVAL
NOTE: Disconnect the battery negative cable to pre-
vent accidental starter engagement.
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) For rocker arm removal on cylinders 3 and 5
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
exhaust stroke.
(3) For rocker arm removal on cylinders 2 and 8
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
compression stroke.
(4) For rocker arm removal on cylinders 4 and 6
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #3 is at TDC
compression stroke.
(5) For rocker arm removal on cylinders 1 and 7
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #2 is at TDC
compression stroke.
(6) Using special tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover,
press downward on the valve spring, remove rocker
arm (Fig. 45).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Make sure the rocker arms are installed
with the concave pocket over the lash adjusters.
Failure to do so may cause severe damage to the
rocker arms and/or lash adjusters.
NOTE: Coat the rocker arms with clean engine oil
prior to installation.
(1) For rocker arm installation on cylinders 3 and
5 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
exhaust stroke.
(2) For rocker arm installation on cylinders 2 and
8 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
compression stroke.
(3) For rocker arm installation on cylinders 4 and
6 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #3 is at TDC
compression stroke.
(4) For rocker arm installation on cylinders 1 and
7 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #2 is at TDC
compression stroke.
(5) Using special tool 8516 press downward on the
valve spring, install rocker arm (Fig. 45).
(6) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
VALVE SPRINGS
DESCRIPTION
The valve springs are made from high strength
chrome silicon steel. The springs are common for
intake and exhaust applications. The valve spring
seat is integral with the valve stem seal, which is a
positive type seal to control lubrication.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Using Special Tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover,
remove the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters (Fig. 46).
(3) Remove the spark plug for the cylinder the
valve spring and seal are to be removed from.
(4) Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the
valves in place when the spring is removed
(5) Remove the camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT(S) - REMOVAL).
NOTE: All eight valve springs and seals are
removed in the same manner; this procedure only
covers one valve seal and valve spring.
Fig. 45 Rocker ArmÐRemoval
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8516
9 - 126 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSEMBLY (Continued)

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block
is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an
enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to
the block. The block design allows coolant flow
between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant
bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included
in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 48).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 49).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
Fig. 48 CYLINDER BORE CROSSHATCH PATTERN
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 128 ENGINE - 4.7LDR

the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller
diameter from the larger diameter.
(5) Rotate measuring device 90É and repeat steps
above.
(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each measurement.
(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can
be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round
condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper
always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine
has been in use for a period of time.
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CONNECTING ROD
BEARING FITTING
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Fig. 50). Check the bearings for
normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue and
pitting (Fig. 51). Replace any bearing that shows
abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of
scoring, nicks and burrs.Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause
abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder
walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft con-
necting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to
any of these components indicate the probability of a
misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod
alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con-
necting rods.
(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
(2) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and install
in connecting rod.
(3) Use piston ring compressor and Guide Pins
Special Tool 8507 (Fig. 52) to install the rod and pis-
ton assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must
face front of the engine. The ªFº's near the piston
wrist pin bore should point to the front of the engine.
(4) Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing
cap. The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plas-
tigage across full width of the lower insert at the cen-
ter of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in
use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
(5) Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the
journal and tighten bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a
90É turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
Fig. 49 BORE GAUGE-TYPICAL
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
Fig. 50 Locking Tab Inspection
1 - ABNORMAL CONTACT AREA CAUSED BY LOCKING TABS
NOT FULLY SEATED OR BEING BENT
Fig. 51 Scoring Caused by Insufficient Lubrication
or Damaged Crankshaft Journal
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 129
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

CORE PLUGS
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Using a blunt tool such as a drift or a screw
driver and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the
cup plug (Fig. 55)
(3) Using a suitable pair of pliers, grasp the core
plug and remove.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Thoroughly clean core plug bore, remove all
of the old sealer.
(1) Coat the edges of the engine core plug and the
core plug bore with Mopar Gasket Maker, or equiva-
lent.
NOTE: It is not necessary to wait for the sealant to
cure on the core plugs. The cooling system can be
filled and the vehicle returned to service immedi-
ately.
(2) Using proper plug driver, drive core plug into
the core plug bore. The sharp edge of the core plug
should be at least 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead
in chamfer.
(3) Refill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft is constructed of nodular cast iron.
The crankshaft is a crosshaped four throw design
with eight counterweights for balancing purposes.
The crankshaft is supported by five select fit main
bearings with the number three serving as the thrust
washer location. The main journals of the crankshaft
are cross drilled to improve rod bearing lubrication.
The number eight counterweight has provisions for
crankshaft position sensor target wheel mounting.
The select fit main bearing markings are located on
the rear side of the target wheel. The crankshaft oil
seals are one piece design. The front oil seal is
retained in the timing chain cover, and the rear seal
is pressed in to a bore formed by the cylinder block
and the bedplate assembly.
REMOVAL
NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine,
the engine must be removed from the vehicle.
(1) Remove the engine. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the engine oil pump.(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when
removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted
to the cylinder block in three locations and will
remain attached to block when removing oil pan.
Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
(3) Remove oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the oil pump pickup tube and oil pan
gasket /windage tray.
(5) Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the
location of the three stud bolts for installation.
(6) Remove the connecting rods from the crank-
shaft.
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on
or damage this surface in anyway.
NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bear-
ing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as not
to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing main
bearing halves in the wrong position will cause
sever damage to the crankshaft.
Fig. 55 Engine Core Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 131

CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mateing
surface must be coated with sealant prior to instal-
lation. Failure to do so will cause severe oil leaks.
NOTE: The installation time to install the bedplate
after the sealant has been applied is critical.
NOTE: Make sure that the bedplate and cylinder
block sealing surfaces are clean and free of oil or
other contaminants. Contaminants on the sealing
surfaces may cause main bearing distortion and/or
oil leaks.
(5) Apply a 2.5mm (0.100 inch) (Fig. 58) bead of
MopartGen II Silicone Rubber Adhesive sealant to
the cylinder block-to-bedplate mating surface as
shown (Fig. 59).(6) Coat the crankshaft main bearing journals
with clean engine oil and position the bedplate onto
the cylinder block.
NOTE: Lubricate the bedplate retaining bolts with
clean engine oil prior to installation.
(7) Install the bedplate retaining bolts, making
sure to place the stud bolts in the correct location,
Torque the bolts in the sequence shown (Fig. 60).
²Tighten boltsA± Lto 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
²Tighten bolts1±10to 2.8 N´m (25 in. lbs.)
²Turn bolts1±10an additional 90É.
²Tighten boltsA1± A6to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.)
(8) Measure crankshaft end play. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Install the connecting rods and measure side
clearance. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
Fig. 58 Cutting Aplicator to Achieve 2.5mm (0.100
in.) Bead
1 - CUT HERE
Fig. 59 Cylinder Block-to-Bedplate Sealent Bead
Location
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - SEALANT BEAD LOCATION
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 133
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
(3) Using Special Tool 8506 (Fig. 67), remove the
crankshaft rear oil seal.
Fig. 67 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Removal
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8506
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 137