check engine light DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Repair Manual

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
(3) Using Special Tool 8506, remove the crankshaft
rear oil seal.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The rear seal must be installed dry for
proper operation. Do not lubricate the seal lip or
outer edge.
(1) Position the plastic seal guide onto the crank-
shaft rear face. Then position the crankshaft rear oil
seal onto the guide.
(2) Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil
Seal Installer and C-4171 Driver Handle, with a
hammer, tap the seal into place. Continue to tap on
the driver handle until the seal installer seats
against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
(3) Install the flexplate.
(4) Install the transmission.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the transmission.
(3) Remove the drive plate / flywheel.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting
bolts.
(6) Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 209

INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Position the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position the retainer onto the engine block.
(5) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 15 N´m (132 in. lbs.) using a crisscross pat-
tern, starting with the bolt on the lower right.
(6) Install a new rear seal(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
- INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate or flywheel onto the
crankshaft and install the bolts hand tight.
(2)For automatic transmissions:Tighten the
flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3)For manual transmissions:Tighten the fly-
wheel retaining bolts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the transmission.
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-70 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When
air is fed to the tappets, they lose length, which allows
valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil
pump through which air can be drawn will create the
same tappet action. Check the lubrication system from
the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the
relief valve retainer cap. When tappet noise is due to
aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usu-
ally more than one tappet will be noisy. When oil level
and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at
fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient time to allow all of
the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3)
Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive
leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger
partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tap-
pet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tap-
pet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles
wedged between the plunger and the tappet body. This
will cause the plunger to stick in the down position.
This heavy click will be accompanied by excessive clear-
ance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve
closes. In either case, tappet assembly should be
removed for inspection and cleaning.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
9 - 210 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)

(8) Torque the (3) bolts that attach the front axle
to the left engine bracket to 101 N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the engine oil filter, if removed.
(10) Install the front crossmember(Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT CROSS-
MEMBER - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install the skid plate.
(12) Lower the vehicle.
(13) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
(3) Remove the nuts from the transmission mount
(Fig. 26).
(4) Remove the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the engine bracket.
(5) Raise the transmission enough to remove the
mount from the crossmember.
(6) Remove the mount.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Threadlocking compound must be applied to
the bolts before installation.(1) Install the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the transmission bracket.
(2) Torque the bolts to 61N´m (45 ft.lbs.) torque.
(3) Lower the transmission so the transmission
mount rests on the crossmember, and the studs of
the transmission mount are aligned in the slots in
the crossmember.
(4) Install the nuts onto the transmission mount
studs through the crossmember access slot.
(5) Torque the nuts to 54N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
The lubrication system (Fig. 27) is a full flow fil-
tration pressure feed type.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit and install
gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb Idle±25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpm±170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Fig. 26 TRANSMISSION MOUNT
1 - MOUNT
2 - CROSSMEMBER
3 - NUT
4 - BOLT
9 - 220 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
SERVICE
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY.
ENGINE OIL SPECIFICATION
CAUTION: Do not use non-detergent or straight
mineral oil when adding or changing crankcase
lubricant. Engine failure can result.
API SERVICE GRADE CERTIFIED
Use an engine oil that is API Service Grade Certi-
fied. MOPARtprovides engine oils that conform to
this service grade.
SAE VISCOSITY
An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the vis-
cosity of engine oil. Use only engine oils with multi-
ple viscosities such as 5W-30 in the 5.7L engines.
These are specified with a dual SAE viscosity grade
which indicates the cold-to-hot temperature viscosity
range. Select an engine oil that is best suited to your
particular temperature range and variation.
ENERGY CONSERVING OIL
An Energy Conserving type oil is recommended for
gasoline engines. The designation of ENERGY CON-
SERVING is located on the label of an engine oil con-
tainer.
CONTAINER IDENTIFICATION
Standard engine oil identification notations have
been adopted to aid in the proper selection of engine
oil. The identifying notations are located on the label
of engine oil plastic bottles and the top of engine oil
cans (Fig. 28).
OIL LEVEL INDICATOR (DIPSTICK)
The engine oil level indicator is located at the left
hand of the engine on the 5.7L engines.
CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800
kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhib-
ited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about ten
Fig. 28 API SYMBOL
9 - 222 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)

minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil
level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately five
minutes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase,
remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in Maintenance Schedules(Refer to LUBRI-
CATION & MAINTENANCE/MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION).
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if
damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase. Torque to 34
N´m ( 25 ft. lbs.).
(7) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil described in this sec-
tion.
(8) Install oil fill cap.
(9) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(10) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used
engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle
engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this
section.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-
flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Cor-
poration recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove
it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
(4) When filter separates from cylinder block oil
filter boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil
spill. Remove filter from vehicle.
NOTE: Make sure filter gasket was removed with fil-
ter.
(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 29) hand
tighten filter one half turn, or 180É,do not over
tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
Fig. 29 Oil Filter Sealing Surface - Typical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 223
OIL (Continued)

INSPECTIONÐPUSHRODS
Inspect the push rod ball and socket for signs of
scoring. Check for cracks where the ball and the
socket are pressed into the tube (Fig. 16).
Roll the push rod on a flat work surface with the
socket end hanging off the edge (Fig. 17). Replace
any push rod that appears to be bent.
INSTALLATION
WARNING: THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE HEAD
GASKET IS VERY SHARP. WHEN HANDLING THE
NEW HEAD GASKET, USE CARE NOT TO INJURE
YOURSELF.
(1) Install a new gasket with the part number side
up, and locate the gasket over the dowel sleeves.
(2) Using an engine lifting crane, lower the cylin-
der head onto the engine.
(3) Lightly lubricate head bolts with engine oil and
install. Using the sequence shown in (Fig. 18),
tighten bolts in the following steps:
(a) Torque bolts to 70 N´m (52 ft. lbs.)(b) Back off 360 degrees in sequence
(c) Torque bolts to 105 N´m (77 ft. lbs.)
(d) Re-check all bolts to 105 N´m (77 ft. lbs.)
(e) Tighten all bolts an additional
1¤4turn (90É)
(4) Install push rods into their original locations
(Fig. 19).Verify that they are seated in the tap-
pets.
(5) Lubricate valve stem tips and install the cross-
heads in their original locations.
(6) Lubricate the rocker arms and pedestals and
install them in their original locations (Fig. 20).
Install the bolts and torque them to 36 N´m (27 ft.
lbs.).
(7) Verify that the valve lash settings are main-
tained (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/IN-
TAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(8) Inspect rocker housing gasket for cuts and
proper installation into groove. Replace if damaged.
Fig. 16 Inspecting Push Rod for Cracks
Fig. 17 Inspecting Push Rod for Flatness
Fig. 18 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Sequence
Fig. 19 Push Rod Installation
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 253
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

(6) Use a drill, a fine grit Flex-hone and a mixture
of equal parts of mineral spirits and SAE 30W engine
oil to de-glaze the bores.
(7) The crosshatch angle is a function of drill
speed and how fast the hone is moved vertically (Fig.
47).
(8) Vertical strokes MUST be smooth continuous
passes along the full length of the bore (Fig. 47).
(9) Inspect the bore after 10 strokes.
(10) Use a strong solution of hot water and laun-
dry detergent to clean the bores. Clean the cylinder
bores immediately after de-glazing.
(11) Rinse the bores until the detergent is removed
and blow the block dry with compressed air.
(12) Check the bore cleanliness by wiping with a
white, lint free, lightly oiled cloth. If grit residue is
still present, repeat the cleaning process until all res-
idue is removed. Wash the bores and the complete
block assembly with solvent and dry with compressed
air. Place a clean shop towel around the top main
bearing saddle to deflect water and residue from pis-
ton cooling nozzels. Remove directed piston cooling
nozzles if installed.
(13) Be sure to remove the tape covering the lube
holes, rod journals, and piston cooling nozzles after
the cleaning process is complete.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
REPAIR
Cylinder bore(s) can be repaired by one of two
methods:
²Method 1:ÐOver boring and using oversize pis-
tons and rings.
²Method 2:ÐBoring and installing a repair sleeve
to return the bore to standard dimensions.
METHOD 1ÐOVERSIZE BORE
Cylinder bore(s) can be repaired by one of two
methods:Oversize pistons and rings are available in two
sizes - 0.50 mm (0.0197 inch) and 1.00 mm (0.0393
inch).
Any combination of standard, 0.50 mm (0.0197
inch) or 1.00 mm (0.0393 inch) overbore may be used
in the same engine.
If more than 1.00 mm (0.0393 inch) overbore is
needed, a repair sleeve can be installed (refer to
Method 2ÐRepair Sleeve).
Cylinder block bores may be bored twice before use
of a repair sleeve is required. The first bore is 0.50
mm (0.0197 inch) oversize. The second bore is 1.00
mm (0.0393 inch) oversize.
After boring to size, use a honing stone to chamfer
the edge of the bore.
CYLINDER BORE DIMENSION CHART
DESCRIPTION MEASUREMENT
BORING DIAMETER
DIMENSION1st. REBORE - 102.469
mm (4.0342 in.)
2nd. REBORE - 102.969
mm (4.0539 in.)
HONING DIAMETER
DIMENSIONSSTANDARD - 102.020  
0.020 mm (4.0165  
0.0008 in.)
1st. REBORE - 102.520
  0.020 mm (4.0362  
0.0008 in.)
2nd. REBORE - 103.020
  0.020 mm 4.0559  
0.0008 in.)
CHAMFER
DIMENSIONSApprox. 1.25 mm (0.049
in.) by 30É
A correctly honed surface will have a crosshatch
appearance with the lines at 15É to 25É angles with
the top of the cylinder block (Fig. 48). For the rough
hone, use 80 grit honing stones. To finish hone, use
280 grit honing stones.
A maximum of 1.2 micrometer (48 microinch) sur-
face finish must be obtained.
Fig. 47 De-Glazing Drill Speed and Vertical Speed
Fig. 48 Crosshatch Pattern of Repaired Sleeve(s)
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 265
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

After finish honing is complete, immediately clean
the cylinder bores with a strong solution of laundry
detergent and hot water.
After rinsing, blow the block dry.
Check the bore cleanliness by wiping with a white,
lint-free, lightly- oiled cloth. There should be no grit
residue present.
If the block is not to be used right away, coat it
with a rust- preventing compound.
METHOD 2ÐREPAIR SLEEVE
If more than a 1.00 mm (0.03937 inch) diameter
oversize bore is required, the block must be bored
and a repair sleeve installed.
Bore the block cylinder bore to 104.500-104.515
mm (4.1142-4.1148 inch) - (Fig. 49).
Repair sleeves can be replaced by using a boring
bar to bore out the old sleeve. DO NOT cut the cyl-
inder bore beyond the oversize limit.
REPAIR SLEEVE BLOCK REBORE
DIMENSIONS CHART
BORE DIAMETER STEP DIMENSION
104.500 + 0.015 mm
(4.1142 + 0.0006 in.)6.35 mm (0.25 in.)
After machining the block for the new repair
sleeve, thoroughly clean the bore of all metal chips,
debris and oil residue before installing the sleeve.
Cool the repair sleeve(s) to a temperature of -12ÉC
(10ÉF) or below for a minimum of one hour. Be ready
to install the sleeve immediately after removing it
from the freezer.
Apply a coat of Loctite 620, or equivalent to the
bore that is to be sleeved.Wear protective gloves to push the cold sleeve into
the bore as far as possible.
Using a sleeve driver, drive the sleeve downward
until it contacts the step at the bottom of the bore
(Fig. 50).
A sleeve driver can be constructed as follows (Fig.
51).SLEEVE DRIVER CONSTRUCTION
SPECIFICATION CHART
ITEM MEASUREMENT
A 127 mm (5 in.)
B 38 mm (1.5 in.)
C 6.35 mm (0.25 in.)
D 25.4 mm (1 in.)
E 101 mm (3.976 in.)
F 107.343 mm (4.226 in.)
Set up a boring bar and machine the sleeve to
101.956 mm (4.014 inch).
Fig. 49 Block Bore for Repair Sleeve Dimensions
1 - BORE DIAMETER
2 - STEP DIMENSION
Fig. 50 Sleeve Installation
1 - SLEEVE DRIVER
2 - SLEEVE
3 - CONTACT
Fig. 51 Sleeve Driver Construction
1 - DRIVE
2 - HANDLE
9 - 266 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

(7) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten the bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
(9) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect battery negative cables.
(12) Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
(13) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil. Re-install plug and torque to 50 N´m (44
ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
(5)
Remove flywheel or torque converter drive plate.
(6) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(8) Remove four (4) oil pan rear bolts. Slide a
feeler gauge between the seal retainer and oil pan
gasket to break the seal.(9) Remove the six (6) retainer-to-block bolts (Fig.
73).
(10) Remove the rear seal retainer and gasket
(Fig. 73).
(11) Support the seal retainer and drive out the
crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.
INSTALLATION
(1) If using the old seal retainer, the crankshaft
seal must be replaced.
(2) Inspect oil pan gasket for nickes or cuts. If gas-
ket is damaged, the oil pan must be removed and
gasket must be replaced. Wipe oil pan gasket dry and
apply light coating of RTV.
(3) Using the retainer alignment/seal installation
tool provided in the seal service kit, install the align-
ment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder
block (Fig. 74), using a new gasket. Tighten the six
(6) mounting bolts by hand.
(4) The seal alignment tool is used to align rear
cover properly. Starting with the center two bolts,
tighten the retainer in a circular pattern to 10 N´m
(89 in. lbs.). Remove the alignment tool.
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
Fig. 72 Seal Installation Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 73 Crankshaft Rear Seal Retainer and Gasket
1 - RETAINER
2 - GASKET
3 - BOLT
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 277
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

OIL COOLER & LINES
CLEANING
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the sealing surfaces.
Apply 483 kPa (70 psi) air pressure to the element
to check for leaks. If the element leaks, replace the
element.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
(1) Clean the area around the oil filter head.
Remove the filter from below using a cap-style filter
wrench.
(2) Clean the gasket surface of the filter head. The
filter canister O-Ring seal can stick on the filter
head. Make sure it is removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the oil filter element with clean oil before
installation. Use the same type oil that will be used
in the engine.
(2) Apply a light film of lubricating oil to the seal-
ing surface before installing the filter.
CAUTION: Mechanical over-tightening may distort
the threads or damage the filter element seal.
(3) Install the filter until it contacts the sealing
surface of the oil filter adapter. Tighten filter an
additional
1¤2turn.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Install engine support fixture # 8534.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(5) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(6) Remove flywheel or flexplate.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(8) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).(9) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing surface
is not damaged and tighten to 50 N´m (37 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(10) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(11) Remove oil pan and suction tube.
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and
cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be
required around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and
flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces
for cracks and damage. Replace any defective compo-
nent. Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole
threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for
straightness. Repair any minor imperfections with a
ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil
pan by welding.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear hous-
ing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use
MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equiva-
lent.
(2) Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them
into place. Using a new tube to block gasket, install
and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting
with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the bolts to 24
N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube
brace bolts to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Starting in the center and working outward,
tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the flywheel housing assembly with the
starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 N´m
(57 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect starter motor cables.
(6) Install the flywheel or flexplate. Torque to 137
N´m (101 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
(10) Install battery negative cables.
(11) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(12) Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine,
check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 293